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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= 1 ch | |
= 1 sc around st | |
= 1 sc in st | |
= 1 sc around ch-space, 3 ch | |
= 1 dc in st | |
= 1 dc around ch/ch-space | |
= 1 tr around st | |
= Work 2 dtr into 1 dtr as follows: Work 1 dtr but wait with last pull through = 2 sts on hook. Work 1 dtr more in same st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook. | |
= WORK 3 TR TOG - see explanation in pattern | |
= WORK 2 TR TOG - see explanation in pattern | |
= Work picot as follows: Work ch 2, 1 hdc in last dc worked | |
= work in this st | |
= beg round with ch 4, and finish round 1 sl st in 4th ch at beg of round | |
= beg round with ch 2, and finish round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch at beg of round | |
= beg round with ch 6, and finish round 1 sl st in 6th ch at beg of round | |
= this round is explained in pattern |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Light's Embrace |
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Crochet DROPS poncho with lace pattern, worked top down in ”Paris”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 169-4 |
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PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Diagrams A.1a and A.1b show how round beg and ends. CROCHET INFO: Beg every dc round with 3 ch (these ch do not replaces first dc). At the end of round work 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. NOTE: When working A.5 beg round with 3 ch. At the end of round work 1 dc in first st worked on round (i.e. st with the 3 ch in), then 1 sl st in 3rd ch at beg of round. WORK 2 TR TOG: Work 1 tr around ch-space below but wait with last pull through (= 2 loops on hook), skip 1 sc and work 1 tr around next ch-space but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook. WORK 3 TR TOG: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work 1 more tr but wait with last pull through (= 3 loops on hook), work 1 more tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all loops on hook. MESH PATTERN: ROUND 1: * Start with 1st row of A.5, work the 4 dc in first/next dc with marker, work (1 ch, ship 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc) until 1 dc remains before next marker, work 1 ch, skip next dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times more. There is now 4 repeats of A.5 on round. ROUND 2: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker, then work 1 dc in next dc, 1 ch, 1 dc around first ch-space, (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next ch-space) until 1 ch-space remains before next repeat of A.5, work 1 ch, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 3 times more. ROUND 3: * Work A.5 around first/next ch-space with marker, then work (1 ch, skip 1 dc, 1 dc around next ch-space) until next repeat of A.5, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 3 times more. ---------------------------------------------------------- PONCHO: Worked in the round, top down. First inc mid front, mid back and on each shoulder, then inc only mid front and mid back. Work 153-163-163 ch on hook size 4.5 mm/US 7 with Paris and form a ring with 1 sl st. Work 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO! Then work 1 dc in each of the next 3-1-1 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 24-26-26 more times on round = 128-136-136 dc + 3 ch on round. Now insert 4 markers from beg of round without working: Insert 1 marker in 1st dc on round (= mid back), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= shoulder), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= mid front), skip 31-33-33 dc, insert 1 marker in next dc (= shoulder), there are now 31-33-33 dc between last marker and beg of round. Now work MESH PATTERN - see explanation above. When 1st- 3rd round have been worked, repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-7- 8 rounds with mesh pattern have been worked - see diagram A.4a and A.4b to see how to work the whole inc in each side of A.5. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Piece measures approx. 8-9-10 cm / 3"-3½"-4''. Work next round as follows AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-8-8 dc evenly (= 0-4-4 dc dec on each side of mid back and mid front): *Work (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) around ch-space (= mid back on 1st repetition and mid front on 2nd repetition), then work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until next inc dc-group, work 3 dc around ch-space (= shoulder), work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until inc dc-group (mid front on 1st repetition and mid back on 2nd repetition)*, repeat from *-* 1 more time. There are now 117-125-133 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back (= 234-250-266 dc in total on round + 2 ch-space). Cut the yarn. NOTE: Then do not inc on each shoulder but only mid front and mid back on poncho. Work 1 sl st in 10th st from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a (= 8 dc) 13-14-15 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a 14-15-16 times in width, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. On 4th round in A.3a there are 133-141-149 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before (there is now room for 16-17-18 repetitions A.2a on each side of A.3a). On 10th round inc 8 dc evenly on each side of A.3a (= 16 dc in total on round) = 163-171-179 dc on each side of ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue with pattern as before, but now work A.1b over A.1a, A.2b over A.2a and A.3b over A.3a (there is now room for 19-20-21 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). On 4th round inc 3 dc evenly between every repetitions of A.3 (i.e. 6 dc in total on round) = 169-177-185 dc between each ch-space mid front and mid back. Continue pattern (there is now room for 21-22-23 repetitions A.2 on each side of A.3). When entire diagram has been worked vertically, piece measures 36-37-38 cm / 14 1/4"-14½"-15". Cut the yarn. Now work mesh pattern as at beg of piece. Beg in ch-space mid back, and work mesh pattern from 3rd round in mesh pattern. Repeat 2nd and 3rd round until 6-8-10 rounds in total have been worked (includes last round in A.2 and A.3). Work next round as follows: * Work (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) around ch-space (= mid back), then work 1 dc in every dc and 1 dc around every ch until next rep of A.5 *, repeat from *-* 1 more time = 193-209-225 dc between ch-space mid front and mid back. Cut the yarn. Now work pattern A.1a, A.2a and A.3a as follows: Work 1 sl st in 12th dc from ch-space mid back and work pattern as follows: Work A.1a (shows how round beg and end, does not replace first st), A.2a until 2 dc remain before ch-space mid front, A.3a (= inc mid front), continue with A.2a until 2 dc remain before ch-space mid back, A.3a (= inc mid back) and A.2a 1 time in all sizes. When 4th row has been worked vertically, poncho measures 49-52-54 cm / 19 1/4"-20½"-21 1/4". Fasten off. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (229)
Federica wrote:
Buongiorno. sto realizzando il poncho. tutto bene fino a 10° giro di a2a. al decimo giro eseguo gli 8 aumenti per lato e mi trovo 171 maglie alte invece di 163. con 171 maglie non ho solo 20 ripetizioni di a2b, di più. al 4° giro si chiede ulteriore aumento, ma io ho 44 picot per lato, quindi 176 m.a. al 4° a2b a3b più la alta di alzata giro. siete sicuri di avere tenuto conto degli aumenti di a3b nel conteggio delle m.a?
15.07.2024 - 16:09DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Federica, quale taglia sta lavorando? Buon lavoro!
20.07.2024 - 22:23Cris wrote:
Bonjour doit on suivre le texte avec les augmentations et diminution ou suivre les schémas suffit. Car là je suis au schéma 2b au 5 6e rang et j'ai déjà 10 cm de plus que les 35 cm après avoir fini le schéma. De plus il est trop large. Je crains de devoir tout recommencer. Ou je n aurai pas assez de boules. Merci
17.06.2024 - 19:35Cris wrote:
Bonjour doit on suivre le texte avec les augmentations et diminution ou suivre les schémas suffit. Car là je suis au schéma 2b au 5 6e rang et j'ai déjà 10 cm de plus que les 35 cm après avoir fini le schéma. De plus il est trop large. Je crains de devoir tout recommencer. Ou je n aurai pas assez de boules. Merci
17.06.2024 - 19:35DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Cris, il faut suivre les explications écrites qui indiquent comment crocher les différents points fantaisie/diagrammes mais aussi comment augmenter (ou diminuer à intervalles réguliers). Pensez à bien vérifier votre tension et à bien conserver la même tension tout du long pour conserver les bonnes mesures. Bon crochet!
18.06.2024 - 07:38Cris wrote:
Bonjour qui peut m expliquer comment faire l espèce de losange du modèle 2a? Merci
22.05.2024 - 17:14DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Cris, dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment crocheter les rangs 6 et 7 de A.2a et de A.3a. Bon crochet!
23.05.2024 - 08:15Cris wrote:
Bonjour, qui pourrait m aider a faire ce modèle? Je suis novice. Si je comprends bien je dois commencer par le schéma 5 à partir du bas et remonter? Puis appliquer le 4? Merci pour votre aide
17.05.2024 - 09:07DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Cris, suivez attentivement les explications écrites, vous commencez par crocheter au point de filet en augmentant en même temps, puis vous crochèterez les diagrammes dans l'ordre indiqué en commençant par les diagrammes A.1 à A.3. Cette leçon explique comment lire des diagrammes crochet et pourra vous aider. Bon crochet!
17.05.2024 - 12:17Jami R Dion wrote:
Im an experienced crocheter. I really want to make this pattern. The A5(?) Do i do 4dc in 1 stitch?? Pattern is showing chains in between but not written that way. What does first/next mean? Can't get past 2nd row!!!
22.02.2024 - 16:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Dion, correct, on first row you will crochet in the same stitch on previous round: 2 dc, 3 chains, 2 dc; in the written pattern when it's written: first/next, this means the first time you work from *-* you work in the first stitch but then to the end of the round you will work in the next stitch. Happy crocheting!
23.02.2024 - 08:01Gaspart Karine wrote:
Bonjour je suis en train de réaliser ce modèle et je ne comprends pas comment faire une augmentation . comment faire l'augmentation A3a le petit rond entre les deux brides. la légende du petit rond est un picot. pouvez vous m'aider à comprendre comment faire. je dois surement me trompée. J'ai plus l'habitude de faire une bride supplémentaire pour faire une augmentation et non un picot. pouvez vous m'aider s'il vous plait cordialement. karine
24.01.2024 - 10:37DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Gaspart, lorsque vous devez augmenter à intervalles réguliers, crochetez simplement 2 brides dans la même maille pour 1 augmentation. Le picot de A.2/A.3 se crochète ainsi entre 2 brides: 1 bride dans la maille indiquée, puis 2 ml, 1 demi-bride dans la bride, et terminez par 1 bride dans la même maille que la bride précédente. Ce picot n'est pas une augmentation, au tour suivant, vous crochetez des mailles en l'air au-dessus des 3 brides avec le picot ainsi: 1 ms dans la maille en l'air avant ce groupe de 3 brides avec picot, les mailles en l'air et 1 ms dans la maille en l'air après ce groupe. Bon crochet!
25.01.2024 - 08:04Bettina wrote:
Hallo und wie muss ich in der 2 Runde A2a mit den picco häckeln . Bei mir sind 4 stb vor der luftmaschenbogen nich zwei
30.03.2023 - 12:10DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bettina, bei der 1. Reihe in A.2a (die mit dem Sternchen zählt nicht als 1.) häkeln Sie so: *1 Stäbchen überspringen, in das nächste Stb häkeln Sie: 2 Stb, 1 Pikot, 1 Stb, dann 1 Luftmasche, 3 Stb übersrpingen, in das nächste Stb häkeln Sie: 2 Stb, 1 Pikot, 1 Stb, dann 1 Luftmasche, 2 Stb überspringen*, und von *bis* wiederholen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
11.04.2023 - 09:43Bettina wrote:
Ich muss aber erst faden wegschneiden nach der Reihe mit dem Stäbchen und luftmaschenreihe
28.03.2023 - 09:55DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bettina, nein, hier brauchen Sie das nicht, Sie häkeln einfach mit A.1b, A.2b und A.3b weiter - genauso wie bei den Diagrammen A.1a, A.2a und A.3a. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
28.03.2023 - 10:25Bettina wrote:
Habe auf beiden Seiten 179Stb aber wenn ich A.2b die 10. Runde mache dann wieviel Stb müsste ich haben? Meine Arbeit rollt sich auch wenn ich diese Runde fertig habe also habe ich zu wenig
27.03.2023 - 16:19DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Bettina, mit 179 Stäbchen auf beiden Seiten sind es Platz für 21 Rapporter A.2 zwischen beiden A.3. Beachten Sie daß Ihre Luftmaschen genauso breit wie die Stäbchen sind, so verliert man die Breite nicht. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
28.03.2023 - 09:46