The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Long DROPS jacket in garter st with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.
DROPS 122-40 |
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MEASUREMENT TIP: Because of the weight of the yarn make all measurements while the garment is hanging otherwise it will be too long when worn. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front piece. 1 BUTTONHOLE = bind off third st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on next row. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 41, 51, 61, 71, 81, 91 cm / 16",20",24",28",32",36". SIZE M: 43, 53, 63, 73, 83, 93 cm / 17",21",25",29",33",37". SIZE L: 45, 55, 65, 75, 85, 95 cm / 17½",21½",25½",29½",33½",37½". SIZE XL: 43, 52, 61, 70, 79, 88, 97 cm / 17",20½",24",27½",31",34½",38". SIZE XXL: 46, 55, 64, 73, 82, 91, 100 cm / 18",21½",25",28½",32",35½",39". SIZE XXXL: 49, 58, 67, 76, 85, 94,103 cm / 19½",23",26½",30",33½",37",40½". KNITTING TIP (applies to hood): To avoid a hole in each transition when sts are slipped on stitch holder pick up thread between 2 sts and work this tog with first st on needle. INCREASING TIP (applies to pockets): Inc 1 st inside 1 st each side by making 1 YO. On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. -------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Worked in parts, back and forth on circular needle. BACK PIECE: Cast on 52-55-60-62-68-72 sts on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Snow. Work GARTER ST - see above - back and forth on needle. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When piece measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm / 4¾"-4¾"-4¾"-5½"-5½"-5½" - See MEASUREMENT TIP - dec 1 st each side and repeat the dec each side on every 10-10-10-12-12-13 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛" a total of 7-7-7-6-6-6 times = 38-41-46-50-56-60 sts. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼"-33"-33⅞" - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – bind off for armhole at the beg of every row each side as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 1-2-2-4-4-4 times = 30-31-32-32-34-34 sts. When piece measures 95-98-101-104-107-110 cm / 37⅜"-38½"-39¾"-41"-42"-43⅜" bind off the middle 8-9-10-10-10-10 sts for neck and complete each shoulder separately. Bind off 1 st on neckline on next row = 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 97-100-103-106-109-112 cm / 38¼"-39½"-40½"-41¾"-43"-44". RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 30-32-34-35-38-40 sts (includes 4 front band sts towards front edge) on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Snow. Work garter st back and forth on needle - NOTE: work the 2 sts towards front edge in 2 strands until finished measurements (use a separate ball) and slip first st from mid front as if to K and K this at the end of next row. When piece measures 12-12-12-14-14-14 cm / 4"-4"-4"-4¾"-4¾"-5⅛" dec at the side as described for back piece = 23-25-27-29-32-34 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 41-43-45-43-46-49 cm / 16⅛"-17"-17¾"-17"-18"-19¼" - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – make BUTTONHOLES - see above. When piece measures 76-78-80-82-84-86 cm / 30"-30¾"-31½"-32¼"-33"-33⅞" bind off for armhole at the side as described for back piece – bind off at the beg of every row from the side = 19-20-20-20-21-21 sts. Continue until piece measures 92-94-96-98-101-104 cm / 36¼"-37"-37¾"-38½"-39¾"-41". Now slip the 6 sts towards front edge on a stitch holder for neck (work sts first to avoid having to cut the thread). Slip sts at the beg of every row from mid front on the same stitch holder as follows (work sts first): 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 1-2-2-2-2-2 times = 10-10-10-10-11-11 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 97-100-103-106-109-112 cm / 38¼"-39½"-40½"-41¾"-43"-44". LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work like right front piece, but mirrored. NOTE: Do not make buttonholes. SLEEVE: Cast on 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Snow and work garter st back and forth on needle. When piece measures 20-20-20-22-22-22 cm / 8"-8"-8"-8¾"-8¾"-8¾" - REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP - dec 6 sts evenly (from RS) = 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts. On next row (= WS) inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 6-5-5-3.5-3-2.5 cm / 2⅜"-2"-2"-1¼"-1⅛"-⅞" a total of 5-6-6-7-8-9 times = 34-36-38-40-44-46 sts. When piece measures 48-48-48-46-46-44 cm / 19"-19"-19"-18"-18"-17¼" - NOTE! Less for the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder- bind off for sleeve cap at the beg of every row each side as follows: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 5-6-7-8-9-10 times, then 2 sts at the beg of every row each side until piece measures 56-57-58-58-59-59 cm / 22"-22½"-22¾"-22¾"-23¼"-23¼". Now bind off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-59-59-60-60 cm / 22½"-22¾"-23¼"-23¼"-23⅝"-23⅝". ASSEMBLY: Sew shoulder seams. Set in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams - sew edge to edge in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam. Sew buttons on left front piece. HOOD: Pick up approx 35 to 42 sts round neck (includes sts on stitch holders at front) on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Snow. K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME pick up thread between 2 sts to avoid a hole in transitions at front – See KNITTING TIP. Continue in garter st back and forth on needle – NOTE: work the 2 sts each side towards front edge in 2 strands until finished measurement and slip first st from mid front as if to K and K this at the end of next row. After 8 rows garter st inc evenly on next row from RS to 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts - NOTE: do not inc on the 4 sts each side (= front bands). Continue in garter st until hood measures 47-47-48-48-49-49 cm / X" and bind off. Place hood double and sew tog at the top. POCKET: Cast on 3 sts on circular needle size 10 mm / US 15 with Snow. Work garter st back and forth on needle. AT THE SAME TIME after 2 rows inc 1 st each side – See INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc each side on every other row a total of 10 times = 23 sts. Continue in garter st until pocket measures 23 cm / 9" from cast on row, bind off loosely. Make 2. Place the pockets on each front piece approx 6-8 cm / 2½"-3" from mid front and approx 26-38 cm / 10"-15" from bottom edge (or try on jacket for correct placement) – REMEMBER MEASUREMENT TIP – and sew on. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (88)
I’m thinking of felting this pattern. Can you give me some tips on what size I should knit before felting? I’ve had an accidental felting experience with one of the sweaters I knitted. The felted fabric was so nice, but it shrank so much even my 3 years old daughter couldn’t fit it. Thanks for your previous response!!
09.12.2023 - 15:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear MM, please undertsand that we cannot customise our patterns to each individual request. If you search our database, you will find many patterns that are already designed to be felted. Happy Crafting!
10.12.2023 - 21:25Bonjour Je ne comprends pour les devants, cette phrase: glisser à l'endroit la première maille à partir du milieu devant et la tricoter à l'endroit en fin de rang Merci
26.08.2023 - 17:48DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Peggy, Sur l'endroit, glissez la 1ère maille du devant droit comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit (= sans la tricoter), et sur l'envers, tricotez la dernière maille du devant droit à l'endroit. Sur l'endroit, tricotez la dernière maille du devant gauche à l'endroit, et, sur l'envers, glissez la 1ère maille du devant gauche comme pour la tricoter à l'endroit (sans la tricoter). Bon tricot!
28.08.2023 - 13:51Bonjour J'ai réalisé cette veste et j'ai constaté quil devenait tres distendu donc il s'est allonge énormément Aussi, pourriez vous me dire si le modèle peut être réalisé au point de riz pour plus de tenu et je souhaiterais le faire a 87 cm de longueur maximale et si le fil drop muskat peut convenir en 2 fils sans que la veste se déforme A quelle hauteur dois je faire les augmentations des devants et dos Merci
08.05.2023 - 17:51DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, vous trouverez nos modèles de vestes en tension 11-9 mailles ici, vous y trouverez peut-être l'inspiration, la tension en hauteur étant différente au point mousse et point de riz, il peut être préférable de se pencher sur un modèle prévu au point de riz. L'idéal est de réaliser un échantillon avec 2 fils Muskat pour voir si le résultat vous convient en texture et en tension. Votre magasin saura vous renseigner, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!
09.05.2023 - 07:32, then 2 sts at the beg of every row each side until piece measures 56-57-58-58-59-59 cm. Now cast off 3 sts at beg of the next 2 rows, cast off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-58-59-59-60-60 cm. It doesn’t tell how many stitches left of sleeve after doing this.it’s confusing plz explain. This question is for sleeves Thanks
11.01.2023 - 23:55DROPS Design answered:
Dear Amy, it doesn't because it will depend on your own tension in height, you have to cast off 2 stitches at the beginning of each row on each side until the sleeve measures 57-60 cm (see size) - make sure that you cast off the same number of stitches on each side so that the sleeve cap will be symmetrical. Then cast off 3 sts at the beginning of next 2 rows. Happy knitting!
12.01.2023 - 09:42Je souhaite savoir combien de pelotes j\'ai besoin car je fais 1m60 et je souhaite raccourcir la longueur\r\nJe voudrais environ que la veste arrive au dessus des genoux\r\nMerci
29.10.2022 - 15:54DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Le Terrier, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous pouvez vous inspirer d'un modèle analogue à la longueur souhaitée - n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin DROPS, on saura vous aider et vous conseiller, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!
31.10.2022 - 09:50Verstehe den Stricktipp zur Kapuze nicht: „Damit es in den Übergängen zwischen den M. auf dem Hilfsfaden keine Löcher gibt… “ Was meinen Sie mit Übergängen? Zuletzt: Noch zur Kapuze: Werden die Maschen von der Außenseite („rechte“ Seite) aus aufgenommen oder von der Innenseite („linke“ Seite)? Meinen Sie mit „Vorderseite“ die äußere Seite und mit „Rückseite“ Innenseite?
08.09.2021 - 16:42DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Bongart, beim jedem Vorderteil wurden Maschen in jeder 2. Reihe stillgelegt, um Löcher zu vermeiden wird man hier bei diesen Übergängen zwischen den Maschen auf dem Faden 1 Masche aufnehmen (in diesem dieses Video, Zeit 3:00 z.B. werden 2 Maschen beim Übergang aufgenommen) - die Maschen für die Kapuze sollen auf der Vorderseite = Außenseite aufgenommen werden (= Hinreihen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.09.2021 - 08:28Can I substitute the garter stitch for the moss stitch. Would that complicate or upset the directions too much?
28.11.2020 - 00:57DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lucille, if you substitute garter stitch to moss stitch, you need to make a gauge, to know you're working with the correct tension. Also, there will be some changes, in the number of stitches you have to cast on, for example, since the texture will be different. Happy knitting!
29.11.2020 - 18:01Nie rozumiem jak jest liczone zamykanie oczek na podkrój rękawów. Zamykając 3 oczka muszę przerobić 4o. naraz? 2o. tzn. 3o. A zamykając 1o. przerabiam 2o. naraz? Bo tylko w ten sposób jestem w stanie z 60 oczek zejść do 34. Pozdrawiam serdecznie
02.11.2020 - 19:43DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Kasiu, odpowiedź na to pytanie już została udzielona, zobacz na dole we wzorze. Pozdrawiamy i miłej pracy!
03.11.2020 - 09:14Nie rozumiem jak jest liczone zamykanie oczek na podkrój rękawów. Zamykając 3 oczka muszę przerobić 4o. naraz? 2o. tzn. 3o. A zamykając 1o. przerabiam 2o. naraz? Bo tylko w ten sposób jestem w stanie z 60 oczek zejść do 34. Pozdrawiam serdecznie
01.11.2020 - 22:48DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Kasiu! Jest dokładnie tak jak piszesz. Zamykając 1 oczko przerabiasz 2 o. razem na prawo/lewo (zalezy od wzoru). Zamykając większą liczbę oczek naraz (np. 2, 3) lepiej to zrobić tak jakbyś zakańczała robótkę, wtedy nie będziesz miała takiej zbitki kliku oczek (grudki) i łatwiej będzie później wszyć rękawy. Jak to zrobić znajdziesz TUTAJ. Powodzenia!
02.11.2020 - 10:33Ich möchte fragen,ob jemand diese Jacke mit der vorgegeben,,Drops Eskimo,,Schurwolle gestrickt hat?Wie fühlt sich die Wolle an?Weich oder kratzig und vor allem möchte ich wissen,ob sie sehr fusselt.Welche Wolle kann man als Alternative verwenden?
28.10.2020 - 20:34DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ines, am besten wenden Sie sich an Ihrem DROPS Laden, da jede hat eine persönnliche und individuelle Empfindlichkeit - Alternative zur Eskimo finden Sie auch beim Garnumrechner. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
29.10.2020 - 08:37