Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (UK/cm)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= make 1 yarn over right needle, slip 1 stitch onto the right needle as if to purl | |
= yarn over and stitch knitted together | |
= yarn over and stitch purled together | |
= purl | |
= purl 2 together | |
= work 5 stitches in stitch and yarn-over as follows: Knit together stitch and yarn over but do not slip them from the needle, * make 1 yarn over right needle and knit stitch and yarn over together 1 more time without slipping them from the needle *, work from *-* a total of 2 times, then slip the stitch and yarn over off the left needle = 5 stitches (= 4 stitches increased) |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Early Nap Pants |
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Knitted trousers for babies in DROPS Baby Merino. The piece is worked top down with English ribs. Sizes: Premature – 4 years.
DROPS Baby 36-5 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). CASTING-OFF TIP: To avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as casting off and the yarn overs are cast off as normal stitches. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- TROUSERS – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. The round starts mid-back. TROUSERS: Cast on (132) 144-156-180-192 (204-216) stitches with circular needle size 2 mm and Baby Merino. Work rib (= knit 1, purl 2) in the round for 4 cm, then work an elevation at the back as follows: Work (32) 35-38-44-47 (50-53) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (64) 70-76-88-94 (100-106) stitches back in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (58) 64-70-82-88 (94-100) stitches in rib, turn, tighten the strand and work (52) 58-64-76-82 (88-94) stitches back in rib. Continue like this, working 6 stitches less every time you turn and until you have worked over a total of (28) 34-40-40-46 (52-58) stitches. Now continue in the round as follows from the right side: Change to circular needle size 2.5 mm and work A.1 over all stitches. When the first round has been worked there are (88) 96-104-120-128 (136-144) stitches on the needle. Continue in the round with English rib according to A.1a. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures approx. (12) 14-15-16-17 (18-19) cm mid-front (adjust so the next round is knitted), work as follows: Work A.2 (= 2 stitches), A.1a over the next (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before, A.2 over 2 stitches (= mid-front), A.1a over the last (42) 46-50-58-62 (66-70) stitches as before. When A.2 has been worked 1 time in height there are (120) 128-136-152-176 (184-192) stitches on the needle. When the piece measures (15) 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm (increases should have finished), cast off (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches mid-front and mid-back. Each leg is finished separately; place the stitches for the one leg on 1 thread. LEG: = (48) 52-56-64-72 (76-80) stitches. Divide the stitches onto 4 double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and continue A.1a in the round. When the leg measures approx. (9) 11-12-15-18 (23-28) cm (or to desired length; there are (4) 6-8-8-8 (8-8) cm left), change to double pointed needles size 2 mm and continue in the round with rib, with knit over knit and purl over purl (on the first round work the yarn-overs together with their stitches). When the leg measures (13) 17-20-23-26 (31-36) cm from the division, cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl – read CASTING-OFF TIP. Place the stitches from the thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and work in the same way as the first leg. ASSEMBLY: Sew together the (12) 12-12-12-16 (16-16) stitches cast off front and back between the legs. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogues and 11624 patterns translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (58)
Denise Gault wrote:
So many things to say. Firstly you have a wonderful set of patterns free to use for all online. I use your yarn exclusively mainly for this resource. But this pattern has major flaws and obviously needs complete revision, just reading the numbers of comments makes this obvious!This series of unhelpful answers is not helpful either. Just repeating the same thing to each person when you need to rewrite your pattern. Making the customer feel frustration.
03.10.2024 - 10:27Nancy wrote:
Ik heb net de verhoging op de achterkant van het broekje gebreid tot ik tot 34 st.over had ,dit was aan de averechtse kant . Er staat ga nu verder in de ronde aan de goede kant met nld 2,5 en brei A.1 over alle steken .ik brei met naalden zonder kop . Hoe maak ik die 1 ste omslag op een nieuwe naald ?. Mijn eerste steek is een av. steek.moet ik mijn draad dan volledig rond de naald draaien ? en nadien bij de herhalingen een halve?
08.11.2023 - 23:29DROPS Design answered:
Dag Nancy,
Ja, in dat geval sla je de draad helemaal om de naald. Je kunt de draad ietsje strakker aantrekken dan dat je normaal doet met het maken van een omslag.
15.11.2023 - 14:19Julie Ingemansson wrote:
Jeg strikker størrelse 6/9 mdr. Jeg er netop færdig med udtagningerne (diagram A.2). Nu står der “Når arbejdet måler 21 cm (udtagningerne skal nu være afsluttet), lukkes der…”. Inden udtagningerne står der, at man skal måle “midt foran”, men efter udtagningerne står der ikke noget om, hvor man skal måle, og der er stor forskel på, om man måler midt foran eller midt bagpå. Så hvor på arbejdet skal det måles: Midt foran eller midt bagpå?
18.10.2023 - 13:08DROPS Design answered:
Hei Julie. Mål fra samme pundt som sist, midt foran. mvh DROPS Design
23.10.2023 - 14:22Kirsten Merrild wrote:
Jeg har slået 144 m op og følger opskriften så pludselig efter første p. patent påstås det så, at der kun er 96 m i omgangen, men så vidt jeg kan se, har der ikke været indtagninger? Så jeg tror, der er fejl i opskriften
30.01.2023 - 19:14DROPS Design answered:
Hej Kirsten, du tager ind ifølge A.1. Du ser at de 3 m på første pind i A.1 strikkes sammen til 2 masker ifølge diagrammet :)
31.01.2023 - 11:44Sandra wrote:
Hei! På første omgang diagram A.1 skal man lage 1 kast om høyre pinne, løfte 1 maske løs over på høyre pinne som om den skulle strikkes vrang og der etter strikke 2 masker vrang sammen? Og fortsette dette ut pinnen? Men hvordan har det seg att det blir mindre masker når man øker med ett kast for hver felling?
04.11.2022 - 19:56DROPS Design answered:
Hei Sandra. Når du starter på diagram A.1 starter du også med patentstrikk. Ved patentstrikk telles ikke kastet som en egen maske , kastet strikkes sammen med masken som ble løftet over på neste omgang (altså kastet er ingen økning). Siden patetstrikk er veldig tøyelig, så må det felles mange masker etter vrangborden og i denne oppskriften felles det 1 maske ved å strikke 2 masker sammen hver gang A.1 strikkes. Patentstrikk er en strikketeknikk der det strikkes med doble masker for å få tydelige, tykke striper i arbeidet – likt en vrangbord. Du kan lese mer om patentstrikk under Tips&Hjelp / DROPS Leksjoner / Teknikker / Patentstrikk – en oversikt. mvh DROPS Design
07.11.2022 - 10:36Emmi wrote:
I am wondering the same thing as Ida from Sweden last year. How does the stitches decrease at the first line of A1 as you make one, move one and then knit 2 together? So 3 stitches become 3 stitches.. but the amount of stitches should go down from 156 to 104
09.10.2022 - 09:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Emmi, in the first line of the A.1 you decrease 1 stitch, since you are knitting 2 stitches together (you see in the chart that you go from working three stitches in each repeat to working 2 stitches). Since you repeat A.1 52 times in the round (for your size), you decrease 52 stitches (156-52 = 104 stitches). The yarn over belongs to the English rib and counts as a single stitch alongside the previous stitch, so it doesn't add to the amount of stitches in the round and is worked together with their corresponding stitch in the next round. Happy knitting!
09.10.2022 - 19:58Sarah wrote:
Vilket sticknummer är menat att matcha den angivna stickfastheten? Nr 2 eller nr 2,5?
03.05.2022 - 22:57DROPS Design answered:
Hej Sarah, vi har strikket bukserne på pind 2,5 :)
04.05.2022 - 09:57Laura Christensen wrote:
Jeg har lidt problemer med at forstå sidste del, inden aflukningen til benene. Jeg forstår, jeg skal lave en blanding af A.1a og A.2 over en retomgang. Efter det skal jeg så strikke A.2, indtil arbejdet måler 17 cm, hvor jeg så skal lukke af til ben? Hvad skal jeg helt præcist gøre mellem den ene "blandings" ret pind og aflukning?
11.04.2022 - 14:31DROPS Design answered:
Hei Laura. Du strikker A.1a og A.2 til du har strikket A.2 1 gang i høyden (A.1a er da strikket 4 ganger i høyden). Altså, du strikker A.2 2 ganger på omgangen, foran og bak, mens A.1a strikkes over alle maskene i hver "side". Når arbeidet måler 17 cm og økningene er ferdig, felles det 12 masker midt foran og midt bak og nå strikkes hvert ben for seg selv. mvh DROPS Design
19.04.2022 - 10:23Sandra wrote:
Liebes Drops/Garnstudio Team, bei meiner Maschenprobe zur Early Nap Pants habe ich direkt eine Rundnadel mit Nadelstärke 3,0 gewählt, da ich grundsätzlich sehr fest stricke. Bei meiner Probe kamen nun 34 Reihen (laut Angabe 46 Reihen) und 29 Maschen (laut Angabe 24 Maschen) heraus. Somit habe ich weniger Reihen als angegeben benötigt, aber mehr Maschen als angegeben. Sollte ich meine Nadelstärke nun verkleinern oder vergrößern? Vielen Dank schon im voraus!
04.04.2022 - 20:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Sandra, am besten versuchen Sie Ihre Maschenprobe zu waschen/spannen oder mit einer anderen Nadeln zu stricken, damit Sie die genaue Maschenanzahl in der Breite haben; es wird viel einfacher, sonnst sollen Sie die ganze Anleitung neu umrechnen. Hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
05.04.2022 - 09:36Sanna wrote:
Olen yrittänyt lukea piirrosohjetta, mutta en ymmärrä sitä millään. A.1a 1.kerros ; pitäisi neuloa langankierto ja silmukka nurin yhteen , mutta ei 1. kierroksella voi olla vielä langankiertoa. Voisitteko ystävällisesti kertoa miten ohje etenee
20.02.2022 - 16:23DROPS Design answered:
Aluksi neulotaan piirroksen A.1 ensimmäinen kerros (tällä kerroksella tehdään langankiertoja. Tämän jälkeen neulotaan piirroksen A.1a mallikerta.
22.03.2022 - 17:01