The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Fiskevotter |
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Felted DROPS mittens in 2 threads ”Alpaca”
DROPS 103-32 |
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Knitting tension: 16 sts x 20 rows in stocking stitch with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm before felting. Increase tip: Inc 1 st by knitting 2 sts in the same st. Mitten: Knit back and forth in stocking stitch. Cast on 52-52-56 sts on needle 5.5 mm with 2 threads of medium grey. Continue until piece measures 10 cm. Change to 2 threads of light grey at the same time dec 8 sts evenly distributed = 44-44-48 sts. When piece measures 14 cm continue with 1 thread of each colour. When piece measures 17-18-19 cm put 1 marking thread in the 22nd-22nd-24th st on needle (= marking for thumb). Then inc 1 st on each side of st with marking thread on every other row a total of 6-7-8 times - read inc.tip = 56-58-64 sts. After last inc put the inc sts + st with marking thread + 1 st on each side of these sts on a thread for thumb = 15-17-19 thumb sts. Cast on 3 new sts over the thumb sts = 44-44-48 sts. Work measures now approx 23-25-27 cm. Continue in stocking stitch back and forth over these sts. When piece measures 26-27-27 cm change to 2 threads light grey. When piece measures 37½-40½-44½ cm knit all sts tog 2 by 2 = 22-22-24 sts remaining on needle. Pull a double thread through the remaining sts, pull tog and sew away ends. Finished measure = 38-41-45 cm. Thumb: Slip the 15-17-19 thumb sts on double pointed needles size 5,5 mm and pick up 5 sts in the 3 inc sts on hand = 20-22-24 sts. Knit in the round on double pointed needles. When thumb measures approx 6-6-6½ cm from gusset knit the first 4-4-6 sts and the last 4-4-6 sts on round tog 2 by 2 = 16-18-18 sts. Work 2 rows. On next row knit the first 4 sts and the last 4 sts on round tog 2 by 2 = 12-14-14 sts. When piece measures 8½-8½-9 cm knit all sts tog 2 by 2 = 6-7-7 sts. Thumb measures 9-9-9½ cm from gusset. Pull a double thread through the remaining sts, pull tog and sew away ends. Assembly: Sew side seam in the outermost loops so that the seam doesn’t get thick. Felting: To prevent that the thumb and mitten felt tog on the inside, put a small plastic bag in the thumb. Fasten with en safety pin at thumb gusset so that it doesn’t slip out during wash. Put another bag into the hand and fasten with a safety pin. Then put the mittens in the washing machine with a powder without enzymes and optical whites. Wash on 40C with normal spin cycle and without prewash. Then form mittens to correct measures while still wet. For later wash use wool program. AFTER FELTING: If the piece is not felted enough and is too big: Wash the piece one more time in the washing machine while it is still wet add a terry towel that measures approx. 50 x 70 cm - NOTE: Do not use a short program. If the piece has been felted too much and is too small: While the piece is still wet stretch it to the correct measurements, if the piece is dry, make sure to soak it first. Remember: All subsequent washes are as a normal wool garment. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (32)
Maureen wrote:
I'm about to begin the Fiskevotter felted mittens and the finished felted lengths (even size small) indicates it would be 2" longer than I need . The thumb as well. Any suggestions on downsizing pattern or if I felt it longer will it continue to decrease in size that much?
18.01.2024 - 19:21DROPS Design answered:
Dear Maureen, it might be a good idea to make first a Swatch and felt it so that you can adjust to your own measurements how long you will work the mitten. Happy knitting!
19.01.2024 - 09:08Frida wrote:
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zu der Abnahme an der Spitz : "immer 2 und 2 M. zusammenstricken" Wie genau ist das gemeint? In jeder zweiten Runde und pro Nadel zwei M zusammenstricken? Danke!
17.02.2023 - 20:12DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frida, stricken Sie die 4 bzw 6 ersten/letzen Maschen so: 2 Maschen rechts zusammen x 2-3, dann wie zuvor stricken bis 4-6 Maschen übrig sind, 2 Maschen rechts zusammen x 2-3. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
20.02.2023 - 09:03Judy wrote:
Hi thanks for answer previous question about polar mitts...I did one and to me seemed so huge so I ripped out. The finished felted height was such that I worried it would fall off my hand if I had continued on. I loved some of the other designs but thought so too...are they supposed to b so long
12.06.2019 - 14:36DROPS Design answered:
Dear Judy, when you intend to felt a knitted project, you have to adjust the width and the length before felting so that it should be right after felting - read more about felting here. You will find the finished measurements before and after felting in the header, this should help. Happy knitting!
12.06.2019 - 15:47Mona wrote:
Er det noe i veien for å strikke denne på strømpepinner/magic loop så man slipper å sy sømmen i siden?
29.01.2019 - 09:23DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mona. Du kan gjerne strikke den rundt hvis du foretrekker det. God fornøyelse.
29.01.2019 - 13:13LilleLuna wrote:
Kan man kjøpe dette garnet også i butikk?
11.08.2015 - 14:23DROPS Design answered:
Hei LilleLuna. Du kan se alle vores Norske butikker her - du kan ogsaa köbe Alpaca i flere af dem (klik paa butikken for at se deres sortiment)
12.08.2015 - 12:22Connie wrote:
Hej.. inden jeg bestiller garn er jeg i tvivl om hvor meget. Der står 100-100-100 gr f.nr 0501, lysegrå 100-100-100 gr f.nr 0517, mørkegrå, menes der 600 gram i alt, altså 6x100 gr? eller er det er fejl hvad jeg tror.. kh Connie
21.01.2015 - 10:30DROPS Design answered:
Hej Connie. Det er antallet per störrelse. Saa skal du f.eks. lave str S saa bestiller du 100 gr 0501 og 100 gr 0517 (200 gr i alt). God fornöjelse med dem.
21.01.2015 - 15:24Maya wrote:
Skal tommel strikkes likt på begge vottene? Blir ikke tommelen på samme side på begge vottene da?
12.01.2015 - 09:06DROPS Design answered:
Hej Maya. Ja, det er korrekt, men det er ikke noget problem paa dette mönster.
12.01.2015 - 16:15Christine wrote:
Hej, trots att jag följt stickfasthet och inte stickar hårt och fast så blev dessa vantar alldeles för stora. Prövade att tvätta dem om igen ett par gånger, följde instruktionerna, men de blev så stora att jag inte kunde ha dem. Gav bort dem. Tänker inte försöka igen eftersom jag inte vet hur jag skulle kunna göra annorlunda. Chris
04.11.2014 - 19:59DROPS Design answered:
Hej Christine. Det er da aergeligt. Da resultatet kan afvige med filte ifm vaskemaskine og saebe er det altid en god ide og strikke og filte en pröve först, saa ved du praecis hvordan garnet reagerer i din maskine og hvad der skal til for at faa det önskede resultat.
05.11.2014 - 16:44Tanja wrote:
Hallo Drops, vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Nadel 5,5 ist klar... aber das mit den Maschen? Wieviel soll ich anschlagen, 52 M und dann mit doppeltem Faden 10 cm glatt stricken usw. Mir ist die Aufteilung von 52-52-56 unklar. Viele Grüße und Danke
22.10.2014 - 19:52DROPS Design answered:
Oh, da lag das Problem, Entschuldigung, das hatte ich falsch verstanden. Die M-Zahlen beziehen sich auf die verschiedenen Größen, die Handschuhe sind ja in 3 Größen strickbar - S, M und L. Die erste Zahl bezeichnet immer Größe S, die zweite Größe M und die dritte Größe L. Die entsprechenden Maße zum Auswählen der richtigen Größe finden Sie oben neben dem Foto. Sie halten sich also immer an die Zahl, die zu Ihrer Größe passt. So, ich hoffe, nun habe ich Ihnen besser weitergeholfen. :-)
23.10.2014 - 10:28Tanja wrote:
Hallo, bei der Anleitung heißt es am Anfang: "Es wird hin und zurückgestrickt" mit Nadel 5,5... da verstehe ich 1 Paar Nadeln. Dann heißt es aber wieder: "auf Nadel 5,5 52-52-56 Maschen anschlagen". Auf wieviele Nadeln verteile ich die Maschen oder muß man 160 Maschen anschlagen? Wie fange ich an...?!
22.10.2014 - 13:22DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Tanja, Sie schlagen die M auf normalen Stricknadeln an (also 1 Paar Nadeln), und zwar 52-52-56 M (je nach Größe) auf Nadel Nr. 5,5, also 5 1/2. Das soll "Nadel 5,5" heißen - Nadel Nr. 5,5. Das Nadelspiel benötigen Sie erst beim Daumen.
22.10.2014 - 16:07