DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Avalanche Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, relief-pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

DROPS 243-7
DROPS Design: Pattern bm-112
Yarn group A
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 98-106-114-124-156-148 cm = 38½"-41¾"-45"-48¾"-61⅜"-58⅜"
Full length: 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

YARN:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color 02, off white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 521: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5: Length 40 cm = 16" and 80 cm = 32".
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5: Length 80 cm = 32".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM = US 2.5.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM = US 1.5.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm = 32" circular needle in each size.

KNITTING GAUGE:
26 stitches in width and 34 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans assembly free double neck relief round neck round yoke top down

DROPS Baby Merino
100% Wool
from 4.55 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.85$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

ELEVATION (back of neck):
To make the back of the neck slightly higher on a round yoke, you can work an elevation as described here. Skip this section if you do not want an elevation.
Insert 1 marker in the middle stitch on the row.
Start from the right side and knit 16-17-18-19-20-21 stitches past the marker-stitch, turn, tighten strand and purl 33-35-37-39-41-43 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 49-52-55-58-61-64 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 65-69-73-77-81-85 stitches back. Turn, tighten strand and knit 81-86-91-96-101-106 stitches, turn, tighten strand and purl 97-103-109-115-121-127 stitches. Turn, tighten strand, knit 1 row then purl 1 row (with the bands worked in garter stitch). Now work the yoke as described in the text.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.
Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2).

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row/round to avoid a hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first knitted row after the neck, the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 7½-8-8½-7½-7½-8 cm = 2⅞"-3⅛"-3¼"-2⅞"-2⅞"-3⅛" between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. You can work an elevation at the back of the neck if you wish. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 137-143-147-153-159-169 stitches with DROPS Baby Merino, using short circular needles size 2.5 and 3 MM = US 2.5 held together. Remove the needle size 3 MM = US 2.5 keeping stitches on needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge).
Work as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left on the row, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 4-4-4-5-5-5 cm = 1½"-1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2".
Cast on 6 stitches for the bands at the end of the next 2 rows = 149-155-159-165-171-181 stitches.
Continue the rib but with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the rib measures 8-8-8-10-10-10 cm = 3⅛"-3⅛"-3⅛"-4"-4"-4" and the next row is from the right side, fold the neck double to the inside and work as follows: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, continue the rib but working every 4th stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge, until there are 7 stitches left, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
You now have a double neck.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 3 MM = US 2.5.
Work the first row as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, purl until there are 7 stitches left and increase 34-36-36-38-40-42 stitches evenly over these stitches – read INCREASE TIP = 183-191-195-203-211-223 stitches.
Insert 1 marker after the band at the beginning of the row – it will be used to measure the yoke.
You can now work an ELEVATION in the back of the neck – read description above.
Continue with the next section if you do not want an elevation.

Work stockinette stitch back and forth with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side – remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the yoke measures 3-4-6-2-3-4 cm = 1⅛"-1½"-2⅜"-¾"-1⅛"-1½" from the marker, increase 39-39-43-39-39-41 stitches evenly spaced – remember INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the bands) = 222-230-238-242-250-264 stitches. The increases on the relief-pattern are finished in sizes S, M and L.

SIZES XL, XXL and XXXL:
When the yoke measures 4-6-8 cm = 1½"-2⅜"-3⅛" from the marker, increase 36-36-38 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the bands) = 278-286-302 stitches.

ALL SIZES:
= 222-230-238-278-286-302 stitches. Continue with stockinette stitch and 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side until the yoke measures 4-5-7-5-7-9 cm = 1½"-2"-2¾"-2"-2¾"-3½" from the marker.
Work as follows from the right side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 26-27-28-33-34-36 times and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern.
AT THE SAME TIME on each row marked with an arrow in A.1, increase as follows (do not increase over the bands):
Arrow-1: Increase 40-48-56-40-48-56 stitches evenly spaced = 262-278-294-318-334-358 stitches.
Arrow-2: Increase 48-44-52-42-54-58 stitches evenly spaced = 310-322-346-360-388-416 stitches.

When A.1 is finished, the yoke measures approx. 10-11-13-11-13-15 cm = 4"-4⅜"-5⅛"-4⅜"-5⅛"-6" from the marker. Work as follows from the right side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.2A 24-25-27-24-26-28 times, A.2B, 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this pattern according to the diagrams.
When you reach the row marked with arrow-3 there are 410-426-458-510-550-590 stitches. Work this row and increase 1-7-11-3-10-3 stitches evenly spread = 411-433-469-513-560-593 stitches.

When A.2 is finished, the yoke measures approx. 21-22-24-26-28-30 cm = 8¼"-8¾"-9½"-10¼"-11"-11¾" from the marker.
Now divide for the body and sleeves as follows: Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work the first row in A.3 over the next 59-64-69-74-82-90 stitches and increase 6-7-7-8-8-9 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 72-78-83-89-97-106 stitches on the front piece), place the next 80-80-89-100-109-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the first row in A.3 over the next 119-131-139-151-164-181 stitches and increase 11-11-13-13-16-17 stitches evenly over these stitches (= 130-142-152-164-180-198 stitches on the back piece), place the next 80-80-89-100-109-109 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches under the sleeve, work the first row in A.3 over the next 59-64-69-74-82-90 stitches and increase 6-7-7-8-8-9 stitches evenly over these stitches, 7 band stitches in garter stitch (= 72-78-83-89-97-106 stitches on the front piece).
The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 290-314-338-362-398-434 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.3 23-25-27-29-32-35 times, 7 band stitches in garter stitch.
Continue this pattern. When A.3 is finished there are 267-289-311-333-366-399 stitches.
Insert 2 marker-threads, each 70-75-81-86-95-103 stitches in from each side (= 127-139-149-161-176-193 stitches between the marker-threads on the back piece). Allow them to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue with stockinette stitch and 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 16-17-17-17-17-17 cm = 6¼"-6¾"-6¾"-6¾"-6¾"-6¾" from the division and the next row is from the right side, divide at both marker threads and finish the front and back pieces separately.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 70-75-81-86-95-103 stitches for the left front piece on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 23-26-26-31-32-36 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 93-101-107-117-127-139 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off – you can use Italian bind-off. The jacket measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm = 19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝" from the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Place the 70-75-81-86-95-103 stitches for the right front piece on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 23-26-26-31-32-36 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 93-101-107-117-127-139 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 7 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the left front piece.

BACK PIECE:
Place the 127-139-149-161-176-193 m stitches for the back piece on circular needle size 2.5 MM = US 1.5. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 46-48-52-58-65-70 stitches evenly spaced = 173-187-201-219-241-263 stitches.
Work as follows from the wrong side: 3 stitches in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 4 stitches left, purl 1 and 3 stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the front pieces.

SLEEVES:
Start mid-under one sleeve, use short circular needle or double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5 and knit up 1 stitch in each of the last 4-4-5-5-6-6 cast-on stitches, place the 80-80-89-100-109-109 stitches from the thread on short circular/double pointed needles size 3 MM = US 2.5, work the first row in A.3 and increase 8-8-9-10-11-11 stitches evenly, knit up 1 stitch in each of the first 4-4-5-5-6-6 cast-on stitches = 96-96-108-120-132-132 stitches. Work sleeve worked in the round.
Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches under the sleeve) – allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve. Work A.3 8-8-9-10-11-11 times on the round. When A.3 is finished, 1 stitch has been decreased in each repeat (8-8-9-10-11-11 decreased stitches). Continue with stockinette stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME, when the sleeve measures 2 cm = ¾", decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2nd round a total of 2-0-3-7-10-10 times, then every 4th round 6-6-8-8-8-8 times = 72-76-77-80-85-85 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 36-35-34-32-31-29 cm = 14¼"-13¾"-13⅜"-12½"-12¼"-11⅜" from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 8 cm = 3⅛"). Knit 1 round and increase 26-26-29-30-31-31 stitches evenly spaced = 98-102-106-110-116-116 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 MM = US 1.5 and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 8 cm = 3⅛". Bind off in the same way as on the body.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew together the openings on the bands with small stitches.
Sew the buttons onto the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is worked as shown in the diagram on the next row/round to leave a hole
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over which is knitted twisted on the next row to avoid a hole
	= knit 2 together
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle behind the piece, knit 1, purl 1 from cable needle
	= place 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, purl 1, knit 1 from cable needle
	= knit 3, pass the first knitted stitch over so it lies around the other 2 stitches
	= slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 2 together, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted-together stitches
	= no stitch as it was decreased earlier or didn’t ever exist; go straight to next symbol in diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
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Comments / Questions (23)

Hanne Jespersen wrote:

Hej Jeg kan slet ikke få A1 til at passe. Jeg har prøvet om og om igen. Den lille snoning kommer slet ikke til at ligne billedet, hvor det jo nærmest bare ligner retmasker, der danner V-er. Jeg håber meget, at I kan hjælpe mig. Venlig hilsen Hanne

26.03.2024 - 04:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne, prøv at kun strikke de 8 masker i A.1, du flytter helt enkelt bare retmasken (ifølge symbolforklaringen). Du starter nederst i højre side og strikker mod venstre, de små snoninger strikkes fra retsiden og på pinden tilbage (næste pind i diagrammet) strikkes de modsat, så det bliver til vrang på retsiden :)

04.04.2024 - 15:31

Helle Nielsen wrote:

Når jeg er klar til at dele bærestykket og skal tage masker af til forstykke. Skal jeg tage 8 masker ud fordelt over 74 masker. Det har jeg gjort og skal så ende med 89 masker, det regnestykke kan jeg ikke få til at passe. Jeg skal strikke første p. I a3 og det er en glat uden udt. Er der noget. Jeg overser?

24.03.2024 - 11:46

Hej Helle, jeg kan ikke finde de 89 masker du beskriver... Hvilken størrelse strikker du og hvor er du i opskriften?

03.04.2024 - 15:05

Trine Haugen wrote:

Når jeg er ferdig med a1 skal jeg strikke a.2a skal jeg strikke det sammen med a.2b eller bare a.2a ut pinnen?

15.03.2024 - 12:55

Hej Trine, ja du gentager A.2A det antal gange som passer til din størrelse og så afslutter du omgangen med A.2B inden kantmaskerne :)

19.03.2024 - 12:19

Edyta wrote:

7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim, powtórzyć 24-25-27-24-26-28 razy schemat A.2A, przerobić A.2B i zakończyć przerabiając 7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim. Dalej przerabiać tak samo zgodnie ze schematami. Gdy dojdziemy do rzędu oznaczonego strzałką-3 na drucie jest 410-426-458-510-550-590 oczek. Przepraszam, ale nie rozumiem kiedy przerabiać schemat A.2A i A.2B

09.03.2024 - 15:33

Witaj Edyto, na prawej stronie robótki przerabiasz 1 schemat A.2B przed 7 ostatnimi oczkami ściegiem francuskim jak w opisie (7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim, powtórzyć 24-25-27-24-26-28 razy schemat A.2A, przerobić A.2B i zakończyć przerabiając 7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim). Za to na lewej stronie przerabiasz: 7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim, 1 raz schemat A.2B, 24-25-27-24-26-28 razy schemat A.2A i 7 oczek obszycia przodu ściegiem francuskim. Jak czytać schematy w robótce na drutach znajdziesz TUTAJ. Pozdrawiamy!

11.03.2024 - 08:42

Claudia wrote:

Ich stricke Grösse M. Ich habe A1 gestrickt und bei Pfeil 2 44M zugenommen=322. Dann folgt A2 und passt nicht. 25 × 12M =300+ 14 RM = 314 M und nicht 322. Wo ist mein Fehler?

05.03.2024 - 09:05

Liebe Claudia, am Ende der Reihe wird man A.2B stricken, damit das Muster symmetrisch wird, dh so sollen Sie stricken: 7 Blenden-Maschen, die 12 Maschen A.2A 25 Mal wiederholen (= über die nächsten 300 Maschen), dann die 8 Maschen A.2B stricken und 7 Blenden-Maschen 7+300+8+7=322 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

05.03.2024 - 15:28

Amelie wrote:

Bonjour. Quand je passe du diagramme A1 à A2 je ne comprends pas. J'ai 322 mailles (taillesM). En suivant les diagrammes et le patron, quand j'additionne les 14 mailles des bords + (12×25) + 8 ça fait bien 322. Pourtant il y a des cases noires sur le diagrammes, et quand je ré aditionne ça fait moins que 322 mailles alors qu'il est spécifié qu'on doit faire 25 fois le A2A. Je ne comprends pas ce que que dois faire des mailles manquantes... Merci Amélie

17.02.2024 - 12:16

Amélie answered:

Autant pour moi j'ai compté directement les cases sur le diagramme et ça fait 12 + les 3 cases noires merci 🙂

17.02.2024 - 12:32

Amel wrote:

Bonjour je peux tricoter les manches en allers retours ?

08.01.2024 - 14:51

Bonjour Amel, tout à fait, montez la moitié des mailles à relever sous la manche + 1, tricotez les mailles des manches et montez l'autre moitié des mailles à relever + 1 - les 2 m en plus sont pour les coutures. Retrouvez plus d'infos ici. Bon tricot!

09.01.2024 - 07:09

Kerstin Björklund wrote:

Enligt mönstret ska det var Baby Merinoull med stickfastighet 26 x 34. Enligt garnet så är det 24x 32 . Något måste vara fel för det stämmer inte. Vilket garn ska det vara som passar till mönstret.

27.12.2023 - 17:27

Hej Kerstin, jo det stemmer, design har valgt at strikke denne på 26 masker på 10 cm i DROPS Baby Merino :)

02.01.2024 - 12:11

Catharina Joelsson wrote:

Stickar A:3 på ärmar. När A:3 är färdigstickat ska jag ha minskat 1 maska i varje rapport. Samtidigt ska jag efter 2 cm från delningen minska mitt under ärmen först på vartannat varv och sedan på vart fjärde. Detta går ju inte ihop med rapporterna för efter 2 cm har jag ju inte kommit fram till slätstickning. Hur ska jag göra? Vänl hälsn

17.12.2023 - 13:16

Hei Catharina. Mønstret vil ikke stemme 100% under ermet i A.3, men dette vil ikke vises ved brukt. mvh DROPS Design

18.12.2023 - 09:36

Ingela Gotthardsson wrote:

Saknar diagram A3

10.12.2023 - 16:49

Hei Ingela. Du finner diagram A.3 under A.2A og til høyre fra diagram A.1. mvh DROPS Design

11.12.2023 - 12:55

Avalanche Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, relief-pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a sweater top down

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Comments / Questions (23)

Avalanche Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS BabyMerino. The piece is worked top down with double neck, round yoke, relief-pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool	4.55 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Baby Merino mix 100% Wool 4.55 $ /50g Order