DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
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DROPS Buttons
Pearl No. 541

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.95$.

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My First Christmas

Santa onesie with hood for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca

DROPS Baby 19-16
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-76) cm / 20½"-22"-25¼" (26¾"-30")
Full length: 56-65-74 (80-88) cm / 22"-25½"-29⅛" (31½"-34⅝")

Materials: DROPS ALPACA
250-250-300 (300-350) g color no 3620, red
100-100-100 (100-150) g color no 1101, white

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24") size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st with 2 threads Alpaca = 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4".
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for seed st.

DROPS PEARL BUTTON no 541: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

SEED ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K.
Repeat row 2.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front band.
1 BUTTONHOLE = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front and make 1 YO.
Make buttonholes when piece measures a total of:
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: 23, 30, 37, 44, 51 cm / 9", 11¾", 14½", 17¼", 20".
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: 28, 36, 44, 52, 60 cm / 11", 14¼", 17¼", 20½", 23⅝".
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: 31, 38, 46, 53, 61, 68 cm / 12¼", 15", 18", 21", 24", 26¾".
SIZE 2 YEARS: 34, 42, 50, 58, 66, 74 cm / 13⅜", 16½", 19¾", 22¾", 26", 29⅛".
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: 39, 48, 56, 65, 73, 82 cm / 15¼", 19", 22", 25½", 28¾", 32¼"
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LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
LOOSELY cast on 34-36-40 (44-48) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white. K 1 round and continue in SEED ST – see above. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾" change to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and 2 threads red and continue in stockinette st. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 14 cm / 5½" inc 1 st each side of marker, and repeat the inc on every 2-2-3 (4-5) round a total of 7-8-9 (9-10) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. When piece measures 21-24-27 (32-37) cm / 8¼"-9½"-10⅝" (12½"-14½") bind off 4 sts at the inside of leg (= 2 sts each side of marker) = 44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

BODY:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with the inside of legs towards each other = 88-96-108 (116-128) sts. Now continue back and forth on circular needle from mid front as follows (first row = RS): Cast on 3 new sts on needle, K all sts on row and cast on 3 new sts at the end of row = 94-102-114 (122-134) sts. Insert a marker 25-27-30 (32-35) sts in from each side (= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts between markers on back piece). Continue in stockinette st with 5 sts each side towards mid front in garter st (= front bands). AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-28-31 (34-39) cm / 9"-11"-12¼" (13⅜"-15¼") make buttonholes on right front band – SEE ABOVE! When piece measures 45-53-61 (66-73) cm / 17¾"-21"-24" (26"-28¾") divide the piece by the 2 markers and complete front and back pieces separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 44-48-54 (58-64) sts. Continue in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row each side for sleeves: 3 sts 2-1-3 (1-2) times, 5 sts 1-2-1 (2-2) times, 7 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and then 9-10-12 (14-16) sts 1 time = 98-108-120 (140-156) sts on needle. When piece measures 55-64-73 (79-87) cm / 21⅝"-25¼"-28¾" (31"-34¼") bind off the middle 16-18-18 (20-20) sts for neck and complete each shoulder/sleeve separately. Work 2 rows stockinette st on the remaining 41-45-51 (60-68) sts and bind off LOOSELY.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 25-27-30 (32-35) sts. Continue in stockinette st with the 5 front band sts in garter st as before, AT THE SAME TIME cast on new sts at the end of every row towards the side for sleeve as described for back piece = 52-57-63 (73-81) sts. When piece measures 52-61-69 (75-83) cm / 20½"-24"-27⅛" (29½"-32¾") bind off 5-6-6 (7-7) sts towards mid front for neck and bind off to shape the neckline at the beg of every row from mid front: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 41-45-51 (60-68) sts left on needle for shoulder/sleeve. Continue until piece measures 56-65-74 (80-88) cm / 22"-25½"-29⅛" (31½"-34⅝") and bind off LOOSELY.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Like left front piece, but mirrored – remember buttonholes on front band.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew upper arm seams, edge to edge in outer loops of sts. Place right front band over left front band and sew tog at the bottom of body piece. Sew under arm seams, edge to edge in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.

CUFF:
Pick up 32-36-36 (40-40) sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white round sleeve edge. Work seed st in the round until cuff measures 5 cm / 2" and bind off LOOSELY with K over P and P over K. Repeat round the other sleeve edge. Fold sleeve and leg edges towards RS.

HOOD:
Pick up approx 40 to 50 sts from RS round neck on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with 2 threads red – beg after the 5 front band sts on right front piece and finish before the 5 front band sts on left front piece. Work stockinette st back and forth on needle, AT THE SAME TIME on second row (= from RS) inc evenly to 66-70-74 (78-82) sts. Continue until hood measures 21-23-25 (27-28) cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" (10⅝"-11") and bind off. Sew hood tog at the top in outer loops of sts.
Now work border round the opening of hood as follows: Pick up approx 81-89-97 (105-109) sts from RS along the opening of hood on needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with 2 threads white. Work seed st back and forth on needle until border measures 6 cm / 2⅜" and bind off LOOSELY with K over P and P over K. Fold border double towards RS and sew border to the 5 garter sts each side. Make a white pompom with a diameter of approx 4-5 cm / 1½"-2" and attach to the top of hood.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

From the #dropsfan gallery

We have 4 version/s of this pattern in the #dropsfan gallery. Have you made it too?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

My First Christmas

Liioni, Sweden

My First Christmas

joanne1989, United Kingdom

First Christmas

kobanul, United States

My First Christmas

Maren, Norway

Comments / Questions (71)

Linh wrote:

Attention, la laine rouge déteint beaucoup. Meme en juste trempant la combinaison, le contour blanc est devenu rose. C'est vraiment dommage.

22.10.2012 - 19:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Linh, il est très important de toujours bien suivre les instructions de lavage ! Cf Produits/Conseils pour l'entretien: pas trop de lessive, attention à celles qui sont trop fortes et/ou avec des agents blanchissants, toujours rincer jusqu'à ce que l'eau soit claire,ne jamais faire sécher un vêtement trop mouillé, toujours enlever le maximum d'eau en pressant dans une serviette par ex. Suivez bien les instructions d'entretien et le rouge ne déteindra plus sur le blanc.

22.10.2012 - 21:20

Friebelino wrote:

Hallöchen, möchte von diesem Modell gerne das Foto als Vorlage benutzen, wie komme ich daran???

18.10.2012 - 16:20

Hallo Friebelino, Sie können das Foto und die Anleitung ausdrucken.

22.10.2012 - 09:07

A-L Hyvönen wrote:

Hur stickar jag ärmar.

21.09.2012 - 17:42

Förklaring på hur du stickar ärmar finns på bak och framstycket. /DROPS Design

26.09.2012 - 11:02

Maggy wrote:

Hallo, habt ihr den Strampler mit 2 Fäden gestrickt oder kann ich ihn auch mit 1 Faden stricken ? wird das nicht zu dick mit 2 Fäden ?

07.03.2012 - 13:07

Ja, der Strampler ist mit 2 Fäden auf Garngruppe A gestrich. Sie können auch mit 1 Faden aus der Garngruppe C stricken.

07.03.2012 - 14:32

Ulrike wrote:

Was für ein süßer Hingucker! Ich hab diesen Anzug für meinen kleinen Sohn zur Geburt gestrickt. Pünktlich zu Weihnachten konnte er ihn anziehen. Die Verwandtschaft fand's natürlich toll! Und richtig kuschelig warm für Tragetuch und Kinderwagen ist der Woll-Overall auch noch - perfekt! Vielen Dank an die designer :-)

30.12.2011 - 18:09

JeleSuext wrote:

Hello I want to say hello everyone. I'm start here - parenting books parenting books obraczki slubne

17.11.2011 - 10:00

Die Frage hat sich schon erledigt, ich habe falsche gelesen!

08.11.2011 - 18:39

Hilfe, ich komme mit den Ärmeln nicht ganz klar. Wenn ich die 13 Zunahmen (kleinste Größe) über 26 Reihen ausführe, werden die Ärmel-Öffnungen leicht schräg (9 mal 1 Masche zugenommen). Ist das so gewollt? Oder müssen die 13 Zunahmen über 13 Reihen gemacht werden, was ich schwierig fände (Zunahmen am Anfang UND Ende einer Reihe). Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe.

08.11.2011 - 18:19

DROPS Design wrote:

Ermene er strikke på (strikkes ikke for seg selv).

11.05.2011 - 12:07

Helene wrote:

Jeg finner ikke oppskrift på ermene? Jeg har fått lagt opp til skuldre, og felt av til hals... Men hvor mange masker skal jeg ta opp til ermer, hvor ofte skal jeg felle?

10.05.2011 - 21:10

My First Christmas

Santa onesie with hood for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a schematic drawing

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

From the #dropsfan gallery

My First Christmas

My First Christmas

First Christmas

My First Christmas

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 19-16

Comments / Questions (71)

My First Christmas

Santa onesie with hood for baby and children in 2 threads DROPS Alpaca

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	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca	4.85 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca	5.10 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca uni colour 100% Alpaca 4.85 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca mix 100% Alpaca 5.10 $ /50g Order