DROPS 62-19
CARDIGAN:

Sizes: S/M - M/L - XL
Finished measurements: 128-140-152 cm
[50-3/8" - 55-1/8" - 59-7/8"]

Materials: DROPS BIG BOUCLÉ,
60% wool, 40% acrylic, 50 g./50 m./54 yards
1000-1100-1200 g color no. 06, natural

Alternate yarns:
* DROPS PUDDEL, 64% mohair, 20% wool, 16% viscose, 50 g./50 m./54 yards

DROPS 6 mm [US 10] needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

9 DROPS Stein Optik Buttons (no. 201)

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CARDIGAN:

Gauge: 10 sts x 17 row in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Buttonholes: Bind off the 4th st on the right front for buttonholes and cast on 1 new st over the bound-off st on the next row when the work measures: 14-17-20 cm [5.5" - 6.75" - 7-7/8"]
25-28-32 cm [9-7/8" - 11" - 12-5/8"]
36-40-43 cm [14-1/8" - 15.75" - 16-7/8"]
47-51-55 cm [18.5" - 20" - 21-5/8"]
58-63-67 cm [22-7/8" - 24.75" - 26-3/8"]
69-74-78 cm [27-1/8" - 29-1/8" - 30.75"]
80-85-90 cm [31.5" - 33.5" - 35-3/8"]
91-96-101 cm [35-7/8" - 37.75" - 39.75"]
102-107-112 cm [40-1/8" - 42-1/8" - 44"] (the 2 last buttonholes will be on the collar).

Left Front: Cast on 37-40-43 sts, knit 4 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, but keep the 5 sts at the center front and 3 sts at the side in garter st. When the work measures 16-19-22 cm [6.25" - 7.5" - 8-5/8"] (the side split is finished here) knit stockinette st over the 3 sts at the side. When the work measures 56-60-65 cm [22" - 23-5/8" - 25-5/8"] bind off for armhole every other row: 3 sts 1-1-2 times, 2 sts 2-3-2 times, 1 st 3-3-4 times = 27-28-29 sts. When the work measures 70-75-80 cm [27-5/8" - 29.5" - 31.5"] inc 1 st inside the 5 edge sts for collar alternately every 3 cm [1.25"] and every 4 cm [1.5"] 3 times. When the work measures 80-85-90 cm [31.5" - 33.5" - 35-3/8"] bind off 12-12-12 sts at the side for the shoulder. Put the remaining 18-19-20 sts on a st holder for the collar.

Right Front: Cast on and knit like the left but reverse all shapings and make buttonholes (see instructions above).

Back: Cast on 64-70-76 sts, knit 4 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st, but keep the 3 sts at each side in garter st. When the work measures 16-19-22 cm [6.25" - 7.5" - 8-5/8"] (the side split is finished here) knit stockinette st over all sts. When the work measures 56-60-65 cm [22" - 23-5/8" - 25-5/8"] bind off for armhole on each side as on the front = 44-46-48 sts. When the work measures 80-85-90 cm [31.5" - 33.5" - 35-3/8"] bind off all sts. The center 20-22-24 sts = neck. Attach a marker at the center of the neck, after the 10th-11th-12th st.

Sleeve: Cast on 30-32-32 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st, change to stockinette st. When the work measures 4 cm [1.5"] dec 1 st on each side = 28-30-30 sts. Continue knitting until the work measures 13 cm [5-1/8"], attach a marker. Measure the work from here. When the work measures 9 cm [3.5"] inc 1 st on each side 10 times every 3 cm [1.25"] = 48-50-50 sts. When the work measures 43-41-39 cm [16-7/8" - 16-1/8" - 15.25»] bind off on each side for sleeve cap every other row: 3 sts 1-1-1 time, 2 sts 3-2-1 times, 1 st 3-6-10 times, then bind off 2 sts on each side until the work measures 55 cm [21-5/8"], bind off.

Pockets: Cast on 22 sts. Knit 4 rows garter st. Change to stockinette st but keep 2 sts at each side in garter st throughout. When the work measures 18 cm [7"] knit 4 rows garter st over all sts. Bind off.

Assembly: Sew the shoulder seams.

Collar: Pick up sts from the st holder on the right front, then 20-22-24 sts over the back, plus sts from the st holder on the left front = 56-60-64 sts. Continue with garter st over the outermost 5 edge sts and stockinette st over the remaining sts. Inc 1 st at each side inside the 5 edge sts 7 times alternately every 3 cm [1.25"] and every 4 cm [1.5"]. After 16 cm [6.25"] and 24 cm [9.5"], also inc 1 st on each side of the marker at the center back = 74-78-82 sts. Remember to make buttonholes in collar (see instructions above). When the collar measures 25 cm [9-7/8"] dec 2 sts inside the 5 edge sts on each side every other row 6 times, and with the last 2 decreases knit garter st over all sts. Bind off after the last row of garter st, the collar measures approx. 32 cm [12-5/8"]

Assembly: Sew in the sleeves. Sew sleeve- and side seams in one, start 16-19-22 cm [6.25" - 7.5" - 8-5/8"] from the bottom edge (side split). Sew on the pockets approx. 10-11-11 cm [4" - 4.25" - 4.25"] from the front edge and 14-17-20 cm [5.5" - 6.75" - 7-7/8"] from the bottom edge. Sew on the buttons. Approx. 13 cm [5-1/8"] have been allowed for a cuff.





HAT:

Sizes: S/M - M/L

Materials: Garnstudio BIG BOUCLÉ,
60% wool, 40% acrylic, 50 g./50 m./54 yards
150-150 g color no. 06, natural

DROPS 5 mm [US 8] double pointed needles, or size needed to obtain correct gauge.

Gauge: 11 sts x 27 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4" x 4"].

Garter Stitch, when knitting flat: Knit all sts, all rows.
Garter Stitch, when knitting in the round: *Rnd 1, knit. Rnd 2, purl *. Repeat from * - *.

Hat: Knit the peak first. Cast on 7-9 sts and knit garter st back and forth on the needles, increasing 1 st on each side every other row 8 times = 23-25 sts. The work measures approx. 6 cm [2-3/8"]. Continue on these sts with garter st until the work measures 15-17 cm [5-7/8" - 6.75"], then dec 1 st on each side every other row 8 times = 7-9 sts on the needles, bind off - the peak measures approx. 21-23 cm [8.25" - 9"]. Pick up 80-90 sts around the peak. Knit garter st. After 7-8 cm [2.75" - 3-1/8"] dec evenly distributed to 60-70 sts, continue in garter st, then bind off loosely when the piece measures 12-14 cm [4.75" - 5.5"]. Fold the edge over double against the right side.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 62-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Rita wrote:

Bei der Anleitung der Vorderteile wird beschrieben, dass ich zum oberen Ende hin innerhalb der 5 Maschen Krausrippe 3x je 1 Masche zunehmen soll das macht 8 Maschen Krausrippe. Beim Kragen ist dann wieder nur von 5 Maschen Krausrippe die Rede und das verstehe ich nicht so ganz.

25.05.2021 - 19:07

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, wenn Sie diese 3 Zunahmen krausrechts gestrickt haben, dann stircken Sie die 8 Maschen krausrechts beidseitig beim Kragen, damit das Krausrechts forsetzt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.05.2021 - 10:23

country flag Rita wrote:

Nach der Anleitung habe ich am Ende der Vorderteile 8 Maschen Krausrippe zu Mitte hin. Beim Kragen soll ich jedoch mit 5 Maschen Krausrippe beginnen. Ist das korrekt? Viele Grüße

24.05.2021 - 12:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, bei jedem Vorderteil stricken Sie 5 Maschen kraus rechts für die Blende, und 3 Maschen krausrechts auf die andere Seite (= Schlitz). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.05.2021 - 08:28

country flag Jo wrote:

Hi Can you please help me on this: Pick up 80-90 sts around the peak - where do 80-90 sts come from? when after dec the peak only has 7-9 sts on the needles.

11.11.2020 - 21:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jo, after you have worked the peak, you will pick up stitch whole around the edge of the peak: 1 st in each of the cast on stitches + 1 stitch along the side of peak (from cast on edge towards cast off edge, in the side of the piece = ca 21-23 cm); pick up then 1 st in each of the cast off stitch and pick up stitches along the other side of the peak (= along the approx. 21-23 cm) back to the cast on edge. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

12.11.2020 - 09:10

country flag Suk wrote:

Hi, I'm really sorry but I still don't understand how this work: what do you mean by: "you will pick up one stitch around the whole piece, ie in the 7-9 stitches cast on," - how do you pick up the stitch? from 7-9 stitches to become 80-90 stitches? Do you have any picture to help me understand? Thanks

11.11.2020 - 13:40

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sucks, along the cast-on /cast off edge, pick up stitches as shown in this video - along the sides (between cast-on and cast off edges and then along cast off and cast on edge) pick up stitches as shown in this video. Happy knitting!

11.11.2020 - 14:43

country flag Suk wrote:

Hi, I don't understand where are 'the 80-90 stitches around the whole bottom (peak)' come from since it was started with 7-9 sts increasing to 23-25 and then decreasing to 7-9 sts). Thanks

10.11.2020 - 16:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suk, after you have worked the whole bottom, you will pick up one stitch around the whole piece, ie in the 7-9 stitches cast on, in each of the end/beg of row to the 7-9 sts cast off, 1 st in each of the 7-9 sts cast off and then in each of the end/beg of row to the first stitch cast on, join and work now in the round. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

10.11.2020 - 16:59

country flag Suk wrote:

Hi, I'm not sure I understand how this pattern works. If I start to knit the peak first, how do I or where is 80-90sts come from as per the pattern: “Pick up 80-90 sts around the peak.” Please help me. Thanks.

09.11.2020 - 13:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Suk, you first work the bottom of hat - back and forth on needle (cast on 7-9 sts increasing to 23-25 and then decreasing to 7-9 sts). Then pick up 80-90 stitches around the whole bottom (peak) and work in the round, garter stitch. Hope this helps. Happy knitting!

09.11.2020 - 15:36

country flag Delpech wrote:

J,aimerais tricoter cette veste en grosse laine et taille 40 combien me faut il de pelotes merci pour votre réponse

25.07.2020 - 01:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Delpech, vous trouverez la quantité nécessaire pour chaque taille au tout début de la page, comme Big Bouclé n'est plus dans notre gamme, vous pouvez utiliser l'une des laines suggérées et utiliser le convertisseur pour calculer la quantité nécessaire. Vous trouverez ici plus d'infos sur les alternatives. Bon tricot!

29.07.2020 - 10:02