DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 2.40 £ /50g

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Forest Mystery

Knitted jumper in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, lace pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 243-11

#forestmysterysweater

DROPS Design: Pattern li-165
Yarn group B
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SIZES:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group B)
600-650-700-800-850-1000 g colour 7810, khaki

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need 80 cm circular needle in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
21 stitches in width and 28 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE:
Increase to the left AFTER A.1 or 3 stitches by neck:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and knit stitch in back loop.
Increase to the right BEFORE A.2 or 3 stitches by neck:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and knit stitch in front loop.

INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE:
Increase to the left AFTER A.2
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from behind and purl stitch in front loop.
Increase to the right BEFORE A.1:
Use left needle to pick up thread between 2 stitches from row below, pick up thread from front and purl stitch in back loop.

GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker-thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker-thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker-thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knit-wise, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The top of the back piece is worked back and forth until the armholes are finished. Stitches are knitted up along each back shoulder for the front piece, stitches are increased for the neck and the front piece is worked back and forth until the armholes are finished.
The 2 pieces are joined and the body worked in the round as far as the split in each side. Stitches are knitted up around the armholes and the sleeves worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. The neck is worked in the round to finish.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 39-39-43-43-47-47 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and DROPS Lima.
Purl 1 row from the wrong side.
Work as follows from the right side: A.1, 15-15-19-19-23-23 stocking stitches, A.2.
AT THE SAME TIME increase AFTER A.1 (from the right side) and BEFORE A.2 – read INCREASE TIP FROM RIGHT SIDE.
On the next row (wrong side) increase after A.2 and before A.1 – read INCREASE TIP FROM WRONG SIDE.
Continue increasing from both the right and wrong side a total of 34-38-40-44-46-50 times. After the last increase there are 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, A.1 and A.2 on each side. When you have worked 4 rows, insert 1 marker in each side. Continue the pattern until the piece measures 15-16-16-17-18-19 cm from the marker. Cut the strand, place the stitches on a thread or another needle, and knit the front piece as explained below.

FRONT PIECE:
Start on the left shoulder (when the garment is worn) – see sketch.
Knit up 34-38-40-44-46-50 stitches inside 1 stitch along the left shoulder on back piece (knit up evenly between the neck and the marker in the side). Purl 1 row from the wrong side then work as follows from the right side: Work stocking stitch until there are 12 stitches left, A.2. When the piece measures 7 cm from the knitted-up stitches, increase for the neck at the beginning of each row from the right side as above, increasing after 3 stitches (increase only from right side). Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 38-42-44-48-50-54 stitches. Purl back from the wrong side, cut the strand and place the stitches on a thread or another needle. Work the right front shoulder as follows:

Knit up 34-38-40-44-46-50 stitches inside 1 stitch along the back right shoulder (knit up evenly between the marker in the side and the neck). Purl 1 row from the wrong side, then work as follows from the right side: Work A.1, then stocking stitch to the end of the row. When the piece measures 7 cm from the knitted-up stitches, increase for the neck at the end of each row from the right side as above, increasing before 3 stitches (increase only from right side). Increase 1 stitch 4 times = 38-42-44-48-50-54 stitches. Purl back from the wrong side.
Work next row from the right side as follows: Work as before over the 38-42-44-48-50-54 stitches on the right front shoulder, cast on 31-31-35-35-39-39 stitches for the neck, work as before over the 38-42-44-48-50-54 stitches from the front left shoulder = 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch and pattern back and forth until the front piece measures 25-26-28-29-30-31 cm, finishing after a row from the wrong side. Now join the front and back pieces for the body.

BODY:
Work the 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches from the front piece, cast on 6-6-10-10-14-18 stitches (under the sleeve), work the 107-115-123-131-139-147 stitches from the back piece, cast on 6-6-10-10-14-18 stitches = 226-242-266-282-306-330 stitches. Continue in the round, with stocking stitch, A.1 and A.2 until the piece measures approx. 44-46-48-50-52-54 cm, measured from the top of the shoulder (finish after a repeat of A.1/A.2 in height). Place the last 113-121-133-141-153-165 stitches on a thread for the back piece and work the front piece back and forth as follows:

Change to circular needle size 3 mm, work 2 GARTER STITCHES – read description above, knit 0-0-2-2-0-2, purl 2-2-2-2-2-2, knit 2-2-2-2-2-2, purl 0-0-0-0-2-2, knit 0-0-0-0-2-2, A.3, work stocking stitch over the next 87-95-103-111-119-127 stitches and increase 47-51-55-59-63-71 stitches evenly spaced (= 134-146-158-170-182-198 stitches after increases), A.3, knit 0-0-0-0-2-2, purl 0-0-0-0-2-2, knit 2-2-2-2-2-2, purl 2-2-2-2-2-2, knit 0-0-2-2-0-2 and 2 garter stitches = 160-172-188-200-216-236 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side:
2 garter stitches, purl 0-0-2-2-0-2, knit 2-2-2-2-2-2, purl 2-2-2-2-2-2, knit 0-0-0-0-2-2, purl 0-0-0-0-2-2, A.3, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 15-15-17-17-19-21 stitches left, purl 2, A.3, purl 0-0-0-0-2-2, knit 0-0-0-0-2-2, purl 2-2-2-2-2-2, knit 2-2-2-2-2-2, purl 0-0-2-2-0-2 and 2 garter stitches. Continue this rib for 16 cm. Cast off.

Work the back piece in the same way.

LEFT SLEEVE:
Using circular needle size 4 mm, knit up from the right side 53-55-59-61-63-65 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the front piece to the shoulder, then 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches from the shoulder and down the back piece = 85-89-93-97-101-105 stitches.
Insert 1 marker in the middle of the stitches picked up. Work now back and forth in stocking stitch with short rows for the sleeve cap, to gives a better shape to the sleeve.

1st row (from wrong side): work to 18 stitches after marker, turn.
2nd row (from right side): work to 18 stitches after marker, turn.
3rd row (from wrong side): work to 22 stitches after marker, turn.
4th row (from right side): work to 22 stitches after marker, turn.
5th row (from wrong side): work to 26 stitches after marker, turn.
6th row (from right side): work to 26 stitches after marker, turn.
7th row (from wrong side): work to the beginning of the row.

Work stocking stitch back and forth until sleeve measures 4-4-5-5-6-7 cm, measure from where the stitches were picked up (all length are measured mid on top of sleeve).
Now join the sleeve and continue in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker-thread at the beginning of the round (mid-under sleeve). Allow the thread to follow your work onwards. Start at the marker-thread and work stocking stitch. When the sleeve measures 6-6-7-7-8-9 cm, decrease 2 stitches under the sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½--1½-1½-1 cm a total of 12-13-14-15-16-17 times = 61-63-65-67-69-71 stitches.
Continue working until the sleeve measures 37-36-34-34-32-30 cm from the knitted-up stitches. There is approx. 10 cm left; try the jumper on and work to desired length before the rib. Knit 1 round and increase 20-18-16-23-21-19 stitches evenly spaced = 81-81-81-90-90-90 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3 mm. Work A.4 for 10 cm. Cast off a little loosely. The sleeve measures approx. 48-47-46-46-45-44 cm.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Work the other sleeve in the same way but, when knitting up stitches, knit up 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches from the bottom of the armhole and up the back piece, then 53-55-59-61-63-65 stitches from the shoulder down the front piece. Sew together the openings under each sleeve – see sketch.

NECK:
Start on one shoulder and knit up from the right side (inside 1 stitch) 104 to 120 stitches, using short circular needle size 3 mm. The stitch count must be divisible by 4. Work rib in the round (knit 2, purl 2) for 9 cm. Cast off. If you want a double neck, fold the neck to the inside and fasten with a couple of stitches by each shoulder.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 22.09.2023
A sleeve cap has been added on top of sleeves.

Updated online: 14.12.2023
Correction ribbing edge at the bottom of body.

Diagram

	= knit from right side, purl from wrong side
	= purl from right side, knit from wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is worked as shown in diagram on the next row/round to leave a hole
	= slip 1 stitch, work 2 stitches, pass the slipped stitch over (1 stitch decreased)
	= no stitch as it was decreased earlier; go straight to next symbol in diagram
	= bottom of armhole sewn together: b to B
	= stitches for left front shoulder (d) knitted up along left back shoulder (D), stitches for right front shoulder (e), knitted up along right back shoulder (E)
	= knitting direction

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Forest Mystery

Emmanuelle, France

Comments / Questions (37)

Nicole wrote:

Bonjour, dans la partie Dos&Devant, 2eme chapitre, je ne comprends pas « tricoter 0-0-2-2-0-2 mailles endroit « A quoi correspondent les 0 ? Comment tricote t on ces mailles ?

22.10.2024 - 16:26

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, quand il y a un "0", ces indications ne concernent pas la taille, autrement dit, vous passez directement à l'indication suivante, soit 2 mailles envers après les 2 m point mousse dans les tailles S, M et XXL. Bon tricot!

22.10.2024 - 16:50

Barbara wrote:

What cast off technique do you suggest for the front and back pieces? i tried the sewn cast off but it wrinkles because of the ribbing. thank you

12.10.2024 - 17:28

Dear Barbara, here you can find a few methods to cast off in rib stitch: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=1686&lang=en. Happy knitting!

13.10.2024 - 23:20

Peggy M wrote:

I'm confused as to where I start the charts. Do I read them bottom to top? And do I alternate from right to left on right side rows and left to right on wrong side rows? The down arrow =knitting direction has me confused.

21.09.2024 - 05:59

Dear Peggy, the charts are read from bottom to top and then from right to left on right side rows and from left to right on wrong side rows. The knitting direction arrows are for the schematic below the charts. You can find more information about charts here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=68&cid=19. Happy knitting!

23.09.2024 - 00:44

Paulette Pol wrote:

XL, devant : après avoir monté les 35 mailles pour l'encolure, il faut travailler pendant 29 cm. J'ai du mal à comprendre à partir de quoi on doit mesurer ces 29 cm. Sur la vidéo, vous mettez un marqueur avant les petites augmentations de l'épaule pour l'encolure. Est-ce à partir de ce marqueur-là que l'on doit mesurer? C'est ce qu'il me semble, mais j'ai de gros doutes. Merci de me corriger si je me trompe.

11.08.2024 - 04:41

Bonjour Mme Pol, ces 29 cm sont mesurées à partir des mailles relevées pour l'épaule, retrouvez cette mesure dans cette leçon, 6ème photo. Bon tricot!

12.08.2024 - 08:09

Anita wrote:

Bij het patroon forrest mystery begrijp ik de uitleg niet . Wat wordt er bedoeld met de cijfers 0 0 2 2 0 2 kan u dit mij uitleggen?

05.07.2024 - 14:05

Dag Anita,

Het eerste cijfer geldt voor de eerste maat, het tweede cijfer voor de volgende maat, enzovoort. Als er een nul staat in de maat die breit kun je dus die informatie overslaan en verder gaan met de volgende informatie in de beschrijving.

07.07.2024 - 09:30

Birgit Jessen wrote:

Hallo! Ich bin jetzt da wo rechtes und linkes Vorderteil zusammen auf eine Nadel kommen (mit Halsausschnitt in der Mitte), da heißt es in der Anleitung: Dann glatt rechts und im Muster wie zuvor in Hin- und Rück-Reihen stricken. In dieser Weise weiterarbeiten, bis die Arbeit eine Länge von 25-26-28-29-30-31 cm hat, nach einer Rück-Reihe enden. Von wo werden die 26 cm (bei Größe M) gemessen? Vom Halsausschnitt? VG Birgit

04.05.2024 - 17:32

Liebe Frau Jessen, die 26 cm messen Sie an der Kante beim Armloch, vom Anfang der Schulter an; siehe auch 14. Foto bei dieser Lektion (15 cm in der Lektion). Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

06.05.2024 - 08:12

Jaenna wrote:

Ich verstehe nicht wo genau die Markierung am Ärmel angebracht werden soll. In der Anleitung steht „1 Markierer in der mittleren der aufgefassten Masche anbringen“ Soll das heißen oben an der Schulter mittig aller aufgefassten Maschen ? Vielen Dank

04.04.2024 - 19:12

Liebe Janna, ja genau, dh in der mittleren Maschen von den 85-89-93-97-101-105 Maschen die aufgefassen wurde, die Markierung wird ganz oben am Schulter sein. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

05.04.2024 - 08:05

Creations wrote:

I think the key for the chart is incorrect. The mock cable should be flanked by 2 reverse stockinette stitches each side and therefore the X in the key for the chart should read "purl on right side, knit on wrong side" Can you confirm please? Thanks

26.02.2024 - 09:43

That's the case, the x are for the reversed stocking stitch, so that there are P2 on each side of the mock cable, then depending of the diagram (eg where you will work the mock cables) you will have a different number of sts in stocking stitch on either side of these P2. Happy knitting!

26.02.2024 - 13:45

Liliane Kopp wrote:

Hej! Jag gör den minsta storleken S. Har nu kommit till framstycket och gjort halsringningen fram. Man ska sedan fortsätta tills \"arbetet mäter 25 cm\" och sedan sätta ihop fram- och bakstycket. Jag undrar varifrån man ska mäta, från axeln halsringningen eller vad? Verkar mest rimligt att man ska mäta från halsringningen, eftersom bakstyckets övre fläta på bilderna ligger bakom axeln. Men jag blir lite osäker, tacksam för hjälp!

07.02.2024 - 13:45

Hei Liliane. Ja, fra halsringningen :) mvh DROPS Design

16.02.2024 - 09:11

Emmanuelle wrote:

Bonjour, après les rangs raccourcis du haut de la manche, il est dit de continuer en aller-retour en commençant par un rang envers (dans la traduction française). Or le rang précédent (7) se faisant déjà sur l'envers, le suivant (8) ne devrait-il pas être logiquement un rang sur l'endroit ? Merci pour votre réponse.

25.01.2024 - 17:24

Bonjour Emmanuelle, c'est exact, après les rangs raccourcis, on continue en jersey, en commençant sur l'endroit, merci pour l'info, correction faite. Bon tricot!

26.01.2024 - 08:39

Forest Mystery

Knitted jumper in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, lace pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

European shoulder (backpiece)

European shoulder (front pieces)

European shoulder (pieces worked together)

European shoulder (sleeve)

European shoulder (neck)

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Forest Mystery

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Comments / Questions (37)

Forest Mystery

Knitted jumper in DROPS Lima. The piece is worked top down with European/diagonal shoulders, lace pattern and split in sides. Sizes S - XXXL.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Lima uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	2.40 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Lima mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca	2.50 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Lima uni colour 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 2.40 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Lima mix 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca 2.50 £ /50g Order