Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= light brown | |
= off white | |
= make 1 yarn over between 2 stitches, on the next row purl the yarn over twisted to NOT make a hole. |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Mandal Jacket |
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Knitted jacket with round yoke and Nordic pattern in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 207-6 |
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------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram is worked in stocking stitch. RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge in height = Knit 2 rows. INCREASE TIP-1 (evenly spaced): To work out how to increase evenly, count the total number of stitches on the needle (e.g. 104 stitches) minus bands (e.g. 10 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by the number of increases to be made (e.g. 18) = 5.2. In this example, increase by making 1 yarn over after approx each 5th stitch. On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. INCREASE TIP-2 (for sides of body): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits between these 4 stitches) make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased at each marker thread; 4 stitches increased on row). On the next row purl the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch = 2 stitches decreased. BUTTONHOLE: Work buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Work from the right side when there are 3 stitches left on row as follows: Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together and knit the last stitch. On the next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to leave a hole. The first buttonhole is worked when the neck measures approx. 2 cm. Then work the other 5-6-6-7-7-7 buttonholes with approx. 8-8-8-8-8-9 cm between each one. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The neck and yoke are worked back and forth with circular needle, top down from mid front. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body continued back and forth with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles, top down. NECK: Cast on 104-108-112-116-124-128 stitches (including 5 band stitches on each side towards mid front) with circular needle size 3.5 mm and light brown. Purl 1 row (= wrong side). The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, knit 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. When the rib is finished knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 18-21-24-34-33-43 stitches evenly spaced – read INCREASE TIP-1 = 122-129-136-150-157-171 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4 mm and purl 1 row from the wrong side (bands are knitted). Then work the yoke as described below. YOKE: Work as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, A.1 over the next 112-119-126-140-147-161 stitches (= 16-17-18-20-21-23 repeats of 7 stitches) and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Work and increase as shown in A.1; the bands are continued in garter stitch. When A.1 has been completed there are 330-350-370-410-430-470 stitches on the needle. Continue with light brown until the piece measures 22-24-25-27-29-31 cm from the cast-on edge; on the last row increase 0-16-12-0-4-0 stitches evenly spaced = 330-366-382-410-434-470 stitches. The next row is worked as follows from the wrong side: Work the first 50-55-58-63-68-75 stitches in garter stitch and stocking stitch as before (= front piece), place the next 70-78-80-84-86-90 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve), work 90-100-106-116-126-140 stitches in stocking stitch as before (= back piece), place the next 70-78-80-84-86-90 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 new stitches on the needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the remaining 50-55-58-63-68-75 stitches in stocking stitch and garter stitch as before (= front piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 202-222-238-258-282-310 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread 53-58-62-67-73-80 stitches in from each side (= 96-106-114-124-136-150 stitches between marker threads on the back piece). Allow the threads to follow your work onwards; they will be used when increasing in the sides. Work stocking stitch back and forth with light brown and 5 band stitches in garter stitch on each side. When the piece measures 4 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP-2. Increase like this every 4 cm a total of 7 times on each side = 230-250-266-286-310-338 stitches. Continue working until the piece measures 37-37-38-38-38-38 cm from the division in all sizes (or to desired length; there is 4 cm left to finished length). Knit 1 row from the right side where you increase 46-50-54-58-62-70 stitches evenly spaced = 276-300-320-344-372-408 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work the next row as follows from the wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, work from *-* until there are 7 stitches left on the row, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. The jacket measures approx. 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm from the shoulder down. SLEEVE: Place the 70-78-80-84-86-90 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 76-84-88-92-96-100 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches under the sleeve. Allow the thread to follow your work onwards; it will be used when decreasing mid under sleeve. Start the round at the marker thread and work stocking stitch in the round with light brown. When the piece measures 3 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 2½-2-1½-1½-1½-1 cm a total of 12-15-16-17-18-19 times = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-36-35-34-33 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to wider neck and longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 8-10-8-10-8-10 stitches evenly spaced = 60-64-64-68-68-72 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 41-40-39-38-37-36 cm from the division. Work the other sleeve in the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew buttons onto left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (14)
Anna wrote:
Ska nu börja med dom första ökningarna. Jag ska få in 43 maskor på 118 maskor, 128 med knappkanten. Hur jag än räknar så får jag bara ihop 39 maskor. "När reåren är färdig stickas det 1 varv rätt från rätsidan där det ökas 18-21-24-34-33-43 maskor jämnt fördelat – läs ÖKNINGSTIPS-1 = 122-129-136-150-157-171 maskor. "
27.04.2022 - 20:40Rosie wrote:
Hi is the A1 pattern read from the RS, and when you get to the end of the row do you turn and purl back on the WS . Thanks Rosie
12.08.2021 - 21:53DROPS Design answered:
Dear Rosie, read diagram starting from bottom corner on the right side towards the left from the right side (= knittting all stitches) and read diagram from the left towards the right from the wrong side (= purling all stitches). Read even more about diagrams here. Happy knitting!
13.08.2021 - 07:30Susan wrote:
Is the rib on the neck part, front facing row - band stitches then k2, p2 until the last band part. Is the back facing row simply purl?
30.05.2021 - 09:54DROPS Design answered:
Dear Susan, yes, the neck, after the initial row of purls (from the wrong side) is 5 stitch (band) garter stitch, ribbing, and 5 stitch garter (band). On the wrong side 5 stitch (band) garter stitch, ribbing (as it shows), and 5 stitch garter (band). Happy Knitting!
30.05.2021 - 13:06Susan wrote:
I have never knitted anything in one round, or a pattern. where do i start putting the pattern in, i.e. how many rows do i do before i start the pattern, how many stitches in from the edge do i start the pattern?
29.05.2021 - 10:22DROPS Design answered:
Dear Susan, the piece is knitted with a round yoke, but it is a cardigan, only the sleeves are knitted on the round. Please read through the pattern and see the diagram, you start knitting the yoke (and the pattern) right after you finished the neck edge. Happy Knitting!
29.05.2021 - 11:14Allis wrote:
Jeg har en overvidde på 96 med bh og bluse på. Skal jeg vælge str. M eller L? Jeg bruger str. 38 i bukser. Er opskriften beregnet med "positiv ease" og i så fald hvor mange ekstra cm? Tak for hjælpen!
12.04.2021 - 10:59DROPS Design answered:
Hej Allis, du finder målene (på jakken) i måleskitsen nederst i opskriften. Brystmålet i skitsen ganger du med 2 for at få omkredsen. God fornøjelse!
12.04.2021 - 13:23KATHLEEN PENNY wrote:
I would like to purchase this pattern along with 207-27, 207-13 and 207-14 but I would like them as a paper pattern-I cannot see anywhere where I can buy then=m - I cannot download as I do not have a printer - Can you help me at all?
23.01.2021 - 16:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kathleen, our patterns are all of free access, therefore they are not for sale. Even if you don't have a printer, you can press the print button below the photo and, in your computer's printing window, select save as pdf.
23.01.2021 - 20:37Tanyuk wrote:
Hallo, wenn ich A1 fertig gestrickt habe bin ich schon bei einer Gesamthöhe von 24,5cm bei Gr.S. Also nicht 22cm wie beschrieben. Ich benutze das Originalgarn. Was mache ich nun?
18.11.2019 - 16:31DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Tanyuk, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Sie sollen 28 Reihen = 10 cm haben, Sie können mal mit einer dünneren Nadel versuchen, beachten Sie aber, daß Ihre Maschenprobe in der Breite immer stimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
18.11.2019 - 16:41Elizabeth Petrie wrote:
Your patterns and yarn suggestions are my go-to these days, but I have a question/comment. Drops Design seems to be the only company that uses letters to describe their yarn groups. I would very much like to see them correlated with the number system (000–6) that is predominant in North America. I spend a frustrating amount of time trying to consult various charts, gauge measurements, and so on. Please consider providing a chart or table with comparisons/equivalents. Thanks!
14.08.2019 - 23:20DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Petrie, you can find all these informations about each yarn in its shadecard as well as here - for any further assistance do not hesitate to contact the DROPS Stores in/shipping to Canada. Happy Knitting!
15.08.2019 - 10:15Rosa Mance wrote:
Thanks for sharing pattern and tutorials for a beautiful Nordic pattern. I can't wait to get started on it.
12.08.2019 - 21:18Jane Ellegaard wrote:
Der var en sommer cardigan med hulmønster som blomst den var gul.bliver den lagt ud med opskrift. Der var flere vi kunne stemme om modellerne fandt jeg på Pinterest.
08.08.2019 - 13:34DROPS Design answered:
Hej Jane, var det en af de her: gul cardigan
09.08.2019 - 08:47