DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g

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Sweet Shepherdess

Drops Vest and socks in “Karisma Superwash ”.

DROPS 35-9
DROPS design: Model no U-281
Yarn group B
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Size: Small (Medium-Large)

VEST
Materials: DROPS Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
750 (800-850) g in col no 44, gray.

DROPS Zipper: 50cm / 19¾".

DROPS Circular Needles, long (80cm/32"): 3mm and 4mm/ US 2.5 and 6.
or the size needed to obtain the correct gauge.

SOCKS:
Materials: Drops Karisma Superwash from Garnstudio
250 g in col no 44, grey.
Drops double pointed needles size 2.5mm and 3mm.
or the size needed to obtain the correct knitting tension.
Size: Length: 62 (65) cm. Foot: 23 (26) cm.
Knitting Tension: 22 sts x 32 rows on needle size 3mm in stocking st = 10x10cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

Knitting gauge: 24sts x 26 rows on needle size 4 mm / US 6 in pattern = 10x10cm/4"x4".

Pattern: See diagram (1 diagram = 1 repeat). Pattern is read from right to left, and all rows in pattern are seen from RS.

Rib: *K1, P1. Repeat from * - *.

Vest: Vest is knitted back and forth on circ needle. Cast on 288 (306-324) sts on long circ needle size 3 mm / US 2.5. Work 4cm/1½" rib.
Change to circ needle size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in pattern.
Remember to check your tension/gauge.
Continue until piece measures 39 (43-46) cm.
Next row: 72 (77-81) sts for front, 144 (152-162) sts for back, 72 (77-81) sts for front. Each piece is finished separately.

Left front: = 72 (77-81) sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 50 (50-50) cm. Dec for neck on every other row as follows: 1 st 12-(10-10) times and then on every 3rd row as follows: 1 st 8 (13-13) times = 52 (54-58) sts.
Continue until piece measures 65 (70-73) cm. Cast/bind off for shoulder on every other row as follows: 4 (5-7) sts twice, 11 sts 4 (4-4) times.
All sts are now bound off and piece measures approx 70 (75-78) cm.

Right front: = 72 (77-81) sts. Work as left front.

Back: = 144 (152-162) sts. Continue in pattern until piece measures 65 (70-73) cm. Cast/bind off for shoulders as on front and at the same time when piece measures 68 (73-76) cm, cast/bind off centre 34 (38-40) sts for neck, then dec 3 sts at neck edge on next row. All sts are now bound off and piece measures approx 70 (75-78) cm.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 120-130 sts around each arm hole on circ needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work 2 cm / ¾" rib. Bind off loosely.
Pick up approx 170 (180-190) sts along left front as far as centre back (approx 110 sts up to neck, approx 40 (50-60) sts up to shoulder, approx 20 sts to centre back neck) on circ needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work 3 cm / 1" rib back and forth on needle. Bind off.
Pick up approx 110 sts on circ needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 along left edge inside the rib edge in the same sts picked up earlier but only as far as neck. Work 2cm rib. Bind off.
Repeat along right side. You have now made a pocket for the zipper. Insert zipper between the two rib edges on left front and sew.
Repeat on right side.

SOCKS
Rib: K1. P1.
Single Decrease: *S1, K1 (purl side = P1), psso.*
Decreasing for heel:
1st row (RS) Work until 6 (7) sts remain on needle. Turn work.
2nd row: (WS) Work until 6 (7) sts remain on needle. Turn work. 3rd row: Work until 8
sts remain on needle, work single decrease (see description). Turn work.
4th row: Work until 8 sts remain on needle, work single decrease. Turn work. Continue
and work so there is 1 sts less each side before the single decrease is worked. Continue
until 12 (14) sts remain.
Sock: Cast on 72 (80) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5mm with grey and work 28
(32) cm rib, but change to double pointed needles size 3mm after 5 cm.
Work rib and at the same time dec 24 (28) sts evenly on first round = 48 (52) sts. When
rib is completed put centre 24 (26) sts on a thread. Remember to check your tension.
Work 5 (6) cm in stocking st. (heel) over centre the 24 (26) sts and then decrease for
heel (see description). Pick up 12 (13) sts each side of heel and put all sts on one needle
= 60 (66) sts. Continue to dec as follows on each side of the upper 24 (26) sts: K2 tog at
beginning and end on every other row 6 times = 48 (54) sts. Continue until foot
measures 19 (21.5) cm. Put a marker each side of foot and dec for toes each side of
marker as follows: K2 tog before and after marker on every other row 3 times = 36 (42)
sts, then on every row 7 (9) times = 8 (6) sts. Pull thread trough remaining sts and
fasten.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 21.08.2018
Correction socks: Pick up 12 (13) sts each side of heel and put all sts on one needle = 60 (66) sts.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

	= K on RS, P on WS
	= P on RS, K on WS

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (9)

Sarah wrote:

Bonjour Je n'arrive pas bien à comprendre comment relever les mailles à l'intérieur des côtes, dernière partie de l'assemblage, et ensuite insérer le zip, auriez vous une vidéo (ou autre) explicative ? Je vous remercie d'avance pour votre réponse et vous souhaite une très bonne journée Sarah

10.12.2024 - 21:48

09.12.2024 - 13:48

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sarah, pour la fermeture à glissière, on va créer une sorte de housse en tricotant 2 bordures, l'une sur l'endroit l'autre sur l'envers pour y glisser la fermeture à glissière entre ces 2 bordures. Relevez les mailles d'abord sur l'endroit et tricotez ces 3 cm de côtes, puis relevez les mailles sur l'envers (mais jusqu'à l'encolure seulement car on fait ici la partie envers (intérieure) de la "housse") et tricotez 3 cm de côtes. Glissez ensuite la fermeture à glissière entre ces 3 cm de côtes et cousez dans les 3 épaisseurs. Bon tricot!

11.12.2024 - 08:04

Sarah Horn wrote:

Encore une question désolée Lorsque l'on rabat pour l'épaule, est-ce côté manche ou encolure ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Sarah

01.11.2024 - 10:13

Bonjour Mme Horn, lorsque vous rabattez les mailles de l'épaule, commencez par les mailles côté emmanchure (en début de rang à partir de l'emmanchure vers l'encolure). Bon tricot!

01.11.2024 - 16:36

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse rapide, une précision additionnelle, lorsque l'on diminue sur l'envers, doit-on le faire en début (côté emmanchure) ou en fin (côté encolure) de rang ? Merci d'avance Sarah

23.10.2024 - 09:08

Bonjour Sarah, ces diminutions concernent l'encolure elles vont donc se faire en fin de rang sur l'endroit/début de rang sur l'envers pour le devant gauche (quand on porte le vêtement) ou en début de rang sur l'endroit/fin de rang sur l'envers pour le devant droit. Bon tricot!

23.10.2024 - 13:00

Bonjour, J'ai 2 questions au niveau du paragraphe Devant Gauche de ce modèle 1) Que signifie le 1 st dans 1 st 8 fois 1 m ? Est-ce juste une erreur de typo ? 2) Tous les 3 rangs signifie bien que l'on doit rabattre 1 maille au rang 1 (endroit) puis au rang 4 (envers) et ainsi de suite ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Sarah

22.10.2024 - 21:18

Bonjour Sarah, merci pour la typo corrigée; on va plutôt diminuer que rabattre ici, donc d'abord tous les 2 rangs puis tous les 3 rangs, autrement dit, quand on va diminuer tous les 3 rangs on le fera alternativement sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

23.10.2024 - 08:27

Ute wrote:

Sind bei der Anleitung nur die hinreihen angegeben? Also Rückreihen die Maschen stricken wie sie erscheinen?

03.09.2024 - 12:15

Liebe Ute, alle Reihen werden gezeichnet, Hin-Reihen (lesen Sie rechts nach links) sowie Rückreihen (lesen Sie links nach rechts). Viel Spaß bem Stricken!

04.09.2024 - 08:20

Cathrin Persson wrote:

Kan man sticka denna tröja hel i fram ? Alltså inte ha någon dragkedja utan helt upp till v ringningen?

11.02.2021 - 18:59

Hej Cathrin, ja det kan der ikke ske noget ved, men vi kan desværre ikke regne den om for dig, men det kan du helt sikkert selv. God fornøjelse!

16.02.2021 - 15:02

Jeannette wrote:

Der er en fejl i opskriften :(. Efter rib tages ind til 48m. Deles i 24 + 24,så der kan strikkes hæl. Efter hæl er der 12 m tilbage. Der tages 6 m op på hver side=12m. Så vi oppe på 24 igen + de 24 “gamle”. Det giver 48 m igen.. men i opskriften står der, at der nu skal være 60 m på pind??? Jeg vil gerne bede om hjælp til dette. mvh Jeannette

15.08.2018 - 01:59

Hej Jeanette, det skal vi se på, der kommer en rettelse så hurtigt som muligt. Tak for info :)

15.08.2018 - 08:09

Hvor meget garn går der på sokkerne ??

19.07.2018 - 23:39

Hei Jeannette. Det går med ca 250 gram av Karisma til sokkene. God fornøyelse

26.07.2018 - 11:50

Sweet Shepherdess

Drops Vest and socks in “Karisma Superwash ”.

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a schematic drawing

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure your tension/gauge

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knitt stitches

How to purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 35-9

Comments / Questions (9)

Sweet Shepherdess

Drops Vest and socks in “Karisma Superwash ”.

Diagram explanations

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	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool	3.00 $ /50g	Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool	3.00 $ /50g	Order

	DROPS Karisma uni colour 100% Wool 3.00 $ /50g Order
	DROPS Karisma mix 100% Wool 3.00 $ /50g Order