The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Winter Ballade |
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Knitted jumper for men with rib and high neck, in DROPS Karisma and DROPS Fabel, plus gloves in DROPS Karisma
DROPS 85-20 |
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Rib-1: *K 1, P 1*, repeat from *-*. Rib-2: *K 5, P 5*, repeat from *-*. Pattern: Row 1 (= right side): *K 1, P 1*, repeat from *-*. Row 2 (= wrong side): knit all sts. Repeat rows 1 and 2. Front: Cast on 69-75-81-87-93 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Fabel (= 2 strands). Knit Rib-1, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When the piece measures 4-6-6-6-6 cm change to larger needles and Pattern (see instructions above), keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st – see that the K ribs in Pattern are above the K ribs in the ribbing. When the piece measures 8-10-10-12-12 cm inc 1 st at each side every 7-9-9-9-9 cm a total of 4 times = 77-83-89-95-101 sts – knit the increased sts knit in the pattern as you go along. When the piece measures 37-45-46-47-48 cm cast off for armhole at each side every other row: 3 sts 1 time and 1 st 2-0-3-1-4 times = 67-77-77-87-87 sts. After last dec knit Rib-2 to finished measurements, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st, and begin rib with K 5. At the same time when the piece measures 50-59-61-63-65 cm cast off the center 15-17-17-19-19 sts for the neck. Then cast off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3 times = 21-25-25-29-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off in rib when the piece measures 56-66-68-70-72 cm. Back: Cast on and knit the same as the front but start Rib-1 and Pattern with P 1 at each side. Cast off for armhole as on front. When the piece measures 54-64-66-68-70 cm cast off the center 23-25-25-27-27 sts for the neck. On the next row dec 1 st at each neck edge = 21-25-25-29-29 sts remain on each shoulder. Cast off in rib when the piece measures 56-66-68-70-72 cm. Sleeve: Cast on 34-36-38-40-40 sts on smaller needles with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Fabel (= 2 strands). Knit Rib-1, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When the piece measures 10-12-12-12-12 cm change to larger needles and Pattern, keeping 1 edge st at each side in garter st. When the piece measures 15-16-17-16-18 cm inc 1 st at each side every 3.5-3.5-3-3-2.5 cm a total of 10-11-12-13-14 times = 54-58-62-66-68 sts. When sleeve measures 50-53-54-55-55 cm cast off for sleeve cap at each side every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 1-1-2-0-1 times and 1 st 1 time, then cast off 2 sts at each side until the piece measures 56-58-61-60-62 cm, then cast off 3 sts at each side 1 time. Cast off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 57-59-62-61-63 cm. The rib cuff is meant to be folded in half. Assembly: Sew shoulder seams. Collar: Pick up 70 or 80 sts (divisible by 10) around the neck on double-pointed needles with 1 strand Karisma Superwash + 1 strand Fabel. P 1 row and K 1 row, then knit Rib-2 – see that the rib follows the Body ribbing at center front. When the collar measures 14-16-16-16-16 cm inc all P 5 to P 6, knit 1 more row and then cast off in rib. Sew in sleeves inside of 1 edge sts. Sew sleeve and side seams using edge sts as a seam allowance. GLOVES: Sizes: (S/M) L/XL Materials: DROPS KARISMA SUPERWASH (100) 100 gr nr 63, brown/grey variegated DROPS 3 mm and 4 mm double-pointed needles, or sizes needed to obtain correct tension. Tension: 21 sts x 28 rows on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Rib: *K 2, P 2*, repeat from *-*. Glove: Cast on (52) 56 sts on smaller double-pointed needles; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib for 15 cm – decreasing (8) 6 sts evenly distributed on the last row = (44) 50 sts. Change to larger double?pointed needles and stockinette st – measure the work from here. When the piece measures 1 cm inc for thumb at each side of the 2nd st from marker every (4th) 3rd row (5) 6 times = (11) 13 thumb-sts. When thumb incs are complete put these (11) 13 sts on a st holder. Then cast on 1 new st behind st holder and join = (44) 50 sts. When the piece measures (10) 11 cm put the first and the last (18) 20 sts on row on a st holder, then knit little finger with the (8) 10 sts remaining. Little finger: Cast on 2 new sts toward sts on st holder = 10 (12) sts, divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx. (5) 6 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts. Put sts on st holder back on needles = (36) 40 sts; join and knit 3 rows stockinette st over all sts. Put (18) 20 sts for palm on 1 st holder and (18) 20 sts for upper hand on a 2nd st holder. Ring finger: Put (6) 7 sts from each st holder back on needles and cast on 1 new st toward middle finger = (13) 15 sts. Divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st until finger measures approx (6) 7 cm. K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts. Middle finger: Put (6) 7 sts from each st holder back on needles, pick up 1 st at ring finger and cast on 1 new st at index finger = (14) 16 sts. Divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit the same as the ring finger, measuring approx (7) 8 cm. Index finger: Put the remaining (12) 12 sts on needles, pick up (1) 2 sts at middle finger = (13) 14 sts. Divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit the same as ring finger. Thumb: Put the (11) 13 sts from st holder on needles. Pick up (3) 3 new sts behind these sts = (14) 16 sts. Divide sts on 3 double-pointed needles; join and knit stockinette st for approx (6) 6.5 cm. Then K 2 tog over all sts, cut yarn and pull through the remaining sts. Sew a small st between fingers where there are holes. Knit a second glove, reversing shaping. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (53)
Siv wrote:
Hei. Har begynt på erme. Skal det være tettsittende? Strikkefastheten stemmer men synes det ser så smalt ut.
15.10.2018 - 20:37DROPS Design answered:
Hej Siv, Nederste ribkant bliver ca 25 cm i omkreds i størrelse L. Synes du det bliver for småt, kan du følge en større størrelse, men da vil garnforbruget også blive lidt anderledes. God fornøjelse!
29.10.2018 - 15:52Holzberg wrote:
Hallo nochmal Meine vorherige Mail ist eine Frage!!! Vielen Dank für eine schnelle Beantwortung:) MfG A. Holzberg
26.02.2018 - 08:01Holzberg wrote:
Hallo!Wird der Pullover mit zwei Fäden gestrickt: \"Mit 1 Faden Karisma + 1 Faden Fabel auf Ndl. Nr 4,5, (69) 75-81-87-93 M. anschlagen \" Wieso benötigt man dann aber (500) 550-650-700-750 gr. Farbe 16, dunkelgrau mehr als die Hälfte als DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio 300-350-400-400-450 g Farbe 712 braun/blau? Über eine schnelle Info wäre ich dankbar. MfG Andrea Holzberg
26.02.2018 - 08:00DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Holzbert, Karisma ist etwa 100 m für 50 g und Fabel etwa 205 m für 50 g, deshalb braucht man eine verschiedene Menge in jeder Wolle. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
26.02.2018 - 10:09M. Dijkstra wrote:
Dit is een leuke site, maar het vinden van de wol is erg lastig. Hoe kom ik aan de wol die voor deze trui nodig is? Dat is een ware zoektocht. Jammer.
10.11.2017 - 14:25DROPS Design answered:
Hoi M. Dijkstra, In het patroon kun je vlak onder de foto en materiaalbeschrijving een lijst vinden met winkels die de wol verkopen en daarnaast een button om (online) te bestellen.
15.11.2017 - 10:28Michaela wrote:
Hallo, welcher Handumfang entspricht denn hier welcher Handschuhgröße?
29.09.2017 - 14:12DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Michaela, die kleinere Größe wird ca 21 cm und die größere ca 24cm sein. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
02.10.2017 - 09:11Manuela wrote:
I feel like I am getting something wrong with the bottom edge. The pattern indicates an odd number of stitches for casting on, and when I follow the row instructions for Rib 1, which I assume must be repeated at each row, leaving a garter stitch at the beginning and at the end of the row, I end up with seed stitch instead of rib. Should I be switching the purls and knits every other row? Thanks!
01.09.2017 - 02:17DROPS Design answered:
Dear Manuela, when working rib from WS just work K over K and P over P. Happy knitting!
01.09.2017 - 09:05Tina Ramthun wrote:
Hi, am I suppose to Dec 6 sts or Inc 6 sts after I knit the cuff? Thanks, Tina
18.09.2016 - 21:49DROPS Design answered:
Dear Tina, when working gloves, dec 6 sts evenly on last round rib, (44)50 sts remain. Happy knitting!
19.09.2016 - 09:59Anna wrote:
Hej, jeg kan se, at Fabel 712, som skal bruges til denne trøje, er desværre udgået. Kan I anbefale en god erstatning?
01.08.2016 - 13:44DROPS Design answered:
Hej Anna. Se her hvad vi ellers har i Fabel. Eller tag en snak med din garnforretning, saa hjaelper de dig videre med et godt alternativ.
02.08.2016 - 13:19Sandra Haas wrote:
Hallo:-) Ich möchte diesen Pullover gern nachstricken. Jedoch ist mir aufgefallen das in der anleitung die größe für 12/14 Jahre vorgegeben ist! Ich habe diesen Pullover in der Männer Katergorie gefunden. Nun meine Frage stimmen die größen für einen Mann - oder für einen Jugendlichen und wenn ja wie bekomme ich die Maschenanzahl, Abnahmen usw für die entsprechende Männergröße heraus? Lg Sandra ....eure Seite gefällt mir ansonsten sehr gut
04.03.2016 - 06:49DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Sandra, die Angaben nach der Klammer beziehen sich auf Männergrössen.
07.03.2016 - 09:45Jeanétte Zeybrandt wrote:
Ska beställa garn till denna tröja, men hittar inte fabels nr 05. Har det utgått eller?
13.01.2016 - 13:26DROPS Design answered:
Hej. Den färg i Fabel som använts här har dessvärre utgått, men du kan självklart använda en annan färg i DROPS Fabel istället. Lycka till!
13.01.2016 - 13:56