DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 4.80 £ /50g

Order

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 48.00£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Merry Santas

Knitted Christmas jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down, with round yoke and Santa pattern. Size XS – XXL. Theme: Christmas.

Highlight Size:

DROPS 228-48

#merrysantassweater

DROPS design: Pattern ai-341
Yarn group C or A + A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-300-350-350 g colour 04, medium grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 25, raspberry
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 01, off white
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 02, wheat
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour 31, black

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

INCREASE TIP (evenly):
To calculate how to increase evenly, use the total number of stitches on row (e.g. 80 stitches) and divide stitches by number of increases to be done (e.g. 16) = 5.
In this example increase by making 1 yarn over after every 5th stitch. On next round knit yarns over twisted to avoid holes.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. Choose diagram for your size. Work the entire pattern in stocking stitch.

KNITTING TIP:
To avoid the garment losing elasticity when working pattern, it is important not to tighten the strands on back side of piece. Switch to a higher needle number when working pattern if the pattern is somewhat tight.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

CAST-OFF TIP:
To avoid a tight cast-off edge when casting off, you may use a larger needle. If this still is too tight make 1 yarn over after approx. every 4th stitch while casting off (cast off yarn overs as stitches).

----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work neck edge and yoke in the round on circular needle from mid back, top down. Now divide yoke for body and sleeves. Work body in the round on circular needle, top down. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, top down.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 95-100-105-110-115-120 stitches on short circular needle size 4 mm with colour medium grey in DROPS Air. Knit 1 round. Work rib (knit 2/purl 3) for 4 cm. Now decrease 1 stitch in every purl section, decrease by purling 2 together = 76-80-84-88-92-96 stitches. Continue with rib = knit 2/purl 2. Work until rib measures 12 cm in total. Switch to a short circular needle size 5 mm.

YOKE:
Insert 1 marker at beginning of round, measure yoke from this marker! Knit 1 round while increasing 8-16-18-26-28-30 stitches evenly - read INCREASE TIP = 84-96-102-114-120-126 stitches. Now work according to diagram A.1 (= 14-16-17-19-20-21 repetitions of 6 stitches). NOTE: Choose diagram for your size and read KNITTING TIP! REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When entire A.1 has been worked vertically, there are 224-256-272-304-320-336 stitches on round. Knit 1 round with colour medium grey while increasing 8-0-0-0-4-8 stitches evenly = 232-256-272-304-324-344 stitches. Continue in medium grey and stocking stitch until piece measures approx. 20-22-23-25-27-29 cm from marker.

Now divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows:
Knit 34-38-40-44-49-53 (= half back piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve), knit 68-76-80-88-98-106 (= front piece), slip the next 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches on row (= in the side under sleeve) and knit the remaining 34-38-40-44-49-53 stitches (= half back piece). Finish body and sleeves separately. NOW MEASURE THE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
There are now 148-164-176-192-216-236 stitches on round. Continue with stocking stitch and colour medium grey. Work until piece measures approx. 27-27-27-27-27-27 cm from division (or desired length, approx. 4 cm remain until finished measurements). Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work rib = knit 2/purl 2 in the round. Work rib for 4 cm. Cast off loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl - read CAST-OFF TIP. Jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from shoulder and down.

SLEEVE:
Slip the 48-52-56-64-64-66 stitches from thread in one side of piece on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 5 mm and pick up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 new stitches cast on under sleeve = 54-58-64-72-74-78 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread mid under sleeve, i.e. in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-12 stitches that were cast on under sleeves. Move the marker thread upwards when working; it should be used for decrease mid under sleeve. Begin round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with medium grey. When sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 8-6-4-3-2½-2½ cm 5-6-8-11-11-12 times in total = 44-46-48-50-52-54 stitches. Work without decreases until sleeve measures 38-36-36-35-34-32 cm from division (approx. 4 cm remain before finished measurements, try the jumper on and work to desired length). Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider neck and longer yoke. Knit 1 round while increasing 4-2-4-2-4-2 stitches evenly = 48-48-52-52-56-56 stitches. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work rib in the round = knit 2/purl 2 for 4 cm. Cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - remember CAST-OFF TIP.
Sleeve measures approx. 42-40-40-39-38-36 cm from division. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
The neck edge can be folded and sewn into a double neck edge or use it as a high collar. If you want a double neck edge do the following: Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic.

KNOT:
Make a knot at the top of every Santa hat. Tie the knot around a stitch. Cut 2 lengths of colour off white. approx. 10 cm. Place strands together, use a needle and pull strands through the top off white stitch so that both yarn ends are on the right side of piece, on each side of stitch. Tie a knot, then tie another knot but in the opposite direction - see figure. Cut the yarn ends approx. ½ cm long. Repeat at the top of on each Santa hat.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 20.10.2021
New Yarn amount:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
250-300-300-300-350-350 g colour 04, medium grey

Diagram

	= medium grey
	= off white
	= raspberry
	= wheat
	= black
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, on next round knit yarn over twisted to avoid holes

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

There are 11 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #merrysantassweateror submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.
See more

Merry Santas

TripleLdeMag, France

Merry Santas

Doris, Germany

Merry Santas

Made By Maaike

Merry Santas

Claire

Merry Santas

Doris, Germany

Merry Santas

Maggie, United Kingdom

Merry Santas

Sofylo, France

Merry Santas

Andrea, Germany

Merry Santas

TripleLdeMag, France

Merry Santas

Doris, Germany

Merry Santas

Made By Maaike

Merry Santas

Claire

Merry Santas

Doris, Germany

Merry Santas

Maggie, United Kingdom

Merry Santas

Sofylo, France

Merry Santas

Andrea, Germany

Comments / Questions (21)

Lene wrote:

Har ingen kommentar

15.11.2024 - 20:34

Meg Reeves wrote:

I cannot make gauge with a US 8 needle for The Merry Santa’s sweater. I was able to get guauge with a US 10. Is this unusual? I ordered enough Drops Air for a size Medium. Am I going to have enough yarn to complete the size medium sweater using the larger 10 needle ? I have 6 balls of grey, 1 of off white and 1 ball of red. Yikes! Thanks for your guidance! Meg Reeves

04.11.2024 - 14:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Reeves, knitting tension is very individual, some people knit loosely while others work tightly; that's the reason why you have to adjust the needle size to get the recommended tension. Remember that the needle size in the pattern is always a suggestion. So if you tension is matching in both width and height, you should have the requested finished measurements with the given amount of yarn. Read more about tension here. Happy knitting!

05.11.2024 - 09:05

Linda wrote:

Hyper agréable à tricoter

31.10.2024 - 13:15

Maj Rasmussen wrote:

Æhm jeg læste forkert i opskriften. Alt er godt 😅

30.10.2024 - 15:59

Jeg strikker str M og er igang med diagram A.1. Jeg har (som opskriften angiver) 102 masker, men kan ikke få det til at passe med diagrammet, hvor jeg oplever at ‘mangle’ en maske. Hvad kan jeg gøre, da det jo vil forskyde hele mønsteret/diagrammet?

30.10.2024 - 15:36

Hej Maj, jo du starter med 6 masker ifølge diagrammet og strikker det 17 gange (6x17=102m). Sæt 1 mærke imellem hver rapport, så ser du tydeligt hvor du skal starte diagrammet :)

31.10.2024 - 08:51

Gitte Kastberg wrote:

Hejsa jeg har et spørgsmål til mønstret Jeg kan ikke helt forstå det der står med bærestykket det der står i parentes Skal jeg gentage det Jeg laver ekstra large skal jeg så gentage seks masker 20 gange for jeg kan ikke få mønster til at passe

12.10.2024 - 16:25

Hej Gitte. Ja det är riktigt, du ska gentage A.1 (= 6 masker) 20 ganger. 20 x 6= 120m. Mvh DROPS Design

14.10.2024 - 14:07

Amanda Holloway wrote:

Re Santa jumper. My nearest Drops stockist only has Nepal, Alaska, Lima and Charisma. The pattern states Air. Which of these weights are similar to Air?

02.01.2024 - 15:24

Hi Amanda, DROPS Air belongs to yarn group C. In the same group are also DROPS Alaska and DROPS Nepal, so you can use them instead of DROPS Air. See overview of DROPS Yarn Groups. Happy knitting!

03.01.2024 - 05:55

Lorraine wrote:

1 Please show me how to make Santa's eyes. I did see a tut somewhere but cannot find it now. 2 How can I embroider Santa's boots please? I did not knit them.

22.12.2023 - 14:09

Dear Lorraine, the Santa eyes and boots are worked according to the pattern in the yoke; you can see the chart after the pattern instructions. Here, you will use the fair-isle method to change colours, including the black colour for the eyes and boots. They aren't embroidered later, but worked alongside the rest of the piece. If you skipped over them when working the piece, you can use the following method of duplicate stitches to embroider the eyes and boots: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=40&lang=en. Happy knitting!

28.12.2023 - 19:44

Manuela García Osorio wrote:

Hola! Estoy tejiendo la talla XL, llegué hasta el ovalo negro. Es una sola repetición en una vuelta o son varias? No se cuantos puntos debe quedar al final. Gracias

21.08.2023 - 06:26

Yvonne Raczkowski wrote:

I am knitting Merry Santa in a small woman's size. I do not see how to increase the stitches in A1 pattern. I do see the black dots on the grid that are probably increases but I do not see by how many stiches in the pattern? If you could clarify that would be great. thanks Yvonne

07.04.2023 - 00:21

Dear Yvonne, the number of increased stitches on the round will depend on the number of repeats of A.1 on the round. The black oval or dot represents the yarn over for increases; each round of increases has one yarn over per repeat of A.1. Since, for size S, you have 16 repeats of A.1 on the round, you will increase 16 stitches on each round with increases. After finishing A.1, you should have 256 stitches in total (you have increased 160 stitches). Happy knitting!

08.04.2023 - 20:47

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool	4.80 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Air mix 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Air uni colour 65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool 4.80 £ /50g Order

Merry Santas

Knitted Christmas jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down, with round yoke and Santa pattern. Size XS – XXL. Theme: Christmas.

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 228-48

Comments / Questions (21)

Merry Santas

Knitted Christmas jumper in DROPS Air. Piece is knitted top down, with round yoke and Santa pattern. Size XS – XXL. Theme: Christmas.

Diagram explanations

Do you need help with this pattern?