Miss Flora Cardigan |
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Knitted jacket with lace pattern, raglan and ¾ sleeves. Size: S - XXXL Piece is knitted in DROPS Flora.
DROPS 186-23 |
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INFORMATION FOR PATTERN: GARTER STITCH (back and forth): 1 ridge = knit 2 rows. GARTER STITCH (worked in the round): 1 ridge = 2 rounds. Knit 1 round and purl 1 round. BAND: Work right band as follows (i.e. the 8 first stitches on needle when working from right side): 2 stitches in garter stitch, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, purl 2. Work left band as follows (i.e. the 8 last stitches on needle when working from right side): Purl 2, knit 1, purl 2, knit 1, 2 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. Continue bands with garter stitch over garter stitch, knit over knit and purl over purl. PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 to A.4. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.1, A.2 and A.3). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side. KNITTING TIP: If you do not want lace pattern up along mid back, work in stockinette stitch over the 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches in A.2 mid back. DECREASE TIP-1 (applies to sides of body): All decreases are done from the right side. Begin 4 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 4 (marker thread is in the middle of these 4 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). DECREASE TIP-2 (evenly): To calculate how to decrease evenly on row count total number of stitches on needle (e.g. 146 stitches) and subtract number of stitches after decrease (e.g. 136 stitches) = 10 stitches decreased evenly. Then calculate total number of stitches on row (e.g. 146 stitches), minus bands (e.g. 16 stitches) and divide the remaining stitches by number of decreases to be done (= e.g. 10) = 13. I.e. in this example knit approx. every 12th and 13th stitch together when decreasing 10 stitches. INCREASE TIP (applies to sides on body and mid under sleeves): Begin 3 stitches before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, knit 6 (marker thread is in the middle of these 6 stitches), make 1 yarn over (= 2 stitches increased). On next row/round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. RAGLAN: Decrease for raglan on each side of the 4 marker threads in every transition between body and sleeves (= 8 stitches decreased on every decrease row). All decreases are done from the right side! Begin 3 stitches before marker and knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is in the middle of these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 2 stitches decreased). BUTTONHOLES: Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn): 1 buttonhole = purl fourth and fifth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row (wrong side) knit the yarn over to make a hole. Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures: S: 2, 9, 16, 22, 29, 36, 42 and 48 cm. M: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 50 cm. L: 2, 9, 16, 23, 30, 37, 44 and 52 cm. XL: 2, 9, 16, 24, 31, 38, 46 and 54 cm. XXL: 2, 10, 18, 25, 33, 41, 48 and 56 cm XXXL: 2, 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, 50 and 58 cm. NOTE! The last of these 8 buttonholes is decreased on first row from right side after picking up stitches for neck edge as explained in pattern. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET: Body is worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front, bottom up. Sleeves are worked in the round on double pointed needles/a short circular needle, bottom up. Then slip body and sleeves together and finish yoke back and forth on circular needle from mid front. BODY: Cast somewhat loosely on 292-292-292-384-384-384 stitches (including 8 band stitches in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Flora. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH - see explanation above. Knit 1 row from right side and purl 1 row from wrong side with 2 edge stitches in garter stitch in each side. Work next row as follows from right side: 8 stitches BAND - see explanation above, work A.1 until 8 stitches remain on row (= 12-12-12-16-16-16 repetitions of 23 stitches), and finish with 8 stitches BAND. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above. When A.1 has been worked, there are 208-220-244-272-288-320 stitches on needle. Insert 1 marker thread 56-59-65-72-76-84 stitches in from each side (= 96-102-114-128-136-152 stitches between marker threads on back piece). Work next row as follows from right side: Work 8 stitches band as before, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches), 48-51-57-80-85-95 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches mid back – read KNITTING TIP), 48-51-57-80-85-95 stitches in stockinette stitch, A.2 (= 32-34-38-32-34-38 stitches) and finish with 8 stitches band as before. Continue pattern like this. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12 cm / 4¾" on the shortest, decrease 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads - read DECREASE TIP-1 (= 4 stitches decreased). Decrease like this every 2-2-4-4-4-4 cm / ¾"-¾"-1 ½"-1 ½"-1 ½"-1 ½" a total of 3-3-2-2-2-2 times in each side = 196-208-236-264-280-312 stitches. When piece measures 22-20-20-22-20-20 cm / 8⅝"-7⅞"-7⅞"-8⅝"-7⅞"-7⅞", increase 1 stitch on each side of both marker threads – read INCREASE TIP (= 4 stitches increased). Increase like this every 2 cm / ¾" 5-6-6-5-6-6 times in total in each side = 216-232-260-284-304-336 stitches. Work until piece measures 32 cm on the shortest in all sizes. Work next row as follows from wrong side: Work 53-57-63-69-73-80 stitches as before (= front piece), bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches for armhole, work 90-98-110-122-130-144 stitches as before (= back piece), bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches for armhole and work the remaining 53-57-63-69-73-80 stitches as before (= front piece). Put piece aside and work the sleeves. SLEEVE: Cast on 87-87-87-95-95-95 stitches on double pointed needles or a short circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Flora. Work 2 ridges in GARTER STITCH in the round - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round (= mid under sleeve). Work next round as follows: * Knit 1, purl 3 *, work from *-* 8-8-8-9-9-9 times in total, work A.3 (= 23 stitches), * purl 3, knit 1 *, work from *-* 8-8-8-9-9-9 times in total. Continue with rib and pattern like this. When piece measures 2 cm / ¾" on the shortest, decrease all purl 3 (in the rib) to purl 2 by purling 2 together in every purl section = 71-71-71-77-77-77 stitches. When A.3 has been worked, there are 65-65-65-73-73-73 stitches on needle. Then work in stockinette stitch in the round, but continue A.4 over A.3 until finished measurements. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8 cm / 3⅛" on the shortest, increase 2 stitches mid under sleeve - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this 6-10-14-13-15-18 times in total in S: On every 18th round, in M: On every 9th round, in L and XL: On every 6th round, in XXL: On every 5th round, and in XXXL: On alternately every 3rd and every 4th round = 77-85-93-99-103-109 stitches. When sleeve measures 38-37-35-33-32-30 cm / 14⅞"-14 ½"-13 ¾"-13"-12 ½"-11 ¾" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke), bind off 10-10-12-12-14-16 stitches mid under sleeve (bind off 5-5-6-6-7-8 stitches on each side of marker thread) = 67-75-81-87-89-93 stitches remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve the same way. YOKE: Slip sleeves on to same needle as body where armholes were bound off (without working the stitches first) = 330-362-398-434-454-490 stitches on needle. Remove the marker threads in piece. Insert 1 marker thread in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 new marker threads). Begin from right side, continue back and forth in stockinette stitch and A.2 as before with 8 stitches band in each side as before. Continue in addition A.4 over the middle 3 stitches on each sleeve. When 2 rows have been worked back and forth over all stitches, begin decrease for RAGLAN on next row from the right side - see explanation above. Decrease for raglan every 4th row (i.e. every other row from right side) 6-5-4-4-6-7 times in total and then every other row (i.e. every row from right side) 17-22-27-30-30-31 times in total. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 48-50-52-54-56-58 cm / 19"-19¾"-20½"-21¼"-22"-22¾", slip the outermost 21-21-23-26-28-33 stitches in each side towards mid front on 1 stitch holder for neck, i.e. this is done at the beginning of the next 2 rows but work them before slipping them on stitch holder to avoid cutting the yarn. Continue back and forth as before and bind off for neck at the beginning of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 stitches 1 time and 2 stitches 1 time. Then bind off 1 stitch at the beginning of every row in each side until decreases for raglan are finished. After all decreases for raglan and bind offs for neck, approx. 92-92-92-98-98-108 stitches remain on needle. NECK EDGE: Pick up from right side approx. 146-146-150-162-166-186 stitches around the neck (including stitches on stitch holders at the front) on a circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. Knit 1 row from wrong side. Then 1 knit row from right side while decreasing evenly to 136-136-140-150-154-160 stitches – read DECREASE TIP-2 and remember to decrease for last buttonhole on this row. Knit 1 row from wrong side, knit 1 row from right side and knit 1 row from wrong side. Bind off knitting from right side. Jacket measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼"-22"-22¾"-23⅝"-24⅜"-25¼" from shoulder and down. ASSEMBLY: Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew the buttons on to the left band. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
Comments / Questions (33)
Dorthe Panum. wrote:
Jeg vil så gerne strikke denne fine bluse. Men jeg forstår ikke hvordan knuden skal strikkes. Jeg kan se den er blevet beskrevet på tysk i disse spørgsmål. Men er ikke god til at læse tysk. Kan i beskrive den på dansk, hvordan jeg skal Gøre? På forhånd tak. Venligst fra Dorthe.
04.01.2019 - 20:25DROPS Design answered:
hei Dorthe. Jeg kan forklare det til deg på norsk: knuten strikkes over 4 masker. Først strikker du de 4 maskene vrang sammen, men du slipper dem IKKE av venstre pinne. Så strikker du de samme 4 maskene rett sammen, igjen uten å slippe dem av venstre pinne. Så strikker du de samme 4 maskene en gang til vrang sammen, og en gang til rett sammen. Du har nå strikket de 4 maskene på venstre pinne sammen totalt 4 ganger (2 ganger vrang og 2 ganger rett), og du har nå 4 nye masker på høyre pinne. Slipp så de 4 maskene på venstre pinne av pinnen. Knuten er ferdig. God fornøyelse
08.01.2019 - 13:15Gunilla Fransson wrote:
Hej! Jag stickar modellen i strl small. Har kommit till avmaskning för hals. Hur kan det vara ca92 m kvar? Jag har 44m. När är raglanminskningarna klara?Med vänlig hälsning, Gunilla
03.12.2018 - 21:17DROPS Design answered:
Hei Gunnilla. Før du begynner å felle har du 330 m på pinnen. Du feller 8 m for hver raglanfelling på hver 4 pinne 6 ganger (=48 m felt) og hver 2 pinne 17 ganger (= 136 m felt). Dvs du feller totalt 184 m til raglan. Samtidig skal du sette av 21 m (42 m totalt) i hver side til hals, når arbeidet måler 48 cm. Videre feller du først 3 m og så 2 m i hver side (10 m totalt). 330 -184-42-10 = 94. Avhengig av målenøyaktighet og strikkefasthet kan det hende du har et par fellinger igjen av raglan når halsfellingen er ferdig, hvis så felles det videre 1 m i hver side mot hals til raglanen er ferdig. Du har derfor ca 92 m på pinnen når alle fellinger er ferdige. God fornøyelse
05.12.2018 - 11:57Trui wrote:
Hoe brei ik best de eerste steek van de voorbies, zodat ik een mooie afwerking heb van de zijkant?
03.09.2018 - 17:00DROPS Design answered:
Dag Trui, Deze kun je het beste in ribbelsteek breien.
06.09.2018 - 11:08Christine wrote:
Bonjour, à quoi correspond le schéma A4 ? Il est mentionné dans la marche à suivre pour les manches mais ne figure pas dans les explications. merci
30.08.2018 - 08:51DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Christine. Vous trouvez le diagramme A.4 à gauche du diagramme A.1 (tailles L + XXXL). Bon tricot !
30.08.2018 - 11:27Danielle Gosselin wrote:
Bonjour. Est-ce que les motifs du bas avant se poursuivent au bas arrière ? Y a-t-il un motif dans le milieu du dos ? Merci de me dire.
27.08.2018 - 12:50DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Danielle. Oui le motif du bas devant pursuit même sur le dos. Au milieu du dos, vous travaillez le diagramme A.2. Si vous ne désirez pas le motif sur le dos, vous pouvez travailler toutes les mailles du dos en jersey. Bon tricot!
27.08.2018 - 18:39Anna Karin Jern wrote:
Diagram A2-A4 sns inte längre.
26.07.2018 - 18:23DROPS Design answered:
Hei Anna. Vi har nå sjekket dette, og det er ikke noe feil med visningen av diagrammene, hverken på PC eller mobil. Gjelder dette uansett hvaslags enhet du bruker?
08.08.2018 - 14:48Anna Karin Jern wrote:
Diagram A2 - A4 syns inte längre.
22.07.2018 - 12:54Benedetta wrote:
Grazie!
04.05.2018 - 09:34Benedetta wrote:
Buonasera,non ho capito come lavorare il "nodo".non mi sembra molto chiara la spiegazione.Potete aiutarmi? Grazie x l'aiuto!
03.05.2018 - 21:49DROPS Design answered:
Buongiorno Benedetta. E' come se lavorasse una maglia sia nel filo davanti che quello dietro, senza farla cadere dal ferro. Deve però prendere 4 maglie e lavorarle (lasciandole sul ferro sinistro) nel filo davanti, in quello dietro, di nuovo nel filo davanti e in quello dietro e solo adesso farle cadere dal ferro. Buon lavoro!
04.05.2018 - 08:32Gerda Leber wrote:
Bedankt voor de snelle reactie. Ik ga het proberen ! Overigens: complimenten voor de website, ik heb al diverse patronen gebruikt. 💐
30.04.2018 - 15:37