DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk |
5.05 € /25g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Kid-Silk uni colour 75% Mohair, 25% Silk 5.05 € /25g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit from right side, purl from wrong side | |
= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over | |
= knit 2 together | |
= slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Violet Meadow Cardigan |
|||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
Knitted jacket in 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. The piece is worked bottom up with V-neck and puffed sleeves. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 230-56 |
|||||||||||||
------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth): Knit all rows. 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. PATTERN: See diagram A.1. The diagram shows all rows in the pattern from the right side. BUTTONHOLES: Work the buttonholes on the right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = Knit together the third and fourth stitch from the edge and make 1 yarn over. On the next row knit the yarn over to leave a hole. Work the buttonholes when the piece measures: S: 6, 17 and 28 cm M: 6, 17 and 29 cm L: 6, 18 and 30 cm XL: 6, 14, 22 and 31 cm XXL: 6, 14, 23 and 32 cm XXXL: 6, 8, 24 and 33 cm DECREASE TIP (V-neck) All decreases are worked from the right side: LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work until there are 7 stitches left, knit 2 together, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Work 5 band stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JACKET – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The jacket is worked in sections back and forth and bottom up, then sewn together. BACK PIECE: Cast on 93-103-113-125-135-149 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 2 strands DROPS Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, knit 1 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 16-20-22-26-26-30 stitches evenly spaced = 77-83-91-99-109-119 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Continue with stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch on each side. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-3-4-5-7-9 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-4-4 times on each side = 59-61-63-65-67-69 stitches. When the piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, work 2 ridges over the middle 33-35-37-37-39-41 stitches. On the next row cast off the middle 21-23-25-25-27-29 stitches for the neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then cast off 1 stitch on the next row from the neck = 18-18-18-19-19-19 stitches on the shoulder. Continue with 5 garter stitches towards the neck and the other stitches as before. Cast off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 52-56-62-68-72-80 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * purl 1, knit 1 * work from *-* until there are 5 stitches left, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 9-10-12-14-13-16 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the band) = 43-46-50-54-59-64 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work stocking stitch until there are 5 stitches left, 5 band stitches in garter stitch. You will now decrease for the neck and armhole at the same time; read the next section before continuing: V-NECK: When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 5 band stitches mid-front – read DECREASE TIP. Repeat this decrease every 1 cm a total of 16-17-18-18-19-20 times. ARMHOLE: When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece. When all the decreases are finished there are 18-18-18-19-19-19 stitches on the shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Cast on 52-56-62-68-72-80 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 * work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 4 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side where you decrease 9-10-12-14-13-16 stitches evenly spaced (do not decrease over the band) = 43-46-50-54-59-64 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Work the next row from the right side as follows: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, work stocking stitch until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When the piece measures 6 cm, start working the BUTTONHOLES – read description above. You will now decrease for the neck and armhole at the same time; read the next section before continuing: V-NECK: When the piece measures 29-30-31-32-33-34 cm, decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 5 band stitches mid-front. Repeat this decrease every 1 cm a total of 16-17-18-18-19-20 times. ARMHOLE: When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for the armhole in the same way as on the back piece. When all the decreases are finished there are 18-18-18-19-19-19 stitches on the shoulder. Cast off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm. SHORT PUFFED SLEEVES: Cast on 48-50-52-54-56-58 stitches with circular needle size 4 mm and 2 strands Kid-Silk. Purl 1 row from the wrong side. The next row is worked as follows from the right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 1, purl 1 *, work from *-* until there is 1 stitch left, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 3 cm. Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 13 stitches evenly spaced = 61-63-65-67-69-71 stitches. Knit 1 row from the wrong side. Change to circular needle size 5 mm. On the next row from the right side work as follows: Knit 12-13-11-12-10-11, work the next 36-36-42-42-48-48 stitches and increase 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches over these stitches by making 1 yarn over after every 3rd stitch, knit the last 13-14-12-13-11-12 stitches = 73-75-79-81-85-87 stitches. On the next row, purl the yarn overs twisted. Work pattern on the next row from the right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-2-3-5-2 stitches in stocking stitch, work A.1 8-9-9-9-9-10 times, 4-1-3-4-6-3 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern and A.1 onwards. When the piece measures 9 cm cast off 4 stitches at the beginning of the next 2 rows. When the piece measures 10 cm decrease 2 stitches on each side by knitting together the first 3 stitches and the last 3 stitches on the row (the stitches which now do not fit into the pattern are worked in stocking stitch). Repeat this decrease every 8th-8th-6th-6th-6th-6th row a total of 3-3-4-4-4-4 times = 53-55-55-57-61-63 stitches. When the piece measures 20-20-21-22-24-25 cm knit 1 row and decrease 2-4-1-3-1-3 stitches evenly spaced on this row = 51-51-54-54-60-60 stitches. On the next row purl all stitches together 3 and 3 = 17-17-18-18-20-20 stitches. Cast off. The sleeve measures approx. 21-21-22-23-25-26 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in the sleeves. Sew the sleeve and side seams inside the 1 edge stitch. Sew the buttons onto the left band. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (20)
Cindy Braeckman wrote:
Als de mouw 9cm meet wordt er afgekant voor de mouwkop. En als het werk 21cm meet wordt alles afgekant. Met andere woorden, de mouwkop heeft een hoogte van 12cm? Hoe moet ik die dan passen in de mouwopening van 20cm?
04.06.2024 - 18:55Camo Krage wrote:
Er der ikke fejl i mønsterforklaringen- der er to tegn for slå om for ekstra maske men ikke forklaring af indtag. Mangler beskrivelsen af halskanten ikke også? Hvor mange masker skal tages op for half kant? På forhånd tak.
15.01.2024 - 09:35DROPS Design answered:
Hej Camo, så er diagramteksten rettet - tak for info :)
16.01.2024 - 14:23Daphne wrote:
I would like to see a picture of the back. I don't understand what it's supposed to look like at the neck.
16.09.2023 - 23:11DROPS Design answered:
Dear Daphne, we don't have any pictures of the back; all of the available photos have been posted online. The neck edge on the back is the last section of the back: an edge worked in garter stitch and it should have a round shape and go right around the neck at the back. Happy knitting!
17.09.2023 - 23:29Joan wrote:
The V neck shaping says ‘decrease 1 stitch for the neck inside the 5 band stitches mid front’. Does this mean decrease at stitches 6&7? What does mid front mean?
14.06.2023 - 21:39DROPS Design answered:
Hi Joan, The increases are after the first band and before the last band, so th 6th stitch at the beginning of the row and the 6th-to-last stitch at the end of the row. Happy knitting!
15.06.2023 - 08:34Davina wrote:
Hi there, Please advise, when it says ‘ When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35-36 cm, cast off for the armholes at the beginning of each row as follows: 3 stitches 1 time, 2 stitches 2-3-4-5-7-9 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-4-4-4 times on each side = 59-61-63-65-67-69 stitches.’ The ‘CO 3 stitches 1 time’ is this only at the beginning of 1 row, ie one side? Thank you,
23.04.2023 - 21:46DROPS Design answered:
Hi davina, No, the cast off stitches are symmetrical, so at the beginning of every row, and each number of stitches is repeated on both the right and wrong side before starting the next number of stitches. In other words you cast off 3 stitches one time on each side, then 2 stitches the correct number of times on each side. Happy knitting!
24.04.2023 - 06:49Raquel wrote:
Hola! Cuando la labor mida 9 cm cerrar 4 puntos al inicio de las siguientes 2 filas. Cuando la labor mida 10 cm disminuir 2 puntos a cada lado trabajando juntos de derecho los primeros 3 puntos y los últimos 3 puntos en la fila. 1. No entiendo como cerrar los cuatro puntos, cierro 4 en el derecho y 4 en el revés ? O 4 al inicio de cada derecho? En total son 8 puntos cerrados? 2. Tampoco entiendo lo de “2 puntos a cada lado… Gracias!
20.04.2023 - 02:15DROPS Design answered:
Hola Raquel, sí, son 4 puntos por el lado derecho y 4 pts por el lado revés, así que en total 8x2 = 16 puntos (1 fila es tanto por el lado derecho como por el lado revés). 2 pts a cada lado quiere decir 2 pts al inicio y al final de la fila, así que los primeros 3 pts y los últimos 3 pts de cada fila se trabajan juntos de derecho, disminuyendo 2 pts a cada lado.
23.04.2023 - 19:59MARIE ROMAN wrote:
C'est un joli modèle - je voudrais le tricoter avec des aiguilles droites - pouvez-vous m'envoyer explications - Merci beaucoup -
03.09.2022 - 11:53DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Roman, ce modèle se tricote en différentes parties assemblées entre elles à la fin, chaque pièce se tricote en allers et retours sur aiguille circulaire pour avoir suffisamment de place pour y loger toutes les mailles, vous pouvez ainsi simplement utiliser des aiguilles droites. Découvrez ici comment adapter un modèle sur aiguilles droites. Bon tricot!
05.09.2022 - 08:52Susan Huddleston wrote:
Please would you convert your sizes for the Violet Meadow Cardigan into inches as I cannot find these measurements anywhere and forward to my email address, thank you.
24.06.2022 - 14:59DROPS Design answered:
Dear Susan, the measurements are located in the measurements schematic under the pattern; choose the number according to your size. You can see how to read this schematic here: https://www.garnstudio.com/lesson.php?id=24&cid=19 These measurements are in cm, you can convert them to inches here:https://www.garnstudio.com/conversions.php?cid=19 Happy knitting!
26.06.2022 - 13:19Bertha Hernandez wrote:
Esta muy lindo este modelo lo estoy elaborando para mi nieta solo no entiendo lo de la hebra entre dos puntos es una lazada por favor me ayuda muchas gracias
25.05.2022 - 13:01DROPS Design answered:
Hola Bertha, si, la hebra entre dos puntos es una lazada. Trabajas 1 derecho, lazada, 1 derecho.
25.05.2022 - 20:20Christine Corneillie wrote:
Beste, ik zou graag het model 230-56 breien .Maat M . er staat 150 gram .Is dat voldoende om het pull met 2 draden te breien met naald 5?
21.05.2022 - 18:29DROPS Design answered:
Dag Christine,
Ja hoor, dat is genoeg. Kid Silk is heel dun en licht garen, waardoor je niet veel gram nodig hebt. Een bol weegt 25 gram, dus je hebt dan 5 bollen nodig.
23.05.2022 - 17:06