DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton |
1.55 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Trgovinca iNCA website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton 1.55 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Trgovinca iNCA website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= knit (as seen from the right side) | |
= purl (as seen from the right side) | |
= yo | |
= K 2 tog | |
= slip 1 as if to knit, K 1, psso. | |
= knit 3 sts as follows from right side without slipping off the left needle: P 3 tog, K 3 tog, P 3 tog, slip sts off left needle. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Blue Summer |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
DROPS Pullover in Safran with short or long sleeves
DROPS 77-19 |
|||||||||||||||||||
Tension: 23 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm on larger needles in stockinette st. Rib: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from * - *. Pattern: See chart. The pattern is seen from the right side. Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows. Knitting tips (for neckband): All decs are made from right side. Dec inside 5 edge sts knit as follows from edge (seen from the right side): K 1 (edge st knit in garter st), K 1, P 1, K 1, P 1. Dec 1 st as follows: After 5 edge sts: Slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso. Before 5 edge sts: K 2 tog. Body: Cast on 176-192-208-224-256 sts on smaller circular needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 5 rows rib. Change to larger circular needles and Pattern 1 - see that the seed st columns in the pattern are directly over the purl sts in the rib. Put a marker at each side (in the center st of a K 3 rib) – there will be 87-95-103-111-127 sts between markers. When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side of sts with markers every 5 cm a total of 4 times - knit the increased sts into the pattern as you go along = 192-208-224-240-272 sts. Read the entire next section before continuing: Pattern: When the piece measures 31-32-34-36-37 cm knit Pattern 2 over the center 47 sts on the front (knit the remaining sts as before). After Pattern 2 knit Pattern 1 over all sts again. Armhole: When the piece measures 33-34-35-36-37 cm cast off 7-9-9-11-11 sts at each side for armhole (that is, the st with the marker and 3-4-4-5-5 sts at each side st with marker). Knit each piece separately. Front: = 89-95-103-109-125 sts. Continue the pattern and cast off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 0-0-0-1-2 times, 2 sts 1-2-2-2-4 times and 1 st 2-3-3-3-4 times = 81-81-89-89-89 sts. When the piece measures 40-41-42-44-45 cm knit 5 rows rib over the center 29-29-37-37-37 sts - start with P 1 (knit the remaining sts in pattern as before). Then cast off the center 19-19-27-27-27 sts for the neck - cast off in pattern. Keep the 5 sts at each neck edge in rib, with the outermost st in garter st, to finished dimensions. Dec 1 st at each neck edge: every other row 4 times and then every 4 rows 4 times - see knitting tips = 23 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm. Back: = 89-95-103-109-125 sts. Cast off for armhole as on front = 81-81-89-89-89 sts. When the piece measures 49-51-53-55-57 cm knit 5 rows rib over the center 45-45-53-53-53 sts - start with P 1 (knit the remaining sts in pattern as before). Then cast off the center 35-35-43-43-43 sts for the neck - cast off in rib = 23 sts remain on shoulder. Knit the 5 sts at neck edge as on front and cast off when the piece measures 52-54-56-58-60 cm. Short sleeve: Cast on 60-64-68-72-80 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 5 rows rib. Change to larger double-pointed needles and knit Pattern 1 to finished measurements. When the piece measures 5 cm inc 1 st each side of marker a total of 8-8-10-10-8 times: Sizes S, M and XXL: alternately every 3rd and 4th row. Sizes L and XL: alternately every other and every 3rd row = 76-80-88-92-96 sts - knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along. When the piece measures 15 cm cast off 3 sts each side of marker. Then cast off for sleeve cap every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 3-3-2-5-7 times, then cast off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 22-23-23-25-26 cm, then cast off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 23-24-24-26-27 cm. Long sleeve: Cast on 48-52-52-56-56 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit 5 rows rib. Change to larger double-pointed needles and knit Pattern 1 to finished measurements. When the piece measures 10 cm inc 1 st each side of marker every 8-8-6-6-5 rows a total of 14-14-18-18-20 times = 76-80-88-92-96 sts - knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along. When the piece measures 48-47-47-46-46 cm cast off 3 sts each side of marker. Then cast off for sleeve cap every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3-3-4-4-4 times and 1 st 3-3-2-5-7 times, then cast off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 55-55-55-56-57 cm, then cast off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 56-56-56-57-58 cm. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. |
|||||||||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (62)
Susanne Holmgren wrote:
Hur maskar man av för ärmkullen
09.05.2024 - 10:52Rosemary Haynes wrote:
I do not understand the top two pattern lines of M2. Does the line of 3 V's mean I reduce 9 sts to 3? And what then happens on the next line with 2 V's? Help please.
05.05.2024 - 10:50DROPS Design answered:
Dear Rosemary, one V is knitted over 3 stitch, where you K3TOG, P3TOG and K3TOG the SAME 3 stitches for EACH V sign, only letting of teh stitches from the needle after the third time. In the next RS row, you only doing this twice (instead of three times). Happy Crafting!
05.05.2024 - 15:34Charlotte wrote:
Jeg kan simpelthen ikke få mit hoved omkring beskrivelsen i mønstret: "Når arb måler 12 cm tages der 1 m ud på hver side af m med mærketråden på hver 5. cm totalt 4 gange - de udtagede m strikkes ind i mønsteret løbende = 192-208-224-240-272 m."? Lige meget hvordan jeg tager masker ud, kan jeg ikke få maskerne til at følge mønstret, så det fortsætter med 3 ret, 1 vrang, 3 ret...??
27.04.2024 - 16:26DROPS Design answered:
Hei Charlotte. Når du øker masker i siden vil ikke mønstret stemme 100% med 3 rett-1 vrang-3 rett. Du må tilpasse de nye maskene inntil du har nok masker til at de passer inn i mønstret. Så noen ganger vil du ha 3 rett-1 vrang - 4 rett osv. (de nye maskene strikkes fortløpende inn i mønstret). mvh DROPS Design
29.04.2024 - 10:19Susanne Marie Salskov Kjærgaard wrote:
Denne model strikkes på rundpind, ikke? Hvordan fremkommer der så en vrangside? symbols = ret fra retsiden, vrang fra vrangen symbols = vrang fra retsiden, ret fra vrangen
22.03.2024 - 10:11DROPS Design answered:
Hej Susanne, når du kommer op til bærestykket, bliver du nødt til at strikke frem og tilbage på pinden :)
03.04.2024 - 12:18Christina wrote:
Wie ist bei den Zunahmen "die neuen M werden fortlaufend ins Muster eingestrickt" zu verstehen? Werden die zugenommenen Maschen immer nur rechts gestrickt (nach allen Zunahmen dann jeweils 5 re Maschen li und 5 M re von der markierten Masche) oder wird irgendwann das Muster aufgegriffen? Falls ja, wann und wie?
26.02.2024 - 08:33DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Christina, das Muster beim Vorder- sowie beim Rückenteil wird sich beidseitig erweitern, dh an beiden Seiten passt das Muster nicht mehr aber immer noch beim Vorder und Rückenteil. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
26.02.2024 - 10:06Jessica wrote:
Bonjour, Pour les augmentations des côtés, on continue en point fantaisie quand on a suffisamment de mailles. Après avoir augmenté 2 fois, on tricote la maille avec le marqueur en point mousse. Mais après avoir augmenté à nouveau 2 fois, on se retrouve avec 5 mailles endroit de chaque côté de la maille avec le marqueur. Est-ce qu'on garde ce point irrégulier sur les côtés jusqu'à la fin? Merci!
27.10.2023 - 15:45DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Jessica, la maille avec le marqueur doit continuer à être tricotée comme avant tout le temps, incorporez les augmentations dans le point fantaisie (sans le point ajouré). Le motif ne tombera pas juste sur les côtés, c'est normal.. Bon tricot!
28.10.2023 - 08:46Bente Illum Hansen wrote:
Jeg kan ikke forstå mønster M2 efter linje 8. Diagramforklaring til symbolet: strik de 3 m sammen fra retsiden …….. slutresultatet er: 9 m bliver til 3 Næste pind - altså pind 9 - her er der angivet, at de 9 m stadig er intakte. Venligst forklar, hvorledes den del af mønstret skal strikkes På forhånd tak for hjælpen. Hilsen fra Bente
08.05.2023 - 16:40DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bente, på pind 9 strikkes hvert symbol med 3 masker således - se videoen her: Knude over 3 masker Det er altså de samme 3 masker du strikker sammen 3 gange, da får du 3 masker på højre pind før du slipper de 3 m af venstre pind :)
09.05.2023 - 10:23Denise Bridgesk wrote:
I do not understand the chart knit 3 St's from right side without slipping off left needle p3tog, k3tog p3tog, slip St's off left needle please could you explain
12.11.2022 - 18:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Denise, work 3 sts as follows: purl 3 sts together, but don't slip them off the left needle. In the right needle, you will have 1 extra stitch, but you keep the 3 stitches in the left needle. Knit 3 together in the same stitch where you purled 3 together before. So, you have one more stitch in the right needle and you still have the 3 stitches in the left needle. Purl 3 together once more and now slip the stitches off the left needle: you have now worked the 3 stitches and formed something similar to a bobble. Happy knitting!
14.11.2022 - 00:46Ute Wybiralla wrote:
Ich bin dabei die Schulter des langen Ärmels zu stricken. Nach den Schulterabnahmen heißt es in der Anleitung "Weiter 2 M abketten bis die Arbeit .......... cm misst, danach 3 M 1 Mal auf jeder Seite abketten" Heißt das jetzt 2 M auf jeder Seite, oder jede zweite Reihe insgesamt 2 Maschen? Danke im Voraus
20.01.2022 - 03:36DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wybiralla, ja 2 Maschen sollen Sie auf beiden Seiten (am Anfang jeder Reihe, dh Hin- sowie Rückreihen) bis die Arbeit 55-56 oder 57 cm misst. Beachten Sie nur, daß Sie genausoviele Maschen beidseitig abgekettet haben. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
20.01.2022 - 09:20Helen wrote:
When casting off for the sleeve cap while knitting in the round, must i then start knitting back and forth to shape it?
26.06.2021 - 09:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Helen, yes, unfortuntely there is no way around it.Sleeve caps are knitted back and forth (because of the shaping). Happy Stitching!
26.06.2021 - 15:48