DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Brume

Knitted DROPS jumper with false English rib in "Air" or "Brushed Alpaca Silk". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 158-25
DROPS design: Pattern no ai-002
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 96-100-108-116-130-142 cm / 37 3/4"-39½"-42½"-45 3/4"-51½"-55 3/4"
Full length: 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''

Materials:
DROPS AIR from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g color no 04, medium gray
Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
175-200-225-225-250-275 g color no 02, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4 mm/ US 6 - or size needed to get 19 sts in false rib = 4" (10 cm).
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 1 piece for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Air
DROPS Air
65% Alpaca, 28% Polyamide, 7% Wool
from 6.45 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.15$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

MEASURING TIP:
All measurements must be done when piece is held up because the texture makes the piece elastic.

FALSE ENGLISH RIB (back and forth on needle + 1 edge st in garter st in each side):
Row 1: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P (with yarn behind piece) *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Row 2: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, P tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row upwards.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Dec 1 st in each side by K 2 tog inside 1 edge st in garter st. Work sts in the side that do not fit the pattern in garter st.
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JUMPER:

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 93-97-105-113-125-137 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with 2 strands Air or Brushed Alpaca Silk. Then continue piece with 1 strand. Work in GARTER ST – see explanation above – until piece measures 2 cm / 3/4''. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Then work FALSE ENGLISH RIB - see explanation above. READ MEASURING TIP! When piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', bind off 5 sts in each side. On next row cast on 1 edge st in each side which is worked in garter st until finished measurements = 84-88-96-104-116-128 sts. Continue to work until piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm / 22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''. Work the first 27-29-32-36-41-47 sts as before, bind off the middle 30-30-32-32-34-34 sts and work the rest of row. Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: On next row dec 1 more st towards the neck = 26-28-31-35-40-46 sts. Work until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½''. K 1 row from WS and bind off with K on next row. Work the same way on the other side.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece until piece measures 40-42-44-46-48-50 cm / 15¾''-16½''-17¼''-18''-19''-19¾'', then work in garter st over the middle 7 sts. When piece measures 43-45-47-49-51-53 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"-21", bind off the middle of these sts in garter st, and finish shoulder separately with 3 sts in garter st towards mid front = 46-48-52-56-62-68 sts on each side. Work until piece measures 45-46-47-48-49-50 cm / 17¾''-18''-18½''-19''-19¼''-19¾'', then bind off 5 sts towards the side, on next row cast on 1 edge st in garter st as on back piece = 42-44-48-52-58-64 sts. When piece measures 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm / 19 3/4''-20½''-21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8'', bind off for neck as follows: 6-6-7-7-8-8 sts 1 time, 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 3 times and 1 st 1 time. After neck dec, there are 26-28-31-35-40-46 sts on needle. Work until piece measures 60-62-64-66-68-70 cm / 23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''-26''-26¾''-27½'', K 1 row from WS and bind off with K from RS. Work the same way on the other side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog shoulder seams inside bind-off edges.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle with Air or Brushed Alpaca Silk. Beg in right side of right front piece and pick up approx. 64-72 sts from RS along neck edge. K 1 row from WS. K 1 row and at the same time dec for 1 buttonhole by K tog 3rd and 4th st and making a YO. K 1 row from WS, K YO to make a hole. Work 1 ridge and bind off with 2 strands from RS.

SLEEVES:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, top down. Beg from RS and pick up 60-80 sts with circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and Air or Brushed Alpaca Silk. Pick up st between bind off for armhole (NOTE: Do not work over the dec sts for armhole). P 1 row - AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 57-61-65-69-73-77 and cast on 5 new sts in each side of piece = 67-71-75-79-83-87 sts. Then work piece in false English rib with 1 edge st in garter st in each side - AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 3 cm / 1'', bind off 1 st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 4-4-3-3-3-2 cm / 1½"-1½"-1"-1"-1"-3/4" 9-10-11-12-13-14 times in total = 49-51-53-55-57-59 sts. Work until sleeve measures 48-48-47-47-44-42 cm / 19"-19"-18½"-18½"-17 1/4"-16½". Work in garter st over all sts for 2 cm / 3/4'' and bind off 2 strands. Make another sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeves tog inside 1 edge st, sew sts cast on on sleeve to sts bind off for armhole on body. Finally sew down along the side of front piece and back piece. Sew on button at the top of left front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 12.11.2014
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32\'\') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 19 sts in false rib = 4\'\' (10 cm).

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag LAETITIA wrote:

Bonjour, Vous écrivez que pour le rang 2 des côtes anglaises, il faut tricoter ensemble à l'envers les mailles glissées et le jeté mais sur la vidéo, elles sont tricotées à l'endroit. Qu'est ce qui est exact?

28.07.2023 - 16:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Laetitia, les deux sont justes, dans la vidéo, le rang 2 est un rang sur l'endroit, dans ce modèle, le rang 2 est un rang sur l'envers. Bon tricot!

31.07.2023 - 12:02

country flag Andrea wrote:

Wird das wirklich mit einer 4mm dicken stricknadel gestrickt?

23.11.2021 - 16:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Andrea, wir haben Nadeln Nr 4 benutzt, aber beachten Sie, daß Ihre Maschenprobe stimmt (19 M im falschen Patent = 10 cm in der Breite). Mehr über Maschenprobe lesen Sie hier. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

24.11.2021 - 08:02

country flag Bregje Winterberg Sonnen wrote:

Hoe brei ik deze trui met gewone naalden? Hoeveel steken moet ik dan opzetten voor het voorpand, het achterpand en de mouwen?

31.03.2021 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Bregje,

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

01.04.2021 - 20:10

country flag Henriette Erichsen wrote:

Er det kun i opslag af masker at der bruges to tråde brustes Alpaca og at resten af arbejdet strikkes kun med 1 tråd?

23.07.2020 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Henriette, Ja det stemmer, du slår op med to tråde og strikker videre med kun én tråd. God fornøjelse!

27.07.2020 - 15:40

country flag Åse Jenny Johnsen wrote:

Jeg holder på og strikker genser i Air - Modell nr ai-002. Jeg skjønner ikke helt forklaringen på halskanten. Jeg skal strikke opp 64-70 masker (jeg går ut i fra at det er str fra s-XXXL). Ca 64 masker blir jo for lite rundet hele halskanten? Eller hva?

18.02.2020 - 11:19

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Åse, jo det skal være nok masker, men sørg for at lukke løst af. Bliver halsen for stram ifølge din smag, så kan du naturligvis strikke flere masker op. God fornøjelse!

18.02.2020 - 14:33

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bonjour Vous dites: "Tricoter 1 rang env - EN MÊME TEMPS, ajuster le nombre de mailles à 57-61-65-69-73-77 et monter 5 m de chaque côté = 67-71-75-79-83-87 m." je comprends que je dois tricoter un rang puis au rang suivant ajuster le nombre de maille et encore au rang suivant (le 3ème donc) remonter à nouveau des mailles ...c'est bien ça? et si oui de quelle manière j'ajuste mes mailles au deuxième rang? merci de votre aide, je suis perdue ....

07.03.2019 - 06:47

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, quand vous avez relevé toutes vos mailles, montez 5 mailles à la fin de ce rang, tournez, tricotez 1 rang sur l'envers en ajustant le nombre de mailles relevées à 57-61-65-69-73-77 et montez 5 mailles à la fin de ce rang, vous avez maintenant 67-71-75-79-83-87 m sur l'aiguille. Bon tricot!

07.03.2019 - 09:47

country flag Susanne Ekblom wrote:

Hej, vad gäller framstycket har jag förstått rätt när jag antar att avmaskning för halsöppning och ärmhål ska göras samtdigt vid 50 cm i storl xxxl?

13.11.2018 - 18:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Susanne. Du feller av masker i hver side til ermhull når arbeidet måler 50 cm, og du feller av 1 maske midt foran når arbeidet måler 53 cm (den åpningen med knapp midt foran). Du feller av til selve halskanten når arbeidet måler 60 cm. God fornøyelse.

15.11.2018 - 09:44

country flag Sissel Anderson wrote:

Hei:) På forstykket står det "Når arbeidet måler 47 cm" to ganger(Str. L). Det kan vel ikke stemme? Mvh Sissel

30.10.2018 - 21:12

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Sissel. Jo, dette stemmer. Da skal du gjøre de to tingene samtidig: Altså felle den midterste av rillemaskene midt foran, og felle 5 masker mot siden. God fornøyelse.

31.10.2018 - 11:11

country flag Marjan wrote:

Ik wil de trui in averechtse tricotsteek breien. Heb ik extra materiaal nodig? met vriendelijke groet, Marjan

18.01.2018 - 16:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Marjan, Je hebt daarvoor verder geen extra materiaal nodig, maar je moet wel even een proeflapje maken om te kijken of de stekenverhouding klopt als je hem in averechtse tricot breit.

20.01.2018 - 12:33

country flag Gry wrote:

Nydelig genser, men strikkefastheten stemmer ikke. Ser at mange har problemer med den. Har nå gått ned en pinnestørrelse og får 16 m på 10cm. 😡

28.07.2016 - 10:06