The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= Knit | |
= Purl |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Paulina |
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Knitted jumper with raglan, worked top down in DROPS Merino Extra Fine. Size children 3 to 12 years.
DROPS Children 23-7 |
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INCREASE TIP (applies to raglan): Work until 1 st remain before marker: Make 1 YO, K 2 sts (marker is in the middle of these sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes. Work the inc sts in the pattern. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1, A.2 and A.3. Diagrams show pattern from RS. DECREASE TIP (applies to body and sleeves): Work until 2 sts remain before marker, K 2 tog, marker, and K 2 twisted tog (i.e. work in back loop of st instead of front). -------------------------------------------------------- JUMPER: Worked in the round, top down. YOKE: Cast on 84-84-84-92-92 sts on a short circular needle size 3 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid back). K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm. Then work an elevation in back of neck as follows (continue in rib): Work 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten thread and work 16 sts back, turn, tighten thread and work 24 sts, turn, continue by working 8 sts more on every turn until a total of 64 sts have been worked, turn and work 1 round until marker mid back again. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st while at the same time inc 4 sts evenly = 88-88-88-96-96 sts. Now insert 4 new markers (for raglan) as follows: Work 15-15-15-17-17 sts from marker mid back, insert 1st marker here (at the same time remove marker mid back), work 14 sts more (= sleeve), insert 2nd marker, work 30-30-30-34-34 sts (= front piece) and insert 3rd marker, work 14 sts (= sleeve), insert 4th marker and work until 1st marker again (there are 30-30-30-34-34 sts between markers on back piece). Work A-1, AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, inc 1 st on each side of the 4 markers for raglan (= 8 inc) - SEE INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every round 7-7-9-10-11 more times and then every other round 11-13-13-14-15 times = 240-256-272-296-312 sts on needle. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-8-9-9 cm from mid front, work A.2 1 time vertically, then work A.1 again. After all inc, work next round as follows: Work until 1st marker. Slip the 52-56-60-64-68 sts between 1st and 2nd marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 3rd marker, slip the 52-56-60-64-68 sts between 3rd and 4th marker on a stitch holder, cast on 8 new sts over stitch holder, work until 1st marker again = 152-160-168-184-192 sts on needle. BODY: Continue in A.1 – AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in the middle of the 8 new sts in each side. When piece measures 3 cm from where sleeve sts were put on a stitch holder, work A-3 1 time vertically, then continue in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when 4 cm have been worked from where sleeve sts were slipped on a stitch holder, dec 1 st on each side of the markers in the sides – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 3-4-4-5-5 cm 4 more times = 132-140-148-164-172 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 38-41-44-48-52 cm from shoulder. Work 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME inc 4 sts evenly = 136-144-152-168-176 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 4 cm. LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Piece measures approx. 42-45-48-52-56 cm from shoulder. SLEEVE: Slip sts from one stitch holder on double pointed needles size 4 mm and in addition cast on 8 new sts under sleeve = 60-64-68-72-76 sts. Insert a marker mid under sleeve (i.e. in the middle of the 8 new sts). NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with A.1 until piece measures 3 cm from marker, now work A.3 1 time vertically, then work in stocking st. AT THE SAME TIME when 1 cm of A.3 has been worked, dec 1 st on each side of marker – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-3-4-4-3½ cm 5-7-7-7-9 more times = 48-48-52-56-56 sts. Continue to work until sleeve measures 25-29-33-36-40 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib = K 2/P 2 for 5 cm. Then LOOSELY cast off with K over K and P over P. Work the other sleeve the same way. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (66)
Ana Ramirez wrote:
Når jeg strikker A2 diagram, skal jeg fortsette med økningen? Har dere mønster på voksne størrelse?
04.01.2024 - 14:23DROPS Design answered:
Hej Ana, du fortsætter med økningen til raglan ifølge opskriften. Strikker du i DROPS Merino Extra Fine og har 21m x 28p på 10 cm, så vil målene stemmer med måleskitsen du finder nederst i opskriften :)
09.01.2024 - 15:18Bodil Liland wrote:
Det gjelder økning på bærestykket : kan det være riktig å øke til raglan på hver pinne (?) de første 7 gangene ?? jeg har strikket en omgang mellom hver øke-omgang for å integrere økningen, blir dette feil ? Ser at det deretter skal økes annenhver omgang, så vil høre før jeg rekker opp . . . Takk for raskt svar ! Mvh
08.12.2023 - 13:17DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bodil, ja du er nødt til at øke på hver omgang de 7 første gange, hvis du ikke gør det, rekker du ikke at få klar alle økninger i raglanen inden du når målet i opskriften :)
08.12.2023 - 14:00Brigitte Beier wrote:
Mich stört die unregellmässige Raglanzunahme - zuerst 7 x jede Reihe, dann jede 2. Reihe. Gibt einen unschönen Übergang. Was muss ich verändern, wenn ich gleich zu Anfang jede 2. Reihe zunehmen möchte ? Ergibt eine schönere Linie. Vielen Dank für Ihre Hilfe Brigitte Beier
09.03.2023 - 09:32DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Beier, bei diesem Modell muss man zuerst 8 Mal in jeder Runde dann 11 Mal in jeder 2. Runde zunehmen, wenn Sie immer in jeder 2. Runde zunehmen möchten dann sollen Sie die Anleitung in der Höhe sowie die Maschenanzahl passend umrechnen damit die Passe die richtige Höhe sowie die richtige Breite hat. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
09.03.2023 - 12:01Brigitte wrote:
Frage Raglanpasse - 2. Absatz...... Wenden und 1 Rd in Hin. und Rückr. stricken bis zur hinteren M.itte (Markierung) ......strickt man nur eine Hin- und Rückreihe in Bündchenmuster über die 64 Maschen oder über alles ? Gruß Brigitte
05.03.2023 - 19:24DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Brigitte, bei der 1. verkürzten Reihe stricken Sie 8 M ab der Hinteren Mitte, wenden und 16 M (Rückreihe) stricken, wenden, und 24 M stricken, wenden und 32 M stricken, wenden und 40 M stricken, wenden und 48 M stricken, wenden und 56 M stricken, wenden und 64 M stricken, wenden, bis zur hinteren Mitte stricken. Dann stricken Sie wieder alle Maschen in der Runde. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.03.2023 - 10:11Brigitte wrote:
Es heisst.....damit de Pullover im Nacken etwas höher wird (bedeutet das auch, damit der Pullover vorn etwas tiefer ausgeschnitten ist ?) Ich hätte es gern vorn etwas tiefer !! und wenn dem so ist, kann ich die verkürzten Reihen auch nach dem 2 re 2 li Bund beginnen ? denn es heisst in der Anleitung...... " im Rippenmuster. Das ist kompliziert.
05.03.2023 - 13:06DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Brigitte, also wenn man einen Pullover von oben nach unten strickt, wird den Hals entweder genauso vorne und hinten sein, oder wenn mann den Hals tiefer vorne wird, soll man verkürzten Reihen stricken, so ist der Rückenteil langer als der Vorderteil. Diese verkürzten Reihen sind hier im Rippenmuster gestrickt (bei den Rückreihen stricken Sie einfach die li M li und die re M re. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
06.03.2023 - 09:54Brigitte wrote:
Warum wird nicht vorn mit verkürzten Reihen gearbeitet, damit es vorn ca. 3 - 4 Reihen niedriger ist als hinten. Hinten 8 Reihen zu erhöhen, wird das nicht viel zu hoch am Hals ......8 Reihen ? Ich verstehe nicht, warum nicht vorn ein Mini Ausschnitt gemacht wird - wie gesagt 3 - 4 Reihen, hinten gar nichts machen. Warum sind es bei Ihren Anleitungenimmer 8 Reihen am hinteren Halsbund zur Erhöhung ? Das sieht doch nicht gut aus so hoch !!
25.02.2023 - 23:52DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Brigitte, es ist hier eine Designer-Wahl, hier wird man verkürzten Reihen stricken, damit der Halsausschnitt hinten etwas Höher als vorne wird; wenn Sie keinen Halsauschnitt möchten, können Sie einfach dieses Teil überspringen und direkt die Passe stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
27.02.2023 - 10:22Brigitte Beier wrote:
Da heisst es am Anfang.....damit der Pullover im Nacken höher wird ...... 8 M. nach der Markierung stricken, wenden, den Faden fest anziehen und 16 M. zurückstricken. Sind damit verkürzte Reihen gemeint ? Also den Faden VOR die Masche legen, es entsteht eine Doppelmasche ? Ich möchte es hinten gar nicht so hoch hab en, lieber vorn etwas tiefer als hinten. Ist das damit gemeint ? Vielen Dank.
23.02.2023 - 11:41DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Beier, ja genau, verkürzten Reihen werden hier gestrickt, dieses Video zeigt, wie solche verkürzten Reihen gestrickt werden - gerne können Sie auch mit dem sog. Doppemmasche stricken. Es sind insgesamt 8 verkürzten Reihen = ca 3 cm hoch. Veil Spaß beim stricken!
23.02.2023 - 14:36Hannelore wrote:
Vielen Dank für die schnelle Antwort. Ich war mir nur unsicher, weil in der Anleitung steht: in der nächsten Runde die Umschläge rechts verschränkt Stricken. VG
20.10.2022 - 14:32Hannelore wrote:
Die Zunahme habe ich verstanden, aber wie werden die Maschen in das Perlmuster integriert? Wie stricke ich vor und nach der Markierung weiter? Das Muster ist dann nicht fortlaufend, oder habe ich einen Denkfehler?
20.10.2022 - 09:13DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Hannelore, das Muster soll sich in der Breite vergrössern, dh die Zunahme vor dem Perlmuster stricken Sie wie die vorrige Masche : wenn Sie 2 rechte Maschen am Anfang stricken sollen, wird die Zunahme davor links gestrickt, und die Zunahme vor den Raglanmaschen stricken Sie wie ein neues Muster: wenn Sie mit 2 rechte Maschen enden, wird die Zunahme links gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
20.10.2022 - 10:16Martine BERTRAND wrote:
Bonjour, sur le modèle Paulina, je n'arrive pas a faire ma ré-hausse pour l'encolure dos. Y a t il une technique spéciale , car ce n'est pas beau ça me fait un trou! faut il tricoter ou non la 1ere maille au rang retour? Merci pour votre réponse, votre aide nous est toujours très précieuse. MB
15.08.2022 - 16:05DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Mme Bertrand, vous pouvez serrer la 1ère maille au début du rang, comme dans la technique de base des rangs raccourcis ou bien utiliser la technique des mailles enveloppées: sur l'endroit et sur l'envers. Bon tricot!
16.08.2022 - 08:14