DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 50% Wool, 50% Cotton |
6.20 CAD /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
-------------------------------------------------------
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
-------------------------------------------------------
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 50% Wool, 50% Cotton 6.20 CAD /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
= K | |
= P | |
= K 2 tog | |
= 1 YO between 2 sts |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Summer Dance |
|||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||
Knitted DROPS skirt with flounce in wave pattern in ”Cotton Merino”. Size S-XXXL.
DROPS 159-19 |
|||||||||||||
PATTERN: See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. KNITTING TIP: If there are too many sts on needle, work in the round on both circular needle to make room for all the sts. DECREASE TIP: Dec 1 st alternately on the right and left side of all markers. I.e 1st times dec on the right side of all markers and 2nd time dec on the left side of all markers, etc. Dec as follows 2 sts before marker: K 2 tog. Dec as follows after marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso. ---------------------------------------------------------- SKIRT: Worked in the round on circular needle. Bottom part of skirt consists of 4 layered flounces. FLOUNCE 1: Cast on 299-325-364-403-429-468 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Merino - READ KNITTING TIP. Now work pattern in the round as follows: A.1 (= 13 sts) 23-25-28-31-33-36 times in width = 253-275-308-341-363-396 sts. Continue with A.2 (= 11 sts). REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE When A.2 has been worked 6 times vertically, work the first 2 rounds in A.2 one more time. Now work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 51-51-57-64-58-64 sts evenly = 202-224-251-277-305-332 sts. When piece measures 14 cm / 5½'', put piece aside. FLOUNCE 2: Cast on 286-312-351-390-416-455 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Merino. Now work in the round as follows: A.1 (= 13 sts) 22-24-27-30-32-35 times in width = 242-264-297-330-352-385 sts. Continue with A.2 (= 11 sts). When A.2 has been worked 6 times vertically, work the first 2 rounds in A.2 one more time. Now work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 40-40-46-53-47-53 sts evenly = 202-224-251-277-305-332 sts. Place flounce 2 on top of flounce 1 and work them tog as follows: 1 st from first flounce is K tog with 1 st from second flounce, do this until all sts have been worked tog = 202-224-251-277-305-332 sts. Work 6 cm / 2 3/8'' in stockinette st over all sts. Put piece aside. FLOUNCE 3: Cast on 273-299-338-377-403-442 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Merino. Now work in the round as follows: A.1 (= 13 sts) 21-23-26-29-31-34 times in width = 231-253-286-319-341-374 sts. Continue with A.2 (= 11 sts). When A.2 has been worked 6 times vertically, work the first 2 rounds in A.2 one more time. Now work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 29-29-35-42-36-42 sts evenly = 202-224-251-277-305-332 sts. Work flounce 3 tog with flounce 2 the same way as flounce 1 and 2 were worked tog. Continue with 6 cm / 2 3/8'' in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on last round dec 10-14-17-19-17-20 sts evenly = 192-210-234-258-288-312 sts. FLOUNCE 4: Cast on 260-286-325-364-390-429 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Merino. Then work in the round as follows: A.1 (= 13 sts) 20-22-25-28-30-33 times in width = 220-242-275-308-330-363 sts. Continue with A.2 (= 11 sts). When A.2 has been worked 6 times vertically, work the first 2 rounds in A.2 one more time. Now work in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME on first round dec 28-32-41-50-42-51 sts evenly = 192-210-234-258-288-312 sts. Work flounce 4 tog with flounce 3 the same way as flounce 1 and 2 were worked tog = 192-210-234-258-288-312 sts. Piece measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4''. Then continue in stockinette st until finished measurements. On next round insert 6 markers in the piece as follows, beg mid back (= beg of round): Work 16-18-20-22-24-26 sts, insert a marker, then insert 5 markers 32-35-39-43-48-52 sts apart. 16-17-19-21-24-26 sts remain on round after last marker. On next round beg dec - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 2 cm / 3/4'' 3-4-5-6-7-8 more times and every cm / 3/8'' 4 times = 144-156-174-192-216-234 sts. When piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', P 1 round (= folding edge), then work in stockinette st for 2 cm / 3/4'' for hem before loosely binding off. ASSEMBLY: Fold the hem double towards the WS and fasten with neat stitches. Leave a little opening to thread the elastic through. |
|||||||||||||
Diagram explanations |
|||||||||||||
|
|||||||||||||
Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 304 catalogs and 11422 patterns - 11417 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (32)
Jessica wrote:
Yes, I know what stockinette is. No, the answer to whether I go straight into decreases after the flounces are created did not help. Summer Dance skirt
27.05.2024 - 01:42DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, after you put togetherthe flounces, in the second round, you start the decreases. Happy Knitting!
27.05.2024 - 03:51Jessica wrote:
After the flounces are made, it says to stockinette stitch to finished measurements, but doesn't say what that is. I am thinking it should be knit in stockinette the rest of the way and to jump right into the decreases on 159-19, Summer Dance skirt?
26.05.2024 - 12:16DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, stockinett is when you have knit stitches on teh RS and purl on the WS. If you knit stockinett back and forth, you knit on the RS rows and purl on the WS rows. If you knit stockinett on the round, you are knitting in every round. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!
26.05.2024 - 19:48Ranu wrote:
Ich versuche grade diese Maßskizze zu verstehen. Die obere Angabe kann sich ja nicht auf den Rockumfang beziehen, 34 cm Taillenumfang haben nur kleine Kinder. Ich habe normalerweise Größe S/M und möchte, dass der Rock mehr auf der Hüfte sitzt als in der Taille. Da habe ich einen Umfang von 90 cm. Selbst wenn auf der Maßskizze nicht der Umfang sondern nur die halbe Seite des Rockes gemessen wurde, würde ich dann hier XL stricken müssen. Stimmt das?
25.10.2022 - 15:05DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Ranu, in die 1. Größe werden die übrigen 144 Maschen ca 68 cm messen, so hat man die Maße von 34 cm - gerne können Sie je nach Wunsch und Maßen die Anleitung so anpassen damit der Rock Ihre Hüfte sowie Ihre Taille passt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!
25.10.2022 - 15:59Myra Jane Sloan wrote:
For some reason, I am having a hard time following this pattern. I basically would just like to get the basic flounce pattern as I would like to make a ruffle around a sleeve. How can I do just the basic pattern in simple terms and then I can repeat it as many times as I want around the sleeve cuff. Thank you so much for your time.
18.09.2020 - 04:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Sloan, you first work A.1 (= knit 1 round with decreases, purl 1 round), then repeat A.2 (= round 1 = K2 tog, K2 tog, (YO, K1)x3, YO, K2 tog, K2 tog - round 2+3: knit, round 4 = purl) - read more about diagrams here. Then work flounces together as shown in this video. Happy knitting!
18.09.2020 - 08:47Jessica wrote:
I see you have size listed as S-M-L-XL and such,but what does that correspond to? If I am an XL in US sizings, it is not the same as European sizes. Please help?
17.04.2017 - 03:15DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, the actual size of a garment depends on style and design. Please refer to the measurements on the drawig at the bottom of the pattern. Also of the knitting style and gauge also plays a big role- please always do a gauge swatch and check it, change needle size if necessary. I hope this helps. Happy Knitting!
17.04.2017 - 10:12Line Margrete Normann wrote:
Kære rette vedkommende Jeg er ikke sikker på om jeg forstår opskriften rigtigt? Betyder det at jeg skal strikke A1 først, men ikke hele omgangen? og så starte A2 efter 275 masker (str. m). Synes det lyder mærkeligt, at man ikke skal have det samme mønster omg ud, for derefter at starte A2. Håber I kan hjælpe mig til at blive lidt klogere. Tak :-)
22.10.2016 - 15:52DROPS Design answered:
Hej Line. Du har 325 m paa pinden og strikker först A.1 1 gang i höjden (gentages 25 gange paa omgangen). Naar A.1 er faerdig har du taget ind saa du har 275 m. Herefter strikker du A.2 over alle masker.
25.10.2016 - 12:51Jessica wrote:
Also wanted to know possible yardage ranges if I wanted to make the flounces in one color and the body of the skirt another?
19.02.2016 - 10:51DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, you are welcome to contact your DROPS store for any help adjusting the pattern/colours to your own wishes. Happy knitting!
19.02.2016 - 10:59Jessica wrote:
In reading through the pattern, I am stumped. At the beginning of the flounces I understand to work Chart A1 first then A2. But it doesn't specify how many times of each? Thanks Jessica
19.02.2016 - 10:04DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jessica, you work diagram A.1 1 time in height, then repeat A.2 6 times in height, then work the first 2 rounds in A.2 again. Happy knitting!
19.02.2016 - 10:58Marja Jokiniemi wrote:
Miten lasken kuinka monen silmukan välein teen kavennukset noissa röyhelöissä? Onko siihen joku laskukaava. Terveisin eräs joka AINA tuskailee näiden tasavälein kavennusten kanssa.
09.07.2015 - 11:30DROPS Design answered:
Hei! Voit laskea lisäysten s-välin seuraavasti: Laske kuinka monta silmukkaa kerroksella on (esim. 1. liehureunuksessa koossa S on 253 s). Jaa tämä luku lisäysten määrän kanssa (51 s) = n. 5. Eli kavennukset tehdään tässä esimerkissä aina kerran 5 silmukan kohdalla (voit neuloa esim. 3 s, 2 s yhteen, 3 s, 2 s yhteen jne.).
13.07.2015 - 14:00Sandrine wrote:
Attention si vous réaliser cette jupe en muskat prévoir 14 pelotes au lieu de 9 en taille M
11.05.2015 - 07:49DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Sandrine, pensez à bien vérifier votre tension et à la conserver tout au long de votre ouvrage, soit ici 21 m x 28 rangs en jersey = 10 x 10 cm et 1 motif de A.1 = environ 4.5 cm de large. Bon tricot!
11.05.2015 - 11:15