DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

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Lavender Smiles

Knitted vest with v-neck for children in DROPS Air. The piece is worked in stockinette stitch with ribbed edges. Sizes 3-12 years.

DROPS Baby & Children 38-23

#lavendersmilesvest

DROPS Design: Pattern no ai-038-bn
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
2 - 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Equivalent to the child’s height in cm:
92 - 98/104 - 110/116 - 122/128 - 134/140 - 146/152
Equivalent to the child’s height in feet:
3ft - 3ft3/3ft5 - 3ft3/3ft5 – 3ft7/3ft9 - 4ft5/4ft7 - 4ft9/4ft12

Finished measurements:
Chest measurements: 64-68-72-76-80-84 cm = 25¼"-26¾"-28⅜"-29½"-31½"-33"
Full length: 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13"-14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½"
All measurements in charts are in cm.

MATERIALS:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color 15, purple haze

KNITTING GAUGE:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stockinette stitch = 10 x 10 cm = 4" x 4".

NEEDLES:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM = US 8.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM = US 8: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for stockinette stitch.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM = US 6 for rib.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM = US 6: Length 40 cm = 16" and 60 cm = 24" or 80 cm = 32" for rib.
Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4", change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Children Children Vests & Tops bottom up stocking stitch v-neck

DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from inches to cm here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in British English here.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.

BINDING-OFF TIP:
To avoid the bind-off edge being tight you can bind off with a larger size needle. If the edge is still tight, make 1 yarn over after approx. each 4th stitch at the same time as binding off; the yarn overs are bind off as normal stitches.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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VEST – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The piece is worked in the round with circular needle bottom up as far as the armholes. Then the front and back pieces are finished separately, back and forth with circular needle and the v-neck is worked on the front piece. To finish, ribbed edging is worked around the neck and armholes.

BODY:
Cast on 108-116-124-128-136-144 stitches with circular needle size 4 MM = US 6 and Air.
Knit 1 round, then work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1⅛".
Change to circular needle size 5 MM = US 8.
Work stockinette stitch. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When the piece measures 16-18-21-24-27-30 cm = 6¼"-7"-8¼"-9½"-10⅝"-11¾" bind off stitches for the armholes as follows: Bind off the first 4 stitches, work the next 46-50-54-56-60-64 stitches (= front piece), bind off 8 stitches, work the next 46-50-54-56-60-64 stitches (= back piece) and bind off the last 4 stitches on the round. Let the stitches for front piece rest in the needle or place them on a thread while working the back piece.

BACK PIECE:
= 46-50-54-56-60-64 stitches. Start from the wrong side and work stockinette stitch back and forth – AT THE SAME TIME bind off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time, and bind off 1 stitch 1 time = 40-44-48-50-54-58 stitches.
Continue working until the piece measures 31-34-38-42-46-50 cm = 12¼"-13⅜"-15"-16½"-18"-19¾". On the next row bind off the middle 14-14-16-16-18-18 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue with stockinette stitch and bind off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 12-14-15-16-17-19 stitches on the shoulder. Continue working until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13"-14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½". Bind off. Work the other shoulder in the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
= 46-50-54-56-60-64 stitches. Insert a marker thread in the middle of the row, with 23-25-27-28-30-32 stitches on each side of the thread (the marker thread is used when working the v-neck).
READ THE NEXT SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Continue with stockinette stitch and bind off for the armholes at the beginning of each row in each side as follows: Bind off 2 stitches 1 time, and bind off 1 stitch 1 time = 40-44-48-50-54-58 stitches.
AT THE SAME TIME when the piece measures 19-22-25-29-32-36 cm = 7½"-8¾"-9¾"-11⅜"-12½"-14¼" divide the piece and decrease for the neck as follows – from the right side: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together and work 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read explanation above. Place the remaining 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches after the marker thread on a thread (without working them).
Each shoulder is finished separately; do not cut the strand. The left shoulder is worked first.

LEFT SHOULDER (front piece):
= 19-21-23-24-26-28 stitches. Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck, and decrease for neck the same way inside of 1 edge stitch on the end of row from the right side every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm = ½"-½"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜" a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times (including the first decrease when the front piece was divided) = 12-14-15-16-17-19 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13"-14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½". Bind off with knit from the right side.

RIGHT SHOULDER (front piece):
Place the stitches from the thread back onto the needle = 20-22-24-25-27-29 stitches.
Work stockinette stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck, and decrease for the neck on the inside of 1 edge stitch at the beginning of row from the right side every 1½-1½-1-1-1-1 cm = ½"-½"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜"-⅜" (decrease by slipping 1 stitch, knitting 1 and passing the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch) a total of 8-8-9-9-10-10 times = 12-14-15-16-17-19 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with stockinette stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the neck until the piece measures 33-36-40-44-48-52 cm = 13"-14¼"-15¾"-17¼"-19"-20½". Bind off with knit from the right side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams.

ARMHOLES:
Use short circular needle or double pointed needles size 4 MM = US 6. Start from the right side at the bottom of the armhole and knit up 58-62-66-70-74-78 stitches inside the 1 edge stitch around the armhole (number of stitches should be divisible by 2).
Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – read BINDING-OFF TIP!
Work the other armhole in the same way.

NECK:
Use short circular needle size 4 MM = US 6. Start from the right side by the shoulder seam and knit up approx. 67-69-75-77-79-83 stitches around the neck (including the stitches on the thread; the number of stitches should be divisible by 2 + 1). Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) – make sure you have a knitted stitch mid front of the v-neck. AT THE SAME TIME on every 2nd round decrease 2 stitches mid front as follows: Work until there is 1 stitch left before the knitted stitch, slip 2 stitches as if to knit together, knit 1 and pass the 2 slipped stitches over the knitted stitch (= 2 stitches decreased). Doing this will give you a neat v-neck and the knitted stitch will give a straight line mid-front. Work this rib for 3 cm = 1⅛". Bind off with knit over knit and purl over purl – remember BINDING-OFF TIP!

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #lavendersmilesvest or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (6)

Asta Klarner wrote:

Ich arbeite die Größe 5/6. Beschrieben ist, dass ich dann nach 21cm mit den Armausschnitten beginne. Beim weiter gearbeiteten Rückenteil steht: nach 38cm mit dem Halsausschnitt beginnen. Auf der Skizze hat der Pullunder eine Gesamtlänge von 40 cm.(Schulterhöhe). Die Halsblende soll 3 cm breit werden und nach der Skizze die Schulterhöhe nicht erreichen. Das wären dann aber mehr als 41 cm. ??? Da stimmt irgendetwas nicht. Welche Maße soll ich nehmen?

24.10.2024 - 16:37

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Klarner, die gesamte Höhe ist 40 cm, dh Halsausschnitt beim Rückenteil ist 2 cm; die Halsblende wird keine zusätzliche Höhe / Länge bringen da sie um herum den Halsausschnitt legen wird. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!

25.10.2024 - 07:37

Julie wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke følgende: ‘ Luk 2 masker af 1 gang, og luk 1 maske af 1 gang = 40-44-48-50-54-58 masker’ \r\n\r\nEr det både i begyndelsen og enden af pinden? Ellers forstår jeg ikke hvordan man går fra 50 til 44 masker? \r\n\r\nKan I uddybe. Vh

18.10.2024 - 20:33

JULIE MCDERMOTT wrote:

I am having trouble understanding the bind off for the armholes. Have you got a video or tutorial that explains how to decrease for the armholes when knitting in the round.? I would appreciate this help thankyou. Julie

07.05.2024 - 09:27

Dear Mrs Mcdermott, you will bind off for armhole on a round from right side, ie on last round on body, then after stitches have been bound off for armholes, you will continue working each piece separately back and forth on needle. Happy knitting!

07.05.2024 - 13:16

Bella wrote:

I couldnt follow the v neck instructions. I got confused with knitting to one stitch before the centre stitch then slipping 2 which means i would be slipping the centre stitch but then it says to knit one and pass the two slipped stitches over the knitted stitch? is that the centre stitch or the newly knitted stitch. It didnt make sense

30.03.2024 - 02:48

Dear Bella, you work the stitch before and central stitch together, then knit 1 stitch and pass the slipped stitches over the new knit stitch. Now this knit stitch is the new central stitch. Happy knitting!

01.04.2024 - 00:38

Radhika wrote:

Can I make this with 2 stands of fabel? It’s not given as an option by the yarn converter but the pattern does say you can use 2 strands of a group A yarn. Is there a reason why fabel is not given as an option by the yarn converter?

12.08.2022 - 15:34

Dear Radhika, yes, you can use 2 strnds of DROPS Fabel instead. Happy knitting!

12.08.2022 - 16:09

Eva wrote:

Why do you need an odd number of stitches for the Vneck part? If I do 1p1k rib there would be a section, where it is either 2k or 2p. Where should this section go and what is the point of it?

29.03.2022 - 19:35

Dear Eva, you need an uneven number so you will have one stitch as the middle stitch at the middle front. Happy Knitting!

30.03.2022 - 06:28