The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= charcoal gray | |
= off-white |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 116-11 |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with Norwegian pattern in ”Karisma”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 116-11 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = bind off 6th st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row. Make buttonholes when piece measures: Size S: 7, 14, 21, 28, 35, 42 and 49 cm / 2¾", 5½", 8¼", 11", 13¾", 16½" and 19¼". Size M: 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 51 cm / 3½", 6¼", 9", 11¾", 14½", 17¼" and 20". Size L: 5, 13, 21, 29, 37, 45 and 53 cm / 2", 5⅛", 8¼", 11⅜", 14½", 17¾" and 21". Size XL: 7, 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm / 2¾", 6", 9", 12¼", 15¼", 18½" and 21⅝". Size XXL: 9, 17, 25, 33, 41, 49 and 57 cm /3½", 6¾", 9¾", 13", 16⅛", 19¼" and 22½". Size XXXL: 5, 14, 23, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm / 2", 5½", 9", 12½", 16⅛", 19¾" and 23¼". PATTERN: See diagram M.1 and M.2. Diagram shows the pattern from RS. -------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 250-278-310-338-370-398 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with charcoal gray. Continue as follows from RS: 10 GARTER STS - see above, rib K2/P2 until 12 sts remain, finish with K2 and 10 garter sts. Continue in rib with 10 garter sts each side towards mid front (= front bands, worked in garter st throughout). When rib measures 4 cm / 1½" work 1 row stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 49-53-61-65-73-77 sts evenly (do not dec on front bands) = 201-225-249-273-297-321 sts. Change to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in stockinette st with 10 garter sts each side. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 5 cm / 2" continue in PATTERN – see above – on next row from RS as follows: 10 garter sts, M.1 (= 6 sts) across the row until 11 sts remain, finish with first st of M.1 and 10 garter sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 7-9-5-7-9-5 cm / 2¾"-3½"-2"-2¾"-3½"-2" make BUTTONHOLE on right front band – see above. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 continue in charcoal gray. Insert 2 markers in piece, 55-61-67-73-79-85 sts in from each side (back piece = 91-103-115-127-139-151 sts). When piece measures 10 cm / 4" dec 1 st each side of both markers, and repeat the dec on every 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm / 3⅛"-3½"-3½"-4"-4"-4⅜" a total of 3 times = 189-213-237-261-285-309 sts. When piece measures 28-29-30-31-31-32 cm / 11"-11⅜"-11¾"-12¼"-12¼"-12½" work pattern on next row from RS as follows: 10 garter sts, M.2A (= 24 sts) a total of 7-8-9-10-11-12 times across the row, and finish with first st in M.2A and 10 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this. When piece measures 37-38-39-40-40-41 cm / 14½"-15"-15¼"-15¾"-15¾"-16⅛" bind off 6 sts each side for armhole (= 3 sts each side of marker). Now complete each piece separately. BACK PIECE: = 79-91-103-115-127-139 sts. Continue in M.2A as before, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-2-4-6-8-10 times and 1 st 0-1-2-3-4-5 times = 79-81-83-85-87-89 sts. When piece measures 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" bind off the middle 31-33-33-35-35-37 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. After 1 vertical repeat of M.2A complete piece in M.2D. Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26". LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 49-55-61-67-73-79 sts. Continue in pattern as before, AT THE SAME TIME bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece = 49-50-51-52-53-54 sts. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" slip 18-19-19-20-20-21 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder. Bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 4 times = 23-23-24-24-25-25 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26". RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Like left front piece, but mirrored. Remember BUTTONHOLES – see above! SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 60-60-68-68-68-68 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm / US 4 with charcoal gray. Work 1 round stockinette st and continue in rib K2/P2. When rib measures 4 cm / 1½" work 1 round stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-12-14-14-14-14 sts evenly= 48-48-54-54-54-54 sts. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in stockinette st. When piece measures 5 cm / 2" continue in pattern on next round as follows: M.1 a total of 8-8-9-9-9-9 times across the round. After 1 vertical repeat of M.1 continue in stockinette st in charcoal gray. When piece measures 6-6-8-8-6-8 cm / 2⅜"-2⅜"-3⅛"-3⅛"-2⅜"-3⅛" inc 1 st each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 3-3-2-2-1.5-1 cm / 1⅛"-1⅛"-¾"-¾"-½"-⅜" a total of 12-12-15-15-21-21 times = 72-72-84-84-96-96 sts. When piece measures 41-40-39-38-37-34 cm / 16⅛"-15¾"-15¼"-15"-14½"-13⅜" continue in pattern on next round as follows: Size S/M: M.2A a total of 3-3 times. Size L/XL: M.2B (= 5 sts), M.2A 3 times, M.2C (= 7 sts). Size XXL/XXXL: M.2A a total of 4-4 times. When piece measures 50-49-48-47-46-43 cm / 19¾"-19¼"-19"-18½"-18"-17" (less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder) bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts each side of marker - adjust to body piece, i.e. the same row in pattern diagram) and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. After 1 vertical pattern repeat complete piece in M.2D for all sizes. AT THE SAME TIME bind off for sleeve cap each side at beg of every row: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-5-3 times, 1 st 1-2-4-6-6-14 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm / 22"-22½"-22½"-22¾"-22¾"-22¾", now bind off 3 sts 1 time each side, and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-58-59-59-59 cm / 22½"-22¾"-22¾"-23¼"-23¼"-23¼". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons. NECKLINE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Pick up 102-106-106-110-110-114 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) round neckline on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with charcoal gray. K 1 row from WS and continue as follows from RS: 10 garter sts, rib K2/P2 until 12 sts remain, finish with K2, 10 garter sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc 24 sts evenly on row (do not inc on front bands) = 126-130-130-134-134-138 sts. Continue in rib until neck measures 3 cm / 1⅛". Bind off with K over K and P over P. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (26)
Birgitte Kræhmer wrote:
Findes denne opskrift også til herrer
30.12.2023 - 11:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej Birgitte, her ser du alle vores herreopskrifter med nordisk mønster: Herre - Nordisk mønster Du kan følge opskriften i den rigtige brystvidde og så følge målene fra en herreopskrift i samme kvalitet og strikkefasthed :)
03.01.2024 - 08:11Catherine wrote:
In size XL the stitching for the back armhole does not compute. If I cast off 2 stitches at the BEGINNING of each row 6 times, I have only reduced by 12 stitches, plus 3 more when I cast of 1 stitch at the BEGINNING of each row. I end up with 100 stitches on the needle, although the directions say I should have 85. Its only possible to get 85 stitches by casting off staches at BOTH ENDS OF EACH ROW. Can you confirm that this is correct?
16.04.2023 - 15:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Catherine, you cast off at the beginning of each row on each side 6 times, so in total you cast off 12 times (6 at the beginning of right side rows and 6 at the beginning of wrong side rows). So you cast off 24 stitches. The same with the next instructions: 1 stitch 3 times from the right side and 3 times from the wrong side, so 6 times. Therefore, you should have cast off 30 stitches; 115-30 = 85. Happy knitting!
16.04.2023 - 19:27Ingeborg wrote:
Goedendag, ik ga voor het eerst rondbreien. Als ik de panden verder apart moet breien, is dit dan met rechte pennen?
15.07.2021 - 12:58DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ingeborg,
Het vest wordt heen en weer gebreid met een rondbreinaald, van middenvoor naar midden voor. Als je alle steken op rechte naalden zet wordt het erg proppen, zeker in de grotere maten, vandaar er een rondbreinaald geadviseerd wordt.
20.07.2021 - 15:50Rosema wrote:
Moet dit patroon ook op de averechts kant gebreid worden? Of is het op de rechte pen patroon breien en dan averechts pen overbreien.?
08.10.2019 - 18:13Marjorie Kemp wrote:
Continued The overall sleeve length was as specified but the sleeve cap was way too short and would never have matched the opening in the sweater body.
26.03.2017 - 23:06DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Kemp, after you cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve continue M.2A (and B, C see size), then work M.2D while casting off for sts on each side for sleeve cap. Happy knitting!
27.03.2017 - 09:58Marjorie Kemp wrote:
Continued After decreasing the 6 stitches I started on the next row doing 2 decreases on each side for the specified number of times and then 1 decrease each side for the number of rows indicated. Then on the next rows I deceased 2 stitches each side until the specified overall length was accomplished. I finished as the pattern said.
26.03.2017 - 23:05Marjorie Kemp wrote:
I tried that, as the directions seemed to specify, but as I said in my first post, following these steps netted a very short sleeve cap. Any further elucidation?
26.03.2017 - 23:04Marjorie Kemp Kemp wrote:
Having trouble with the directions on the sleeve cap. I decreased the 6 stitches then started the decreased but the cap ended up being too short. Then I tried doing the 6 stitches decrease and following with completing the chart pattern before doing the (10 rows plus) decreases. Then the cap was pretty long. And I'm not sure when to start the "then 2 stitches each side until piece measures (22-3/4"). Can you restate that part so it's more clear?
20.03.2017 - 04:25DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Kemp, after binding off the 6 sts mid under sleeve, continue back and forth (see pattern & diagram in written pattern) casting off at the beg of each row on each side: 2 sts 3-4-4-4-5-3 times, 1 st 1-2-4-6-6-14 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm, now cast off 3 sts 1 time each side, and cast off remaining sts. Sleeve should now measure approx. 57-59 cm (see size). Happy knitting!
20.03.2017 - 10:23Ruby Jones wrote:
On the decrease for the back piece for the armholes. The pattern clearly says at the BEGINING or each row 6 times! Which adds up to 12 stitches and then 1 st at the Beginning of a row 3 times. How do you get 24 sts decreased. how is this possible if we are only to decrease at the beginning of each row? Should I be decreasing 2 sts at each end and not just at the beginning of each row & pattern is wrong
08.10.2016 - 13:35DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Jones, in 4th size you have to cast off at the beg of every row on each side, ie at the beg of row both from RS and from WS: 2 sts 6 times (= 12 sts on each side) + 1 st 3 times (= 3 sts on each side). There were 115 sts - (12+3x2 sides) = 85 sts. Happy knitting!
10.10.2016 - 09:05åsa Westerberg wrote:
Hur förstår jag avmaskningen för ärmhålet på ärmen? På fram och bakstycket avmaskas det först 6 maskor och sedan ytterligare 30 maskor i ärmhålet På ärmen avmaskas först 6 maskor för ärmhålet och sedan stickar man utan avmaskningar rakt upp till avmaskningen för ärmkullen Betyder det att det inte är någon avmaskning motsvarande de 30 maskorna på fram och bakstyckena? Hälsningar Åsa Westerberg
09.02.2015 - 10:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Åsa, jo sist i ärm beskrivningen står det: Sedan avm för ärmkulle i början på v i varje sida så här: 2 m 3-4-4-4-5-3 ggr, 1 m 1-2-4-6-6-14 ggr, sedan avm 2 m i varje sida tills arb mäter 56-57-57-58-58-58 cm. Avm 3 m en gång i varje sida. Arb mäter nu ca 57-58-58-59-59-59 cm. Maska sedan av. Lycka till!
09.02.2015 - 11:14