Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= P from RS, K from WS |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Richard |
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Knitted jacket for men, with raglan, high neck and zipper in DROPS Karisma and DROPS Alpaca
DROPS 85-13 |
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Gauge: 15 sts x 21 rows with 1 strand of each yarn on larger needles in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm. Rib: *K 1, P 1*, repeat from *-*. Pattern: The diagrams are showing all rows seen from the right side. Decreasing tips (for raglan): All decs are made on the right side. On front- and back piece dec before the 3 sts before/after the marker, and on the sleeves dec right beside the marker. Start 2 sts before the marker on the sleeves and 5 sts before the marker on front and back, and work as follows: K 2 tog, 1 st in seed st, K 1, 1 st in seed st, slip 1 st as if to knit, K 1, psso. ___________________________________________________________________ BODY The cardigan are worked back and fort on circular needle. Cast on 137-147-155-171-187 sts on smaller circular needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca. Knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges, and begin and end rib with K 1 (seen from the right side). When the piece measures 3-4-4-4-4 cm change to larger circular needles and Pattern 1, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side for front edges. See that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in ribbing. Place a marker in the 36-38-40-44-48th st in from each side (it will be a K 1), there are 65-71-75-83-91 sts between markers on back. When the piece measures 10-12-12-12-12 cm inc 1 st at each side of both sts with markers. Inc every 5-6-6-6-6 cm a total of 4 times = 153-163-171-187-203 sts – knit the increased sts into the pattern as you go along. When the piece measures 32-40-41-42-43 cm bind off 7 sts at each side for armholes (= bind off the st with the marker + 3 sts each side of that st) = 67-73-77-85-93 sts on back and 36-38-40-44-48 sts on each front. Lay piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVES Sleeves knitted in the round. Cast on 32-34-36-36-40 sts on smaller double-pointed needles with 1 strand Karisma + 1 strand Alpaca; join and place a marker at the join. Knit rib – start with K 1 at marker. When the piece measures 6-8-8-8-8 cm change to larger double-pointed needles and Pattern 1 – see that the K rib in the pattern is above the K rib in the ribbing. When the piece measures 10-14-10-14-10 cm inc 1 st each side of the K st at marker every 2.5-2-2.5-2-2.5 cm a total of 14-16-16-17-17 times = 60-66-68-70-74 sts – knit the increased sts in the pattern as you go along. When the piece measures 45-48-50-50-52 cm bind off 7 sts at marker (bind off the the K st at marker + 3 sts each side of it) = 53-59-61-63-67 sts. Lay piece aside and knit second sleeve. YOKE Put the sleeves in on the same circular needles as Body where you bound off for armholes = 245-267-279-299-323 sts Put a marker in each transition between Body and sleeves = 4 markers. Knit 3-1-1-1-0 rows before beginning shaping. Read entire section before knitting: Raglan shaping: Dec at each side of all markers (= 8 decs) – see Decreasing tips above – every other row 21-23-24-25-27 times. Neck: When the piece measures 49-57-59-60-62 cm put 3-4-5-6-6 sts at each center front edge on st holders for the neck. Then bind off at each neck edge every other row: 2 sts 2-0-0-2-4 times and 1 st 2-6-6-4-2 times. After all shaping is complete 59-63-65-71-75 sts remain. Neckband: Pick up and knit approx. 10-16 sts at each side of neck on fronts (including sts on st holders) with 1 strand of each yarn and put all sts on smaller circular needles. K 1 row from wrong side, then K 1 row from right side, adjusting (inc/dec) to 83-83-91-103-111 sts on 2nd row. Then knit rib, keeping 3 sts in garter st at each side and beginning rib with K 1 (as seen from the right side). When the collar measures 20-22-22-24-24 cm bind off all sts in rib. ASSEMBLY Sew opening under the sleeve. Sew in zipper – start at lower edge. Fold the collar in half to wrong side and stitch in place, covering end of zipper. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (144)
Ans wrote:
Kan ik de mouwen ook op een rondbreinaald breien ipv sokkenpennen
08.09.2021 - 19:52DROPS Design answered:
Dag Ans,
Jazeker, dat kan. Eventueel gebruik je de 'magic loop' techniek als je de rondbreinaald iets te lang is.
17.09.2021 - 11:01Alexandra wrote:
Hi I am at the neck where I have put 5 stitches at each centre front edge I just confused with where I go in the pattern So I have now 9 stitches on each front sides which includes the 3 rib stitches each side Do I leave these stitches and just work on rest of the stitches eg. the rest of the stitches on the front and back really not sure
11.07.2021 - 09:11DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alexandra, for the neck you slip the first 5 sts at the beg of next 2 row (= from RS and from WS) on a thread, then cast cast off at the begf of every row on each side 1 stitch 6 times (continue raglan as before). For neck edge, pick up the 5 sts from the thread, pick up 10-16 sts between these stitches and the next stitches on needle, knit all stitches on needle, pick up 10-16 sts before the 5 sts on a thread and knit the 5 sts on the thread, knit 1 row from WS adjusting the number of sts to91. Happy knitting!
12.07.2021 - 07:38Jooske wrote:
Ik begrijp het afkanten van de hals niet. Ik brei de middelste maat. Volgens mijn berekening (279-192 (8x24raglan)=87. 87-65=22. ) zou ik in totaal 11 steken, waarvan 5 op een hulpdraad, dus 6 moeten afkanten aan iedere kant? Ik begrijp dan de beschrijving niet. En hoe minder ik dan? Is het anders, hoe en hoeveel minder ik dan voor de hals? Graag uw hulp.
04.06.2021 - 01:24Jooske wrote:
Over de hals: ik begrijp het afkanten niet: (ik brei de middelste maat) 5 steken op een hulpdraad en dan?
04.06.2021 - 00:58Alexandra wrote:
Hi not sure I’m understanding the pattern symbols = K from RS, P from WS how do I. P WS symbols = P from RS, K from WS and P RS , K WS
26.05.2021 - 11:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alexandra, if your first row in M.1 is worked from RS you will work: (P1, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1) - and on the 2nd row = from WS, you will purl all stitches. When working in the round (sleeves) work round 1 as before and knit all sts on 2nd round. Happy knitting!
26.05.2021 - 13:53Alex wrote:
What do u mean at the start when it says use one strand of alpaca and one strand Karisma is it just using both wools
23.05.2021 - 09:29DROPS Design answered:
Dear Alex, yes, use the two different type of yarn held together. Happy Knitting!
23.05.2021 - 10:41Liliane Lemarquand wrote:
Bonsoir, je tricote le modèle Richard pour homme. Je suis à l'encolure. On me dit de mettre des mailles en attente de chaque côté et je ne comprends pas. Merci bcp
16.05.2021 - 21:26DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Lemarquand, tricotez les 3-4-5-6-6 premières m en début de rang sur l'endroit et mettez-les en attente sur un fil pour l'encolure (devant droit), terminez le rang, tournez, tricotez les 3-4-5-6-6 premières m du début du rang et mettez-les en attente sur un fil pour l'encolure (devant gauche), rabattez maintenant pour l'encolure de chaque côté tous les 2 rangs comme indiqué pour la taille. Pour le col, vous reprendrez les mailles en attente, relèverez les mailles dans celles rabattues pour le devant droit tricoterez les mailles sur l'aiguille, relèverez les mailles dans celles rabattues pour le devant gauche et reprendrez les mailles en attente. Bon tricot!
17.05.2021 - 09:42Graciela wrote:
No uso agujas circulares. Está disponible un patrón para dos agujas? Si asi fuera, les agradezco me indiquen cómo hacerlo. Gracias
09.05.2021 - 21:52DROPS Design answered:
Hola Gabriela, mira la leccion drops AQUI. Recuérda que cada uno de nuestros patrones tiene videos tutoriales específicos para ayudarte. Buen trabajo!
09.05.2021 - 21:56Wuschel wrote:
Wie kann ich bei dem Modell Richard die beiden Fäden Karisma und Alpaca durch einen Faden ersetzen? Welche Garngruppe ergibt sich dabei?
07.05.2021 - 07:09DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Wuschel, hier finden Sie alle unsere Modellen mit 15 Maschen; vielleicht können Sie mal mit Garngruppe C mal versuchen, ob Ihnen die Textur mit dieser Maschenprobe für dieses Modell gefällt. Hier lesen Sie mehr - gerne wird Ihnen auch Ihr DROPS Laden damit weiterhelfen - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
07.05.2021 - 07:47Mariette wrote:
Hallo. Ik ben aan de raglan toe maar begrijp de tips voor mindering raglan niet. Ik heb 4 merkdraden geplaatst. Na het voorpand en voor het begin van de mouw. Dan aan het eind van de mouw en het begin van het achterpand. Spiegelbeeld aan het eind vd nld. Is dit wel goed? In de tip wordt n.l. gesproken over merkdraden op de mouw en van de panden. Ik begrijp niet waar precies ik moet beginnen met de raglanmindering.
21.04.2021 - 23:36DROPS Design answered:
Dag Mariette,
De markeerdraden zitten in de overgangen tussen de mouwen en de panden en zitten tussen 2 steken in. Wanneer je mindert voor de raglan en je bent op dat moment op het pand aan het breien en breit dus richting een markeerdraad die de overgang tussen dat pand en de mouw aangeeft dan begin je de mindering 5 steken voor de markeerdraad. Wanneer je op een mouw aan het breien bent en je breit dus richting de markeerdraad die de overgang tussen de mouw en het pand aangeeft, start je de mindering 3 steken voor de markeerdraad. In de tip voor het minderen heb ik de omschrijving nog wat verbeterd.
29.04.2021 - 14:20