DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide |
24.00 RON /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Andrele website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Melody uni colour 71% Alpaca, 25% Wool, 4% Polyamide 24.00 RON /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Andrele website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 5 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 5, K 5 from cable needle | |
= slip 7 sts on cable needle behind piece, K 7, K 7 from cable needle | |
= slip 7 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 7, K 7 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
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Knitted shoulder piece in DROPS Melody with cables, worked sideways. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS Extra 0-1352 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve): Inc 1 st on each side of A.1 mid under sleeve. Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves): Dec 1 st on each side of A.1 mid under sleeve. Dec as follows before A.1: Beg 2 sts before A.1 and K 2 tog. Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. SHORT ROWS: Beg on first row from WS and work as before over the first 60-62-64-68 sts, hold yarn at the front of piece (i.e. towards you). Slip 1 st as if to K, place yarn on the back of piece between sts on right and left needle, pass the slipped st back on left needle, place yarn to the front of piece again, turn piece (a loop is formed around the turning st), work back from RS as before. Turn piece, work as before over the first 50-52-54-58 sts, work short rows as explained above, turn and work back from RS as before. Continue back and forth over 10 sts less on every turn until 10-12-14-18 sts remain on row, turn and work back and forth the same way over the last sts. Now, work short rows reversed, ie: work over 10 sts more on every turn, until you have worked over the first 60-62-64-68 sts again. AT THE SAME TIME: When working over a turning st, work as follows (from WS): Work as before until turning st. Work the turning st P twisted, insert left needle from below and up into loop around turning st, slip loop on left needle and P 2 twisted tog, continue to work as before. ---------------------------------------------------------- SHOULDER PIECE: Worked sideways from arm to arm. Work sleeve in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed, work body back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 36-38-40-44 sts on double pointed needles size 7 mm with Melody. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Work next round as follows: Work 2 sts in each of the first 5-5-7-7 sts on round, K until 5-5-7-7 sts remain and work 2 sts in each of the last 5-5-7-7 sts on round = 46-48-54-58 sts. Switch to double pointed needle size 8 mm and K 1 round but finish when 10-10-14-14 sts remain on round - now round beg here. Work A.1 over the first 20-20-28-28 sts (choose diagram for correct size) and stocking st over the remaining sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm, inc 1 st on each side of A.1 - READ INCREASE TIP (= 2 sts inc). Inc like this every 1½ cm 12 times in total in all sizes = 70-72-78-82 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 24-23-23-22 cm, divide piece in the middle of A.1 and work piece back and forth on circular needle as follows: (1st row = RS): Work A.2 over the first 10-10-14-14 sts (choose diagram for correct size), work in stocking st until 10-10-14-14 sts remain and finish with A.3. Continue like this until piece measures 55-57-59-61 cm - insert 1 marker (half way in piece). Now work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above, to give the garment more width at the back. After short rows work back and forth as before over all sts. When piece measures 31-34-36-39 cm from marker (measured at the shortest, i.e. do not measure over short rows – and adjust after one whole repetition of A.2/A.3 vertically), insert 1 new marker – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Now work in the round again over all sts (continue A.1 over the middle 20-20-28-28 sts as before and round beg before A.1). When piece measures 3½-2½-2½-1½ cm from marker, dec 1 st on each side of A.1 – READ DECREASE TIP (= 2 sts dec). Dec like this every 1½ cm 12 times in total = 46-48-54-58 sts (switch to double pointed needles when dec). When piece measures 20-19-19-18 cm from marker (dec should be finished), work all sts in cable K tog 2 by 2 = 36-38-40-44 sts remain on needle. Switch to double pointed needles size 7 mm, work 3 ridges and cast off. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (9)
Anna wrote:
Witam. Chciałam zapytać o wzór warkocza w momencie przerabiania rzędów skróconych(razem z powrotnymi rzędami jest ich 22- więc jeżeli ostatni rząd przed rzędami skróconymi przerabiam motywem warkocza- to na końcu rzędów skróconych warkocz wypada mi o jeden rząd wcześniej niż w pełnych rzędach). Pytanie dotyczy rozmiaru S
06.12.2023 - 17:13DROPS Design answered:
Witaj Anno, dokładnie. Ta różnica nie będzie widoczna. Pozdrawiamy!
07.12.2023 - 15:20Enrica wrote:
Non ho trovato la sezione in cui viene spiegato per dare al capo più larghezza sul dietro.
15.10.2023 - 08:54DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Enrica, può trovare la sezione a ferri accorciati all'inizio del lavoro. Buon lavoro!
19.10.2023 - 23:31Tone Kurås wrote:
Når man skal gjøre forkortede pinner motsatt vei, dvs. starte med å strikke 10 m så vende, og gradvis øke til 60 m, skal man da også vende på samme måte som tidligere, dvs. med løkke rundt vendemaske eller skal man bare snu og strikke rett tilbake?
01.08.2022 - 14:03DROPS Design answered:
Hei Tone, Ja, fortsette å vende på samme måten, slik at det ikke blir hull på enden av alle forkortede pinner. God fornøyelse!
02.08.2022 - 06:55Christiane wrote:
Après les rangs raccourcis, les torsades ne se croisent plus sur le même rang, est-ce normal ?
04.05.2019 - 13:19DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christiane, (edit réponse) - pouvez-vous nous indiquer la taille que vous tricotez? les torsades devraient tomber juste. Merci!
06.05.2019 - 09:57Maria wrote:
In short rows after the row of 10 sts should I cintinue short rows increasing by ten till 60 sts or make again the whole rows?
20.08.2018 - 10:50DROPS Design answered:
Hi Maria, Once you have 10 stitches left on the row, the short rows are finished. You then continue by working complete rows. Happy knitting!
21.08.2018 - 07:25Marie wrote:
J'ai tricoté les rangs raccourcis comme expliqué mais alors le croisement des torsades ne se fait plus sur le même rang. Comment faire alors lorsqu'elles vont se rejoindre pour l'autre manche ?
18.03.2018 - 16:50Marie wrote:
Bonjour, pour les rangs raccourcis, il faut diminuer 10 m à chaque fois jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 10 m donc 6 rangs aller-retour en rangs raccourcis. Ne faut-il pas continuer en ajoutant 10 m à chaque fois pour la symétrie du tricot du dos ?
14.03.2018 - 09:13Natascha Eijkmans wrote:
Ik ben na de opzet en breien van de ribbelpatroon het spoor al bijster. Hier zit volgens mij een fout in. Ik weet dat ik zou moeten bijmaken, maar dat staat er nergens. Wel dat ik voor ..... en achter twee steken moet breien, maar het zit op een rondbreinaald ? Daarbij kan ik ook niet terugvinden dat ik de verkorte toer 2x zou moeten maken, wat ik wel verwacht daar het patroon opgesplitst is. Dus een keer op en een keer af, toch?
19.01.2017 - 14:17Claire Moxon-Waltz wrote:
I think that there is an error in the chart A-1 for sizes XXL and XXXL. The number of stitches shown across the bottom of the chart reads "20" but there are 28 stitches in the chart, and 28 is correct according to the written instructions. I think that the number "20" should just be changed to "28."
04.01.2017 - 17:20