The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts | |
= slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso | |
= K2 tog | |
= 1 YO, BODY PIECE: On next round P YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. SLEEVE: On next row K YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. | |
= slip1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso | |
= P2 tog |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Fleur du Népal |
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DROPS jacket knitted in a circle in ”Nepal” with leaf pattern. Size S to XXXL
DROPS 126-1 |
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PATTERN: See diagram M.1, M.2 and M.3 - diagrams show 1 pattern repeat from RS. GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round. INCREASING TIP (applies to after M.1 and M.2): Inc 1 st by each marker per inc (i.e. inc 10 sts per round) – inc alternately to the left and to the right of all markers by making 1 YO – on next round work YO into back of loop to avoid a hole. -------------------------------------------------------- BODY PIECE: Worked in the round as a circle from mid back. Cast on 10 sts with Nepal and distribute them on 4 double pointed needles size 5 mm. Insert a marker at beg of round = mid piece towards the neck. Continue as follows in the round: M.1, M.2, M.2, M.2 and M.1 (= a total of 5 repeats across the round). Change to circular needle as you inc sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When M.1/M.2 is complete piece measures approx 19 cm from the middle and there are 210 sts on needle. Now insert a marker in each of the 5 stocking sts in the middle of pattern repeat (the inc were made each side of this st), and a marker in st mid between the first 5 markers (= a total of 10 markers). READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! PATTERN: Continue in GARTER ST – see above – at the same time on first round after M.1/M.2 inc by all markers - SEE INCREASING TIP - and repeat the inc on every 4th round as you go along. ARMHOLE: At the same time after 2-6-10-14 rows garter st (= 220-230-240-250 sts on needle) work next round as follows (this is a round without inc): Work 25-27-29-31 sts, cast off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole), work 106-108-108-108 sts, cast off 32-34-37-40 sts (= armhole) and work 25-27-29-31 sts. On next round cast on 32-34-37-40 new sts over each armhole. Continue and inc as before until there is a total of 480-520-560-600 sts on needle – piece now measures approx 50-55-60-65 cm from the middle, finish after a P round and cast off LOOSELY with K sts. SLEEVE: Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 45-47-49-51 sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 5 mm with Nepal, K 6 rows (first row = WS). Continue as follows (first row = WS): 1 edge st, 19-20-21-22 sts in reverse stocking st , M.3, 19-20-21-22 sts in reverse stocking st and 1 edge st. Continue in pattern like this. After M.3 continue in reverse stocking st on all sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 20 cm inc 1 st each side, repeat the inc on every 4-3.5-3-2.5 cm a total of 8-9-11-13 times = 61-65-71-77 sts. When piece measures 52 cm for all sizes cast off for sleeve cap at beg at beg of every row each side: 4 sts 1 time, then 2 sts each side until piece measures approx 60 cm. Cast off remaining sts. ASSEMBLY: Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st. Set in sleeves placing the middle of sleeve cap where the distance between armholes is shortest (i.e. where the first st was cast off on the first armhole and the last st was cast off on the other sleeve) and with the sleeve seams where the distance between the armholes is longest (i.e. the opposite side). BUTTONS: Place the jacket as shown in chart with RS facing up. Measure approx 5 cm down from the bottom of armhole on the left side of piece and then 10 cm out in a 90 degree angle and sew 1 button on here from RS – see the marking. Sew on the other button on the other side in the same position, but sew it on from WS. BUTTONHOLE LOOPS: Crochet 1 buttonhole loop with crochet hook size 4 mm in cast off row each side to fit the buttons (see chart). 1 LOOP = 1 dc in cast off row on jacket, 5 ch, skip approx 1 cm and fasten with 1 dc in cast off row. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (217)
Maureen wrote:
Het spijt me maar ik heb problemen met M3 we starten met 5 steken, dan moet je er 2 samen av breien een lus een r nog een lus en dan opnieuw 2 av samen: dat blijft toch 5 steken? jullie hebben er dan plots 2 steken bij in de volgende rij... misschien moeten er nog lussen gezet worden na het samenbreien van de av steken? mvg maureen
28.10.2013 - 22:34DROPS Design answered:
Hoi Maureen. Ja, dat klopt, maar je breit maar meer steken mee in het patroon. Bijvoorbeeld (maat S/M) nld 3: 1 kant st, 18 st in averechte tricotst, M.3 (= 2 av, 3 r, 2 av), 18 st in averechte tricotst en 1 kant st. Ik hoop dat het zo duidelijk is.
29.10.2013 - 14:56Carol wrote:
I want to knit this pattern but have neve used a chart before, dose M1,M2,M3 mean the different sizes or different parts of the pattern? im alittle confused and any help would be great thanks x
19.10.2013 - 11:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Carol, M1, M2, M3 are the diagram for each pattern to be repeated as stated under written explanation, in diag, 1 square=1 st x 1 round. Start reading on the bottom right corner towards the left every round. Happy knitting!
21.10.2013 - 10:42Cornelia wrote:
Das runde Jackenteil samt Blätter ist schnell fertig geworden - aber - der Ärmel(52cm, dann 62cm lang) will nicht so recht gelingen! wie hoch und breit in cm sollte er nach 4M abn. sein damit er ins "Armloch" paßt? Danke für die Hilfe
23.06.2013 - 13:03DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Cornelia, die Masse des Ärmel können Sie anhand der Maschenprobe an jeder belieben Stelle ausrechnen – aber eigentlich ist das nicht nötig, denn wenn die Maschenprobe gestimmt hat, sollte er perfekt passen. Zur Höhe: sie beginnen nach 52 cm mit der Abn für die Armkugel, also mit den 1 x 4 M abn. Dann über 8 cm (also bis zu einer Höhe von 60 cm) an jedem R-Anfang 2 M abn.
24.06.2013 - 10:56Aurelie wrote:
Bonjour il est indiqué "AIGUILLES DROPS DROITES, DOUBLES POINTES et CIRCULAIRES (40 et 80 cm) n° 5 " : je ne comprends pas bien. Combien de jeux d'aiguilles faut-il exactement? les double-pointes sont n°5 et de 40 cm? je n'en trouve pas dans vre catalogue (il n'y a que 20 cm) ni en magasin en ligne drops... merci de m'éclairer... amicalement
27.05.2013 - 22:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Aurélie, pour réaliser ce modèle, il vous faut des aiguilles 5 (ou la taille adéquate pour obtenir l'échantillon) en version : aiguilles droites + aiguilles doubles pointes (= jeu d'aiguilles à chaussettes traditionnellement de 20 cm) + aiguilles circulaires : 1 de 40 cm et 1 autre de 80 cm. Bon tricot!
28.05.2013 - 09:18Lois wrote:
I am trying to knit this pattern but am stuck at the beginning. I get to row 3 and can't get the p yo into back of loop, what stitch is this to purl into as it doesn't work for the 2nd one in each pattern. Help please. I think this is gorgeous and have done a lot of knitting, and do not like to be defeated. Thanks.
03.03.2013 - 22:48DROPS Design answered:
Dear Lois, look at the links to the videos on the right side of the picture, you'll find one called :"Increase - with yo (yarn over)", this will show you how to work a yo into back of loop. Happy knitting!
04.03.2013 - 10:08SUSANA HERRERA wrote:
No entiendo el patrón para poder realizar esta chaqueta, no se si podríais echar una mano para entenderlo y poder realizar esta labor. Gracias de antemano por la colaboración prestada.
26.02.2013 - 14:06Mains Agiles wrote:
Je me la suis faite en gris , elle est magnifique! mise sur mon blog aujourd'hui ;-)
20.01.2013 - 15:11Rosie wrote:
I bought yarn to knit this pattern....before reading through the pattern! I hate charts!!!!! Is this written out instead of in charts somewhere?!
17.01.2013 - 20:54Marchellier wrote:
Je suis débutante en tricot et j'adore ce gilet! a la place des diagrammes ni a-t-il pas une explication ecrite?
24.09.2012 - 22:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Madame Marchellier, dans le diagramme, 1 case = 1 m x 1 tour(rang). Tricotez bien en suivant la légende et les explications. Pour toute aide personnalisée, je vous invite à prendre contact avec votre magasin DROPS ou sur le forum DROPS. Bon tricot !
25.09.2012 - 09:58Kim wrote:
Ich habe nun schon 5 Mal wieder neu angefangen, weil es einfach nicht hinkommt. Ich glaube, ich mache irgendwas falsch. Man muss doch 5 Mal die erste Reihe, dann 5 Mal die zweite Reihe, 5 Mal die dritte usw. stricken. Bei der 8. Reihe von unten kommt es mit den Umschlägen der Vorreihe nie hin ! Ich würde mich sehr freuen, wenn mir da jemand einen Tipp hätte.
13.05.2012 - 14:09DROPS Design answered:
Sie stricken nicht 5 x die erste Reihe, sondern pro Runde die Rapporte M1, M2, M2, M2 und M1. Dies ergibt 5 Blätter. Jede Kästchenreihe entspricht einer gestrickten Reihe.
14.05.2012 - 15:01