Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= off white 0100 | |
= pink 2921 | |
= orange 2915 | |
= light pink 3140 | |
= medium pink 3720 | |
= old pink 3800 | |
= dark pink 3770 | |
= K 2 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Jolie Fleur |
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Knitted cardigan with round yoke and multi-coloured pattern in DROPS Alpaca. Size children 3 to 12 years.
DROPS Children 22-4 |
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GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. PATTERN: See diagram M.1 to M.4. All diagrams are worked in stocking st. NOTE: When working diagram M.2, pull up the pattern thread to next row when working dots. Do not cut the thread because the thread fastening might shine through. -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 164-176-192-208-220 sts (incl 1 edge st in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white. P 1 row from WS. Then work rib as follows (seen from RS): 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with K 2 and 1 edge st in garter st. When rib measures approx. 4 cm (adjust so that next row is worked from RS), switch to circular needle size 3 mm. K 1 row while AT THE SAME TIME dec 25-25-29-33-33 sts evenly = 139-151-163-175-187 sts. Work 3 rows in stocking st. Continue to work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, diagram M.1A until 6 sts remain, diagram M.1B and 1 edge st in garter st. When diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work 3 rows in stocking st with off white. Continue as follows (from RS): 1 edge st, diagram M.2A until 6 sts remain, diagram M.2B and 1 edge st. Continue working like this until piece measures approx. 20-23-25-27-29 cm (adjust so that 3 rows with one colour have been worked after 1 row with dots). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Work next row as follows with off white: Work 32-35-38-41-44 sts, cast off 6 sts for armhole, work 63-69-75-81-87 sts, cast off 6 sts for armhole, work the rest of row (= 32-35-38-41-44 sts). Put piece aside and work the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-56-60-60-64 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with off white. K 1 round. Continue in rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-10-12-10-12 sts evenly = 44-46-48-50-52 sts. K 2 rounds. Then work diagram M.3 one time vertically, then K 1 round with off white. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid under sleeve. Continue as follows: 4-5-0-1-2 sts in off white, diagram M.2A over 36-36-48-48-48 sts, 4-5-0-1-2 sts with off white. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-8-8-9 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat inc every 7th-9th-9th-9th-9th round a total of 8-8-10-11-12 times = 60-62-68-72-76 sts. Work the inc sts gradually in diagram M.2A. When piece measures approx. 27-32-36-39-43 cm (adjust so that 3 rounds with one colour have been worked after 1 round with pattern), work 1 round with off white while at the same time casting off 6 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 3 sts on each side of marker) = 54-56-62-66-70 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were cast off = 235-251-275-295-315 sts. P 1 row from WS with off white while AT THE SAME TIME dec 8-8-0-4-8 sts evenly = 227-243-275-291-307 sts. Work 0-0-2-6-10 more rows with off white back and forth. Continue to work as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, diagram M.4 until 2 sts remain, work the first st as the first st in diagram M.4 (so that the pattern is the same on each side of mid front), then 1 edge st in garter st. When diagram M.4 has been worked vertically, 87-93-105-111-117 sts remain on needle. K 1 row from RS with off white while AT THE SAME TIME casting off 1 edge st in each side and while at the same time dec 17-19-27-27-29 sts evenly = 68-72-76-82-86 sts, cut the thread. Slip the sts on a stitch holder. LEFT BAND: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Knit up on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white, approx. 90 to 120 sts inside 1 edge st along left front piece. K 1 row from WS while at the same time adjusting no of sts to 109-117-125-133-141. Then work rib as follows (from the top, seen from RS): 1 st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain which are worked K 2 and 2 sts in garter st. Continue like this until rib measures approx. 2.5 cm. Loosely cast off with K over K and P over P. RIGHT BAND: Work as left band – AT THE SAME TIME when band measures approx. 1.5 cm, cast off for 7-7-7-8-8 button holes evenly. 1 BUTTON HOLE = cast off 2 P sts and cast on 2 new sts on next row over these sts. Upper button hole should be in first P-section. Bottom hole should be approx. 2 cm from bottom edge. NECK EDGE: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Knit up on circular needle size 2.5 mm with off white (from RS) as follows: 6 sts at the top along band on right front piece (inside 1 st in garter st), then work the sts from body on the needle = 68-72-76-82-86 sts and knit up 6 sts at the top along band on left front piece = 80-84-90-94-98 sts. Then work an elevation at the back as follows in garter st: K 45-47-50-52-54 sts, turn, K 10 sts, turn, K 20 sts, turn, continue to work 10 sts more on every turn until a total of 50-50-70-70-70 sts have been worked (= 3-3-4-4-4 ridges (1 ridge = 2 rows), turn and work the rest of row. Work 1 row over all sts before casting off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew on buttons. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (27)
Diane Adam wrote:
I am working diagram M2A on the sleeve. How do you carry the pink wool so that it is in the right place for the next row of hearts?
13.01.2023 - 17:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Diane, you need to use the Fair Isle technique, you can see how to work this in the following videos, depending on the way you work: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=140&lang=en https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=136&lang=en Happy knitting!
15.01.2023 - 11:19Lena Jönsson wrote:
Drops 22-4 , vilken färg ska jag ersätta cerise 2921 med då den utgått tyvärr
30.04.2022 - 12:03DROPS Design answered:
Hei Lena. Vi har ingen lik farge som kan erstatte 2921 ceris, men ta en titt på farge 9022 korall eller hva med en litt annen rosa farge, mørk blush 9024? mvh DROPS Design
02.05.2022 - 13:59Fernanda Blockeel wrote:
Ik heb nu de mouwen op dezelfde rondbreinaald gezet .ik heb nu in totaal 62 steken voor de mouw (2x) en in totaal 275 steken.volgens telpatroon M4 moet ik 10 x minderen en in de beschrijving staat er nog 105 steken overhouden .Ik begrijp dit niet?
25.04.2022 - 12:59DROPS Design answered:
Dag Fernanda,
Je kunt gewoon telpatroon M.4 volgen. De minderingen die je moet maken zijn al getekend in het telpatroon (dit is het laatste symbool: 2 recht samen), waardoor je automatisch mindert als je het telpatroon volgt.
28.04.2022 - 09:41Loes Sweegers wrote:
Het telpatroon geeft aan te breien gezien van de goede kant van de naald. Houd dit dan in dat ik steeds 2 naalden brei of zie ik dat verkeerd?
27.12.2021 - 17:10DROPS Design answered:
Dag Loes,
In het telpatroon zijn alle naalden aangegeven. Je leest het telpatroon van onder naar boven en als je aan de goede kant bent lees je de rij van rechts naar links. Als je aan de verkeerde kant bent van links naar rechts.
28.12.2021 - 13:04Loes Sweegers wrote:
Het telpatroon geeft aan te breien gezien van de goede kant van de naald. Houd dit dan in dat ik steeds 2 naalden brei of zie ik dat verkeerd?
26.12.2021 - 14:27Lola wrote:
Bonjour, Au moment des diminutions de M4, faut-il continuer à faire correspondre les motifs sur les devants ? (ce qui ferait faire une diminution supplémentaire en fin de motif par exemple au rang 15) Ou bien faut-il tricoter la dernière maille dans la couleur du motif sans faire correspondre les deux côtés ? Merci d'avance !
21.01.2021 - 16:11DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Lola, lorsque vous tricotez M.4 vous devez toujours terminer le rang par la 1ère maille de M.4, en revanche, si la 1ère maille est une diminution, tricotez cette maille sans diminuer pour bien conserver le bon nombre de mailles. Vous ne devez diminuer que le nombre de mailles indiqué dans M.4 x le nombre de M.4 du rang. Bon tricot!
21.01.2021 - 16:56Anke wrote:
Hallo, wie verstehe ich die Abnahmen im Diagramm M4 richtig? Und wie gleiche ich die durch die Abnahme entstehenden eingerückten Reihen dann später bei der Blend wieder aus? Gruß Anke
27.01.2020 - 22:26DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anke, M.4 lesen Sie von unten nach oben. Wenn Sie das Symbol für die Abnahme sehen, dann stricken Sie 2 Maschen zusammen (entweder am Anfang oder am Ende M.4). Diese Abnahmen wiederholen Sie in jedem M.4 (= 1 Masche pro M.4 abgenommen = M.4 wird 15 Mal in der Reihe wiederholt), so daß Sie nach und nach weniger Maschen auf der Nadel haben (dh Sie nehmen 15 Maschen pro Abnahmenreihe ab). Die restlichen 83 Maschen sind dann für die Halskante (nach den Blenden von den Vorderteilen) gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
28.01.2020 - 10:41Anke wrote:
Hallo nochmal, ich habe im Diagramm jetzt gesehen, dass ich 2 Maschen zusammenstricken. Insgesamt sind das dann aber 20 Maschen und ich habe dann immer noch 223 Maschen statt 93. Wie muss ich die Abnahmen machen?
24.01.2020 - 18:53DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anke, siehe Antwort unten :)
27.01.2020 - 07:48Anke wrote:
Hallo, ich stricke die Jacke in Größe 5/6. Bei der Passe habe ich zu Beginn von M4 243 Maschen auf der Nadel. Warum sind es dann am Ende nur noch 93 Maschen? In der Anleitung finde ich keinen Hinweis zur Abnahme. Im Muster von M4 sind die Reihen teilweise eingerückt, ich weiß aber nicht was ihr damit meint und wie ich die Maschen dann anscheinend während des Musters M4 abnehmen muss. Könnt ihr mir das bitte genau erklären!? Gruß Anke
24.01.2020 - 18:49DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anke, bei der Passe stricken Sie Diagram M.4 (= 16 Maschen) über die 243 M, dh so: 1 Randmasche, wiederholen Sie jetzt 15 Mal die 16 Maschen vom Diagram, stricken Sie dann die erste Masche, 1 Randmaschen. Es werden in M.4 abegnommen (siehe letzte Symbol) insgesamt 10 Mal = 6 M bleiben in jedem M.4 x 15 + die erste Masche + 2 Randmaschen = 93 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.01.2020 - 07:48Janis wrote:
I would like to make this cardigan in a machine washable yarn. Can you recommend a substitute please? Thanks.
20.05.2018 - 11:32DROPS Design answered:
Dear Janis, you could use any superwash yarn group A>/a> - eg DROPS Fabel , Delight or Baby Merino. Read more here about alternative and use our yarn converter. Happy knitting!
22.05.2018 - 08:40