The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= ch | |
= dc in st | |
= first row is explained in pattern | |
= skip 1 dc, * work 1 dtr in back loop of next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 2 dtr in same st the same way *, skip 3 dc, repeat from *-* 1 time, pull yarn through all 7 sts on hook |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Priscilla |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Crochet DROPS jumper with raglan and lace pattern in ”Air”. The piece is worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS Extra 0-1183 |
|||||||||||||
CROCHET INFO: At beg of every dc row, replace first dc with 1 ch, work row tog at the end by working 1 sl st in first ch. At beg of every dtr row, replace first dtr with 4 ch, work row tog at the end by working 1 sl st in 4th ch. At beg of every triple tr row, replace first triple tr with 5 ch, work row tog at the end by working 1 sl st in 5th ch. CROCHET TIP: If the crochet tension vertically is not high enough switch all dtr with triple tr. INCREASE TIP-2: Inc 1 dtr by working 2 dtr in same st. PATTERN-1: ROW 1 (= WS): Work 1 dc in front loop of every dtr. ROW 2 (= RS): Work 1 dtr in back loop of every dc. Repeat rows 1 to 2 until finished measurements. PATTERN-2: ROUND 1: Work 1 dtr in back loop of every dc. ROUND 2: Work 1 dc in back loop of every dtr. Repeat rounds 1 to 2 until finished measurements. INCREASE TIP-1: Inc 3 dtr before A.1 on BODY as follows: Work as before until 3 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in each of the next 3 dc. Inc 3 dtr after A.1 on BODY as follows: Work 2 dtr in each of the next 3 dc after A.1. Inc 3 dtr before A.1 on SLEEVE as follows: Work 4 dtr in 1 dc before A.1. Inc 3 dtr after A.1 on SLEEVE as follows: Work 4 dtr in 1st dc after A.1 Inc 2 dtr before A.1 as follows: Work as before until 2 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in each of the next 2 dc. Inc 2 dtr after A.1 as follows: Work 2 dtr in each of the next 2 dc after A.1. Inc 1 dtr before A.1 as follows: Work as before until 1 dc remain before A.1, work 2 dtr in dc. Inc 1 dtr after A.1 as follows: Work 2 dtr in first dc after A.1. DECREASE TIP: Work 1 dtr/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dtr/dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 dc/dtr dec. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. Work A.1 as follows: ROW 1: Work 3 ch, skip 1 dc, * work 1 dtr in back loop of next dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 2 dtr in same st the same way *, skip 3 dc, repeat from *-* 1 time, pull yarn through all 7 sts on hook, 3 ch, skip 1 dc. ROW 2: Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 ch, 1 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch. ---------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked top down, back and forth from mid back. YOKE: Work 76-76-80-80-84-84 ch on hook size 6 mm with Air and form 1 ring with 1 sl st in first ch. NOTE: Work every row tog at the end of row before turning piece. Work next row as follows: Work 1 dc in every ch - READ CROCHET INFO = 76-76-80-80-84-84 dc. Then work as follows from RS: Work all dtr in back loop of dc, and READ CROCHET TIP. Work 1 dtr in each of the first 11-11-12-12-13-13 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-3-3-5-7-9 dtr evenly - READ INCREASE TIP-2 – (= half back piece), A.1 over the next 7 dc, 1 dtr in each of the next 2 dc, A.1 over the next 7 dc (= right sleeve), 1 dtr in each of the next 22-22-24-24-26-26 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-6-6-10-14-18 dtr evenly (= front piece), A.1 over the next 7 dc (= left sleeve), 1 dtr in each of the next 2 dc, A.1 over the next 7 dc, (= right sleeve), 1 dtr in each of the next 11-11-12-12-13-13 dc AT THE SAME TIME inc 1-3-3-5-7-9 dtr evenly (= half back piece). Work PATTERN-1 over dtr and A.1 over A.1 as before. On first row in pattern-1 there are 80-88-92-100-112-120 dc (incl A.1). Repeat pattern-1 and A.1 vertically until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! On next row (= dtr row) inc for raglan on every row from RS (i.e. every row with dtr) on each side of A.1 – READ INCREASE TIP-1 – as follows: Inc 3 dtr on each side of A.1 1 time in total, then inc 2 dtr on each side of A.1 3-4-4-5-5-5 times in total, then 1 dtr on each side of A.1 1-0-1-0-1-2 times in total (= 160-176-188-204-224-240 sts in total). On next row (= from WS with dc) work as follows: Work all dc in front loop of every dtr. Work 1 dc in each of the first 22-25-27-30-34-37 dtr, work 8 ch, insert 1 marker in 4th ch, skip: A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1 (= sleeve), work 1 dc in each of the next 44-50-54-60-68-74 dtr, work 8 ch, insert 1 marker in 4th ch, skip: A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1 (= sleeve), 1 dc in each of the next 22-25-27-30-34-37 dtr = 88-100-108-120-136-148 dc (incl A.1) and 16 ch. Move the markers upwards when working. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. BODY: Remember CROCHET INFO! Work next row (= from RS) as follows: Pattern-1 over all sts (i.e. 1 dtr in every ch under sleeve) = 104-116-124-136-152-164 dc on row. Work pattern-1 over body as before. When piece measures 6 cm, adjust so that next row is with dtr, inc 1 dtr on each side of each marker in the side (= 4 sts inc), repeat inc every 8 cm 3 more times. On next row with dc there are 120-132-140-152-168-180 dc on row. When piece measures 38-40-39-41-41-40 cm from marker, adjust so that last row is with dc, fasten off. SLEEVE: = A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr + A.1. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Sleeve is worked in the round, top down. Beg by working mid under sleeve as follows: Work 1 dc in the 5th ch of the 8 ch worked in armhole on body, work 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch, work last round of A.1 (= dc) over A.1, 1 dc in back loop of the next 22-24-26-28-30-32 dtr, last round of A.1 over A.1, before working 1 dc in each of the remaining 4 ch under sleeve = 44-46-48-50-52-54 dc. Insert 1 marker mid under sleeve, move the marker when working. Then work piece with PATTERN-2 - see explanation above. When sleeve measures 4 cm, dec 1 dc/tr on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 5-4-4-4-4-3 cm 7-8-8-9-9-10 more times = 28-28-30-30-32-32 dc/dtr. Work until piece measures 46-47-45-46-44-42 cm – adjust so that last round is with dc. Work 2 round with 1 dc in back loop of every dc (= 3 round in total with dc at the bottom of sleeve). Fasten off. Work the other sleeve the same way. NECK EDGE: Beg mid back and work as follows from RS: 1 dc in back loop of every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc evenly = 72-72-75-75-78-78 dc. Turn piece and work from WS. 1 dc in front loop of every dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-5-6-6 dc evenly = 68-68-70-70-72-72 dc. Fasten off. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (22)
DUVERT Anne-Lise wrote:
1 ----Dans la première partie empiècement , je fais la taille M A la fin du paragraphe . il est dit : au rang suivant crocheter sur l'envers en ms 27ms 8ml A1 26ms A1 54ms 8ml A1 26ms A1 27ms 16ml = 108 ms y compri A1 Pour moi 27+26+54+26+27= 160 ms et non 108 `2----- comment peux t on passer de 188ms à 108 ??? Je ne comprend pas , je suis perdue pouvez vous m'expliquer, ? merci Cordialement Anne-Lise
09.05.2022 - 09:46DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Duvert, vous en êtes à la séparation de l'empiècement pour le dos/le devant et les manches; pour les manches, vous devez sauter: A.1 + 26 brides + A.1, autrement dit, vous crochetez: 27 ms (1/2 dos) + 8 ml (sous la manche) + 54 ms (devant) + 8 ml (sous l'autre manche) + 27 ms (demi-dos) = 27+54+27= 108 mailles serrées + 2 fois 8 mailles en l'air, au 1er tour du DOS & DEVAN, vous crochèterez 1 ms dans chaque maille = 108+16=124 ms (en taille L = 3ème série de chiffres, en taille M = 2ème taille, vous avez un nombre de mailles différent). Bon crochet!
09.05.2022 - 12:48Giulia wrote:
Buongiorno, anche nella realizzazione delle maniche va sostituita la maglia di inizio giro con delle catenelle? Inoltre, man mano che procedo, il centro del sotto manica, contrassegnato dal segnapunti, si sposta via via.. alla fine i punti di inizio tra i giri si trovano su una diagonale e non su una linea retta, cosa sbaglio? Grazie
22.02.2020 - 13:55DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Giulia. Sì, anche sulle maniche la prima maglia viene sostituita da catenelle. L’inizio del giro rimane sempre nella stessa posizione, al centro, sotto manica. Buon lavoro!
23.02.2020 - 20:52Rosemary Lee wrote:
On the second row, the sleeve has 8 stitches in between the 2 A1s. The next row asks us to miss the A1s at the top of the sleeve and the 22 d.trebles in between. Where do these 22 come from please? I have been over and over the pattern and the video but have found no explanation.
15.01.2019 - 13:37DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Lee, on first round you start with 7 dtr between A.1 on sleeve, then you increase 3 dtr in each of the 2 dtr = there are 6 dtr on each sleeve between both A.1. This video shows how to increase the 3 dtr, then how to increase 2 dtr on each side of A.1. Happy crocheting!
15.01.2019 - 16:43Sheryl wrote:
Two questions. 1st- In Yoke where it says Inc 2 tr on each side of A.1 (5) times total. I am presuming that means on each of the next 5 rows? 2nd- after the chain 8 it says skip: A.1 + 22-24-26-28-30-32 tr + A.1 what is the 30? I have the 68 on the front and the two 34 half's for the back 68. If I hook the chain 8 to the other side of the A.1 it makes the hole for the arm way to small. This is for a XXL sweater. Thank you!
03.01.2019 - 20:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Sheryl, you increase on each side of A.1 every row from right side, this means every other row, not every row worked = 5 times require then 10 rows. On 2nd question, you crochet 8 chain (mid under sleeve) and skip the next stitches for sleeve, ie: the sts for A.1 + the next 30 sts + the sts for next A.1) then continue round with 1 sc in each of the next 68 tr (front piece). Happy crocheting!
04.01.2019 - 12:14Anna Larsen wrote:
Man kan IKKE bare hækle rundt i stedet for frem og tilbage på ærmerne. Eller rettere: det kan man godt, men så kommer ærmerne til at se anderledes ud end kroppen. Det har noget at gøre med, hvordan maskerne vender på fastmaske-omgangen. Hvis man er pernittengrynet - hvad jeg er - må man hækle frem og tilbage, evt med et par ekstra kantmasker og sy sammen bagefter.\r\nDet er i det hele taget en MEGET dårligt gennemarbejdet opskrift.......
25.03.2018 - 13:42Ida-Maria Skavhaug wrote:
Dere sier at dere har rettet paa moenesteret og avklart hvordan oekningen skal skje mellom hver A1, men jeg forstaar fremdeles ikke hva jeg skal goere... Skal det eller skal det ikke oekes i de to stavene mellom A1? Man faar jo det inntrykket av aa se paa bildet, men i saa fall lurer jeg paa hvordan det skal oekes tre staver over to staver :-)
12.05.2017 - 19:59DROPS Design answered:
Hei Ida-Maria. Har du tatt en en titt på videoen til denne oppskriften? Her viser vi hvordan vi hekler A.1 og raglan fellinger. Se: Hvordan hekle A.1 og raglan fellinger i DROPS Extra 0-1183 God Fornøyelse!
15.05.2017 - 08:51Talkina wrote:
Bonjour, je suis au 2e rang de A.1 et je ne comprends pas le raglan... Votre vidée était-elle basée sur les augmentations de la taille S ? Je crochète une taille M. Merci
09.03.2017 - 13:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Talkina, en taille M, vous devez augmenter pour le raglan tous les rangs sur l'endroit (= tous les 2 rangs): 1 x 3 DB de chaque côté de A.1 (= comme dans la vidéo), puis 4 x 2 DB de chaque côté de A.1 = 176 DB au total. Bon crochet!
09.03.2017 - 14:08Paula Warren wrote:
Hi. pattern 0-1183. On the yoke and on the second sentence that starts NOTE: ..... Am I turning piece or am I turning the piece so I am working from the wrong side. Also it states 'repeat pattern 1 and A1 - is this both row 1 and 2 of each pattern 1 and 1A and 'to finished measurements ' - which measurements does this mean. Please state for me. Many thanks in advance.
25.01.2017 - 19:18DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Warren, you are working in rows, ie alternately from RS and from WS but at the end of each row, join with a sl st in 1st st at beg of row. You are then working in pattern-1 with A.1 at each raglan line until end of piece = end of yoke. Happy crocheting!
26.01.2017 - 09:08Tine wrote:
Hej Drops, Jeg kan se at jeg er løbet ind i de samme problemer som andre hæklede; nemlig, at maskerne ikke kommer til, at passe med de angivet udtagninger. Hvis man gør som der står i opskiften når man aldrig op på det angivet maske antal efter 5. Udtagning. I skriver d. 27/6-16, at I afventer en afklaring på dette spørgsmål. Hvordan går det med det? På forhånd tak
04.08.2016 - 22:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Tine. Vi har rettet mönstret saa RAGLAN nu stemmer. Det samme gaelder for den tilhörende jakke (0-1182). Undskyld ventetiden :)
05.10.2016 - 10:50Anna Nygaard wrote:
Jeg kan ikke tager 3 dbl stangmasker ud i mellem A1 og A1 på hver side. Lige nu har jeg kun 2 dbl stangmasker mellem mønsteret Hilsen Anna
26.06.2016 - 00:54DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anne. Ja, det passer ikke her. Jeg ville löse det med at haekle 3 dstk i één m imellem - for at tage ud det du skal. Vi afventer stadig en rettelse paa denne, men det er hvad vi forventer det skal vaere.
27.06.2016 - 16:34