Bulgaria

DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 4.00 BGN /50g

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Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 64.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Fisher’s Moon

Knitted jumper for men with cables in DROPS Alaska. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 219-9

#fishersmoonsweater

DROPS design: Pattern x-447
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
800-850-950-1050-1150-1250 g colour 02, off white

KNITTING TENSION:
16 stitches in width and 20 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5.5 mm : Length 40 and 60 or 80 cm for stocking stitch.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm : Length 80 cm for rib.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cables.
Needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to a larger needle size. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Men Men's Jumpers Aran Knitting bottom up cable double neck round neck sewn in sleeves

DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 4.00 BGN /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 64.00BGN.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.8.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Make 1 yarn over in each side inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On next row work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.
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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE GARMENT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in parts and sewn together when finished. Work back piece in stocking stitch and front piece with cables and stocking stitch. Work sleeves back and forth on needle. Work neck edge in the round.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 84-88-96-104-112-124 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska.
Work back and forth as follows – first row is from right side: 1 edge stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, * purl 2 and knit 2 *, work from *-* until 3 stitches remain, purl 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work rib like this until piece measures 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Work in stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch in each side. On first row adjust number of stitches to 82-88-94-102-110-122. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm, cast off for armholes in each side. Cast off stitches at beginning of every row in each side: Cast off 4 stitches 0-1-1-1-1-1 time, 3 stitches 1-0-0-0-0-0 times, 2 stitches 0-0-0-1-2-3 times and 1 stitch 0-1-2-3-3-5 times = 76-78-82-84-88-92 stitches.

Continue in stocking stitch. When piece measures 64-66-68-70-72-74 cm, cast off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 stitches for neck. Then cast off 1 stitch on next row from neck = 22-23-24-25-26-28 stitches for shoulder. Continue until piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm and cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 82-90-98-106-114-122 stitches on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Work back and forth as follows – first row is from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches, knit 2, A.1 (= 6 stitches), A.2 (= 6 stitches), A.1, A.3 (= 8 stitches), A.4 (= 6 stitches), A.5 (= 6 stitches), A.4, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this (repeat the first 4 rows in A.1 to A.5) until piece measures 5 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Then work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, stocking stitch over the first 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 0-1-2-2-2-0 stitches evenly, purl 2, A.1x, A.2x. A.1x, A.3x, A.4x, A.5x, A.4x, purl 2, stocking stitch over the next 16-20-24-28-32-36 stitches, AT THE SAME TIME decrease 0-1-2-2-2-0 stitches evenly, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. There are now 96-102-108-116-124-136 stitches on needle. When A.1x to A.5x have been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 16-19-22-26-30-36 stitches in stocking stitch, purl 2, A.6, A.6, A.6, A.7, A.8, A.8, A.8, purl 2, 16-19-22-26-30-36 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Continue this pattern. When piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm, cast off for armhole in each side as on back piece = 90-92-96-98-102-106 stitches.

When piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm, work next row as follows: Work the first 30-31-33-34-36-38 stitches as before, work the next 30 stitches - at the same time decrease 2 stitch evenly over each cable (= decrease 2 stitches over cable in A.6, 4 stitches over cables in A.7, and 2 stitches over cable in A.8, 8 stitches decreased in total), then slip these stitches on a stitch holder for neck (= 22 stitches on stitch holder), work the remaining 30-31-33-34-36-38 stitches as before. Now work each shoulder separately.
Continue to cast off for neck at beginning of every row from neck as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1-1-1-1-2-2 times and 1 stitch 2-2-3-3-2-2 times - NOTE: When working over cables in A.6/A.8, decrease at the same time 2 stitches over every cable = 24-25-26-27-28-30 stitches. Continue until piece measures 65-67-69-71-73-75 cm– decrease 2 stitches over cable in last repetition of A.6/A.8 = 22-23-24-25-26-28 stitches on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 66-68-70-72-74-76 cm. Work the other shoulder the same way.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 42-46-46-50-50-50 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska. Work back and forth as follows – first row is from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2 and purl 2 *, work from *-* until 1 stitch remains, work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. Work rib like this until piece measures 7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5.5 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side while decreasing 0-2-0-4-2-0 stitches evenly = 42-44-46-46-48-50 stitches. Then work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. When piece measures 8-8-8-8-8-10 cm, increase 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in each side - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 3½-3½-3-2½-2½-2 cm 12-12-13-15-15-16 times in total = 66-68-72-76-78-82 stitches. When piece measures 51-50-49-48-47-46 cm, cast off 4 stitches in each side. Cast off for sleeve cap at beginning of every row in each side as follows: 2 stitches 2-2-3-3-4-4 times, 1 stitch 0-1-0-1-0-1 time. Then cast off 2 stitches in each side until piece measures 56 cm in all sizes, cast off 3 stitches in each side, then cast off the remaining stitches. Sleeve measures 57 cm in all sizes. Work another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams with grafting/kitchener stitches inside cast-off edge. Sew in sleeve cap. Sew underarm and side seams in one inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

NECK EDGE:
Work neck edge in the round. Use circular needle size 5 mm and begin from right side at one shoulder seam. Pick up 72 to 84 stitches (including stitches on stitch holder at the front and divisible by 4). Purl 1 round and knit 1 round. Work rib with knit 2 and purl 2 for 9 cm. Cast off stitches with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Fold rib at the top of neck down on the inside of garment. Fasten rib to form a folding edge. To avoid a tight neck edge and avoiding the edge to tip outwards, it is important to make the seam elastic.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.

Updated online: 02.02.2021
Correction 1: Diagram A.6, A.7 and A.8 updated.

Correction 2:
SLEEVE:
Cast on 42-46-46-50-50-50 stitches (including 1 edge stitch in each side) on circular needle size 5 mm with Alaska.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2 stitches in next stitch, knit 2 stitches in stitch from cable needle = 4 stitches
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle behind piece, knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches in stitch from cable needle = 4 stitches
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 stitches in next stitch, work 2 stitches from cable needle = 4 stitches
	= slip 1 stitch on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2 stitches in next stitch, work 2 stitches in stitch from cable needle = 4 stitches
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle behind piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle
	= slip 2 stitches on cable needle in front of piece, knit 2, knit 2 from cable needle

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

Ames wrote:

Hello, I am confused about the cabling increases. After working A.1x etc once vertically, there are now more stitches than before due to the increases (working 2 stitches into 1, etc). Am I correct in then thinking that then starting on A.1 etc and only knitting 19 stitches (for size M) before starting the cabling, it will then be out of joint, as I've now increased the number of stitches in the cabling section? Sorry I'm not sure if this makes sense as a question but I'm really unsure.

24.11.2022 - 14:13

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ames, correct you will have 19 sts in stocking stitch on each side of piece inside the edge stitch - you decrease a total of 2 sts (1 in each section stocking stitch) and increase 2 sts in each diagram (14 increase in total) = 90-2+14=102 sts. Happy knitting!

24.11.2022 - 15:50

Michele Fabbri wrote:

Davanti: "Ora ci sono 96-102-108-116-124-136 maglie sul ferro." Come è possibile dato che dall'inizio è stato solo detto di fare diminuzioni e nessun aumento?

22.09.2022 - 12:38

Buonasera Michela, dopo aver cambiato la misura dei ferri circolari, si lavora sulle ultime righe dei diagrammi (indicate con X), in cui ci sono degli aumenti. Buon lavoro!

22.09.2022 - 16:25

Shanthi wrote:

Thank you for explaining so well. It looks so easy now. Happy summer.

26.07.2022 - 12:41

Hi. After casting on 82 stitches for the front piece, how many stitches will be there after working the first row ? If more than 82 kindly explain. I’m a beginner at knitting. I find it hard to understand your pattern instructions. Is it possible to give instructions for each row , specially when it comes to increasing and decreasing of stitches. Awaiting your reply. Thank you in advance and have a good day.

26.07.2022 - 11:30

Hi Shanthi, after working the first row you should have the same number on stitches i.e. 82 =1+16+2+6+6+6+8+6+6+6+16+2+1. If you have any questions, please not hesitate to contact us. Happy knitting!

26.07.2022 - 11:47

Hi. After casting on 82 stitches for the front piece, how many stitches will be there after working the first row ? If more than 82 kindly explain. I’m a beginner at knitting. I find it hard to understand your pattern instructions. Is it possible to give instructions for each row , specially when it comes to increasing and decreasing of stitches.\r\nAwaiting your reply. \r\nThank you in advance and have a good day.

22.07.2022 - 11:30

Michael Harish wrote:

Please ignore my comment from yesterday. I had a shower this morning and the water massaged my brain and I finally understood the pattern. :-) No, i dont knit in the shower lol

24.06.2022 - 09:12

Hi, I am having problems making sense of the pattern for the rib for the front. For xl 1 edge k2 p2 then over 28 stitches k2 a1, a2, a1, a3 (=28) k2 p2 then 28 again finishing withe k2 edge dies not add up to 106 stutches. Please explain, thank you

23.06.2022 - 18:17

Dear Mr Harish, work as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 28 stitches, knit 2, A.1 (= 6 stitches), A.2 (= 6 stitches). A.1, A.3 (= 8 stitches), A.4 (= 6 stitches), A.5 (= 6 stitches), A.4, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* over the next 28 stitches, finish with knit 2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch= 1+28+2+6+6+6+8+6+6+6+28+2+1 =106 stitches. Happy knitting!

24.06.2022 - 09:20

Fabienne Chaplais wrote:

Combien de pelotes faut il pour une taille M pour le Fisher s moin\r\nMerci

26.05.2022 - 21:49

Bonjour Mme Chaplais, vous trouverez les quantités requises pour chaque taille dans l'en-tête autrement dit, en taille M, il vous faudra ici 850 g DROPS Alaska/50 g la pelote = 17 pelotes; si vous souhaitez utiliser une alternative, pensez à utiliser notre convertisseur. Bon tricot!

27.05.2022 - 09:05

Joke Snip wrote:

Hallo, Ik ben het voorpand van 219-9 aan het breien. Ik heb 90 steken opgezet na het boord zijn het 88, na de eerste 4 naalden wordt er in het patroon over 102 steken gesproken. Ik begrijp dit niet. Hopelijk kunt u mij helpen Vriendelijk groet Joke

15.03.2022 - 17:32

Dag Joke,

Voor de boordsteek herhaal je alleen de eerste 4 naalden van A.1 tot A.5, dus er komen dan nog geen steken bij, dus het totaal aantal steken na de boord is 90. Daarna brij je het patroon zoals beschreven, waardoor er 14 steken bij komen en door het minderen weer 2 steken af gaan. Je komt dan op een totaal van 102 steken.

18.03.2022 - 08:42

CHATELAIN wrote:

Le point fantaisie est mal expliqué

12.03.2022 - 16:56

Bonjour Mme Chatelain, peut-on vous aider? Avec quelle partie des explications avez-vous du mal? Avez-vous lu cette leçon qui explique comment lire les diagrammes?

14.03.2022 - 14:18

Fisher’s Moon

Knitted jumper for men with cables in DROPS Alaska. Size: S - XXXL

You might also like...

Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to read a size chart

How to read knitting diagrams

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How to increase/decrease evenly!

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

How to cast off from the wrong side

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Fisher’s Moon

Knitted jumper for men with cables in DROPS Alaska. Size: S - XXXL

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	DROPS Alaska uni colour 100% Wool	4.00 BGN /50g	Order
	DROPS Alaska mix 100% Wool	4.00 BGN /50g	Order

	DROPS Alaska uni colour 100% Wool 4.00 BGN /50g Order
	DROPS Alaska mix 100% Wool 4.00 BGN /50g Order