DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 161-35
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-289
Yarn group A
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Measurements: Width at the top: 140 cm / 55'' Length in the middle: 70 cm / 27½''
Materials:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g color no 340, blue lagoon
100 g color no 100, off white
100 g color no 914, shoreline

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 – or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 27.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

STRIPES:
Work pattern in garter st as follows:
2 ridges blue lagoon, * 7 ridges off white, 2 ridges blue lagoon *, repeat from *-* 1 more time. 6 ridges off white, 2 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges off white, 2 ridges blue lagoon, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges blue lagoon, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 8 ridges off white, 10 ridges shoreline, 3 ridges off white, 3 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges blue lagoon, 1 ridge shoreline, 2 ridges off white, 6 ridges shoreline, 2 ridges blue lagoon, 2 ridges off white, 4 ridges blue lagoon, 2 ridges shoreline, 2 ridges off white, 2 ridges shoreline, 6 ridges blue lagoon, 6 ridges shoreline.
Continue with blue lagoon until finished measurements.

TIP FOR CHANGING YARN:
When changing color with shoreline/blue lagoon and off white, cut the colored strand and fasten it in the section with the same color. This is done so that the colored strand is not visible in the sections with off white.
Off white is twisted with the other colored strand when the 2nd st before 3rd marker is worked (seen from RS). Repeat this twist of strands on every row from RS. Strand in off white will then follow upwards in piece to avoid cutting the strand every time you change to/from off white.

WAVE EDGE:
* K 1, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* and finish with K 1.
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SHAWL:
Worked top down in garter st, back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 9 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with off white. Work 3 sts in GARTER ST – see explanation above, K 2 in each of the next 3 sts, 3 sts in garter st = 12 sts. Work 3 sts in garter st, K 2 in next st, insert a marker between these 2 sts and 1 marker after last st, * K 1, insert a marker *, repeat from *-* 3 more times, K 1, 3 sts in garter st = 13 sts. There are now 6 markers in the piece. Continue in garter st back and forth over all sts, AT THE SAME TIME inc with 1 YO alternately before and after every marker on every other row from RS, i.e. on first inc, make 1 YO before markers, on second inc, make 1 YO after markers – on next row K YO to make a hole (= 6 sts inc every other row from RS). Continue inc until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When 7 ridges in off white have been worked, work next row until 2 sts remain before the 3rd marker while working STRIPES - see explanation above. NOTE: Change color in this st - read TIP FOR CHANGING YARN. When piece measures 69 cm/27" along the middle, work WAVE EDGE – see explanation above. Bind off sts and YOs with K.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Post a comment to pattern DROPS 161-35

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Comments / Questions (38)

country flag Inge wrote:

Volgens patroon 100g fabel ecru besteld en helaas tekort. Moet volgens het patroon in totaal nog 7 ribbels in ecru breien. Nog nooit eerder gehad met een patroon van drops design.

17.07.2023 - 16:45

country flag MO Diederiks wrote:

Comment op Uw antwoord. Dat klopt dus niet, want de eerste naald meerder je, de 2e, 3e en 4e naald niet, en de 5e naald meerder je weer,6e, 7e en 8ste niet, 9de naald weer wel. Dus niet om de naald. De totale lengte klopt niet als alle strepen hebt gebreid..

19.02.2023 - 22:25

country flag Mo Diederiks wrote:

Waar vind ik het antwoord op mijn vraag?

15.02.2023 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Mo,

Om eerlijk te zijn weet ik niet precies hoeveel steken je dan op de naald moet hebben. Er worden 6 steken gemeerderd om de naald, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet. Dus je zou het aantal steken uit kunnen rekenen op basis van het aantal naalden dat je breit.

19.02.2023 - 18:35

country flag MO Diederiks wrote:

Hoeveel steken moeten er zijn nadat alle strepen zijn gebreid?

15.02.2023 - 19:59

country flag MO Diederiks wrote:

Als ik volgens het schema van de kleuren brei en de 1e naald meerder, vervolgens de5e naald, 9e etc dan is de lengte van mijn sjaal 37 cm. als ik het hele schema heb gebreid. Dat lijkt me er weinig. Wat doe ik fout?

15.02.2023 - 19:34

country flag Ilse wrote:

Hej, Jag har tolkat bilden på sjalen som att när den färdig motsvarar en halvcirkel. Jag får det inte att stämma och undrar om ökningarna på varannat varv från rätsidan ska tolkas som vart femte varv, dvs. att man inte ökar på varje varv från rätsidan ( som jag tolkat som vartannat varv) utan att man ska sticka ett varv från avigsidan, ett varv från rätsidan, ett varv från avigsidan och sedan ökar man på nästa varv från rätsidan

16.07.2022 - 09:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ilse, du tager ud fra retsiden på hver 4.pind (= hver 2.pind fra retsiden). Første gang du tager ud, tager du ud før mærket (fra retsiden) strikker 3 pinde og tager ud efter mærket (fra retsiden) - God fornøjelse!

02.08.2022 - 14:56

country flag Martine wrote:

J'ai commencé le tricot en faisant 6 augmentations tous les 2 rangs. En comparant avec la photo, il me semble que ça fait des augmentations trop rapprochées et le tricot a une forme circulaire. Ne doit-on pas plutôt faire : rang avec 6 augmentations, rang normal, rang normal, rang normal et à nouveau rang avec 6 augmentations... Sur la photo, on voit une côte mousse entre 2 augmentations, ne faudrait-il pas plutôt faire 6 augmentations tous les 4 rangs ?

20.02.2021 - 19:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Martine, on va augmenter 6 mailles tous les 2 rangs sur l'endroit, autrement dit 6 mailles tous les 4 rangs. Bon tricot!

22.02.2021 - 08:26

country flag MJ Pepper wrote:

I am giving this pattern another try. It is obvious there are YARN OVERS in this pattern. I remember them from the first pattern I worked from. WHERE IS THE ORIGINAL PATTERN. This one IS NOT THE ONE I HAD BEFORE. PLEASE HELP. Thank you for your time and attention to my query.

17.01.2021 - 21:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pepper, this is the original pattern for Summer Tide Shawl - did you meant another pattern? You will find all our knitted shawls here. Happy knitting!

18.01.2021 - 11:18

country flag MJ Pepper wrote:

What I knit looks nothing like Reimy, Netherlands knit. See photo below, right to see what I mean. It is plainly obvious it is much longer than the photo below, left. I am asking Drops to write the whole pattern for the shawl Reimy, Netherlands knit. Thank you for your response. I look forward to news that the pattern will be updated per my description above.

22.04.2020 - 20:43

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pepper, what about showing your work to your store (even sending a picture for example) - or showing a picture of your work in our DROPS workshop where other DROPS Fans might help you. And you are welcome to ask your question about the pattern here, explaining where you are stuck, which row, which part you don't understand, etc... Happy knitting!

23.04.2020 - 10:10

country flag MJ Pepper wrote:

This beautiful shawl DESPERATELY NEEDS TO BE UPDATED. Please see that it is before I tear the rest of my hair out trying to figure out what I DID WRONG. Thank you for your time and attention to this matter.

21.04.2020 - 01:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Pepper, we are sorry to hear you have so many troubles to understand the pattern. Maybe you could tell us more? What don't you understand, which part of the pattern? Please feel free to ask your question here so that we can help you. And remember you can always ask your DROPS store - even per mail or telephone - for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

21.04.2020 - 09:51