DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Lavender Touch Cardigan

Crochet DROPS jacket with broomstick lace in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-38
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-152
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 92-92-100-100-106-106 cm / 36 1/4"-36 1/4"-39½"-39½"-41 3/4"-41 3/4"
Full length: 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm / 28''-29 1/8''-30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33½''

Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
900-1000-1050-1200-1300-1450 g color no 4311, gray/purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 dc x 8.5 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 20 mm / US 36 – for pattern.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTONS NO 522: 4 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 59.40$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every row with 3 ch.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows:
Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc by working 2 dc in 1 dc.

PATTERN 1:
Work 1 dc in back loop of every dc on every row from RS and front loop of every dc on every row from WS.

BROOMSTICK LACE:
ROW 1 (= WS):
Slip the first ch on needle size 20 mm / US 36, * pick up 1 st on hook size 5 mm / H/8 through front loop of next st and slip st loosely on to needle size 20 mm / US 36 *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Use 2 needles size 20 mm / US 36 if needed. All sts on row are now loosely on needle size 20 mm / US 36.

ROW 2 (= RS):
* Insert hook through the first 5 sts on needle, work 1 sl st (this binds the 5 sts tog), slip sts off the needle and work ch 1, 5 sc through the 5 sts, work 1 ch *, repeat from *-* until 5 sts remain on needle, insert hook through the 5 sts on the needle, work 1 sl st (this binds the 5 sts tog), work ch 1, slip sts off the needle and work 5 sc through the 5 sts.

ROW 3 (= WS): 3 ch – see CROCHET INFO above, 1 dc in front loop of every sc on previous row (i.e. do not work in ch and sl sts on previous row).

ROW 4 (= RS): 1 dc in back loop of every dc on previous row.

Repeat rows 1-4.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth from mid front.
Work 203-212-235-250-277-296 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal. Work next row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next 1-4-3-0-3-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 167-175-194-206-229-245 dc (first 3 ch = 1 dc).
READ CROCHET INFO! Insert 1 marker after 48-50-56-59-66-70 dc in from each side (= 71-75-82-88-97-105 dc between markers on back piece). Then work PATTERN 1 - see explanation above. When 6 rows have been worked, work pattern 1 over the outermost 10 sts in each side of piece and dc through both loops of st over the remaining sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE! Work the outermost 10 sts in each side of piece in pattern 1 until finished measurements. When piece measures approx. 13 cm / 5'', dec 1 dc on each side of both markers (= 4 sts dec) - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 13-7-6-4-3½-2½cm 2-4-5-8-10-14 more times. After all dec 155-155-170-170-185-185 dc remain on row, i.e. there are now 45-45-50-50-55-55 dc on each front piece and 65-65-70-70-75-75 dc on back piece. Work dc until piece measures approx. 42-45-47-50-51-53 cm / 16½"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 3/4"-20"-21", adjust so that next row is from WS. Then work BROOMSTICK LACE – see explanation above, over all sts. When piece measures 51-54-56-59-60-62 cm / 20"-21 1/4"-22"-23 1/4"-23½"-24½", adjust so that next row is 4th row (= RS) in broomstick lace, finish each front piece and back piece separately.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work broomstick lace as before until 5 dc remain before marker = 40-40-45-45-50-50 dc (5 dc = armhole). Continue with broomstick lace as before over these sts. Work until piece measures 71-74-77-80-83-85 cm / 28''-29 1/8''-30 3/8''-31½''-32¾''-33½'', adjust to finish with 3rd or 4th row in broomstick lace. The outermost 20-20-22-22-24-24 sts towards armhole = shoulder, these are no longer worked. Then work pattern 1 over the 20-20-23-23-26-26 sts towards mid front (= collar). Work 4 or 5 rows, adjust so that next row is from RS. Then work short rows from mid front as follows: 1 dc in each of the first 12-12-15-15-18-18 dc, * 1 tr in next dc, 1 sc in next dc and 1 sl st in next dc, turn piece with 1 ch. Skip sl st and work 1 sl st in sc, 1 sc in tr, 1 tr in first dc and dc the rest of row *. Turn and work 1 dc in each of the first 8-8-11-11-14-14 dc, then repeat on same row from *-* 1 more time. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed. Beg short rows from WS.

BACK PIECE:
Work broomstick lace as before over the middle 55-55-60-60-65-65 dc (5 dc in each side = armholes). When piece measures 69-72-75-78-81-83 cm / 27 1/8''-28 3/8''-29½''-30¾''-32''-32¾'', adjust so that next row is 3rd or 4th row in broomstick lace, work 1 row with dc over the outermost 20-20-22-22-24-24 dc in each side (the middle 15-15-16-16-17-17 dc = neck). Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth and sewn tog afterwards.
Work 44-44-44-50-50-50 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal. Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook. Continue with 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 35-35-35-40-40-40 dc. Then work pattern 1. When 6 rows have been worked like this (piece measures approx. 8 cm / 3 1/8'') and last row is from RS, work broomstick lace until finished measurements. When piece measures 10 cm / 4'', adjust so that next row is 3rd row in broomstick lace, inc 2 dc evenly on 3rd row in broomstick lace – read INCREASE TIP above. Then inc 3 dc evenly on next row = 40-40-40-45-45-45 dc. * Work 1 repetition of broomstick lace vertically. Work 1st-2nd row of broomstick lace, then inc 2 dc evenly on 3rd row in broomstick lace. Then inc 3 dc evenly on next row = 5 dc inc *, repeat from *-* 2-2-3-2-3-3 more times vertically = 55-55-60-60-65-65 dc. Work broomstick lace until piece measures 55-56-55-56-56-57 cm / 21½"-22"-21½"-22"-22"-22½" vertically, adjust to finish with 3rd or 4th row. Fasten off. Work another sleeve the same way.

POCKET:
Work 32 ch (includes 3 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal. Work next row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, then work 1 dc in each of the next ch 4, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 5 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 25 dc (first 3 ch = 1 dc). Then work pattern 1 until piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', adjust so that last row is from RS. Work 1st and 2nd row in broomstick lace (= 5 repetitions). Fasten off. Work another pocket the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew collar tog mid back, edge to edge and then sew collar to neck line on back piece. Sew tog sleeves edge to edge. NOTE: Only sew in dc rows on sleeve. Sew sleeves in body. NOTE: Only sew sleeves to dc rows on body. Sew the pockets on to front piece. Sew on buttons evenly down on left band – top button should be 1 cm / 3/8'' down from broomstick lace. Button through dc on right band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Anneke wrote:

Hallo, Dank u wel voor jullie geduldige uitleg! Ik zie nu (eindelijk) hoe ik het werk in elkaar moet naaien. Geweldig, die ondersteuning na verkoop. Merci!

14.01.2024 - 18:20

country flag Anneke wrote:

Hallo, Excuses, maar ik begrijp echt niet wat hiermee bedoeld wordt: "De bovenkant van de laatste toer van het rechter voorpand wordt tegen de bovenkant van de laatste toer van het rechter voorpand genaaid. Deze naad komt midden achter en dan wordt de kraag tegen de halslijn op het achterpand genaaid." Ik heb allerlei geprobeerd, maar ik zie het echt niet. Kan u het eventueel in andere bewoordingen uitleggen. Vriendelijke groet.

12.01.2024 - 02:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Aan de voorpanden heb je op een gegeven moment niet meer over de schoudersteken gehaakt, maar alleen over de steken aan de kant van midden voor. De laatste toer hiervan komt tegen de laatste toer van het andere voorpand. Dus de kopse kant wordt tegen de kopse kant van het andere voorpand genaaid. Daarna wordt de halslijn tegen het achterpand genaaid, waarbij de naad van de kopse kanten tegen midden achter komt.

14.01.2024 - 13:19

country flag Anneke wrote:

Hallo, Betreffende mijn vraag over model nr ne-152 en uw antwoord, Comment 18: ik heb geen twee flapjes op het rugpand. Volgens het patroon dat ik volgde zitten die flapjes aan de voorkant, meer bepaald 1 aan het linker- en 1 aan het rechtervoorpand. Als ik een foto kon toevoegen zou het misschien duidelijker zijn. Of kan u mij zo helpen om dit op te lossen? Fijn nieuwjaar! Anneke

31.12.2023 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Bij het voorpand heb je op een gegeven moment niet meer over de buitenste 20 tot 24 st (afhankelijk van je maat) gehaakt, maar alleen over de steken midden voor, voor de kraag. Dat laatste stukje bedoel ik het 'flapje' mee. De bovenkant van de laatste toer van het rechter voorpand wordt tegen de bovenkant van de laatste toer van het rechter voorpand genaaid. Deze naad komt midden achter en dan wordt de kraag tegen de halslijn op het achterpand genaaid.

01.01.2024 - 13:10

country flag Anneke Nelissen wrote:

Hallo, ik heb model nr ne-152 gehaakt. Bij de afwerking begrijp ik niet wat bedoeld wordt met:"naai de kraag samen middenachter, met de zijkanten tegen elkaar en naai dan de kraag langs de hals op het achterpand. Is hier ergens een instructievideo van te vinden? Vriendelijke groet, Anneke

28.12.2023 - 03:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Als het goed is heb je 2 'flapjes' aan de achterkant voor de kraag. Deze naai je met de korte kanten tegen elkaar, zodat je een naad hebt, precies midden achter in de hals. Daarna naai je de kraag langs de halslijn, dus tegen het pand.

30.12.2023 - 18:00

country flag Lorena wrote:

Me podrian explicar a que se refiere donde dice: después hacer 1 p.a. en cada una de las 1-4-3-0-3-4 cad sig, ¿1-4-3-0-3-4?

26.08.2020 - 00:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Lorena. Los patrones de DROPS están preparados para varias tallas. Cuando hay en las explicaciones varios números se trabaja como sigue: el primer número es para la talla más pequeña, el siguiente número para la siguiente talla, etc. Cuando solo hay número, eso significa que es igual para todas las tallas.

30.08.2020 - 20:08

country flag Anna Hayward wrote:

I love Drops Designs, but I cannot seem to make sense of your sizing. I recently made this cardigan for my mother, who is a UK size 20. I made it XL but its a little too small. It seems from the measurements that the largest size for this cardigan correlates to a UK size 16 (which isn\'t that large). Should I use a larger hook?

17.09.2018 - 18:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, the sizing always depends on the style of the piece, the used yarn, etc. Please always refer to the given measurements for each size and see the drawing at the bottom of the page as well. Always make a trial swatch and adjust your needle accordingly. If the piece you made is too small, you should use a biffer hook / needle. Happy Crafting.

18.09.2018 - 04:42

country flag Helen Kaiser wrote:

Do you happen to have a picture of the collar? I am having problems trying to figure out how to attach. I LOVE these patterns I have another in progress and a few more I am going to make :)

01.01.2018 - 18:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Kaiser, there is no picture from the collar, just work as explained, ie short rows to give the collar the correct shape (it will be longer towards mid front and shorter towards shoulder). Happy crocheting!

02.01.2018 - 11:31

country flag Nathalie Marchand wrote:

Bonjour, je suis rendue à assembler mon cardigan, mais en lisant les indiquations je vois qu'on m'indique d' assembler le col, mais je n'ai pas les indiquations pour le faire??? pouvez-vous m'aider? Merci à l'avance et merci pour vos patrons superbes

28.11.2016 - 23:02

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Marchand, cousez le dernier rang des 2 parties du col (devant droit et devant gauche) entre elles puis cousez le col le long de l'encolure dos (la couture des 2 moitiés de col doit arriver approx. au milieu de l'encolure dos). Bon assemblage!

29.11.2016 - 09:15

country flag Andrea Stein wrote:

Finde diese Broomstick Lace Muster wunderschön. Gibt es noch mehr Modelle ausser 158-38, bzw. 158-39, damit?

03.09.2016 - 12:31

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Stein, wir haben auch einen Set mit Mütze, Kragenschal und Fäustlinge - siehe 158-13 und 158-14. Viel Spass!

05.09.2016 - 08:52

country flag Amanda wrote:

I am having so much trouble reading drops patterns can anyone help me to understand better just love all patterns thankyou

04.08.2016 - 02:16

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amanda, you are welcome to ask your question here or to contact your DROPS store for any further personnal assistance even per mail or telephone. Happy crocheting!

04.08.2016 - 10:32