DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 53% Cotton, 47% Linen |
3.45 $ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Bomull-Lin uni colour 53% Cotton, 47% Linen 3.45 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
All measurements in charts are in cm.
= white Paris | |
= dark beige Paris | |
= light ice blue Paris | |
= light beige Bomull-Lin |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Phyllis |
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DROPS Pullover and Purse in Paris and Bomull-Lin
DROPS 77-17 |
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PULLOVER: Gauge: 16 sts x 20 rows = 10 x 10 cm with Paris on larger needles in stockinette st. Rib: Row 1: * K 2, P 1 *, repeat from * - *. Row 2: * P 2, K 1 *, repeat from * - *. Pattern: See chart. The pattern is knit entirely in stockinette st. Reverse crochet: Crochet sc from right side of work from left to right. Front: Cast on 65-71-77-83-92 sts on smaller needles with white Paris. Knit 4 rows rib keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st. Change to larger needles and stockinette st and follow Pattern 1 to finished measurements. When the piece measures 9 cm inc 1 st at each side every 6 cm a total of 4 times = 73-79-85-91-100 sts. When the piece measures 31-32-33-34-35 cm bind off for armhole at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 0-1-1-2-3 times and 1 st 3-3-2-3-4 times = 59-61-63-63-66 sts. When the piece measures 44-46-48-50-52 cm bind off the center 19-19-21-21-22 sts for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2 times = 11-12-12-12-13 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front. Bind off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 48-50-52-54-56 cm bind off the center 33-33-35-35-36 sts for the neck. Then bind off 2 sts at each neck edge on the next row = 11-12-12-12-13 sts remain on each shoulder. Bind off when the piece measures 50-52-54-56-58 cm. Sleeve: Cast on 38-38-41-41-44 sts on smaller needles with white Paris. Knit 4 rows rib. Change to larger needles and stockinette st and follow Pattern 1 to finished measurements. When the piece measures 12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 4-3-3-2.5-2 cm a total of 9-11-11-13-14 times = 56-60-63-67-72 sts. When sleeve measures 47-46-45-44-43 cm bind off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 1-2-3-5-6 times, then bind off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 54-54-54-55-55 cm, then bind off 3 sts at each side 1 time. The piece measures approx. 55-55-55-56-56 cm, bind off the remaining sts. Assembly: Sew right shoulder. Neckband: Pick up approx. 100-110 sts around the neck on smaller needles with white Paris. Knit 1 wrong side row and then bind off from right side with a knit row. Sew left shoulder and up neckband. Work 1 row reverse crochet (see instructions above) around neckband with white Paris. Sew in sleeves. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. PURSE: Size: Width: approx. 30 cm [11.75"] Height: approx. 40 cm [15.75"] Materials: Garnstudio PARIS 100% cotton, 50 g/75 m./82 yards 100 gr nr 26, beige. 100 gr nr 29, light ice blue. 50 gr nr 16, white. and use: Garnstudio BOMULL-LIN 53% Egyptian cotton, 47% linen, 50 g./85 m./93 yds 150 gr nr 03 oatmeal Alternate yarns for both yarns: see list for the pullover DROPS 7 mm [US 10½] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. DROPS 4 mm [US ] crochet hook, or size needed to obtain correct gauge. Gauge: 12 sts in width with 1 strand Paris + 1 strand Bomull-Lin in stockinette st = 10 cm. Double Seed Stitch (on an even number of sts): Row 1: * K 1, P 1 * Row 2: * K 1, P 1 * Row 3: * P 1, K 1 * Row 4: * P 1, K 1 * Repeat Rows 1 4. Garter st, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows. Rib: * K 3, P 3 *, repeat from * - *. Purse: The purse is made in two pieces and sewn together; the squares are crocheted separately and sewn onto the knitted purse afterwards. 1st side: Cast on 38 sts with 1 strand beige Paris + 1 strand Bomull-Lin. Knit double seed st - see instructions above. When the piece measures 12 cm, change to 1 strand light ice blue Paris + 1 strand Bomull-Lin and knit garter st. When the piece measures 30 cm, change to 1 strand white Paris + 1 strand Bomull-Lin and knit rib - see instructions above - keeping 1 st at each edge in garter st. When the piece measures 40 cm bind off all sts. 2nd side: Knit the same as the 1st side. Crocheted square: 1 square measures approx. 15 x 15 cm. Ch 6 with light blue Paris and join together into a ring with sl st. Round 1: Light blue Paris: ch 3, 2 dc in ring, ch 3, * 3 dc, ch 3 *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times. Finish with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at start of row. Cut yarn and turn the work. Round 2: Beige Paris: ch 3, 2 dc in the bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, * ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times. Finish with ch 1 and then 1 sl st in ch 3 at start of row. Turn the work. Round 3: Continue with Beige Paris: ch 3, 2 dc in the bow, ch 1, * 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at start of row. Cut yarn and turn the work. Round 4: White Paris: ch 3, 2 dc in the bow, ch 1, * 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * a total of 3 times, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at start of row. Cut yarn and turn the work. Round 5: Natural Bomull-Lin: ch 3, 2 dc in the bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, * 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1. Finish with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at start of row. Round 6: Continue with natural Bomull-Lin: ch 3, 2 dc in the bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, * 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1 *, repeat from * - * 3 times, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 3, 3 dc in the same bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1, 3 dc in the next bow, ch 1. Finish with 1 sl st in the ch 3 at start of row, cut yarn. Assembly: Make 2 squares and sew 1 on each side of the purse, centered in the garter stitch section. Sew side seams on the purse using edge sts as seam allowance and weave the bottom together. Shoulder cord: Cut 18 strands each approx. 2 meters long as follows: 6 strands white Paris, 6 strands light ice blue Paris and 6 strands beige Paris. Using each color as 1 bunch, braid the 3 together loosely. Thread the cord in the transition between garter st and the top rib on the purse - start and end on the same side, then knot the 2 ends together. The purse closes by pulling the cord. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (15)
Nada Boeyink wrote:
Via de tekening, moet je na 2 NLD ijsblauw, 2 NLD wit breien, maat naar de foto kijkend, is dat stuk breder, lijkt ook 4 NLD.
08.04.2020 - 15:56DROPS Design answered:
Dag Nada,
Het lijkt inderdaad breder, maar het zijn wel 2(/4) naalden hoor.
13.04.2020 - 11:11Ingrid De Heij wrote:
Ik brei de trui maat L. Er staat dat ik bij het voorpand op 33 cm.hoogte moet beginnen met afkanten voor het mouwsgat. Maar op de tekeni g is dat anders aangegeven, namelijk op 54 cm. Is het misschien een fout in de beschrijving? Graag uw advies, vriendelijke groet Ingrid.
25.12.2018 - 23:24DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ingrid
54 cm is de totale lengte van de trui. Dit is het getal dat aan de buitenkant van de maatlijntjes staat. Het getal dat aan de binnenkant staat geeft de hoogte van het armsgat aan. Als je deze van elkaar af trekt kom je op 33 cm uit.
27.12.2018 - 10:39Yrsa Sommer wrote:
Der mangler stadig garn til opskriften, som i tidligere har fået oplyst! Det er bomuld-lin, natur meleret hvor jeg mangler 50gr. Jeg strikker str. M. Ærgerligt at det ikke er rettet i opskriften!? MVH Yrsa Sommer
15.06.2018 - 21:37DROPS Design answered:
Hej Yrsa, det skal vi se på så hurtigt som muligt. Tak for information!
18.06.2018 - 10:53Henkel wrote:
Bei dem Diagram zu diesem Modell sind das immer Hin und Rückseite gemeint oder nur Hinreihen eingezeichnet
18.08.2014 - 21:47DROPS Design answered:
Es sind alle R eingezeichnet, also Hin- und Rück-R.
19.08.2014 - 09:39Inger Rasmussen wrote:
Der er ikke nok garn, af drops bomull-lin. Mangler at strikke det øverste af forstykket, og det ene ærme, og jeg har enda strikket ærmet noget kortere, end det der står i opskriften. Vil råde jer til at skrive at man skal bruge 150 gr,. Jeg strikker den i str. L MVH Inger Rasmussen.
11.03.2012 - 08:34