DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
 100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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  5. 109
  6. 1

Campfire

Knitted DROPS Jumper with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.

Change language:

DROPS 109-1
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-94-106-116-128-138 cm
[34⅝"-37"-41¾"-45¾"-50⅜"-54¼"]
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½]

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
color no 46, gray: 800-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle size 8 mm [US 11] (80 cm [32"]) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Snow
DROPS Snow
 100% Wool
from 2.65 $ /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.
Front bands:
Starting from RS: * K 4 rows, P 2 rows *, repeat from *-*.
Note! Left front i.e the sts that are picked up behind the right front = pick up row counts as the first K row of the K 4 rows.

Body piece: Worked in the round. Cast on 96-104-116-128-140-152 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 10 cm [4"] continue in stockinette st. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round and 1 MT after 48-52-58-64-70-76 sts (= the sides). Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm [6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"] dec 1 st on each side of both MT (= 4 dec per round). Repeat the dec when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm [11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"] = 88-96-108-120-132-144 sts (= 44-48-54-60-66-72 sts on back and front piece). When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm [13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"], cut the thread. Now continue as follows: Beg after the 15-17-20-23-26-29 st from the first MT. Work 14 sts front band – see above – and stockinette st on the next 74-82-94-106-118-130 sts. Now pick up 14 new sts behind the front band = 102-110-122-134-146-158 sts. Continue back and forth on needle with 14 front band sts each side. At the same time when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm [14¼"-14½"-15"-14¼"-15¾"-16⅛"] inc 1 st on both sides of each MT (= 4 inc per round). Repeat the inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm [18"-18½"-19"-19¼"-19¾"-20"] = 110-118-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm [19¾"-20"-20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"] bind off 6 sts each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of MT) for armhole = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts. Now complete back and front pieces separately.

Back piece: = 42-46-52-58-64-70 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-4 times = 40-42-44-44-46-46 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm [26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"] bind off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½].

Right front piece: = 28-30-33-36-39-42 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole as described for back piece = 27-28-29-29-30-30 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26¾"-27½"slip 14 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder and now dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 1 st 0-0-1-1-2-2 times = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½].

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 28-28-28-32-32-32 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11]. Insert 1 MT at beg of round. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 8 cm [3⅛"] continue in stockinette st, at the same time dec 2-2-0-4-2-2 sts evenly on first round = 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts. When piece measures 10 cm [4"] inc 1 st on both sides of MT on every 6-5-5-3.5-3.5-2.5 cm [2⅜"-2"-2"-1¼"-1¼"-⅞"] a total of 7-8-8-10-10-12 times = 40-42-44-48-50-54 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-46-45-44 cm [19¼"-19"-19"-18"-17¾"-17¼""] - Note! Less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off 3 sts on both sides of MT for armhole, and now complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-58 cm [22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22¾"], bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-57-58-58-58-59 cm [22½"-22½"-22¾"-22¾"-22 ¾"23¼"].

Hood: Pick up approx 60 to 65 sts round neckline (includes sts on stitch holder) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. Work 4 rows garter st with front bands as before. At the same time inc 5 sts evenly (do not inc on front band sts) on the last row = 65 to 70 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 14 front band sts each side as before until hood measures 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm [13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-14¼"-14½"-14½"]. Bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at top from RS.

Assembly: Set in sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.07.2008
Amount of yarn needed:
800-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g
= 16-17-19-20-22-24 balls

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.  

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (161)

country flag Jennifer wrote:

Ich bin blutige Anfängerin im Pulloverstricken und verstehe die Blende leider überhaupt nicht. Mit den Abnahmen an den Seiten bin ich fertig. Wieso muss nun nach 36 cm der Faden abgeschnitten werden? Verstehe ich es richtig, dass ich dann die ersten 23 M ignoriere und bei der 24. M anfange, die Blende mit einem neuen Faden zu stricken? Was passiert mit den ersten 23 M? Wo lasse ich die?

29.04.2017 - 23:41

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jennifer, von der Anschlagskante begannen Sie an einer der Seite (= 1. Markierer). Nach 36 cm stricken Sie hin- und zurück von der Mitte am Vorderteil, dh die erste Reihe wird nach dem ersten 23 M anfangen, diese 23 M stricken Sie dann am Ende dieser Reihe + 14 neue M hinter den ersten 14 M auffassen (siehe Video hier). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.05.2017 - 10:00

country flag Mille wrote:

Så faldt 10-øren endeligt :D Tusind tak for hjælpen!

04.10.2016 - 19:38

country flag Mille wrote:

Hej. Beklager meget, men Jeg forstår det desværre stadig ikke. Skal jeg strikke: 1: 14 ret, resten ret, 2: 14 ret, resten vrang, 3: 14 ret, resten ret, 4: 14 ret, resten vrang, 5: 14 vrang, resten ret, 6: 14 vrang, resten vrang Eller: 1: 14 ret, 82 ret, 14 ret, 2: 14 ret, 82 vrang, 14 ret, 3&4: gentag, 5: 14 vrang, 82 ret, 14 vrang, 6: 14 vrang, 82 vrang, 14 vrang Har prøvet begge og pillet hele skidtet op igen. Ingen af dem giver mønstret, så jeg har stadig ikke fanget den 😕

03.10.2016 - 19:47

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mille. Saadan ville jeg strikke: Du strikker 14 m forkant (ret), strik resten af pinden glat. Slaa 14 nye masker op bag forkanten, strik dem ret, glat, og 14 m forkant r. Vend, 14 m forkant r, glat, 14 m forkant bag r. Vend, 14 m forkant bag r, glat, 14 m forkant r. Vend, 14 m forkant vr, glat, 14 m forkant bag vr. Vend, 14 m forkant bag vr, glat, 14 m forkant vr. Vend, start forfra med 4 p r, 2 p vr over forkantmaskerne.

04.10.2016 - 14:51

country flag Mille wrote:

Hej. Jeg forstår ikke kraven. Hvis jeg strikket fire pinde ret og to vrang får jeg et helt andet mønster end på billedet. Skal jeg strikke hver side af kraven som en eller to pinde? Altså pind 1: 14 ret glatstrik og så slut med 14 ret eller vrang? Og hvad skal jeg så starte fra vrangsiden har set videoen 7-8 gange nu og det er ikke til at gennemskue, hvad de gør der - kan i hvert fald ikke få det til at passe med fire pinde ret og to vrang. Dumb it down please? :-)

02.10.2016 - 22:34

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Mille. Du har to kraver: 1 foran og 1 bagved den förste (se billede). Du strikker over de förste 14 m krave rundt og ender med de 14 m krave bag den förste. Du strikker 4 pinde r frem og tilbage (rillestrik) og herefter 2 p vr staar der. Dvs, du strikker r, r, r, r, vr, vr, r, r, r, r, osv. Du faar da 4 riller og 2 p glat som paa billedet.

03.10.2016 - 10:40

country flag Caren Harju wrote:

Confused... [19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8''] bind off 6 sts each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of MT) for armhole = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts. Now complete back and front pieces separately. How do I work each piece separately when they are on the same circular needles?

21.07.2016 - 00:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Harju, keep the sts for back piece on needle (= 42-46-52-58-64-70 sts) to continue working back piece, and put the remaining sts for front pieces on a st holder, they will then slipped back later on needle. Happy knitting!

21.07.2016 - 09:11

country flag Doreen wrote:

Hallo, wenn ich den faden abgeschnitten habe, soll ich ab Masche.... Wieder anfangen mit stricken, was mache ich mit den vorherigen maschen?

12.02.2016 - 13:19

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Doreen, bitte schreiben Sie, auf welche Stelle sich Ihre Frage bezieht.

06.03.2016 - 14:54

country flag Sarah wrote:

Hallo liebe Strickhelfer, Ich bin gerade bei der Kapuze. Hier steht: "...Glatt mit je 14 Blendem in Krausrippe auf beiden Seiten stricken bis die Kapuze 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm misst. Danach abk. und die Kapuze hinten zusammen nähen." Müsste es nicht OBEN zusammen nähen heißen? Ich soll ja von den einen Blendenm um den Hals herum zu den anderen Blendem stricken. Dann gäbe es ja nichts hinten zum Zusammennähen, oder versteh ich das nur nicht richtig?

20.12.2015 - 09:20

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, die Naht ist oben längs auf dem Kopf, das ist richtig. Sie legen die Abkettkante doppelt und schließen diese Naht.

22.12.2015 - 09:46

country flag Sarah wrote:

Ich stecke gerade beim Übergang zum Rückenteil fest. Muss ich nach dem Abketten der 6 Maschen des 2. Ärmels die Runde zu ende stricken? Wird der Faden dann abgeschnitten? Oder fange ich mit einem neuen Knäuel bei den Rücken-M. an?

06.12.2015 - 23:28

DROPS Design answered:

Ja, Sie stricken die Reihe noch zu Ende. Für das Rückenteil müssen Sie mit einem neuen Faden ansetzen, Sie können aber auch erst das eine Vorderteil mit dem noch vorhandenen Arbeitsfaden weiterstricken.

11.12.2015 - 15:49

country flag Anja wrote:

Luzi hat das Wort mit 2 aa geschrieben, der Puli ist also nicht hart/fest, sondern er haart, bzw. fuselt ;-) Als Tipp könnte ich das Tiefkühlfach nennen, einfach den Puli ein paar Stunden dort hineinlegen. Manchmal hilft das. Bei wenigen Fuseln reicht es auch, vorsichtig mit einer Klebefuselbürste drüberzustreichen.

15.10.2015 - 11:11

DROPS Design answered:

Sie haben Recht, danke für die Aufklärung! :-) So schnell kann man etwas missverstehen... - Dass unverzwirntes Dochtgarn wie Eskimo ein wenig zu Fusseln oder Knötchenbildung neigt, lässt sich leider nicht ganz vermeiden. Man kann die Fusseln/Knötchen vorsichtig abzupfen. An sich sollte das Garn möglichst wenig Reibung ausgesetzt werden. Danke auch für Ihren Tiefkühltipp.

16.10.2015 - 12:07

country flag Luzi wrote:

Hallo, habe diesen tollen Pullover für meine Freundin gestrickt,allerdings habe ich folgendes Problem, der Pulli haart,wie kann ich ihn behandeln, das dies besser wird? LG

28.09.2015 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Was genau meinen Sie mit hart? Eskimo ist ein sehr weiches Dochtgarn. Wenn Sie sehr fest stricken, kann der Pullover natürlich recht fest werden, aber dann hätten Sie wahrscheinlich die Maschenprobe auch nicht erreicht und sollten eine größere Nadel verwenden, dann wird der Pulli lockerer. Haben Sie die Maschenprobe denn eingehalten und das Originalgarn verwendet?

03.10.2015 - 10:57

Campfire



Knitted DROPS Jumper with hood in ”Snow”. Size S - XXXL.

DROPS 109-1
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL

Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-94-106-116-128-138 cm
[34⅝"-37"-41¾"-45¾"-50⅜"-54¼"]
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½]

Materials: DROPS Snow from Garnstudio
color no 46, gray: 800-850-950-1000-1100-1200 g

DROPS double pointed needles and circular needle size 8 mm [US 11] (80 cm [32"]) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Front bands:
Starting from RS: * K 4 rows, P 2 rows *, repeat from *-*.
Note! Left front i.e the sts that are picked up behind the right front = pick up row counts as the first K row of the K 4 rows.

Body piece: Worked in the round. Cast on 96-104-116-128-140-152 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 10 cm [4"] continue in stockinette st. Insert 1 Marking Thread (MT) at beg of round and 1 MT after 48-52-58-64-70-76 sts (= the sides). Remember the knitting gauge! When piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm [6"-6¼"-6¾"-7"-7½"-8"] dec 1 st on each side of both MT (= 4 dec per round). Repeat the dec when piece measures 30-31-32-33-34-35 cm [11¾"-12¼"-12½"-13"-13⅜"-13¾"] = 88-96-108-120-132-144 sts (= 44-48-54-60-66-72 sts on back and front piece). When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm [13"-13⅜"-13¾"-14¼"-14½"-15"], cut the thread. Now continue as follows: Beg after the 15-17-20-23-26-29 st from the first MT. Work 14 sts front band – see above – and stockinette st on the next 74-82-94-106-118-130 sts. Now pick up 14 new sts behind the front band = 102-110-122-134-146-158 sts. Continue back and forth on needle with 14 front band sts each side. At the same time when piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm [14¼"-14½"-15"-14¼"-15¾"-16⅛"] inc 1 st on both sides of each MT (= 4 inc per round). Repeat the inc when piece measures 46-47-48-49-50-51 cm [18"-18½"-19"-19¼"-19¾"-20"] = 110-118-130-142-154-166 sts. When piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm [19¾"-20"-20½"-21"-21¼"-21⅝"] bind off 6 sts each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of MT) for armhole = 98-106-118-130-142-154 sts. Now complete back and front pieces separately.

Back piece: = 42-46-52-58-64-70 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 0-0-1-2-3-4 times and 1 st 1-2-2-3-3-4 times = 40-42-44-44-46-46 sts. When piece measures 68-70-72-74-76-78 cm [26¾"-27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"] bind off the middle 12-12-14-14-16-16 sts for neck and dec 1 st on neckline on next row = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on each shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½].

Right front piece: = 28-30-33-36-39-42 sts. Bind off to shape the armhole as described for back piece = 27-28-29-29-30-30 sts. When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm [23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼"-26¾"-27½"slip 14 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder and now dec to shape the neckline on every other row as follows: 1 st 0-0-1-1-2-2 times = 13-14-14-14-14-14 sts left on shoulder. Bind off when piece measures 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm [27½"-28⅜"-29⅛"-30"-30¾"-31½].

Left front piece: Like right front piece, but mirrored.

Sleeve: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 28-28-28-32-32-32 sts on needle size 8 mm [US 11]. Insert 1 MT at beg of round. P 1 round and continue in rib, K2/P2. When piece measures 8 cm [3⅛"] continue in stockinette st, at the same time dec 2-2-0-4-2-2 sts evenly on first round = 26-26-28-28-30-30 sts. When piece measures 10 cm [4"] inc 1 st on both sides of MT on every 6-5-5-3.5-3.5-2.5 cm [2⅜"-2"-2"-1¼"-1¼"-⅞"] a total of 7-8-8-10-10-12 times = 40-42-44-48-50-54 sts. When piece measures 49-48-48-46-45-44 cm [19¼"-19"-19"-18"-17¾"-17¼""] - Note! Less on the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulder – bind off 3 sts on both sides of MT for armhole, and now complete piece back and forth on needle. Bind off to shape the sleeve cap each side at the beg of every row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-3-4-5-6-7 times, then 2 sts each side until piece measures 56-56-57-57-57-58 cm [22"-22"-22½"-22½"-22½"-22¾"], bind off 3 sts each side 1 time and bind off remaining sts. Piece measures approx 57-57-58-58-58-59 cm [22½"-22½"-22¾"-22¾"-22 ¾"23¼"].

Hood: Pick up approx 60 to 65 sts round neckline (includes sts on stitch holder) on needle size 8 mm [US 11] with Snow. Work 4 rows garter st with front bands as before. At the same time inc 5 sts evenly (do not inc on front band sts) on the last row = 65 to 70 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 14 front band sts each side as before until hood measures 35-35-36-36-37-37 cm [13¾"-13¾"-14¼"-14¼"-14½"-14½"]. Bind off. Fold hood double and sew tog at top from RS.

Assembly: Set in sleeves.

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