Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Angel Falls |
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Knitted DROPS dress in garter st with rib and raglan, worked top down in ”Karisma”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 156-3 |
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GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. RAGLAN: Inc on each side of marker as follows: Work until 2 sts before 1st marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 3 sts before 2nd marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 2 sts before 3rd marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, continue until 3 sts before 4th marker, 1 YO, K 5, 1 YO, work the rest of round (= 8 sts inc on round). On next round K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. DECREASE TIP: Dec on each side of marker as follows: Work until 3 sts before marker, K 2 tog, K 2 (marker is between these sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. ---------------------------------------------------------- DRESS: Worked top down in the round on circular needle. YOKE: Cast on 126-126-132-132-136-136 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Karisma. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST – see explanation above, AT THE SAME TIME on last round in garter st inc 24-24-24-26-26-26 sts evenly on round = 150-150-156-158-162-162 sts. Now work an elevation in the back of neck in garter st as follows: Work 10-10-12-12-14-14 sts, turn, work 20-20-24-24-28-28 sts, turn, work 25-25-29-29-33-33 sts, turn, work 30-30-34-34-38-38 sts, turn. Continue like this by working 5 sts more on every turn until 70-70-74-74-78-78 sts are worked. Turn and work back to beg of round. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work as follows from mid back: 21-21-22-23-24-24 sts in stocking st, insert 1st marker, 34 sts in stocking st, insert 2nd marker, 41-41-44-45-47-47 sts in stocking st, insert 3rd marker, 34 sts in stocking st, insert 4th marker, 20-20-22-22-23-23 sts in stocking st. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME on next round beg inc for RAGLAN – see explanation above! Repeat inc every round 7-12-15-21-27-37 more times, every other round 5-4-4-4-4-3 times and every 3rd round 5-5-5-4-3-1 times = 294-326-356-398-442-498 sts. When all inc are done and piece measures 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm from shoulder, work as follows: Work 39-43-47-53-59-66 sts (= half back piece), slip the next 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts on 1 stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these 8 sts, work 77-85-94-105-117-131 sts (= front piece), slip the next 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts on a stitch holder (= sleeve), cast on 8 new sts for armhole, insert a marker in the middle of these 8 sts, work the remaining 38-42-47-52-58-65 sts (= half back piece). BODY: There are now 170-186-204-226-250-278 sts for body. Now work 1 round in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME dec 30-32-36-40-44-50 sts evenly = 140-154-168-186-206-228 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm. Then work in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm from the new sts under sleeves, dec 1 st on each side of marker in each side of piece – READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 2-2½-2½-2½-3-3½ cm 3 more times = 124-138-152-170-190-212 sts on round. When piece measures 13-14-15-16-17-18 cm from new sts under sleeve, work in stocking st AT THE SAME TIME inc 26-32-38-40-40-48 sts evenly = 150-170-190-210-230-260 sts. Continue to work rib as follows: K 1, P 3, * K 2, P 3 *, repeat from *-* the entire round until 1 st remains, K 1. When rib has been worked for 7 cm, inc 1 st in every other repetition with P sts (= 15-17-19-21-23-26 sts inc) = 165-187-209-231-253-286 sts. When rib has been worked for 14 cm, inc the same way in every repetition with 4 P sts (= 15-17-19-21-23-26 sts inc) = 180-204-228-252-276-312 sts. Continue like this until rib has been worked for 24-25-26-27-28-29 cm. On next round switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 30-26-12-8-4-4 sts = 210-230-240-260-280-316 sts. Continue in stocking st for 19 cm. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work 3 ridges. Loosely cast off. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Slip the 70-78-84-94-104-118 sts back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Work in stocking st over all sts and cast on 8 sts under sleeve = 78-86-92-102-112-126 sts. Insert a marker in the middle of the new sts. On first round dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every other round 7 more times = 62-70-76-86-96-110 sts. Then dec every 5½-3½-3-2-1½-1 cm 7-10-12-16-21-27 times = 48-50-52-54-54-56 sts. When sleeve measures 45-45-44-44-44-44 cm from marker mid under sleeve, switch to needle size 3.5 mm and work in garter st for 8 cm. Cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (104)
Daniela wrote:
Hallo, in der Anleitung für steht, dass ich für die Raglanzunahmen in jeder Runde mit einem Umschlag vor und nach dem Markierer zunehmen soll. In der nächsten Runde habe ich dann ja wieder diese Zunahmen und gleichzeitig noch die Umschläge aus den Zunahmen der Vorrunde, die ich re verschränkt stricken soll. Dadurch entstehen bei mir aber Löcher. Sollen die Zunahmen am Anfang wirklich in jeder Runde und nicht in jeder zweiten Runde, wenn ich die Umschläge schon verstrickt habe, gemacht werden?
16.09.2015 - 10:59DROPS Design answered:
Es sollten keine Löcher entstehen, denn Sie stricken die Umschläge ja verschränkt ab, dies dient der Lochvermeidung. Verschränkt bedeutet ja, dass Sie in das hintere M-Glied einstechen und nicht in das vordere. Die Zunahmen erfolgen am Anfang in der Tat in jeder Rd, erst danach in jeder 2. Rd.
20.09.2015 - 12:18Mara wrote:
Da ich nicht besonders groß bin (1,58m) und einen sehr schmalen Oberkörper habe, habe ich die Sorge, dass mir das Kleid auch in Größe S gestrickt zu groß sein könnte. Nun kam mir der Gedanke einfach ein feiners Garn zu verwenden und das Kleid mit 3,0 und 3,5 Nadeln zu stricken. Oder sollte ich besser die Nadelstärken beibehalten und die Maschenzahlen reduzieren? Freue mich über eine Antwort und wünsche schon einmal einen Guten Start ins Neue Jahr Herzliche Grüße Mara
29.12.2014 - 18:56DROPS Design answered:
Die Maße des Kleides finden Sie ganz unten in der Maßskizze. Der Schnitt des Kleides bleibt besser bewahrt, wenn Sie die Nadelstärke verringern und nicht die M-Zahl. Sie müssen aber bei diesem Modell unbedingt beachten, dass Sie dann bei der Passe mehr Zwischenreihen ohne Zunahmen benötigen, damit die Passe und damit die Ärmelhöhe lang genug werden. Machen Sie vorher unbedingt eine Maschenprobe und errechnen Sie, auf welche Maße Sie kommen, auch bei der Länge der Passe.
30.12.2014 - 17:37Iris Bellekens wrote:
Ribbelsteek is gewoon rechts breien ( 6 naalden rechts breien) naald r en naald av is tricotsteek.
24.12.2014 - 14:49Patricia wrote:
Ich bin an der Stelle, wo ich von einer Seite bis 70m ( in Größe m) gestrickt habe und nun zu den markieren resp. der Zunahme der Raglanärmel komme. Ich habe nun ja aber gar keine Runden mehr sondern auf einer Seite meiner Rundstricknadel (links) eine ca. 3x so hohe Arbeit wie rechts. Wenn ich nun Runden stricke gibt es es Loch, wo die Arbeit nicht zusammen kommt...Muss das so sein, oder was könnte da nicht stimmen.
04.12.2014 - 13:40DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Patricia, bitte schauen Sie sich alle Videos zum Thema verkürzte Reihen an. Ich vermute, dass sich dann Ihr Problem löst. Die Stelle, die Sie beschriben sind die verkürzten Reihen (damit der hintere Ausschnitt weniger tief wird als vorne). Der Höhenunterschied ist nicht links und rechts, sondern die grösste Höhe ist in der Mitte und läuft sanft nach den Seiten aus.
12.01.2015 - 08:35Dorte Geertsen wrote:
Jeg kan se på tråden, at andre har haft det samme problem: Jeg er færdig med raglanudtagningerne, men jeg kan ikke finde ud af, hvor jeg skal måle de 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm henne. Jeg strikker str. L pg skal altså finde et sted, hvor arbejdet er 23 cm, g det er det ikke uanset hvor, jeg måler. Jeg forstår heller ikke, hvad måltegningens angivelse af målet 8 cm. øverst på skulderen er? Jeg har tjekket min strikkefasthed, og den passer begge retninger. HJÆLP!
24.11.2014 - 11:17DROPS Design answered:
Hej Dorte, Du måler fra skulderen og ned til der hvor du er kommet i arbejdet. Rygstykket går højrer op bagpå end forstykket. God fornøjelse!
28.11.2014 - 15:45Grete wrote:
Hvorfor finnes ikke denne til barn? Den hadde vært topp til min jente på 11.
26.10.2014 - 21:09DROPS Design answered:
Hei Grete. Nei, desvaerre ikke. Men vi skal saette den paa önskelisten.
27.10.2014 - 17:49Alexandra wrote:
Hallo, ich bin gerade mit der Raglanzunahme fertig und es heißt, das man ab der Schulter min. 21 cm haben soll (Größe S). Wo mess ich die 21cm? hinten, vorne, an der Armseite?
06.10.2014 - 23:12DROPS Design answered:
Sie messen an der Armseite senkrecht nach unten, denn hier befindet sich ja die Schulter. Werfen Sie am besten auch einen Blick in die Maßskizze, dann wird es vielleicht noch etwas klarer (8 cm + 13 cm = 21 cm).
07.10.2014 - 14:16Marie wrote:
Hei, jeg er litt usikker på denne setningen under "Bærestk": Når alle økninger er ferdige og arb måler 21-22-23-24-25-26 cm fra skulderen strikkes det slik: I hvilken retning skal det måles? På figuren ser det ut til å være på tvers av rundene, men det er uklart for meg hvor målet fra skulderen skal starte?
02.10.2014 - 22:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej Marie. Du maaler lige ned fra skulderen.
03.10.2014 - 16:15Diana Molepo wrote:
Thanks for this pattern! After reading most of the comments, I'm wondering if there are errors in the pattern or not. I would love to knit this beautiful tunic.
21.09.2014 - 17:27DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Molepo, pattern should be correct, but should you have any questions when working on this, please feel free to ask your questions here. Happy knitting!
22.09.2014 - 10:14Ruth wrote:
Ich habe eine Frage: ich bin an der Stelle in der Anleitung, an der ich die 15x Raglanzunahmen gestrickt habe. Nun steht in der Beschreibung: danach in jeder 2.Rd 4 x arbeiten und danach in jeder 3. Rd 5. Was ist damit gemeint? Bisher habe ich 15 Runden lang eine ganze Runde lang jeweils wie angegebn die Raglanzunahmen gestrickt. Danke!
28.08.2014 - 15:46DROPS Design answered:
Sie müssen insgesamt 16x in jeder Rd zunehmen, nicht nur 15x ("noch weitere 15x wdh"). Dann stricken Sie die Raglanzunahmen nicht mehr in jeder Rd, sondern nur noch in jeder 2. Rd, d.h. es ist eine Rd dazwischen, die Sie ohne Raglanzunahmen stricken. Das machen Sie 4x. Dann stricken Sie die Zunahmen nur noch in jeder 3. Rd, d.h. Sie haben 2 Rd ohne Zunahmen dazwischen. Das machen Sie 5x. Insgesamt ergeben sich damit 39 Rd.
30.08.2014 - 15:25