DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Winter Serenity

The set consists of: Knitted hat with garter stitch and wrist warmers. The set is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

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DROPS 180-35

#winterserenityset

DROPS Design: Pattern no z-807
Yarn group A
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For the whole set, there will be enough yarn with approx. 150 g in both sizes in DROPS Alpaca.
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HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
100 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
50 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
 100% Alpaca
from 18.00 RON /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 5 popular yarns all February!
Valid until 28.02.2025

Pattern instructions

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth – for hat):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for wrist warmers and hat):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round/row knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for hat):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread as follows: Knit 2 together.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle and is sewn together mid back to finish. 
Loosely cast on 122-142 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side.
When the piece measures 6 cm, change to needle size 3 mm and insert 5 marker threads in the piece from the right side as follows: Insert 1 marker thread after 1 stitch, the next 4 are inserted with 24-28 stitches between them, after the last marker thread, there are 25-29 stitches. Now continue working in garter stitch. On the next row from the right side, increase 1 stitch after all the marker threads (= 5 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Increase in this way every 2nd row 3 more times and then every 4th row a total of 7 times = 177-197 stitches. When the piece measures 11-12 cm from the rib decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread on the next row from the right side (= 5 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease in this way every 2nd row a total of 17-19 times = 92-102 stitches.
Work all stitches together 2 and 2 on each row from the right side a total of 3 times = 12-13 stitches. The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm.
Pull 1 thread through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew the hat together mid back inside 1 edge stitch.
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RIGHT WRIST WARMER: 
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. 
Cast on 65-70 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 3). After 4 rounds rib, decrease all purl 3 to purl 2 by purling together the 2 first stitches in every purl section = 52-56 stitches. Continue rib with knit 2/purl 2 until the piece measures 5-6 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 7-11 stitches evenly on round = 45 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 14 cm start increasing to thumb gusset. Increase 1 stitch on each side of the next to last stitch on the round (i.e. on the inside of the hand) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way on each side of the increased stitches every 3rd round a total of 6-7 times = 13-15 thumb stitches and 57-59 stitches in total. When the piece measures 19-20 cm place the thumb stitches + 1 stitch on each side of these on 1 thread (= 15-17 stitches on the thread). Cast on 3 new stitches behind the thumb on the next round = 45 stitches on the needle. When the piece measures 23-24 cm, increase 11-15 stitches evenly on the next round = 56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 8 rounds rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The wrist warmer measures approx. 25-26 cm.

THUMB: 
The piece is worked in the round.
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and, in addition, knit up 5-7 stitches in the edge at the back of the thumb stitches = 20-24 stitches on the needle. Work 3 rounds stocking stitch. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 6 rounds rib (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. 

LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Work as for right, but increase for thumb on each side of the second stitch on the round (instead of the next to last).
© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Winter Serenity

Ania, Poland

Winter Serenity

Sasa, Germany

Winter Serenity

Lauranne, France

Winter Serenity

Raisa, Finland

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 180-35

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Comments / Questions (22)

country flag Bianka Buchholz wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den Maschenzunahmen. In der Anleitung steht: in jeder 2. bzw. 4. Reihe. Sind damit nur die Hinreihen gemeint?

07.01.2025 - 18:47

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Buchholz, wenn man in jeder 2. Reihe zunimmt, wird man in jeder Hinreihe zunehmen = 1 Hinreihe mit Zunahmen, 1 Rückreihe ohne. Wenn man in jeder 4. Reihe zunimmt, wird man in jeder 2. Hinreihe zunehmen = 1 Hinreihe mit Zunahmen, 3 Reihen (= 1 Rückreihe, 1 Hinreihe, 1 Rückreihe) ohne. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

08.01.2025 - 07:11

country flag Geri wrote:

Re bonjour Merci pour votre reponse mais je parlais des mitaines et pas du bonnet ( desolee j ai oublie de la preciser). Peut on donc tricoter les mitaines en aiguilles circulaires et si c est le cas de quelles longueur pour eviter de le faire en magic loop Merci d avance de votre aide Geri

05.11.2024 - 13:16

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Geri, les mitaines se tricotent en rond mais sur les aiguilles doubles pointes, si vous voulez utiliser une aiguille circulaire, vous devrez procéder en magic loop (cf lien précédent) avec une aiguille d'au moins 80 cm. Bon tricot!

05.11.2024 - 16:25

country flag Geri wrote:

Bonjour, Est il possible de tricoter ce modele avec des aiguilles circulaires ? Et si c est le cas quelle longueur suggérez vous. J ai essayé avec des aiguilles circulaires de 40 cm et c est impossible... Merci de votre aide Cordialement Geri

05.11.2024 - 10:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Geri, le bonnet se tricote en allers et retours, mais on peut fort probablement le tricoter en rond, il faudra juste adapter le point mousse (cf vidéo). Lorsque vous voulez utiliser une aiguille circulaire sur un ouvrage plus court que la longueur du câble, vous pouvez tricoter avec la technique du magic loop. Bon tricot!

05.11.2024 - 12:39

country flag Geeske wrote:

Goedendag, ik heb een vraag over de duimspie: Wat wordt bedoeld met de volgende tot de laatste? Alvast bedankt voor uw reactie. Met vriendelijke groet, Geeske

30.09.2024 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Geeske,

Er stond een vertaalfout in het patroon. Het moet de een na laatste steek zijn (in plaats van de volgende tot laatste steek). Als het goed is, is het nu aangepast in het online patroon.

19.10.2024 - 11:32

country flag Kirsten Boer wrote:

Bij het breien van de duim staat in het Nederlandse patroon "brei aan beide kanten van de volgende tot de laatste steek". Ik denk dat het een slechte vertaling is uit het Engels (next to last) oftewel eennalaatste. Op die manier klopt het patroon weer. Eerder werd er door Drops op een vraag hierover (gesteld door Sandra op 22 januari 2023) een fout antwoord gegeven. Het is goed om een en ander te herstellen in het patroon en in het antwoord aan Sandra

26.01.2024 - 22:06

country flag Marie-Claire wrote:

Bonjour, j’ai commencé ces mitaines et finalement j’aimerais aussi faire des moitiés de doigts, est-ce que je peux continuer un m’inspirant du modèle drops 86-4. Merci encore et bonne journée.

22.11.2023 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Claire, le nombre de mailles de chacune de ces mitaines est différent, il vous sera donc difficile de suivre les explications du 86-4, il vaudrait mieux vous baser sur un modèle de mitaines ou même de gants jersey (de même tension qu'ici) avec le même nombre de mailles pour la main. Bon tricot!

22.11.2023 - 16:18

country flag Marie-Claire wrote:

Bonjour, je suis à faire les mitaines et on dit monter 3 mailles au dessus du pouce. J’ai mis 15 mailles en attentes pour le pouce, tricoté les 42 m restantes et c’est là que je monte 3m ? …et comment je les monte? Merci beaucoup de m’éclairer.

06.11.2023 - 00:59

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marie-Claire, tout à fait, dans cette vidéo, on montre (time code 3:10 environ) comment monter les mailles au-dessus des mailles en attente (montez bien le nombre indiqué dans les explications ici, même s'il est différent de celui de la vidéo). Bon tricot!

06.11.2023 - 09:15

country flag Sandra wrote:

"Als het werk 14 cm meet, begin dan voor het meerderen van de duimspie. Meerder 1 steek op elke kant van de volgende tot de laatste steek op de naald (dus aan de binnenkant van de hand)" Het is mij niet duidelijk waar die steek juist gemeerderd moet worden. Graag wat meer uitleg.

22.01.2023 - 15:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Sandra,

Je meerdert 1 steek na de eerste steek en 1 steek voor de laatste steek.

22.01.2023 - 17:21

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buongiorno, è possibile lavorare il berretto in tondo su ferri circolari per evitare la cucitura?

04.08.2022 - 07:33

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta, se preferisce può lavorare il modello in tondo. Buon lavoro!

04.08.2022 - 12:21

country flag Bianka wrote:

Könnte ich bei der Mütze ein doppeltes Bündchen stricken oder würde sich der Fall dann zu sehr ändern? Danke Bianka

17.01.2021 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Bianka, wahrscheinlich können Sie ein doppeltes Bündchen hier stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.01.2021 - 09:46

Winter Serenity



The set consists of: Knitted hat with garter stitch and wrist warmers. The set is worked in DROPS Alpaca.

DROPS 180-35
DROPS Design: Pattern no z-807
Yarn group A
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For the whole set, there will be enough yarn with approx. 150 g in both sizes in DROPS Alpaca.
-----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Fits head size: approx. 54/56 - 58/60 cm
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
100 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 48 rows garter stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

WRIST WARMERS:
Sizes: S/M - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio (belongs to Yarn Group A)
50 g in both sizes in colour 7323, aqua grey

The piece can also be knitted with yarn from:
"Alternative yarn (Yarn group A)" – see the link below.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM – or the size needed to get 24 stitches and 32 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 2.5 MM for rib – or the size needed to get 26 stitches and 34 rows stocking stitch on 10 cm in width and 10 cm in height.
----------------------------------------------------------

INFORMATION FOR THE PATTERN:

RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth – for hat):
1 ridge = Knit 2 rows.

INCREASE TIP (for wrist warmers and hat):
All increases are made from the right side!
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on the next round/row knit the yarn overs twisted to prevent holes.

DECREASE TIP (for hat):
All decreases are made from the right side!
Decrease 1 stitch after the marker thread as follows: Knit 2 together.
----------------------------------------------------------

HAT:
The piece is worked back and forth on the needle and is sewn together mid back to finish. 
Loosely cast on 122-142 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) with needle size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 2) with 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – see description above, in each side.
When the piece measures 6 cm, change to needle size 3 mm and insert 5 marker threads in the piece from the right side as follows: Insert 1 marker thread after 1 stitch, the next 4 are inserted with 24-28 stitches between them, after the last marker thread, there are 25-29 stitches. Now continue working in garter stitch. On the next row from the right side, increase 1 stitch after all the marker threads (= 5 stitches increased) – read INCREASE TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Increase in this way every 2nd row 3 more times and then every 4th row a total of 7 times = 177-197 stitches. When the piece measures 11-12 cm from the rib decrease 1 stitch after each marker thread on the next row from the right side (= 5 stitches decreased) – read DECREASE TIP! Decrease in this way every 2nd row a total of 17-19 times = 92-102 stitches.
Work all stitches together 2 and 2 on each row from the right side a total of 3 times = 12-13 stitches. The hat measures approx. 25-26 cm.
Pull 1 thread through the remaining stitches and pull tight. Sew the hat together mid back inside 1 edge stitch.
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RIGHT WRIST WARMER: 
The piece is worked in the round with double pointed needles. 
Cast on 65-70 stitches with double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and Alpaca. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2/ purl 3). After 4 rounds rib, decrease all purl 3 to purl 2 by purling together the 2 first stitches in every purl section = 52-56 stitches. Continue rib with knit 2/purl 2 until the piece measures 5-6 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 7-11 stitches evenly on round = 45 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work stocking stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 14 cm start increasing to thumb gusset. Increase 1 stitch on each side of the next to last stitch on the round (i.e. on the inside of the hand) – READ INCREASE TIP! Increase in this way on each side of the increased stitches every 3rd round a total of 6-7 times = 13-15 thumb stitches and 57-59 stitches in total. When the piece measures 19-20 cm place the thumb stitches + 1 stitch on each side of these on 1 thread (= 15-17 stitches on the thread). Cast on 3 new stitches behind the thumb on the next round = 45 stitches on the needle. When the piece measures 23-24 cm, increase 11-15 stitches evenly on the next round = 56-60 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm. Work 8 rounds rib in the round (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The wrist warmer measures approx. 25-26 cm.

THUMB: 
The piece is worked in the round.
Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 3 mm and, in addition, knit up 5-7 stitches in the edge at the back of the thumb stitches = 20-24 stitches on the needle. Work 3 rounds stocking stitch. Change to double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work 6 rounds rib (= knit 1/ purl 1). Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. 

LEFT WRIST WARMER:
Work as for right, but increase for thumb on each side of the second stitch on the round (instead of the next to last).

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