Moonrise Sweater |
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Knitted sweater in 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with saddle shoulders, double neck and split in sides. Sizes XS - XXL.
DROPS 250-8 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows, from both the right and wrong side. 1 ridge in height = knit 2 rows. DECREASE TIP-1 (for saddle shoulders): All decreases are worked from the right side! BEFORE MARKER: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker, knit 3 together (= 2 stitches decreased). AFTER MARKER: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass slipped stitch over knitted-together stitches (= 2 stitches decreased). DECREASE TIP-2 (for sleeves): All decreases are worked from the right side! BEFORE MARKER: Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker, knit 2 together (= 1 stitch decreased). AFTER MARKER: Slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over knitted stitch (= 1 stitch decreased). INCREASE TIP (for sleeves): Start 1 stitch before the marker-thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes (2 increased stitches). Then work the new stitches in stockinette stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- SWEATER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The pattern uses both long and short needles; start with the length which fits the number of stitches and change when necessary. The piece is worked bottom up. The front and back pieces are worked separately, back and forth as far as the armholes. The sleeves are worked in the round, bottom up as far as the armholes, then placed on the same circular needle as the front and back pieces. The yoke is continued in the round, decreasing for the saddle shoulders and sleeves. The double neck is worked in rib. The side seams are sewn together to finish. BACK PIECE: Cast on 106-118-126-134-150-162 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. Then work as follows from the right side: 4 edge stitches in garter stitch, knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 6 stitches left, knit 2 and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 8 cm = 3⅛". Change to circular needle size 5.5 MM = US 9. Purl 1 row from the wrong side and decrease 30-34-36-36-42-46 stitches evenly spaced – do not decrease over the edge stitches = 76-84-90-98-108-116 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 4 edge stitches in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE! Work until the piece measures 25 cm = 9¾", with the next row from the right side. Bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches for the armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 70-78-82-90-98-106 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side. FRONT PIECE: Cast on and work in the same way as the back piece. SLEEVES: The sleeves are worked in the round. Cast on 56-60-60-64-64-68 stitches with double pointed needles size 3.5 MM = US 4 and 3 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Work rib (knit 2, purl 2) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Knit 1 round and decrease 14-16-14-18-16-18 stitches evenly spaced = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (= mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards, it is used when increasing under the sleeves. Change to needle size 5.5 MM = US 9 and work stockinette stitch. When the sleeve measures 11-10-11-11-12-11 cm = 4⅜"-4"-4⅜"-4⅜"-4¾"-4⅜", increase 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread – read INCREASE TIP. Repeat this increase every 4½-4-2½-2-1½-1½ cm = 1⅝"-1½"-1"-¾"-½"-½" a total of 6-7-9-12-13-13 times = 54-58-64-70-74-76 stitches. Work until the sleeve measures 37-36-35-35-34-32 cm = 14½"-14¼"-13¾"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½". There is approx. 25-27-29-30-32-34 cm = 9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜" to the neckline – try the sleeve on and work to desired length. Bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve (i.e., 3-3-4-4-5-5 stitches on each side of the marker-thread) = 48-52-56-62-64-66 stitches. Cut the strand. Lay the piece to one side. YOKE: Now place the front piece, back piece and sleeves on the same circular needle and continue in the round with stockinette stitch. AT THE SAME TIME, on the first round insert 4 markers between 2 stitches, which are used when decreasing on the sleeves and saddle shoulders – allow the markers to follow your work onwards: Work to the middle of the back piece. Work the next 39-41-43-44-45-47 stitches (= ½ back piece), insert marker-1 here, work 40-48-52-64-72-78 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-2 here, work 78-82-86-88-90-94 stitches (= front piece), insert marker-3 here, work 40-48-52-64-72-78 stitches (= sleeve), insert marker-4 here, work to marker-1 (= ½ back piece). There are 40-48-52-64-72-78 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and between markers 3 and 4 (= sleeves). There are 78-82-86-88-90-94 stitches between markers 2 and 3 and between markers 4 and 1 (= front/back pieces). Start the round straight after marker-1 and work stockinette stitch in the round for 1-0-0-1-0-0 cm = ⅜"-0"-0"-⅜"-0"-0", AT THE SAME TIME on the next round begin decreasing for the sleeves as follows: SLEEVE DECREASES-1: Read the next section before continuing! On the next round decrease 8 stitches on the sleeves as follows: NOTE! Do not work this section in size S, go straight to SLEEVE DECREASES-2. Decrease 2 stitches AFTER markers 1 and 3 and decrease 2 stitches BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – read DECREASE TIP-1. Decrease only on the sleeves (the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 0-1-2-7-8-9 times = 236-252-260-248-260-272 stitches. SLEEVE DECREASES -2: On the next round, decrease 4 stitches on the sleeves as follows. Decrease 1 stitch AFTER markers 1 and 3 and decrease 1 stitch BEFORE markers 2 and 4 – read DECREASE TIP-2. Only decrease on the sleeves (the number of stitches on the front and back pieces remains the same). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 13-15-15-10-12-13 times = 184-192-200-208-212-220 stitches (there are 14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches left on each sleeve). The piece measures approx. 14-16-17-18-20-22 cm = 5½"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-8"-8¾" from where the pieces were joined. Now work the saddle shoulders. SADDLE SHOULDERS-1: On the next round decrease 8 stitches as follows: Decrease 2 stitches BEFORE markers 1 and 3 and decrease 2 stitches AFTER markers 2 and 4 – remember DECREASE TIP-1. Only decrease on the front and back pieces (the number of stitches on the sleeves remains the same). Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 4-4-5-5-5-5 times = 152-160-160-168-172-180 stitches. The piece measures approx. 44-46-47-48-50-52 cm = 17¼"-18"-18½"-19"-19¾"-20½" from the cast-on edge. Make sure the next round is a round without decreases. Knit 1 round and bind off the middle 18-22-22-24-26-30 stitches on the front piece for the neckline – NOTE! Work to the end of the round and cut the strand. You now continue back and forth from mid-front, working the first row from the right side as follows: AT THE SAME TIME decrease for the neckline and the saddle shoulders. Read both sections before continuing. NECKLINE: Bind off for the neck at the beginning of each row as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 1 time and 1 stitch 3 times on each side. SADDLE SHOULDERS-2: Continue decreasing 8 stitches for the saddle shoulders on each row from the right side 7-7-7-7-7-7 more times, a total of 11-11-12-12-12-12 times, with the last row worked from the right side. AFTER THE LAST DECREASE: There are 62-66-66-72-74-78 stitches (14-14-14-16-16-16 stitches on each sleeve, zero stitches on the front piece and 34-38-38-40-42-46 stitches on the back piece). The yoke measures approx. 25-27-29-30-32-34 cm = 9¾"-10⅝"-11⅜"-11¾"-12½"-13⅜" from the join, the sweater measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm = 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from the shoulder. Cut the strand. DOUBLE NECK: Move the beginning of the round to mid-back by placing worked stitches on the right needle back on the left needle. Use circular needle size 3.5 MM = US 4 and work stockinette stitch as far as the neckline, knit up 34-38-38-40-42-46 stitches along the neck line, then stockinette stitch to mid-back = 96-104-104-112-116-124 stitches. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) at the same time, on the first round decrease 4-8-8-8-8-12 stitches evenly spaced = 92-96-96-104-108-112 stitches (the stitch count should be divisible by 4). Work rib for 11 cm = 4⅜", bind off a little loosely. Fold the neck double to the inside and fasten down with a couple of stitches. ASSEMBLY: Sew the side seams, starting by the armhole and sewing in the outermost loop of the outermost stitch so the seam is flat. Leave a split at the bottom on each side of desired length (you will have 8 garter stitches down each side seam). Sew together the openings under each sleeve. |
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Comments / Questions (4)
Hélène Gervais wrote:
Je n’ai pas accès à vos vidéos, y a-t’-il quelque chose de spécial à faire?
29.04.2024 - 20:28DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Gervais, vous devez accepter tous les cookies pour pouvoir accéder aux vidéos, si vous les refusez, vous bloquez YouTube. Merci pour votre compréhension. Bon tricot!
30.04.2024 - 07:51Sissi wrote:
Orphee
19.01.2024 - 18:11Ana wrote:
Hug me tight
18.01.2024 - 23:46Ana wrote:
Sunny snow
18.01.2024 - 18:54