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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.30 € /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Muskat uni colour 100% Cotton 2.30 € /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Igla i kukica website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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= K from RS, P from WS |
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= 1 YO between 2 sts |
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= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Love Is In The Air Cardigan |
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Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern in ”Muskat” or "Belle". Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS 160-2 |
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GARTER ST (worked in the round): * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds. GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. INCREASE TIP: Work until 1 st remains before marker, 1 YO, P 2 (marker is in the middle of these sts), 1 YO = 2 sts inc. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes. BUTTONHOLES: Dec for buttonholes on right band from RS. 1 buttonhole = K tog 3rd and 4th st from mid front, then make 1 YO. Dec for buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE S: 15, 23, 31, 39, 47 and 55 cm. SIZE M/L: 15, 23, 31, 39, 48 and 57 cm. SIZE XL: 16, 24, 32, 41, 50 and 59 cm. SIZE XXL: 16, 25, 34, 43, 52 and 61 cm. SIZE XXXL: 17, 27, 36, 45, 54 and 63 cm. ---------------------------------------------------------- BODY: Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 311-351-411-439-495 sts (incl 6 band sts in each side of piece) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Then work as follows from RS: 6 band sts in garter st, P 10-9-9-8-8, * A.1 (= 9 sts), P 7-6-6-5-5 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, insert 1 marker (= right front piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, insert 1 marker (= back piece), * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 10-9-9-8-8, 6 band sts in garter st. Work band sts in garter st until finished measurements. Work P sts K from WS and P from RS. Move the markers upwards when working. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 277-309-361-381-429 sts on needle. Then work A.2 (= 7 sts) over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm, dec as follows: Work 6 band sts in garter st, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, * A.2, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, marker, * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 2 tog, P 8-7-7-6-6, 6 band sts in garter st = 257-285-333-349-393 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Continue with P and pattern as before until piece measures 13-14-14-15-15 cm. Then dec as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, * A.2, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, marker, * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 7-6-6-5-5, P 2 tog, 6 band sts in garter st = 237-261-305-317-357 sts (20-24-28-32-36 sts dec). Dec for BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. Continue dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 3-4-4-5-5 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 157-189-221-253-285 sts. Work next row as follows: 6 band sts in garter st, P 4, * A.2, P 1 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 8-10-12-14-16 more times, P 1, marker, * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 3-4-5-6-7 more times, P 4, 6 band sts in garter st. When piece measures 30 cm, inc 1 st on each side of each marker (= 4 sts inc) - READ INCREASE TIP! Work inc sts P from RS and K from WS. Repeat inc every 1½-2-2½-3½-3½ cm 9-7-6-5-5 more times = 197-221-249-277-309 sts. When piece measures 48-49-50-51-52 cm, divide the piece as follows: Slip the first and last 52-58-65-72-80 sts on a stitch holder for front piece, cut the yarn, then work only over the middle 93-105-119-133-149 sts (= back piece). BACK PIECE: = 93-105-119-133-149 sts. Now cast off for armholes at beg of every row in each side of piece as follows: Cast off 4 sts 0-0-1-1-1 time, then 3 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-4-4-6-7 times and 1 st 1-3-5-8-9 times = 77-77-79-79-83 sts. When piece measures 65-67-69-71-73 cm, slip the middle 31-33-35-37-39 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately = 23-22-22-21-22 sts. On next row from neck, K the first 2 sts tog = 22-21-21-20-21 sts. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. Work the other shoulder the same way. RIGHT FRONT PIECE: = 52-58-65-72-80 sts. Now cast off for armhole at beg of every row from the side as on back piece = 44-44-45-45-47 sts. Continue to work in garter st, A.2 and P sts as before. When piece measures 57-59-61-63-65 cm, dec for neck as follows: On next row from RS slip the 14-15-16-17-18 sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck (work them first), then cast off on every row from neck: 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 2 times = 22-21-21-20-21 sts remain on shoulder. Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Continue to work A.2, P sts and in stocking st as before. When piece measures 66-68-70-72-74 cm, work 1 ridge in garter st over all sts, then cast off. LEFT FRONT PIECE: Work as right but reversed. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 96-105-105-112-112 sts on double pointed needles size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Switch to double pointed needles size 4 mm. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Then work as follows: * P 7-6-6-5-5, A.1 (= 9 sts) *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 84-91-91-96-96 sts on needle. Work A.2 over A.1 and P as before. When piece measures 3 cm, dec as follows: * P 2 tog, P 5-4-4-3-3, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 78-84-84-88-88 sts. When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7 cm, dec as follows: * P 4-3-3-2-2, P 2 tog, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 sts dec) = 72-77-77-80-80 sts. Repeat dec (i.e. dec alternately on each side of every P section) every 2½-3-3-4-4 cm 4-3-3-2-2 more times = 48-56-56-64-64 sts. Work next round as follows: * P 1, A.2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round (= 6-7-7-8-8 times in total). Piece now measures approx. 16 cm. When piece measures 18 cm, inc on each side of marker - READ INCREASE TIP - (= 2 sts inc), repeat inc every 2½-3-2-2-1½ cm 11-9-12-11-14 more times = 72-76-82-88-94 sts. P the inc sts. Work A.2 and P until piece measures 47-46-44-43-40 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), cast off 6 sts mid under sleeve (= 3 sts on each side of marker) and work sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Cast off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: Cast off 2 sts 4 times and 1 st 1-4-7-10-14 times, then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 54-55-55-56-56 cm, then cast off 3 sts 1 time in each side. NOTE: Work sts in the side that do not fit A.2 in stocking st. Cast off the remaining sts, piece measures approx. 55-56-56-57-57 cm. Knit another sleeve. ASSEMBLY: Sew the shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew the buttons on to left front piece. NECK EDGE: Pick up 100-120 sts (incl sts on stitch holder for neck) on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Muskat or Belle. Work 2 ridges. Cast off. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogues and 11422 patterns - 11422 of which are translated into English (UK/cm).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (91)
Hi! I was just wondering; why are there so many cast-on stitches? Is it possible to size down the pattern? Thanks!
26.02.2023 - 04:11DROPS Design answered:
Dear Emmy, you cast on extra stitches for the bottom edge for the wave-pattern. Later on, you will decrease stitches for the actual measurements. Happy knitting!
26.02.2023 - 23:52Die glatt links gestrickten Partien auf der Innenseite der Ärmel und auf den Seiten des Körperteils sehen besser aus, wenn die Zunahmen nicht, wie in der Anleitung angegeben, neben den mittig platzierten Markern gearbeitet werden, sondern am Rand, direkt vor und nach dem Mustersatz. Dann sieht man die Zunahmen gar nicht. Außerdem habe ich bis zum Armausschnitt die Vorderteile und das Rückenteil zusammen gestrickt, das spart die Seitennähte.
15.03.2022 - 17:38Jeg startede på jakken i 2017 og har bøvlet så meget med mønsteret, at jeg i arrigskab lagde det væk. Nu har jeg taget det frem igen da jeg mangler ærmerne - jeg skal slå 96 masker op - d.v.s. at mine arme kan være i ærmet ca. fire gange, det kan simpelthen ikke passe, så vide er de heller ikke på modellen, og selvom du vil sige, at der bli’r taget ind hen ad vejen, så er det stadig ikke godt nok. Du må kunne gi’ en bedre fidus? Det er trods alt et kæmpe arbejde.
12.01.2022 - 18:56DROPS Design answered:
Hej Connie, jo men de første 16 cm er som en flæsekant (næsten som et trompetærme), hvis du ikke vil have det, så kan du starte med maskeantallet efter de 16 cm :)
17.01.2022 - 14:20Für Gr. M/L ist eine Länge von 69cm angegeben und eine Weite für den unteren Abschluss von 140 (!) cm. Das ist doch viel länger als auf dem Foto und unglaublich weit?
29.12.2021 - 19:56DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Ina, die fertige Jacke wird ca 69 cm messen von der Anschlagskante bis zur Schulter - bei der Weite stimmt es auch, aber das Muster und die linken Maschen dazwischen werden die Arbeit etwas enger als diese 70 cm machen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
03.01.2022 - 09:57Hej, så dukkede der lige et spørgsmål op igen. Jeg har nu lukket af til ærmegab på rygstykket . Men jeg er i tvivl om hvordan jeg gør med de 2 resterende masker i hver ende som der er tilbage, de var jo oprindeligt en del af mønstret. Skal de strikkes i glatstrik (vrang på retside og ret på vrangside)? jeg kan jo ikke rigtigt følge mønstret når der kun er 2 masker.
23.06.2020 - 00:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Stine, ja de masker som ikke går op i mønsteret strikkes i glatstrik. God fornøjelse!
25.06.2020 - 09:35Hej, jeg er igang med denne cardigan, men har nu et problem. Jeg har lige opdelt arbejdet i ryg samt venstre og højre forstykke. Jeg skal så igang med at lukke af til ærmegab 14 masker i hver side, jeg strikker str m/l. Mit problem er at der jo kun er 9 masker i hver side og derfor vil jeg komme til at skulle lukke masker af som er en del af mønstret, kan det passe?
12.05.2020 - 13:58DROPS Design answered:
Hej stine, Ja det stemmer, du vil være nødt til at lukke en del af mønsteret af. God fornøjelse!
15.05.2020 - 08:58Buonasera il modello mi piace molto ma ho difficoltà con lo schema A2, ci sono 2 gettati di seguito nel primo ferro. Come si fanno?\r\nGrazie mille
02.03.2020 - 18:08DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Beatrice. Deve lavorare il diagramma A.2 sulle maglie su cui ha lavorato il diagramma A.1. Tra una ripetizione e l’altra di A.2 continua a lavorare le maglie a rovescio. Buon lavoro!
02.03.2020 - 18:26I made one amnd i am wearing it now. it's so beautiful. thank you for the pattern and explanation 😚👍👍👍
10.02.2019 - 18:47Hei, begynt å stikke denne. Men får ikke oppskriften til å stemme med bildet. På bildet ser det ut som det er glattstrikk, rettmasker mellom rapportene A1 og A2, mens i oppskriften står det vrang. Dette blir da ikke riktig?? Kan noen hjelpe raskt.
18.07.2018 - 11:53DROPS Design answered:
Hei Marita. Det stemmer at det er vrangmasker mellom A.1 og A.2 – det er det også på bildet, men det er litt vanskelig å se siden det er så lite. God fornøyelse.
25.07.2018 - 15:04Jag räknade inte med maskan som jag ska dra över. Ibland står det helt still. Haha! PS. Det måste va 3 varv räts i början annars börjar man sticka mönstret från avs.
11.03.2018 - 23:15