Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Saules siulas website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Limestone |
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Men's knitted jumper with shawl collar, stripes and moss stitch in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 135-1 |
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DOUBLE MOSS ST: 1st round: * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*. 2nd round: K over K and P over P. 3rd round: * P 1, K 1 *, repeat from *-*. 4th round: P over P and K over K. Repeat rounds 1-4. STRIPES: Work medium grey and light grey alternately every 11-11-11½-12-12-12½ cm. NOTE: Measure first stripe from cast on edge. Work medium grey in the last stripe on the body and sleeve until finished measurements. INCREASE TIP: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes. PATTERN 1: Row 1 (= from RS): K all sts. Row 2 (= from WS): * K 1, P 1 *, repeat from *-*. Repeat 1st and 2nd row. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. -------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 213-234-255-288-318-351 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with light grey. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 53-58-63-72-78-87 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 160-176-192-216-240-264 sts. Then switch to circular needle size 4 mm and continue in the round with DOUBLE MOSS ST and STRIPES - See explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 15-15-16-16-17-17 cm, insert 2 markers in the piece; 1 at beg of round and 1 after 80-88-96-108-120-132 sts (marks the sides). On next round, inc 1 st on each side of every marker - Read INCREASE TIP above = 4 new sts on round. NOTE: Work the new sts in double moss st. Repeat inc one more time when piece measures 30-30-32-32-34-34 cm = 168-184-200-224-248-272 sts. When piece measures 47-48-49-50-51-52 cm, divide the piece at the markers and finish each part separately. BACK PIECE: = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts (1st row = RS). Continue with stripes and double moss st - while AT THE SAME TIME casting off for armholes in each side on every other row as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6-8 times and 1 st 1-2-3-4-5-6 times = 76-78-80-82-84-86 sts. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cast off the middle 24-26-28-30-32-34 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then dec 1 st on next row from neck (dec by working the outermost 2 sts towards the neck tog) = 25 sts remain on shoulder in all sizes. Loosely cast off all sts when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. FRONT PIECE: = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts. Continue with stripes and double moss st. Start cast offs for armholes as on back piece on 1st row (= RS) - AT THE SAME TIME slip the middle 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts on a stitch holder for neck at the front, now finish each part separately. Cast off for armholes in each side as on back piece. When all cast offs are done, 25 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue in double moss st and with stripes. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm, loosely cast off all sts. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 63-66-69-72-75-78 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with light grey. Work rib as follows: * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-*. When piece measures 4 cm, K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 15-16-17-18-19-20 sts evenly (dec by K tog approx. every 3rd and 4th st) = 48-50-52-54-56-58 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm and insert a marker at beg of round. Continue in the round with DOUBLE MOSS ST and STRIPES. When piece measures 8-8-7-7-7-6 cm, inc 1 st on each side of marker = 2 new sts. Repeat inc every 5-4½-3½-3-2½-2½ cm a total of 10-11-13-15-17-18 times = 68-72-78-84-90-94 sts. When piece measures 57-57-56-56-54-53 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and broader shoulder width) cast off 3 sts on each side of marker (= 6 sts mid under sleeve). Then work back and forth on circular needle. Continue to cast off for sleeve cap in each side on every other row as follows: Cast off 2 sts 2-2-3-3-5-5 times, and then 1 st 3-4-4-5-5-6 times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 64-65-65-66-66-67 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Loosely cast off all sts. Piece measures approx. 65-66-66-67-67-68 cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams tog. Sew in the sleeves. RIGHT COLLAR: Worked back and forth on circular needle size 4 mm with medium grey as follows: Knit up sts from stitch holder mid front (leave the stitch holder) = 26-28-30-32-34-36 sts, P 1 row from WS. Then work PATTERN 1 from RS - See explanation above. When collar measures 19-20-21-22-23-24 cm (last row = 2nd row in PATTERN 1 = WS), insert a marker at the end of row seen from RS. Continue in GARTER ST - See explanation above - until finished measurements - At the same time work short rows as follows: * Work 2 rows over all sts, work 2 rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 8-9-9-10-10-11 cm from marker (in the shorter side). Cast off. LEFT COLLAR: Knit up the sts from stitch holder from RS behind right collar = left collar is underneath right collar. Work the same way as on right collar but reversed (work short rows over the outermost 20 sts towards mid front). ASSEMBLY: Sew right collar to right front piece and left collar to left front piece in outermost sts. Sew collar tog mid back and sew the neck on back piece. STRAP: Make 1 strap as follows: Twine 2 threads of 40 cm medium grey and fold them double. Make another strap the same way. Fasten the straps approx. 4 and 11 cm up from bottom edge on right collar (approx. 1 cm from edge mid front). Pull the threads through the collar and fasten the ends on the back. Sew button on left collar approx. 2 and 4 cm in from seam for left front piece. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (112)
Nettie wrote:
Prachtig patroon. kraag prachtig. Ik had net genoeg lichtgrijze wol en ruim genoeg donkere grijs. Patroon valt heel goed en heerlijk warm als je al een stuk gebreid heb op je schoot.
29.01.2017 - 13:00Kerstin wrote:
Leider noch eine Frage.Bevor ich zum Rückenteil übergehe stricke ich in Runden bis zur Gesamthöhe von 48cm(für Gr.M).Bringe ich die letzte Runde für die Höhe 48cm zu Ende und stricke dann bis zur Markierung,um die Maschen der zweiten Hälfte(92M) auf einem Hilfsfaden stillzulegen?Oder stricke ich die Runde mit 48cm bis zur Markierung(nach 92M) und lege die restlichen 92M dann schon auf einem Faden still?
08.12.2016 - 15:39DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Kerstin, nach 48 cm stricken Sie jetzt jedes Teil separat, dann stricken Sie die 92 M für das Rückenteil (= die 92 für das Vorderteil auf einem Hilfsnadeln stilllegen) wie beschrieben. Wenn das Rücktenteil fertig wird, stricken Sie di 92 M von dem Vorderteil. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
08.12.2016 - 16:23Kerstin wrote:
Hallo, ich habe eine Frage zum Rückenteil: bedeutet "...auf beiden Seiten bei jeder 2.R. für das Armloch abk.", dass am Beginn jeder Seite(Vorder- u. Rückseite) abgekettet werden muss?Heißt dann abketten Beginn Vorderseite+abketten Beginn Rückseite= 1Mal?(siehe Kommentar Katey)
08.12.2016 - 15:18DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Kerstin, für das Armloch müssen Sie am Anfang jeder Reihe (= Hin- + Rückreihe) abketten, dh jede 2. Reihe beidseitig. Z.B. Bei der 1. Hinreihe, die ersten 3 Maschen abketten und Reihe fertig stricken. Bei der nächsten Reihe (= Rückreihe), die ersteen 3 Maschen abketten = 3 M werden beidseitig abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
08.12.2016 - 16:20Pat wrote:
Hallo! ich habe eine Frage zur Maschenprobe. Gelten die Angaben für die Maschenprobe nach dem waschen und spannen oder davor?
25.11.2016 - 19:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Pat, es wird immer empfohlen, die Maschenprobe zuerst stricken und waschen, bevor Sie beginnen, so können Sie die Nadelnummer anpassen wenn nötig ist, damit die Maßangaben im Diagram stimmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
28.11.2016 - 08:48Anita Van Der Draai wrote:
Het rechterdeel van de kraag. Hoe moet ik dat zien? Als je het werk voor je hebt liggen of als je de trui aan hebt?
09.11.2016 - 14:14DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Anita. Zoals je de trui aan hebt.
09.11.2016 - 14:19Katey wrote:
Hi, I just want to clear up something with the instructions: "BACK PIECE: = 84-92-100-112-124-136 sts (1st row = RS). Continue with stripes and double moss st - while AT THE SAME TIME casting off for armholes in each side on every other row as follows: Cast off 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 0-1-2-4-6-8 ..." does this mean you CO 3 sts WS, 3 sts RS and then knit two rows WITHOUT casting off before CO 2sts? Please clarify this instruction. Thanks!
19.10.2016 - 03:24DROPS Design answered:
Dear Katey, in 1st size, you will first cast off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows (= 3 sts at beg of row from RS, 3 sts at beg of next row from WS), then cast off 1 st at the beg of next 2 rows (= 1 st at beg of row from RS, 1 st at beg of row from WS) = you have cast off 4 sts on each side, ie a total of 8 sts, 76 sts remain. Happy knitting!
19.10.2016 - 09:45Sarah wrote:
Hoi! Even een vraagje over dit patroon. Ik ben niet bekend met de magic loop techniek voor het breien van de mouwen (en ook niet met breien met 4 naalden...) Ik ben bijna bij de mouwen aangekomen, en dan ga ik eens oefenen of de magic loop mij lukt. Mocht het mij niet (goed) lukken, kan je de mouwen ook op gewone rechte naalden breien? Of moet ik dan iets aanpassen? En moet er iets aangepast worden aan het patroon voor het breien met magic loop?
20.07.2016 - 13:44DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Sarah. Brei je in de rondte (ook magic loop) hoef je niets te doen met het patroon. Ga je de mouw heen en weer breien, dan moet je 1 kantst opzetten aan beide zijkanten en je meerdert en kant af aan beide zijkanten. Lees ook hier voor meer informatie
20.07.2016 - 15:08Emma Pigott wrote:
I'm a little confused about the collar. How do I leave the stitch holder so I can do the left collar? Thanks
22.03.2016 - 13:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Pigott, when you have done right collar, just bind off sts then for left collar pick up sts inside right one (towards inside - see video below - it shows how to pick up sts from time code 0:57) and work as for right collar but reversed. Happy knitting!
22.03.2016 - 14:05Maggie wrote:
Ik brei deze trui voor mijn vader. Ik zou graag in plaats van de sjaalkraag met knopen, een kraag met een rits voor hem maken (model schipperstrui). Heeft iemand tips hoe ik dat met dit model kan doen?
06.03.2016 - 15:11DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Maggie. Je kan kijken bij herenpatronen uit garencategorie B (Karisma/Merino) en met een rits. Bijvoorbeeld dit model? Als je het een geschikt patroon vindt, dan kan je het gedeelte met de rits/opening toepassen op dit patroon. Veel succes en plezier mee!
08.03.2016 - 12:26Szekeres B. wrote:
Sziasztok, a gallérnál akadtam el. Nem értem, hogy a szemtartőtűről hogy kössük le a szemeket és hagyjuk is ott a szemtartó tűt? A másik kérdésem pedig, hogy a rövidített soroknál, akkor 2 sort teljesen lekötünk ( 28 szem), majd 2 sor csak a szélső 20szem, majd megint mind a 28 szem? A választ előre is köszönöm!
28.02.2016 - 21:59DROPS Design answered:
Kedves Kérdező! Azért kell a szemtartót (esetleg egy szál fonalat) a kötésben hagyni, mert a gallér másik oldalán ugyanezekkel a szemekkel kezdjük a kötést. A rövidített sorokat jól értelmezi.
06.11.2016 - 15:49