DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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DROPS 156-5
DROPS design: Pattern no z-679
Yarn group A
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Measurements: approx. 66 cm / 26'' measured along mid sts, and 132 cm / 52'' along the edge at the top.
Materials:
DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
250 g color no 3770, dark pink

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 24.25$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.8. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS. Do not work YOs twisted, they should make holes.

WS ROW:
Work last row in A.2 as follows from WS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, P 1, 1 YO, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain, finish with P 1, 1 YO, P 1, 1 YO, 3 edge sts in garter st (do not work YOs twisted on next row, they should make holes). Inc 4 sts = 2 sts on each side of piece.

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SHAWL:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts. Cast on 7 sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with Alpaca. Insert 1 marker in the 4th st and move it upwards when working (= mid st). Then work pattern according to diagram A.1. On next row P YOs to make a holes = 9 sts. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 37 sts on needle. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Work edge sts in garter st the entire piece and work all sts not shown in diagram in stockinette st.

Then work as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K until 1 st remains before mid st, A.2 over the next 3 sts (mid st is st in the middle of these 3), K until 3 sts remain, 1 YO and 3 edge sts in garter st. Inc 4 sts in total per row from RS. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, there are 73 sts on needle.

Then repeat diagram A.2 and WS row the same way until A.2 has been worked a total of 10 times vertically = 397 sts. Piece measures approx. 55 cm/ 21½" measured along mid st.

On next row from RS work as follows: 3 sts in garter st, work A.3, repeat A.4 (= 5 sts) until 5 sts remain before mid st (= 37 times), A.5, 1 st in stockinette st (= mid st), A.6 (= 5 sts), repeat A.7 until 8 sts remain (= 37 times), A.8, finish with 3 sts in garter st. Continue working A.3-A.8 this way. NOTE: Diagrams do not fit vertically when repeated, but they are displaced 1 st on every row from RS. Work until piece measures approx. 63 cm / 24 3/4'' measured along mid st (finish with a row from RS).
Then work next row from WS as follows: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, P 1, 1 YO, * K 2 tog, 1 YO *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain, finish with P 1, 1 YO, P 1, 1 YO, 3 edge sts in garter st (do not work YOs twisted on next row, they should make holes) = 4 sts inc.
Work 2 ridges over all sts while AT THE SAME TIME on every row from RS inc 1 st inside 3 edge sts in garter st in each side of piece and on each side of mid st (= 4 sts inc on every row from RS). Loosely bind off with YOs as follows: * bind off 5 sts, 1 YO and bind off YO *, repeat from *-* until all sts have been bind off. Cut the yarn and fasten. Piece measures approx. 66 cm / 26''.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from WS
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = K 2 tog, 1 YO from WS
symbols = WS row - see explanation above
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (51)

country flag Ann-louise Samuelsson wrote:

Hej! Stickar A3-A8 nu. På tredje varvet då jag kommer till mitten och ska sticka A5 undrar jag vad ni menar. Det är 6 maskor på varv 3 i A5 men man ska börja med A5 5 makor innan mitten.? På varv 5 är det 7 makor. Ska man ändå börja med A5 5 maskor innan mitten?? Då förskjuts ju "mittmaskan" till vänster genom hela resten av arbetet.

10.03.2024 - 08:49

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-louise. Midtmasken skal ikke forskyves. Start med A.5 / A.6 når det er 5 masker før/etter midtmasken uansett hvilken rad du strikker. mvh DROPS Design

18.03.2024 - 10:43

country flag Ann-louise Samuelsson wrote:

Hej! Har nu stickat A2 10 gånger och mönstret ser ut som på sjalen på bilden. Uppfattat att jag stickat rätt men har enbart 361 maskor. Gått igenom vart det skulle ökas på varven o fattar inte vart jag missat i mönstret. Borde synas! Har ökat 4 m varje rätt varv o på avigvarv som blir hålmönster 4. Repa upp hela arbetet känns som då blir det ingen sjal för min del

04.02.2024 - 12:42

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ann-louise. Du starter med 37 masker og strikker A.2 totalt 10 ganger i høyden. Hver gang du har strikket A.1 1 gang i høyden øker du med 36 masker. Altså, du starter med 37 masker og etter at A.2 er strikket 1 gang i høyden skal du ha 37+36 = 73 masker, A.2 2 ganger i høyden = 73+36= 109, A.2 3 ganger i høyden = 109+36= 145 masker...... A.2 10 ganger i høyden = 37 + 360 (36x10) = 397 masker. mvh DROPS Design

12.02.2024 - 13:31

country flag Anne Lise Aakvik wrote:

Jeg strikker sjal i mønster 156-5, men for meg ser det helt feil ut. Der jeg starter, blir det den bredeste/øverste del av sjalet, for mønsteret ser ut som det blir opp ned for meg? Har lest gjennom oppskrift mange ganger, men greier ikke finne ut av det.

01.10.2023 - 11:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne Lise. Jo, du starter øverst, der det skal bli bredest. Når man ser på diagram A.1 vil man kanskje tro det blir feil, men følger man oppskriften slik den er beskrevet skal det bli riktig. mvh DROPS Design

09.10.2023 - 14:27

country flag Heleni Agrogianni wrote:

I am really confused you write :Then repeat diagram A.2 and WS row the same way until A.2 has been worked a total of 10 times vertically = 397 sts. Piece measures approx. 55 cm/ 21½" measured along mid st. what means that hot to repeat this one.if you could write with more details-informations after the first a2? what must do.how to ontinue.?????? thanks a lot i like that design but i can't understand the explications.please help

27.01.2023 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Heleni, after working A.2 once, in the last row work as indicated in WS row. Now, you need to repeat diagram A.2 9 more times; start working from the first row in A.2 and work the last row always as described in WS ROW, in the EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN. After having worked A.2 (and the WS row) 10 times in total in length, you should have 397 stitches. Happy knitting!

29.01.2023 - 21:03

country flag Heleni Agrogianni wrote:

Hi every one.i/m trying to knitting pink diamond Pattern no z-679,.i suppose it is knitting bottom to top?then you note Then work as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K until 1 st remains before mid st, A.2 over the next 3 .... repeat that 10 more time vertically.you means that i must find the mis of A22to repeat the second time and so on?i see the design is different from what i have?thanks for your reponse

27.01.2023 - 15:47

country flag Caroline wrote:

Hello I'm just starting A2, I've done the first row RS of the diagram, the instructions say 'Then work as follows from RS: 3 edge sts in garter st, 1 YO, K until 1 st remains before mid st, A.2 over the next 3 sts (mid st is st in the middle of these 3), K until 3 sts remain, 1 YO and 3 edge sts in garter st. Inc 4 sts in total per row from RS.' Does this mean I increase four stitches on every following even row of A2, starting at row 3 in A2? Thank you

02.09.2022 - 14:11

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Caroline, when working A.2 you will increase 4 rows on every other row = on every row from RS starting from row 1 (then 3, 5, 7 etc to the end of A.2); when you have worked the first row in A.2 you already have increased 2 sts + 1 stitch on each side of piece. Continue like this increasing on each side of piece + as shown in A.2. Happy knitting!

02.09.2022 - 15:24

country flag Daniela wrote:

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem nach der 2. Zunahme ab A5-A6. Nach der letzten Luftmasche von A4 habe ich 7 M übrig. Allerdings müsste ich jetzt 4 M rechts Stricken und dann 1Luft-M, 2 zus. und wieder 1 Luft-M , bleibt noch eine M vor der Mittel-M übrig damit die Strickschrift wie bei A2 passt. Auf der anderen Seite nach der Mittel-M wo es mit A6 weitergeht das gleiche Problem. Wenn ich A5 mit A2 Vergleiche dürfen hier nur 3M in der Mitte sein und nicht 5M wie angegeben.

13.01.2022 - 19:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Daniela, nach der 1. Zunahmen in A.5/A.6 sollen Sie nur 6 Maschen haben (A.5/A.6 werden über 5 Maschen bei der 1. Reihe gestrickt), und nach der 2. Zunahmen = 3. Reihe haben Sie dann 7 Maschen in A.5/A.6. Schauen Sie vielleicht bei der vorrigen Reihe? Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2022 - 09:04

country flag Jutta wrote:

Wie genau wird nach 10xA2 weiter gestrickt? Wird A3-A8 nur 1x in der Höhe gestrickt und dann einfach immer weiter, dass die Lochreihe um 1m verschoben wird oder wie ist das gemeint: nicht immer von unten neu lesen. Von wo muss ich denn nach jeder letzten r eines diagramms lesen.?

02.08.2021 - 13:51

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, A.3 bis A.8 werden für 8 cm gestrickt (von ca 55 cm bis 63 cm in der Mitte entlang der Mittel-M ) - die Lochreihen/Diagonalen wie zuvor 1 M rechts (A.3-A.5) / 1 M links (A.6-A.8) verschieben um die Diagonale zu verlängern. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

02.08.2021 - 14:29

country flag Jutta wrote:

In Anleitung steht.:beidseitig alle maschen , die im Diagramm nicht aufgeführt sind, außer die drei Randmaschen, glatt rechts. Nirgends steht, dass IMMER nach den drei kraus rechts ein Umschlag gestrickt wird. Und aus den Fragen habe ich entnommen, dass in der r Reihe lochmuster 4 m am Rand sind und vor u d nach 4 m ein U sein soll. Ist lt. Diagramm aber anders. Verstehe das nicht. Bitte um Hilfe.

25.07.2021 - 08:15

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Jutta, es wird so beim 1. Hinreihe erklärt und auch (Zitat): Insgesamt werden in jeder Hin-R 4 M zugenommen. - diese 4 M werden wie im vorrigen Satzt zugenommen, dh wie zuvor in A.1 nach den ersten 3 Maschen + vor den letzten 3 M + beidseiting von der mittelren Maschen. Kann das Ihnen helfen?

26.07.2021 - 08:53

country flag Amélie wrote:

Bonjour, merci de votre réponse mais justement, ce que je ne suis pas c'est qu'après les 3 m mousse je devrais faire un jeté, alors que cette maille est déjà elle même un jeté alors esthétiquement ça fait un gros trou..

05.11.2020 - 13:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Amélie, sur l'envers, tricotez les 3 m point mousse, puis faites 1 jeté, tricotez 1 m env (= le jeté du rang précédent), faites 1 jeté, et tricotez *2 m ens à l'end, 1 jeté* de *-* jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 5 m, terminez par 1 m env, 1 jeté, 1 m env (= le jeté du rang précédent), 1 jeté et 3 m point mousse. Ainsi, les jetés du rang précédent sont tricotés. J'espère avoir pu vous aider. Bon tricot!

05.11.2020 - 14:11