Slovenia

DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.85€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Green Whisper Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 243-4

#greenwhispercardigan

DROPS Design: Pattern ai-462
Yarn group C + A + A or E
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 42, pistachio ice cream
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
175-200-225-250-275-300 g colour 47, pistachio ice cream

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTONS NO 502: 6-6-6-7-7-7 items.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 MM: Length 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5.5 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
12 stitches in width and 20 rows in height with 1 strand DROPS Air, 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk and moss stitch (A.1) = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Women Jackets & Cardigans Basic Cardigans assembly free double neck moss st raglan round neck top down

DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 5.30 € /50g

Order

DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 5.05 € /25g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 61.85€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases are worked from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch before/after the 4 marker-stitches – hereafter known as raglan-stitches.
The raglan-stitches are knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over which is worked twisted on the next row as described below. The new stitches are worked into A.1.

From the wrong side:
BEFORE raglan-stitch:
Purl the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over was knitted, or knit the yarn over twisted if the last stitch before the yarn over should was purled, there should be no hole.
AFTER raglan-stitch:
Slip the yarn over knit-wise, place it back on the left needle the other way round (twisted), purl the yarn over if the next stitch is to be knitted or knit the yarn over if the next stitch is to be purled, there should be no hole.

INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced):
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, which is worked twisted on the next row/round = no hole.

DECREASE TIP (mid-under sleeve):
Decrease 1 stitch alternately before and after the marker-stitch, by either knitting or purling 2 together depending on the previous/next stitch in A.1.

BUTTONHOLES:
Work buttonholes on the right band (when the garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 4 stitches left on the row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit 2. On the next row (wrong side), knit the yarn over to leave a hole.
The first buttonhole is worked on the first row from the right side after the neckline. Then work the other 5-5-5-6-6-6 buttonholes with approx. 8-8½-9-7½-8-8 cm between each one.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE.
The neck is worked back and forth with circular needle, from mid front and top down. A neckline is worked with short rows, the yoke continued before being divided for body and sleeves. The body is continued back and forth with circular needle then divide piece for splits in each side and work each piece separately until finished measurements. The sleeves are worked in the round with circular needles/ double pointed needles.
The neck is folded double and sewn down to finish.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 69-73-75-79-81-87 stitches with circular needle size 7 mm, 1 strand DROPS Air and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk (3 strands). Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work the next row as follows from the right side: 1 GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib back and forth for 5-5-5-6-6-6 cm. At the end of the next 2 rows, cast on 6 band stitches = 81-85-87-91-93-99 stitches.
Continue the rib with the 7 outermost stitches on each side in garter stitch (bands).
Work until the neck measures 10-10-10-12-12-12 cm and the next row is from the right side.
Insert 4 markers without working the stitches.
NOTE: In size S, M, L and XXL each marker is placed in a purl stitch, seen from the right side; in size XL and XXXL each marker is placed in a knit stitch, seen frrom the right side – the stitches with a marker are now called raglan-stitches The raglan stitches are now knitted from the right side and purled from the wrong side.

Count 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches (front piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 15-19-21-19-19-23 stitches (back piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 17-17-15-17-19-17 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch. There are 14-14-16-17-16-19 stitches left after the last marker (front piece).

Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 1 and 2 (do not decrease the raglan-stitches), decrease 0-4-2-0-0-0 stitches evenly between markers 2 and 3, decrease 2-2-0-0-2-0 stitches evenly between markers 3 and 4, knit to end of row = 77-77-85-91-89-99 stitches.
There are 15-15-15-17-17-17 stitches between markers 1 and 2 and markers 3 and 4 (sleeves) and 15-15-19-19-19-23 stitches between markers 2 and 3 (back piece).

NECKLINE:
Change to circular needle size 7 mm. Now work a neckline with short rows AT THE SAME TIME increase for raglan as described below. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
ROW 1 (wrong side): Work 7 band stitches in garter stitch, work A.1, remembering to knit the 4 raglan-stitches from the right side and purl them from the wrong side. Work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 1 i (i.e., front left of neck when the garment is worn), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 2 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches – read description above, work to 2 stitches past raglan-stitch 4 (i.e., front right of neck = 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 3 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 4 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 increased stitches), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 5 (wrong side): Work A.1 to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 1, turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 6 (right side): Work A.1 and increase for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches, work to 2 stitches past the previous turn by marker 4 (= 8 stitches increased), turn, tighten the strand.
ROW 7 (wrong side). Work A.1 to the end of the row (the raglan-stitches are purled from the wrong side and the bands worked in garter stitch).

The short rows are finished and you have increase 3 times for raglan on each side of all 4 raglan-stitches = 101-101-109-115-113-123 stitches.
Work now the yoke as described below, from mid-front. Remember the BUTTONHOLES on the right band – read description above.

YOKE:
Continue A.1 with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side and the raglan-stitches knitted from the right side/purled from the wrong side. Continue to increase for raglan as follows:

Increase every 2nd row (each row from the right side) but every 2nd increase is only on the front/back pieces, i.e., increase on the front/back pieces every 2nd row, increase on the sleeves every 4th row (increase alternately 4 and 8 stitches). Increase like this 12-14-18-18-20-20 times on the front/back pieces and 6-7-9-9-10-10 times on the sleeves = 173-185-217-223-233-243 stitches.
The increases on the sleeves are finished. Continue to increase on the front/back pieces 4-4-0-1-2-3 more times = 189-201-217-227-241-255 stitches.
All increases are now finished.
Continue working without further increases until the yoke measures 19-21-22-22-25-26 cm, measured after the neck mid-back.

Divide for the body and sleeves as follows:
Work the first 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches as before (front piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 55-59-63-65-71-77 stitches (back piece), place the next 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches on 1 thread for the sleeve, cast on 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches (in side under sleeve), work the last 34-36-38-40-42-46 stitches (front piece). The body and sleeves are finished separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 137-145-153-163-177-195 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under each sleeve. Allow them to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Continue A.1 over all stitches with 7 band stitches in garter stitch on each side.
When the body measures 21-21-22-23-22-23 cm from the division, divide at both markers and finish each piece separately. The marker-stitches belong to each front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from the side): 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 8 stitches left, purl 1 and 7 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off. You can use Italian cast off – see video under Tips and Help on our web page. The jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 38-40-42-44-48-52 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 9-9-9-11-11-13 stitches evenly spaced (do not increase over the band) = 47-49-51-55-59-65 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm and work as follows from the wrong side (from mid-front): 7 band stitches in garter stitch * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the left front piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 61-65-69-75-81-91 stitches. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 18-20-20-20-24-24 stitches evenly spaced = 79-85-89-95-105-115 stitches.
Change to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work as follows from the wrong side: 1 garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the front pieces.

SLEEVES:
Place the 33-35-39-41-43-43 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 7 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 7-7-7-9-11-13 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 40-42-46-50-54-56 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve.
Start at the marker and continue A.1 in the round.
When the sleeve measures 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch before the marker – read DECREASE TIP. When the sleeve measures 12-12-8-6½-5-5 cm from division, decrease 1 stitch after the marker – remember DECREASE TIP. Continue to decrease like this (alternately before and after the marker) every 8-8-4-3-2-2 cm a total of 4-4-8-10-14-14 times (2-2-4-5-7-7 times before and 2-2-4-5-7-7 times after the marker) = 36-38-38-40-40-42 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-35-35-36-34-32 cm from the division. Knit 1 round and increase 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches evenly spaced = 50-52-54-56-58-60 stitches.
Change to double pointed needles size 5.5 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 10 cm. Cast off in the same way as on the body. The sleeve measures approx. 47-45-45-46-44-42 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the neck double to the inside and sew down. To avoid the neck being tight and folding outwards, it is important that the seam is elastic. Sew the openings mid-front on the bands, with small stitches.

Sew the buttons onto the left band.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 27.10.2023
DOUBLE NECK: Knit 1 row from the right side and decrease 4-8-2-0-4-0 stitches evenly as follows: Work past marker-1, ...

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Green Whisper Cardigan

Knitting Liesel, Switzerland

Comments / Questions (38)

Ximena wrote:

Thank u! I’m knitting size M and I’m doing the first 8 decreases after the collar. The pattern says, after the decreases, I should have 14 for the front piece, 15 for the sleeve, 15 for the back, 15 for the second sleeve and 14 for the other front piece and that I should have then 77 stitches. I do have 77 stitches after the decreases but I have 14 +15+19+15+15+14 = 77. What the pattern says: 14+15+15+15+14 would be 73. Is there a mistake in the pattern?

21.12.2024 - 14:43

Heleen wrote:

Hallo, ik heb een vraag over Drops 243-4. Bij de ‘halslijn’ moet er bij ‘naald 1 - verkeerde kant’ gebreid worden tot voorbij raglansteek 1. Wil dit zeggen dat ik na de 7 ribbelsteken en 7 reguliere steken en na de eerste raglansteek en na 2 steken erna al moet keren? Hoe moet ik dan ‘naald 2 - goede kant’ breien met zo weinig steken?

03.12.2024 - 20:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Heleen,

Ja, dat klopt , je keert nadat je 2 steken na de raglansteek hebt gebreid. Bij naald 2 brei je dus weer vanaf dat punt op de goede kant en je meerdert bij alle raglansteken. Je breit tot 2 steken voorbij raglansteek 4 en dan keer je het werk weer om aan de verkeerde kant terug te breien (3e naald).

05.12.2024 - 20:04

Thank you for your help! Would you happen to know the chest measurements / height of the model and which size of the cardigan she’s wearing? Would love a similar fit to hers and I’m debating between S and M (my chest is 94cm and I’m 166cm). Many thanks! :)

01.11.2024 - 06:08

Dear Ximena, to find out the most appropriate size measure a similar garment you have and like the size and compare them to the measurements in the chart - read more here - you can then either use a S if you like a somewhat fitting ease or a size M for a looser fit. Happy knitting!

01.11.2024 - 10:01

Agnès wrote:

Empiècement : Taille XL si on augmente 9 x 8 mailles et 18 x 4 mailles on obtient 144 mailles et non 108 comme indiqué (soit 115 auparavant et 223 après augmentations) merci!!

24.10.2024 - 14:16

Bonjour Agnès, en taille XL, vous avez bien 115 m après l'encolure, vous augmentez ensuite 18x4 m (dos/devant tous les 2 rangs) + 9x 4 m (manches tous les 4 rangs), vous avez ainsi: 115+(18x4)+(9x4)=223 m. Notez que les 9x ne concernent que les manches, donc vous augmentez 9 fois 2 m tous les 4 rangs pour chaque manche et 18 fois 2 m pour les devants + autant pour le dos tous les 2 rangs pour les devants et le dos. Bon tricot!

24.10.2024 - 15:11

Brigitte Fawer wrote:

Est-il possible de tricoter ce modèle avec des aiguilles droites? Je ne maitrise pas encore très bien l'aiguille circulaire pour ce genre de travail un peu plus compliqué . Merci

21.10.2024 - 11:44

Bonjour Mme Fawer, le col et l'empiècement (avant la division donc) se tricotent en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles; après la division, on continue le dos et les devants en allers et retours, les manches se tricotent en rond, cette leçon pourra vous aider à faire les ajustements nécessaires. Bon tricot!

21.10.2024 - 15:37

Ucume wrote:

I’d love to make this pattern in one of your yarns that doesn’t contain synthetic materials (this is because I want to dye it with botanicals myself and synthetic thread doesn’t take up natural dye). Would Brushed Alpaca Silk be a good substitute and, if so, would I still add an extra thread of kid silk? And how many grams of the substitute yarn would I need for a size M, please? Thank you so, so much!

17.09.2024 - 15:09

Dear Ucume, use the yarn converter to see all possible alternatives for both Air and Kid-Silk (you have to work with 1 strand yarn group C (or 2 strands yarn group A) + 2 strands yarn group A (or 1 strand yarn group C) so even 2 strands yarn group C or 1 strand yarn group E. Read more about alternatives and calculate new amount here. Happy knitting!

17.09.2024 - 16:29

Viv McDade wrote:

Thank you so much for such speedy and helpful responses. I really appreciate it!

26.02.2024 - 15:37

Tx so much for such fast response - really appreciate 🙏\r\n2 more questions I’m afraid:\r\nDivide for body and sleeves: 40 (front) +65 (back) + 40 (front) = 145. But pattern BODY states 163 st!??\r\nLEFT AND RIGHT FRONT PIECES each states you’ll work on 44 st - but 40 st per front piece stated when dividing!??\r\nThanks again

26.02.2024 - 14:21

Dear Mrs McDade, don't forget the 9 new stitches you will cast on under each sleeve when slipping the stitches on a thread, so that you will have: 40+9+65+9+40=163 sts. See also this lesson from picture 10 (slipping sts on a thread) / 11 (casting on new sts under sleeve). Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 15:03

Viv wrote:

Green Whisper Cardigan 243-4. ai-462 1. Started yoke with 115 stitches as directed. Instruction is to now increase 4 sts on every 2nd row x 18 times & 8 sts every 4th row x 9 times. This means 4x18 + 8x9, which totals 144 sts. Add 115 at beginning of yoke = 259 sts. But pattern states 223 sts!?? 2. Divide for body and sleeves: 40 (front) +65 (back) + 40 (front) = 145. But pattern BODY states 163 st!?? LEFT AND RIGHT FRONT PIECES each 44 st - not 40 as stated when dividing!??

26.02.2024 - 12:32

26.02.2024 - 12:30

Dear Mrs McDade, you will increase now 4 sts a total of 18 times for body (72 sts) and 4 sts a total of 9 times for sleeves (36 sts), so that you have: 115+72+36 = 223 sts. Hope it can help. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 14:07

Green Whisper Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to increase stitches at the end of a row

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Green Whisper Cardigan

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Green Whisper Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Air and DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked top down with moss stitch, double neck, raglan and split in the sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

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