DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Baby 25-19
DROPS design: Pattern no u-064-by
Yarn group B
-----------------------------------------------------------
Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Waist: 40-48-50-54 (56-58) cm / 15 3/4"-19"-19 3/4"-21 1/4" (22"-22 3/4")
Full length: 32-36-42-46 (52-59) cm / 12½"-14 1/4"-16½"-18" (20½"-23 1/4")

Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
100-150-150-150 (150-200) g color no 01, off white
50 g for all sizes in color no 71, light beige

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 50 cm / 16" or 20") SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 3 mm / US 2.5 - for rib.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

DROPS Karisma
DROPS Karisma
100% Wool
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc on each side of the middle 2 sts at the front and back (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts). Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next round work YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Beg 2 sts before marker and work as follows: K 2 tog, (marker), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.
--------------------------------------------------------

PANTS:
Worked in the round from the waist down.
Cast on 100-120-124-136 (140-144) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 with light beige - beg of round = mid back. Work 1 round rib = K 2/P 2, switch to off white and continue rib.
When rib measures 4 cm / 1½'', switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 16-20-20-22 (22-22) sts evenly = 84-100-104-114 (118-122) sts.
Now work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME working an elevation in the back as follows: Work 6-6-6-7 (7-7) sts from beg of round, turn piece (to avoid holes, slip first st on return and tighten yarn).
Work 12-12-12-14 (14-14) sts and turn piece.
Work 18-18-18-21 (21-21) sts and turn piece.
Work 24-24-24-28 (28-28) sts and turn piece.
Continue like this by working 6-6-6-7 (7-7) sts more on every turn 6 more times (= 10 short rows in total).
Then in stockinette st in the round over all sts.
When piece measures 12-13-16-17 (18-19) cm / 4 3/4"-5"-6 1/4"-6 3/4" (7"-7½") from the waist (measured mid front), insert 1 marker at the beg of round and 1 marker after 42-50-52-57 (59-61) sts (marks mid front and mid back).
On next round, inc 1 st on each side of these markers (= 4 sts inc per round) - READ INCREASE TIP!
Repeat inc every 4 rounds 3 more times (= 4 inc in total) = 100-116-120-130 (134-138) sts.
When piece measures 17-18-21-22 (23-24) cm / 6 3/4"-7"-8 1/4"-8 3/4" (9"-9½") from waist measures mid front (inc are now done), bind off 4 sts mid front and mid back (i.e. 2 sts on each side of both markers).
Finish each leg piece separately. Slip the sts for one leg on 1 stitch holder.

LEG:
= 46-54-56-61 (63-65) sts. Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 and continue in stockinette st in the round - insert 1 marker on the inside of leg = beg of round.
After 1 cm / ½'' dec 1 st on each side of marker - READ DECREASE TIP.
Repeat dec 9-9-9-9 (7-6) more times (= 10-10-10-10 (8-7) dec in total) as follows:
SIZE 0/1 MONTHS: Alternately on every 2nd and 3rd round.
SIZE 1/3 MONTHS: Every 3rd round.
SIZE 6/9 MONTHS: Every 4th round.
SIZE 12/18 MONTHS: Every 5th round.
SIZE 2 YEARS: Every 8th round.
SIZE 3/4 YEARS: Every 12th round.
= 26-34-36-41 (47-51) sts.
When piece measures approx. 26-30-36-40 (46-53) cm / 10 1/4"-11 3/4"-14 1/4"-15 3/4" (18"-21") from the waist (dec are now done), switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5.
Then work in GARTER ST - see explanation above, as follows: * 2 ridges off white, 1 ridge light beige *, repeat from *-* until edge in garter st measures approx. 6 cm / 2½'' – finish after 2 ridges off white and loosely bind off.
Work the other leg the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew tog opening between legs.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

You might also like...

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 25-19

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

Comments / Questions (10)

country flag Jessie wrote:

Hej, jeg forstår ikke når der skal strikkes forkortede pinde - ''Fortsæt således ved at strikke 6-6-6-7 (7-7) m mere for hver gang det vendes 6 gange til''. Jeg forstår ikke hvornår de 6 ekstra masker til forkortetpind skal strikkes? ind mellem de 6, 12, 18 og 24 masker eller hvad? hvis man stikker det efter får man jo en spids med de korte forkortede pinde?

26.06.2023 - 12:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Jessie. Omgangens begynnelse er midt bak. Sett et merke her for lettere å se midt bak. Strikk 6 masker (i den minste str.), snu arbeidet og strikk 12 masker (merket sitter midt mellom disse 12 maskene). Snu og strikk 18 masker (12 masker på den ene siden av merket og 6 masker på den andre siden). Snu og strikk 24 masker (12 masker på hver side av merket). Fortsett slik å strikke 6 mere masker for hver gang det snus og strikk det antall forkortede pinner det står i oppskriften. Sett gjerne merker hver gang du snur, da har du enda lettere å se hvor du skal snu. Se evnt hjelpevidoene til denne bukse. mvh DROPS Design

26.06.2023 - 14:02

country flag Béatrice wrote:

Bonjour et merci pour votre site. Puis je faire ce modèle à plat, car je ne sais pas comment faire pour les rangs raccourcis qui ne correspondront pas. Merci pour votre réponse.

26.11.2022 - 11:41

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Béatrice, nous ne sommes malheureusement pas en mesure de pouvoir adapter chacun de nos modèles à chaque demande, vous trouverez quelques pantalons réalisés en rangs qui pourront peut-être vous inspirer, ou bien n'hésitez pas à contacter votre magasin (même par mail ou téléphone) pour toute assistance individualisée. Bon tricot!

28.11.2022 - 09:06

country flag Dianne wrote:

Beautiful and timeless! Loved making the Little Darcy baby outfit for my new grand baby!

27.01.2022 - 18:54

country flag Corinne wrote:

Bonjour, Vous dites : "glisser la 1ère m au début du rang suivant et serrer le fil). Tricoter 12-12-12-14 (14-14) m et tourner l'ouvrage. " ma question est la suivante: la maille glissée est-elle comprise dans le chiffre 12? ou bien au contraire je dois glisser une maille et ensuite en tricoter 12? merci par avance pour votre aide ...et tous les merveilleux patrons que vous nous proposez ;o))

02.04.2019 - 12:56

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Corinne, tout à fait, elle va compter dans le nombre de mailles à tricoter au rang suivant. cette vidéo montre comment tricoter la réhausse d'un pantalon et celle-ci la technique de base des rangs raccourcis . Bon tricot!

02.04.2019 - 15:28

country flag Edith wrote:

Eine schöne Anleitung, ich habe nur die verkürzten Reihen mit Wickelmaschen gestrickt, da ich sonst egal wie fest ich anziehe Löcher habe. Eine Frage habe ich jedoch, welche Methode würden Sie zum Schließen des Schritts empfehlen? Mein erster Versuch wurde zu wulstig und auch unflexibel. Vielen Dank

03.03.2019 - 00:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Edith, dieses Video zeigt wie man die Erhöhung strickt - die verkürzten Reihe mit Umschläge stricken Sie wie in diesem Video bei den Hinreihen und wie in diesem Video bei den Rückreihen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.03.2019 - 09:28

country flag Rosalie wrote:

Bonjour, Pourriez vous me préciser si sur le bas des jambes du pantalon il est prévu un revers, je n'arrive pas à le voir précisément sur la photo. Comme je ne veux pas de revers, je serai alors obligée de réduire la hauteur des jambes. Merci pour votre réponse

27.09.2016 - 16:25

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Rosalie, les jambes se terminent par une bordure point mousse, sans revers. Vous pouvez toujours ajuster la longueur des jambes souhaitée sur la base du schéma des mesures et d'un vêtement similaire. Bon tricot!

28.09.2016 - 08:29

country flag Pia wrote:

Hallo, Ich wickle meine Zwillinge mit Stoffwindeln, daher haben sie ein entsprechend größeres Windelpaket. Sind die Schnitte speziell dieser hier denn so üppig geschnitten, dass ich die Hose nach Fertigstellung über die Popos bekomme? Gibt es vielleicht Erfahrungswerte, wie und was genau geändert werden muss? Ich freue mich über jede Anregung und Hilfe, die mir ein ständiges Aufribbeln und neu Stricken ersparen.

08.09.2015 - 12:51

country flag Anna wrote:

Ik had een vraag over het volgende gedeelte van het patroon. Brei in tricotst en brei TEGELIJKERTIJD een ronding op het achterpand als volgt: brei 6-6-6-7 (7-7) st vanaf het begin van de toer, keer het werk (voorkom gaatjes, haal de eerste st af en trek als u keert de draad goed aan). Daarna komen nog 13 verkorte toeren. Ik vroeg me af of je elke keer als je het werk keert de eerste st moet afhalen? Als je het inderdaad maar 1 keer hoeft te doen wat is hier dan het voordeel van?

19.07.2015 - 10:13

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Anna. Je haalt de eerste st r af elke keer je keert. Je doet dit om een gaatje in de overgang te voorkomen.

29.07.2015 - 14:00

country flag Erika wrote:

Hei, i denne oppskriften står det "målt fra livet", menes det da fra oppleggskanten eller fra slutten på ribbestrikken?

02.07.2015 - 23:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Erika, ja du måler fra oppleggskanten midt foran. God fornøjelse!

08.07.2015 - 15:36

country flag Vanessa wrote:

Ich habe eine Frage zu den verkürzten Reihen: Wenn ich das richtig verstehe werden die verkürzten Reihen am Rundenanfang auf einer Seite gestrick? Wahrscheinlich habe ich das falsch verstanden, oder? Sonst würde die Arbeit ja am Schluss nicht bündig zusammen genäht werden können..

01.07.2014 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Vanessa, Sie stricken die verk. R über den Rd-Beginn hinaus. Sie starten von der Vorderseite am Rd-Beginn (= hintere Mitte), stricken die angegebenen M, wenden & stricken die angegebenen M zurück - so stricken Sie dann die gleiche Anzahl an M rechts und links neben dem Rd-Beginn. So stricken Sie weiter, d.h. beidseitig des Rd-Beginns werden immer gleich viele M gestrickt. Nach den verk. R stricken Sie wieder in Rd über alle M weiter und müssen daher oben gar nichts zusammennähen.

01.07.2014 - 16:16