The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Heartthrob Pants |
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Crochet baby pants with tie-waist in DROPS Alpaca. Size 0 – 4 years.
DROPS Baby 25-24 |
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CROCHET TIP: Beg every round with dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Beg every round with tr with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. NOTE: These ch do NOT replace first dc/tr on round. STRIPE PATTERN: ROUND 1 (= from WS with off white): Work 1 tr in every dc. ROUND 2 (= from RS with off white): Work 1 dc in every tr. ROUND 3 (= from WS with off white): Work 1 tr in every dc. ROUND 4 (= from RS with off white): Work 1 dc in every tr. ROUND 5 (= from WS with light steel blue): Work 1 tr in every dc. ROUND 6 (= from RS with light steel blue): Work 1 dc in every tr. ROUND 7 (= from WS with light steel blue): Work 1 tr in every dc. ROUND 8 (= from RS with light steel blue): Work 1 dc in every tr. Repeat rounds 1 to 8. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull yarn through, insert hook in next st and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook. Dec 1 tr by working 2 tr tog as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last YO and pull through, work next tr but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook. ---------------------------------------------------------- PANTS: Worked in the round, top down, but turn piece after every round to work alternately from RS and WS. Work 140-147-154 (161-168) ch on hook size 3 mm with light steel blue and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid back. Work first round as follows: 1 ch, then * 1 dc in each of the first 6 ch, skip 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 120-126-132 (138-144) dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc for 2 more rounds. Then work 1 round with holes for tie as follows: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), * skip 1 dc, 1 tr in next dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. On next round work 1 dc in every ch and in every tr. Work 1 more round with 1 dc in every dc. Now work an elevation in the back as follows: Work 10 dc past marker mid back, turn and work 1 dc in each of the first 20 dc, turn, work 1 dc in each of the first 30 dc, continue like this by work 10 dc more on every turn until 80-80-100 (100-120) dc in total have been worked. Turn and work back to mid back again. Continue in the round over all sts with STRIPE PATTERN - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION! When piece measures 15-17-18 (19-20) cm mid front, insert 1 marker mid front as well, there should be 60-63-66 (69-72) sts between markers mid front and mid back. On next round inc 1 st on each side of marker front and back by working 2 dc/tr in same st. Repeat inc every round 3-3-4 (4-4) more times (= 4-4-5 (5-5) inc in total) = 136-142-152 (158-164) sts in total on round. Then finish legs separately. LEG: Work sl sts over the first 5 dc on round, then work dc over the next 58-61-66 (69-72) sts and finish with sl sts over the next 5 dc. Cut the yarn. Work now in the round and continue with stripe pattern over these 58-61-66 (69-72) sts. Insert 1 marker at beg of round = inside of leg. When leg measures 2-2-2 (3-3) cm, dec 1 dc on each side of marker – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-3 (3½-4½) cm 6-6-6 (5-5) more times (= 7-7-7 (6-6) dec in total) = 44-47-52 (57-60) dc. Continue to work until leg measures 16-20-22 (27-32) cm (finish after a stripe with off white). Then work 8 rounds dc with light steel blue. Fasten off. Work the other leg the same way. The 10 sts mid front and mid back = gusset. ASSEMBLY: Sew tog opening between legs edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. TIE: Work with off white on hook size 3 mm as follows: * 2 ch, 1 dc in first ch *, repeat from *-* until tie measures approx. 80-85-90 (95-100) cm, fasten off. Thread the tie in the round with eyelet holes at the top of pants – start and finish mid front. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (42)
Lisa Juditha Ispas wrote:
Hvorfor skal hæklestykket vendes efter hver omgang, det snor sig helt vildt?
16.11.2015 - 10:38DROPS Design answered:
Hej Lisa, du må gerne hækle rundt, men mønsteret bliver anderledes. God fornøjelse!
25.11.2015 - 15:41Kerstin wrote:
Hallo Ich bin gerade am Anfang fürs erste Beinchen und versteh das Ganze mit dem Zwickel nicht Ich versteh den Teil mit den Kett-M überhaupt nicht... übergeh ich die dann bei der nächsten runde und hab dann automatisch weniger Maschen oder mach ich das bis zum ende des beines immer insges. 10 Kett- M pro Bein und so entsteht mein Zwickel? Lg
28.05.2015 - 19:31DROPS Design answered:
Die Kett-M lassen Sie außer Acht beim Häkeln des Beins. Sie häkeln also nur über die 58-61-66 (69-72) M weiter, in die Sie die fM gehäkelt haben, und zwar in Runden. Es bleiben dann an der anderen Seite auch 5 M bis zur Mitte der Hose übrig, Bsp Gr. S: 136 M gesamt, die Hälfte davon sind 68 M, also 5 Kett-M, 58 M häkeln, 5 M unbehäkelt lassen. Das an der andere Seite ebenso, dann haben Sie vorne 10 M und hinten 10 M unbehäkelt. Die Kett-M werden dabei nur deshalb gehäkelt, um den Faden nicht abschneiden zu müssen, sie sind eigentlich als unbehäkelte M zu verstehen. Sie könnten den Faden also auch nach den ersten 5 M neu ansetzen und diese 5 M einfach auslassen.
31.05.2015 - 09:57Viard wrote:
Bjr ou puisje trouver les explications pour la rehausse dos de ce pantalon ?? Merci d'avance
14.04.2015 - 13:35DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Viard, pour la ré-hausse dos, procédez ainsi: crochetez 10 ms après le marqueur du milieu dos, tournez et crochetez 20 ms (soit 10 ms avant le marqueur et 10 ms après le marqueur), tournez et crochetez 30 ms, tournez et crochetez 40 ms, tournez et continuez ainsi en crochetant 10 ms en plus à chaque rang jusqu'à ce que vous ayez crocheté un total de 80-100-120 ms (cf taille). Bon crochet!
14.04.2015 - 16:05Sarah wrote:
Hallo, häkel mit der Anleitung meine erste Hose und hänge nun leider schon an der "Runde " wo die verkürzten Runden gehäkelt werden. Ich habe mir die anfangsmasche markiert gehabt. Nun verstehe ich leider nicht, wenn ich 10 fm häkel,wie dann 10 weiter häkeln soll ( da ja der Abstand immer größer zur vorderen Reihe wird). Vielleicht denke ich auch nur zu kompliziert. Aber ich hoffe man kann mir helfen,ich danke schonmal. Liebe grüße
19.02.2015 - 23:33DROPS Design answered:
Die verkürzten Reihen häkeln Sie hin und zurück. Sie häkeln 10 M über den Markierer hinaus, wenden und häkeln 20 M zurück, also 10 M über den Markierer in die andere Richtung. Dann wenden Sie wieder und häkeln 30 fM, d.h. 20 fM in die R, die Sie gerade gehäkelt haben und 10 fM in 10 fM der darunter liegenden R, in die Sie in der R davor nicht gehäkelt haben. Wenden und ebenso 40 fM häkeln usw.
23.02.2015 - 09:53Steffi wrote:
Bin bei der Anleitung für 1-3 Monate, hänge am Beinanfang. Habe 136M in Arbeit. 5km je Seite für Zwickel, 58M pro Bein in Arbeit. Wären 63M je Seite, also 126 gesamt. Fehlen 10M? Oder muss ich die 5km auch vor und nach jeder Markierung (also 10km je Bein) machen? Danke für eine kurze Hilfe
28.01.2015 - 23:59DROPS Design answered:
Genau, Sie haben vorne und hinten jeweils 10 M für den Zwickel, also insgesamt 20 M in der Mitte zwischen den Beinen, die nicht behäkelt werden.
29.01.2015 - 00:05Maria wrote:
Angående forhøjningen, når der står hækl 10 masker forbi mærket midt bagpå, hvor skal jeg så starte med at hækle? Midt bagpå eller fem masker fra midt bag på? Og hvis det er fem masker fra midt bagpå, hvordan kommerciel så derhen ?
17.11.2014 - 00:05DROPS Design answered:
Hej Maria. Starten af din omgang (hvor maerket sidder er midt bagpaa), saa her begynder du ogsaa med forhöjningen. Saa du haekler 10 fm fra maerket, vender og haekler tilbage over 20 fm (du er saa 10 fm paa den anden side af maerket, vend og haekl 30 fm (20 m paa den anden side af maerket) og saa videre.
19.11.2014 - 15:14Susanne wrote:
Hva menes det med å hekle kjm over de første 5 på omg. Altså hvordan starter jeg med bena?
06.11.2014 - 15:11DROPS Design answered:
Hej Susanne. Du skal hekle benene hver for sig. Du starter med at hekle 1 km i hver af de förste 5 m paa omgangen og saa hekler du fm over de naeste 58-61-66 (69-72) m og fortsaetter rundt over disse masker. Gentag i den anden side.
07.11.2014 - 12:46Hilde Brastad wrote:
Det var synd. Jeg forstår ikke helt hvordan den hekles utifra forklaringen.
31.10.2014 - 12:16Hilde Brastad wrote:
Finnes det bilde eller video av forhøyningen bak?
30.10.2014 - 15:36DROPS Design answered:
Hej Hilde. Nej, desvaerre ikke endnu, men det staar paa vores liste.
31.10.2014 - 08:56Maren wrote:
Eine Frage:In der Anleitung steht:In der nächsten Rd auf jeder Seite der vorderen und hinteren Markierung je 1 M aufnehmen.Diese Aufnahmen in jeder Runde noch 3x wdh(= insgesamt 4Aufnahmen)=136M in der Rd.4x2 Maschen aufnehmen sind dann doch aber nur 8 Maschen mehr,also 128.Muss ich 8x Maschen aufnehmen?Und wann genau fange ich mit den Beinen an?Wenn ich acht mal die Frabe gewechselt habe oder wenn ich eine bestimmte Länge gehäkelt habe?
01.09.2014 - 10:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Maren, Sie nehmen jeweils beidseitig jeder Markierung zu, also an jedem Markierer 2 M = 4 M pro Rd. Dann haben Sie also insgesamt 16 zugenommene M. Mit den Beinen fangen Sie direkt nach der letzten Zunahme-Rd an.
01.09.2014 - 12:13