The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= knit 1 | |
= purl 1 |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Sjøbris |
|||||||
|
|
||||||
Knitted jumper with raglan and stripes in DROPS Sky. The piece is worked top down. Sizes S - XXXL.
DROPS 199-1 |
|||||||
------------------------------------------------------- EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN: ------------------------------------------------------- DECREASE/INCREASE TIP (evenly spaced): To work out how to decrease/increase evenly, count the total number of stitches to be decreased/increased over (e.g. 96 stitches), and divide by the number of decreases/increases to be made (e.g. 8) = 12. In this example, decrease by knitting each 11th and 12th stitch together. When increasing make 1 yarn over after each 12th stitch. On the next round, knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN: Increase 4 stitches in each transition between body and sleeves as follows: Work until there are 4 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over, work 6 stitches in pattern (the marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 1, 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs to leave holes. Then work the new stitches in stripes and pattern. INCREASE TIP (for sides of body): Work until there are 2 stitches left before the marker thread, 1 yarn over, knit 4 (marker thread sits in the middle of these 4 stitches), 1 yarn over. On the next round knit the yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stripes and pattern. DECREASE TIP (for sleeves): Decrease 1 stitch on each side of the marker thread as follows: Work until there are 3 stitches left before the marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch. STRIPES AND PATTERN: * Work 5 cm in white (including neck) and then 3 cm jeans blue * – repeat these stripes at the same time as the whole piece is worked in pattern – see diagram A.1; when increasing to raglan work the new stitches into the pattern as you go. ------------------------------------------------------- START THE PIECE HERE: ------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE: The piece is worked in the round with circular needle, top down. After the yoke the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked in the round with short circular needle/double pointed needles. NECK: Cast on 96-100-104-112-120-124 stitches with circular needle size 3.5 mm and white. Knit 1 round. Then work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 3 cm. Knit 1 round where you decrease 8-8-8-12-12-12 stitches evenly spaced – read DECREASE/INCREASE TIP = 88-92-96-100-108-112 stitches. Change to circular needle size 4.5 mm. Now continue with STRIPES AND PATTERN - see description above. YOKE: Insert 1 marker - THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! Insert 4 marker threads in the piece at the same time as you work stripes and pattern in the round as follows: Knit 3 stitches (= 3 stitches on back piece), insert 1 marker thread, work the next 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, work the next 32-34-34-36-38-40 stitches (= front piece), insert 1 marker thread, work 12-12-14-14-16-16 stitches (= sleeve), insert 1 marker thread, work the last 29-31-31-33-35-37 stitches (= back piece) after the last marker thread (there are 3 stitches left to the first marker thread). The next round is worked as follows: 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches in pattern (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 24-26-26-28-30-32 stitches in pattern (= front piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 4-4-6-6-8-8 stitches in pattern (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, 6 stitches pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over, work 24-26-26-28-30-32 stitches in pattern (= back piece), 1 yarn over, knit 1, make 1 yarn over. The first increase to RAGLAN – read description above, is now finished (= 16 stitches increased on the round). Continue to increase to raglan every 4th round a total of 11-13-14-16-17-19 times (including the first increase described above) = 264-300-320-356-380-416 stitches on needle Size XL and XXL: The increase for raglan is complete. Size S, M, L and XXXL: The next round is worked as follows: 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over, work pattern until 3 sts remain before the next marker thread (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, work pattern until 3 sts remain before the next marker thread (= front piece), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, work pattern until 3 sts remain before the next marker thread (= sleeve), 1 yarn over, 6 stitches in pattern (marker thread sits in the middle of these 6 stitches), 1 yarn over, work pattern until 3 sts remain before the next marker thread (= back piece), 1 yarn over = 8 stitches increased. All sizes: After the last increase to raglan there are 272-308-328-356-380-424 stitches on the needle. Continue with stripes and pattern without increasing until the piece measures 20-22-23-26-28-31 cm from the marker at the beginning of the yoke. The next round is worked as follows: Work 4-3-4-5-7-7 stitches (= on back piece), place the next 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve), work the next 80-88-94-104-114-126 stitches (= front piece), place the next 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches on 1 thread for sleeve, cast on 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches on needle (= in side under sleeve) and work the last 76-85-90-99-107-119 stitches (= back piece). Body and sleeves are finished separately. THE PIECE IS NOW MEASURED FROM HERE! BODY: = 176-192-208-228-252-276 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 new stitches cast on under each sleeve. Start the round by one of these marker threads and allow the marker threads to follow your work onwards; continue with stripes and pattern. When the piece measures 8 cm from the division, increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Repeat this increase when the piece measures 17 cm from the division = 184-200-216-236-260-284 stitches. When the piece measures 27-27-28-26-26-25 cm from the division (approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from shoulder) knit 1 round where you increase 36-40-44-48-52-56 stitches evenly spaced = 220-240-260-284-312-340 stitches. Change to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 4 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4.5 mm. The jumper measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm from the shoulder. SLEEVE: Place the 56-66-70-74-76-86 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 4.5.mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches cast on under the sleeve = 64-74-80-84-88-98 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 8-8-10-10-12-12 stitches. Work stripes and pattern in the round. When the piece measures 2 cm from the division decrease 2 stitches mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 7th-5th-4th-4th-3rd-3rd round a total of 13-17-19-20-21-25 times = 38-40-42-44-46-48 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 39-37-37-35-33-31 cm from the division (shorter measurements in larger sizes due to longer yoke). Knit 1 round where you increase 6-4-6-8-6-8 stitches evenly spaced = 44-44-48-52-52-56 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work rib (= knit 2 / purl 2) for 5 cm. The sleeve measures approx. 44-42-42-40-38-36 cm from the division. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl - to avoid the cast-off edge being tight you can cast off with needle size 4.5 mm. Work the other sleeve in the same way. |
|||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||
|
|||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (123)
Karlé wrote:
After the increases with YO at the markers, it says work the YO into the patten (knit or purl) but I sometimes end up with either two Knits or two Purls next to each other. Is that normal? Or should the whole pattern keep shifting all the time, meaning stitches that was previously worked Knit must now become Purl? Or was I suppose to follow the pattern in the very first increase round and not Knit each time (as pattern states) but Purl as well?
06.05.2024 - 10:58DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karlé, it might happen that there will be 2 stitches next to each other that should be worked the same way, most important is that the new stitches are worked into the pattern for sleeves/body to enlarge this pattern in width and keep the raglan sttiches worked as before (the 6 stitches worked in pattern should follow all the way). Happy knitting!
06.05.2024 - 13:40Ute Schmitt wrote:
Hallo liebes Drops-Team, diese Anleitung gab es auch mal als Jacke. Ich habe sie vor ca. 2 Jahren gestrickt und würde sie gerne mit einer anderen Farbe nochmals stricken. Damals war sie unter 199-1 zu finden. Darunter finde ich jetzt leider nur noch den Pullover. Gibt es die Anleitung für die Jacke noch? Liebe Grüße Ute
14.01.2024 - 16:44DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Schmitt, dieses Modell ist nur als Pullover - aber hier finden Sie eine ähnliche Jacke, vielleicht kann das Ihnen helfen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
15.01.2024 - 09:41Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Suite de mon message. Autrement dit, après les 6 m du raglan, il y aura (avec le nouveau jeté) forcément 2 mailles end ou 2 m envers qui se suivent Quand j'ai tricoté ma 14 ème aug, faut-il faire 3 autres rgs avant de commencer à augmenter les 8 mailles ? J'espère que vous comprenez mes explications pas forcément très claires ! Merci beaucoup de m'aider....
04.09.2023 - 14:16DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Francesconi, le point fantaisie du devant /du dos et des manches va s'élargir, autrement dit, tricotez les nouvelles mailles en point fantaisie en lisant le diagramme de gauche à droite au début du dos/devant/manches (= comme les mailles précédentes) et celles de la fin du devant/dos/manches comme les mailles suivantes - vous devez toujours avoir les 6 mailles (3 m avant + 3 m après le marqueur) tricotées telles quelles sans augmentations et les mailles du devant/du dos et des manches qui s'élargissent en incorporant les nouvelles mailles dans le point fantaisie. J'espère être claire car je ne vois pas la difficulté. Bon tricot!
04.09.2023 - 15:28Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Oui mais : La je viens de faire mon dernier rg d'aug. On est bien d'accord qu'il s'agit d'un rg en point fantaisie + aug. de 16 m. en tout sur ce dernier rang.A partir d'ici, il faudrait que je fasse un rang en point endroit comme indiqué sur A1.Or, il est indiqué de faire 8 aug. et faire ce rg avec des points fantaisie.il y a 2 rgs en point fantaisie qui se suivent et si je rajoute une augm (1 jeté) avant et après les 3 mailles de chaque marqueur, ca decale les points end. et env.
04.09.2023 - 11:00Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Bonjour, EMPIECEMENT : Taille M, donc j'ai réalisé les 14 augmentations raglan. Je termine donc sur le rang avec le point fantaisie. La suite me parait bizarre. on refait le point fantaisie et on augmente en tout 8 mailles. Mais cela décale le point fantaisie. (avec 16 mailles d'augmentations on retombe sur le point fantaisie d'une façon juste mais pas avec 8) Me comprenez-vous ? Comment faire ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Bonne journée...
03.09.2023 - 09:17DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Francesconi, le point fantaisie ne doit pas être décalé, les 6 mailles point fantaisie sont les mailles des raglans (vous augmentez de part et d'autre de ces 6 mailles) et elle doivent toujours être tricotées de la même façon, les mailles du devant, du dos et des manches augmentent au début et à la fin de chaque partie, et ces nouvelles mailles vont être progressivement intégrées dans le point fantaisie, mais vous devez toujours tricotez les mailles endroit à l'endroit (1ère m de A.1) et les mailles point mousse (2ème m de A.1) alternativement à l'endroit et à l'envers. Bon tricot!
04.09.2023 - 08:28Isabelle Francesconi wrote:
Pour faire le raglan, faut-il faire les 6 mailles (avec le marqueur au milieu) a l'endroit ou en point fantaisie ? Il y a contradictions avec les explications indiquées dans "RAGLAN" et "EMPIECEMENT" Merci d'avance pour votre réponse. Bien cordialement
29.08.2023 - 21:43DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Francesconi, effectivement, les 6 mailles du raglan doivent être tricotées en point fantaisie et non à l'endroit, ainsi vous augmenterez ainsi: 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté, 6 m point fantaisie (le fil marqueur est au milieu), 1 jeté, 1 m end, 1 jeté - répétez ces augmentations à chaque marqueur. La correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Bon tricot!
30.08.2023 - 08:37Jane wrote:
Hallo liebes Drops-Team! Ehe man am Rumpfteil das Bündchen strickt, nimmt man ja noch mal ordentlich Maschen zu. Passiert das, damit der Rand schön locker bleibt und sich nicht zusammenzieht? Kann es sein, dass der Pullover auf den Fotos mit einem völlig anderen Garn gestrickt ist? Ich stricke ihn mit Sky, aber er sieht komplett anders aus. Liebe Grüße, Jane
28.05.2023 - 11:15DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Jane, ja genauso wird man vor Bündchen am Rumpfteil zugenommen; der photographierte Pullover wurde mit Sky gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
30.05.2023 - 10:43Pontiggia Maria Raffaella wrote:
Buona sera. Non capisco la correzione. È per caso già stata inserita nel testo ?
10.03.2023 - 19:33DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Maria Raffaella, le correzioni vengono integrate direttamente nelle spiegazioni. La descrizione delle correzioni viene aggiunta per chi ha stampato il modello prima delle correzioni. Buon lavoro!
10.03.2023 - 21:47Virginia wrote:
Ho difficoltà nel capire come lavorare le maglie degli aumenti del raglan perché secondo le indicazioni andrebbero lavorate con le strisce motivo, ma così facendo si sfalsa la sequenza del motivo stesso e non si ha più l'incolonnamento delle maglie rovesce. Mi potreste gentilmente spiegare come fare. Grazie per l'aiuto
26.02.2023 - 23:38DROPS Design answered:
BuonaseraVirginia, deve mantenere la lavorazione del motivo in essere e aggiungere le maglie aumentate. Buon lavoro!
08.03.2023 - 17:09Giuliana wrote:
Buona sera! Vorrei confezionare questo modello con il filato Karisma, filato del gruppo B, ma lana. In genere mi affido alla taglia M, per la lana e la S per i capi in cotone. Mi potete consigliare gentilmente, quale taglia seguire, per avere una buona vestibilità, considerando anche il motivo. Grazie infinite per la risposta.
23.01.2023 - 15:28DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Giuliana, per trovare la taglia più adatta, in fondo alla pagina può trovare uno schema con le misure finali da confrontare con un capo simile in suo possesso. Buon lavoro!
23.01.2023 - 21:47