Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Mom and Me |
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DROPS Shrug in Paris for Women and Girls
DROPS 89-13 |
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WOMEN’S SIZES: Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *. Note on the diagram: The shrug is knit from cuff to cuff. The diagram shows the shrug after assembly – that is, with the sleeve seam sewn. The dotted line indicates the center back – the sloping line indicates the front edge. Right side: Loosely cast on 50-50-56-56-56 sts on larger needles. P 1 row (wrong side), then knit rib, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When the piece measures 12 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 42-42-47-47-47 sts. Continue the rib with K 3/P 2. When the piece measures 18 cm K 1 row (right side row), then K 1 row (wrong side), adjusting (inc/dec as needed) to 42-42-46-48-48 sts, then continue in stockinette st. When the piece measures 20-20-20-25-21 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 12-14-14-15-17 times = 66-70-74-78-82 sts. After last inc the piece measures 53 cm, put 1 marker at each side – measure the piece from here. Now dec at one side of piece (= front) at the same time cast on new sts at the other side of piece (= back) as follows: At front edge: on 1st row bind off 3 sts, then bind off every other row: 3 sts 3 times and 2 sts 9-10-11-12-13 times, then every 4 rows: 1 st 3 times. At back edge: inc every other row: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 5-6-7-6-9 times, then every 4 rows: 1 st 4-4-4-5-4 times. After all incs and decs there are 48-51-54-56-60 sts. When the piece measures 18-19-20-21-22 cm put 10 sts on a st holder from lower edge of back up toward the neck every other row 4 times = 8-11-14-16-20 sts remain on needles. The shrug is now knit to the center back (halfway). Place a new marker at center back of neck. Knit 1 row stockinette st over all sts on needles, then knit the other half, reversing shaping as follows: put 10 sts back on needles every other row 4 times = 48-51-54-56-60 sts. When sts are put back on needles pick up 1 st between the last st on needles the first st on st holder, K tog this st with the first st on st holder. This prevents a hole where the sts are returned to the needles. When the piece measures 5 cm from the marker in back of the neck inc/cast on for front (= the side of piece you previously bound off) every 4 rows: 1 st 3 times, then every other row: 2 sts 9-10-11-12-13 times and 3 sts 4 times. At the same time, when the piece measures 8 cm from the marker in back of the neck dec for back (= the side you previously increased) every 4 rows: 1 st 4-4-4-5-4 times, then every other row: 1 st 5-6-7-6-9 times and 2 sts 3 times. After all incs and decs are complete there are 66-70-74-78-82 sts. Put a marker at each side – measure the work from here. Now dec 1 st at each side every 3-2.5-2.5-2-2 cm a total of 12-14-14-15-17 times = 42-42-46-48-48 sts. When the piece measures 34 cm P 1 row (right side) and P 1 row (wrong side), adjusting (inc/dec as needed) to 42-42-47-47-47 sts. Now knit rib (= K 3/P 2) keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When cuff measures 6 cm from the P rows inc all P 2 to P 3 = 50-50-56-56-56 sts. When cuff measures 18 cm from the P rows K 1 row (right side) and then bind off loosely. Assembly: Sew sleeve seams using edge sts as seam allowance, up to markers. Pick up sts around opening = 180-195-210-225-225 sts (divisible by 15) on smaller circular needles. If you pick up more or less sts, adjust on the 2nd row evenly distributed. Join and knit in the round as follows (seen from the right side): P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit rib (= K 3/P 2). When edge measures 2 cm inc every 3rd P 2 to P 3 = 192-208-224-240-240 sts. Repeat inc when edge measures 5 and 8 cm, so that each P 2 is now P 3 = 216-234-252-270-270 sts. Bind off loosely in rib. GIRLS’ SIZES: Sizes: 5/6 years - 7/8 years - 9/10 years - 11/12 years -13/14 years Finished measurements: Wrist to center back: 54-59-64-68-72 cm [21.25" - 23.25" - 25.25" - 26.75" - 28.25"] Underarm to center back: 17-18-19-20-21 cm [6.75" - 7" - 7.5" - 7-⅞" - 8.25"] Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio 250-250-250-300-300 gr nr 05, light lilac DROPS 5 mm [US 8] needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge. DROPS 4.5 mm [US 7] circular needles (for rib edge), or sizes needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 17 sts x 22 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat * - *. Note on the diagram: The shrug is knit from cuff to cuff. The diagram shows the shrug after assembly – that is, with the sleeve seam sewn. The dotted line indicates the center back – the sloping line indicates the front edge. Right side: Loosely cast on 38-44-44-50-50 sts on larger needles. P 1 row (wrong side), then continue in rib, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When the piece measures 6 cm dec all P 3 to P 2 = 32-37-37-42-42 sts. Continue the rib with K 3/P 2. When the piece measures 10 cm K 1 row (right side) and K 1 row (wrong side), decreasing evenly distributed to 28-30-32-32-34 sts, then continue in stockinette st. When the piece measures 13-14-13-15-15 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3-3-3.5-3-3 cm a total of 9-10-10-12-13 times = 46-50-52-56-60 sts. After last inc the piece measures approx. 37-41-45-48-51 cm, put 1 marker at each side – measure the piece from here. Now dec at one side of piece (= front) at the same time cast on new sts at the other side of piece (= back) as follows: At front edge: on 1st row bind off 3 sts, then bind off every other row: 2 sts 5-6-6-7-8 times and 1 st 10-10-11-11-11 times. At back edge: inc every other row: 2 sts 2-3-4-5-5 times and then every 4 rows: 1 st 5-5-5-5-6 times. After all decs and incs are complete there are 32-36-39-43-46 sts. When the piece measures 14-15-16-17-18 cm put sts onto a st holder from lower edge of back up toward the neck every other row: 8-9-10-11-11 sts 3 times = 8-9-9-10-13 sts remain on needles. The shrug is now knit to the center back (halfway). Place a new marker at center back of neck. Knit 1 row stockinette st over all sts on needles, then knit the other half, reversing shaping as follows: Put 8-9-10-11-11 sts back on needles every other row 3 times = 32-36-39-43-46 sts. When sts are put back on needles pick up 1 st between the last st on needles the first st on st holder, K tog this st with the first st on st holder. This prevents a hole where the sts are returned to the needles. When the piece measures 3 cm from the marker in back of the neck inc for front (= the side you previously bound off) every other row: 1 st 10-10-11-11-11 times, 2 sts 5-6-6-7-8 times and 3 sts 1 time. At the same time when the piece measures 6 cm from the marker in back of the neck dec for back (= the side you previously increased) every 4 rows: 1 st 5-5-5-5-6 times and then every other row: 2 sts 2-3-4-5-5 times. After all incs and decs are complete 46-50-52-56-60 sts. Put 1 marker at each side – measure the piece from here. Now dec 1 st at each side every 3-3-3.5-3-3 cm a total of 9-10-10-12-13 times = 28-30-32-32-34 sts. When the piece measures 26-30-34-37-40 cm, P 1 row (right side), then P 1 row (wrong side), increasing to 32-37-37-42-42 sts. Now knit rib (= K 3/ P 2), keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When cuff measures 4 cm from the P rows inc all P 2 to P 3 = 38-44-44-50-50 sts. When cuff measures 10 cm from the P rows P 1 row (wrong side) and then bind off loosely. Assembly: Sew sleeve seams using edge sts as seam allowance, up to markers. Pick up sts around opening = 135-150-165-180-180 sts (divisible by 15) on smaller circular needles. If you pick up more or less sts, adjust on the 2nd row evenly distributed. Join and knit in the round as follows (seen from the right side): P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit rib (= K 3/P 2). When edge measures 2 cm inc every 3rd P 2 to P 3 = 144-160-176-192-192 sts. Repeat inc when edge measures 5 and 8 cm, so that each P 2 is now P 3 = 162-180-198-216-216 sts. Bind off loosely in rib. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (56)
Lewandoski Carine wrote:
Bonjour je ne comprends pas comment mettre en attente les 10 m côté dos 4 fois tous les 2 rangs.
05.05.2024 - 10:39DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lewandoski, en début de rang à partir du dos, tricotez 10 mailles, mettez ces 10 mailles en attente, terminez le rang comme avant, tournez, tricotez le rang suivant; tricotez 4 fois au total ces 2 rangs (vous avez mais 4 x 10 m en attente). Bon tricot!
06.05.2024 - 09:29Patricia wrote:
Thank you for your reply. As the bolero is knit from cuff to cuff I am having trouble making the cuffs look the same. First cuff, long tail cast on, purl one row then rib etc. .. second cuff rib … purl 1 row bind off. What bind off do you recommend that matches the long tail cast on? Many thanks!
27.03.2024 - 03:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Patricia, the truth to be told, there is no cast off, especially knitted ones that gives you the exact looks as a cast on. However, you can try the italian cast off , which is a sewn cast off, that looks the most similar (and gives you the most similar flexibility) to a cast on. there is a tutorial video HERE, that can help you to see how to do that. Happy Knitting!
27.03.2024 - 10:09Patricia wrote:
What cast on and bind off did you use on the cuffs of the Mom and Me shrug that match? Thank you!
26.03.2024 - 12:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Patricia, it is actually up to you, you can use the cast on you prefer, but we generally suggest using the long tail cast on, and the edge of the bolero should be cast off according to the ribbing, knit stitches with knit, purl stitches with purl. Happy Knitting!
26.03.2024 - 22:01Dorthe Sonne wrote:
Findes der en video som viser hvordan I gør i afsnit 4. Altså der hvor 8 masker 3 gange sættes på tråd. \r\nNår de skal tilbage foreslås at der samles en maske op imellem p og tråd for at undgå huller. Jeg får kæmpe huller? Videoer jeg kan finde viser den metode man bruger ved feks hæl.
21.03.2024 - 12:48Anegret wrote:
Ja genau das war meine Frage: Der 2. Maschenmarkierer ist die Mitte des Boleros. Zwischen der Mitte und den Zunahmen auf der rechten Seite sind ca 12 cm. Jetzt sollen auf der linken Seite die Zunahmen (10 M usw) bereits 3 cm nach dem Maschenmarkierer beginnen. Das kann nicht symmetrisch sein?
29.08.2023 - 19:14DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Angret, die Zunahmen bei der 1. Hälfte (Rückenteil) sind fertig vor den Abketten für das Vorderteil, deshalb beginnen die Abnahmen für das Rückenteil 3 cm nach der Markierung bzw nach den Zunahmen für das Vorderteil. So werden beide Hälfte symmetrisch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.08.2023 - 09:44Anegret wrote:
Ich stricke die Kinder Version für 9/10 Jahre: vom Ärmelende bis zur Mitte sind es 16 cm. Dann wird ein Maschenmarkierer gesetzt und Maschen stillgelegt, dann wieder gestrickt usw. Nachher ist angeführt, dass man nach 6 cm nach Maschenmarkierer gegengleich arbeitet: oben 10 Maschen aufnimmt usw. Warum nach 6 cm ab Maschenmarkerer und nicht wieder nach 16 cm? Ich versteh das leider nicht. Danke
26.08.2023 - 23:03DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Anegret, die Zunahmen beim Vorderteil beginnen nach 3 cm und die Abketten für das Rückenteil nach 6 cm damit beide Seiten symmetrisch sind. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
28.08.2023 - 14:13Anneleen De Broeck wrote:
Can the part about the short rows be rephrased as: Knit 3 short rows along the lower 28 stitches (in girls size 7-8)?
21.06.2022 - 13:12DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs De Broeck, do you mean when piece measures 15 cm? Then it's not right, you have to work short rows working from bottom/back piece towards top/front piece leaving 10 sts unworked (= towards top/front), turn and work row back, and work next row leaving 10 more sts unworked, repeat these 2 rows until you have worked 2 rows over the remaining 11 sts at the bottom/back side, now work the short rows reversed, ie work 10 more sts on every row from bottom towards top until all stitches are worked. Happy knitting!
21.06.2022 - 14:03Sylvia Moritz wrote:
I am making the girls shrug. Size 11/12. I am up to the part of the pattern where I am increasing on one row and decreasing on another. It says skip a row where exactly are the decreases and increases. It seems that the increases or decreases happen on right side or wrong side. This pattern is so confusing. Please help.
03.10.2021 - 00:46DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Moritz, in 11/12, when piece measures 48 cm, cast off/decrease on right side of piece (= seen from RS = beg of row from RS) for the front piece and at the same time cast on new sts/increase on the left side of piece (seen from RS = end of row from RS) for the back piece. From WS work all sts as before. When dec/inc on every 4th row, dec/inc on every other row from WS (= 3 row without inc/dec, inc/dec on next row). Hope this will help!
04.10.2021 - 08:20Linda wrote:
Thank you for suggesting using a stitch holder when working short rows. I'd never thought of this, such a simple suggestion but so very, very helpful. I like your way of increasing too. Here in the UK we're told to knit into the back of the loop below but not to make a yarn over on the row before, this makes life so much easier.
07.05.2021 - 16:09Nanna wrote:
Jeg synes kun at det er under montering at der står at man skal skifte pind i ribben, kan det være rigtigt? I starten af opskriften, skal man så slå op på pind 5 samt fortsætte rib på samme pind, eller skifte? Jeg glæder mig til at komme igang med den!
26.08.2020 - 21:52