Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Mallia Kouvaria - pleko.gr. website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s.
= K from RS, P from WS | |
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K2, K2 from cable needle |
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn calculator?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
Cable Princess |
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Set of knitted jacket and bonnet with cables for baby and children in DROPS Merino Extra Fine
DROPS Baby 17-1 |
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PATTERN: See diagram M.1 – the diagram shows pattern from the RS. GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows. GARTER ST (in the round): K 1 round, P 1 round. BUTTONHOLES: Make buttonholes on right front band. 1 buttonhole = K tog 2nd and 3rd st from mid front and make 1 YO. Make buttonholes when piece measures: SIZE 1/3 months: 4, 8, 13, 17, 22 and 26 cm SIZE 6/9 months: 4, 9, 14, 19, 24 and 29 cm SIZE 12/18 months: 4, 10, 16, 22, 28 and 33 cm SIZE 2 years: 5, 11, 18, 24, 31 and 37 cm SIZE 3/4 years: 5, 12, 19, 26, 33 and 40 cm DECREASING TIP (applies to jacket): Make all dec from RS. Dec 1 st to the left and to the right alternately of all cables by P2 tog, i.e. the first dec is made to the left and the next dec is made to the right of all cables, etc. Decrease only on the inside of the outermost cable towards the band in each side. CROCHET PICOT BORDER: With crochet hook size 4 mm: 1 dc in first st, * 4 ch, 1 tr in the first of these ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 cm, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-*. ---------------------------------------------------------- JACKET BODY PIECE: Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 128-144-158 (170-186) sts (includes 5 front band sts each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rows garter st (first row = RS) – SEE ABOVE. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 front band sts in garter st, P1, K2 in each of the next 2 sts (i.e. 2 sts inc to 4), P across the row until 8 sts remain, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P1 and 5 front band sts in garter st = 132-148-162 (174-190) sts. Insert 1 marker 36-40-44 (47-51) sts in from each side (= 60-68-74 (80-88) sts between markers on back piece). Work next row as follows from WS: 5 garter sts, K1, M.1, K across the row until 10 sts remain, M.1, K1, 5 garter sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, P1, M.1, P across the row until 10 sts remain, M.1, P1, 5 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this (i.e. front band sts in garter st, 1 st in reverse stocking st inside front bands, 1 cable (= M.1) each side and remaining sts in reverse stocking st). REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4 cm dec 1 st on each side of both markers by P2 tog. Repeat the dec on every 4 cm a total of 4-4-4 (5-5) times = 116-132-146 (154-170) sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 4-4-4 (5-5) cm make buttonhole on right front band – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures approx 19-21-24 (27-30) cm – adjust so that next row is from WS – cast off 6 sts each side for armhole (= 3 sts on each side of both markers) = 104-120-134 (142-158) sts left on row. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves. SLEEVE: Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 28-30-32 (34-38) sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work 4 rounds garter st – SEE ABOVE. Continue in reverse stocking st, and insert a marker at beg of round = mid under arm. When piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st on each side of marker and repeat the inc on every 6-5-6 (6-8) round a total of 5-6-7 (8-8) times = 38-42-46 (50-54) sts. When piece measures 14-15-18 (22-26) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm = 32-36-40 (44-48) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other sleeve. YOKE: Slip sleeves on the same circular needle as body piece where cast off for armhole = 168-192-214 (230-254) sts. Work 1 row from RS with front bands and cables as before and remaining sts in reverse stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-4-6 (2-6) sts evenly (do not dec on front bands and cables) = 168-188-208 (228-248) sts. Work next row as follows from WS: 5 garter sts, K1, M.1, * K8, P2 in each of the next 2 sts (i.e. 2 sts inc to 4) *, repeat from *-* until 18 sts remain, K8, M.1, K1 and 5 garter sts = 196-220-244 (268-292) sts. Work next row as follows from RS: 5 garter sts, P1, M.1, * P8, M.1 *, repeat from *-* 15-17-19 (21-23) times, P1 and 5 garter sts. Continue in pattern like this, AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS start dec to shape the round yoke – SEE DECREASING TIP. Continue to dec on every 8th row: 0-0-1 (2-3) more times, on every 6th row: 1-2-2 (1-1) times in total and then on every 4th row: 4-3-2 (2-1) times in total (there are now 2 purled stitches between every cable). AT THE SAME TIME when yoke measures 8-9-10 (11-12) cm slip 8 sts each side towards mid front on stitch holders for neck. Cast off to shape the neckline each side at the beg of every row from mid front: 1 st 2 times. When yoke measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm dec all P2 between cables to P1 and K tog the 4 sts on each cable 2 by 2 = approx 43-49-55 (61-67) sts left on row. COLLAR: Pick up 10 sts on each side of neckline mid front (incl sts on stitch holders). K 1 row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts evenly to 50-54-58 (62-66). Work garter st back and forth on needle until collar measures 3-3-4 (4-5) cm. Now cast off 1 st each side a total of 4 times and then cast off remaining sts. Collar measures approx 5-5-6 (6-7) cm. ASSEMBLY: Sew openings under arms. Crochet a picot border – SEE ABOVE – round collar, round sleeve edges and along bottom edge of jacket. Sew on buttons. ---------------------------------------------------------- BONNET: Worked back and forth on circular needle. LOOSELY cast on 64-70-76 (82-88) sts on circular needle size 4 mm with Merino extra fine. Work 4 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * K2 in each of the next 2 sts, P4 *, repeat from *-* until 3 sts remain, K2 in each of the next 2 sts, 1 garter st = 86-94-102 (110-118) sts. Continue as follows from WS: 1 garter st, * M.1, K 4 *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain, M.1 (= 4 sts) and 1 garter st. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 garter st, * M.1, P 4 *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain, M.1 (= 4 sts), 1 garter st. Continue in pattern like this until piece measures approx 10-11-12 (13-14) cm – adjust so that next row is from RS – and now K tog the 4 sts on each cable 2 by 2 = 64-70-76 (82-88) sts. On next row from WS cast off the first 23-25-27 (29-31) sts, work remaining sts on row. On next row from RS cast off the first 23-25-27 (29-31) sts = 18-20-22 (24-26) sts left on row (= back piece). Work garter st back and forth on these sts for 11-12-13 (14-15) cm, cast off. ASSEMBLY: Sew the sides on the piece mid back to side pieces, sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Pick up approx 60 to 84 sts (divisible by 4) along bottom edge of bonnet on circular needle size 4 mm, K 1 row from WS and K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows from WS: K2, * P2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and K2 (= eyelet row). K 2 rows on all sts and cast off. Crochet a ch-string measuring approx 70 cm with crochet hook size 4 mm and thread string through eyelet row. Crochet a picot border – SEE ABOVE – round the front opening of bonnet. |
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Diagram explanations |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
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Comments / Questions (197)
Gabriele Simon wrote:
Liebes Strickteam, ihre Anleitung ist grds. sehr verständlich. Wie wird jedoch die Abnahme in der Passe gearbeitet? In JEDER? 8. R., 6. R., und 4.R abn. ? - die Passe besteht aus ca. 31 R und was bedeutet in diesem Zusammenhang '2, 3 Mal' (Gr. 62/68) Über eine Antwort würde ich mich sehr freuen. Vielen Dank für Ihre Bemühungen. Mit freundlichen Grüßen G. Simon
09.03.2024 - 20:52DROPS Design answered:
Liebe Frau Simon, nach der 1. Abnahmen wie beschrieben, nehmen Sie noch so ab: 2 Mal in jeder 6. Reihe dann -3 Mal in jeder 4. Reihe. Viel Spaß beim Stricken!
11.03.2024 - 08:17Miris wrote:
Bonjour, pour les diminutions de l'empiècement, il y a 8m env entre chaque torsade. Chaque diminution enlève 2m entre les torsades ? Donc 1fois ts les 6rgs, reste 6m/ 4fois ts les 4 rgs, reste 4m,2m,0m et ?? Il n'y a plus de m à la 4ème fois ? Merci
23.10.2023 - 20:15DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Miris, vous ne devez diminuer qu'une seule maille dans chacune de ces sections 8 mailles envers, autrement dit, la 1ère fois, vous diminuez à gauche de chaque torsade (= au début des sections 8 mailles envers), la fois suivante, vous diminuez à droite de chaque torsade (= à la fin des sections 7 mailles envers) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!
24.10.2023 - 09:20Miris wrote:
Merci pour cette super astuce !! Je vais essayer :)
23.10.2023 - 16:39Miris wrote:
En fait, c'est le jersey envers sur aiguilles double pointe qui me pose problème. En jersey endroit, c'est très régulier, je n'ai aucune démarcation. J'ai donc réalisé les manches en jersey endroit, cela fera une variante au modèle. Et je l'ai réalisé avec la technique du magic loop. De même avec cette technique, je n'arrive pas à un rendu régulier avec le jersey envers. Je suis intéressée par vos suggestions. Merci :)
22.10.2023 - 23:58DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Miris, c'est sûrement une question de tension différente du jersey envers, essayez la technique de la réponse précédente. Bon tricot!
23.10.2023 - 10:13Miris wrote:
Bonjour, au changement d'aiguilles double pointe, j'ai beau tirer le fil un peu plus, on voit la ligne de démarcation verticale du changement d'aiguilles. Les mailles n'ont pas la même tension, et cela fait plusieurs fois que je recommence sans succès ! La manche n'est pas régulière, on voit bien le changement d'aiguilles sur le pourtour. Et le 1er bébé de ma fille arrive dans 3 semaines !! Pouvez-vous m'aider ? Merci
21.10.2023 - 15:44DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Miris, vous pouvez peut-être essayer cette technique - votre magasin aura peut-être encore une autre astuce qu'ils partageront volontiers avec vous, même par mail ou téléphone. Bon tricot!
23.10.2023 - 09:44Jackie wrote:
Hi I knitted this cardigan for my granddaughter when she was 4. I have tried to work out how to knit it for a 6 year old. Any ideas
05.09.2023 - 21:24Anja wrote:
Das Muster ist wirklich schön, aber für meine Begriffe passen die Maschen anzahlen am Halsausschnitt nicht. Nach der Anleitung hätte ich viel zu viel Maschen übrig gehabt. Und schön wäre es, wenn sie etwas logischer aufegaut wäre. Mann muss zu oft hin und her springen (z. B. die Knopflöcher) Aber... Fertig sieht das Jäckchen traumhaft aus 😍
20.11.2022 - 21:24Yvonne wrote:
Can’t read any of the other posts. It would be nice if there was a translate button.
10.02.2022 - 15:28Carol Nuttall wrote:
Please post comment in english
02.01.2022 - 02:34Birgitta wrote:
Hur ökar man på ärmen när det är avigmaskor
29.12.2021 - 15:29DROPS Design answered:
Hej Bigitta. Du kan t.ex. göra ett omslag och sedan på nästa varv sticka omslaget vridet avigt. Mvh DROPS Design
03.01.2022 - 10:26