DROPS Baby 25-14
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-010-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Fits head circumference: approx. 34/38 - 40/42 - 42/44 - 44/46 (48/50 - 50/52) cm / 13½”/15”-16’’-17’’-18’’ (19’’-20’’)

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
50 g for all sizes in color no 1306, powder
50 g for all sizes in color no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 8 texture rows vertically = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round/row with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row sc from WS, 1 row dc from RS *, repeat from *-* (1 row sc + 1 row dc = 1 texture row).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc/dc by working 2 sc/dc in same st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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BONNET:
Piece is first worked in the round, from mid back, then work back and forth over head.
Ch 4 on hook size 3.5 mm/E with powder and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: READ CROCHET INFO! Work 12 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in every dc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: Work 2 dc in every sc = 24 dc.
ROUND 4: Work 1 sc in every dc = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * Work 1 dc in first sc, 2 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 36 dc.
ROUND 6: Work 1 sc in every dc = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 sc in every dc = 48 sc.
Stop here in size 0/1 + 1/3 months.
ROUND 9: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 3 sc, 2 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 60 dc.
ROUND 10: Work 1 sc in every dc = 60 sc.
Stop here in size 6/9 + 12/18 months.
ROUND 11: * Work 1 dc in each of the first 4 sc, 2 dc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 72 dc.
ROUND 12: Work 1 sc in every dc = 72 sc.
Stop here in size 2 + 3/4 years.

ALL SIZES:
Insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sts (seen from RS).
Beg from RS at marker at beg of round and work 1 dc in every sc until second marker AT THE SAME TIME inc 20-26-20-28 (20-22) dc evenly over these sts – READ INCREASE TIP = 62-68-74-80 (84-86) dc on row (do not work over the 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sc between the 2 markers).
Then work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth – see explanation above, until piece measures approx. 8-9-10-11 (12-13) cm / 3”-3½”-4”-4½” (4¾”-5”) from markers – finish after 1 row with sc from WS. Fasten off.

EYELET HOLES FOR TIES:
Work an edge at the bottom of hat with powder as follows:
Begin from RS and work sc along one short side at the bottom of bonnet (work 1 sc in every sc-row and 2-3 sc in every dc-row), work 1 sc in each of the 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sc between the 2 markers on circle and work sc along the other short side (1 sc in every sc-row and 2-3 sc in every dc-row).
Turn piece and work 1 row more with sc AT THE SAME TIME make sure number of sc’s are divisible by 5 + 1. Work next row as follows: ch 1, 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, * skip 2 sc, ch 2, 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, skip 2 sc, ch 2 and work 1 sc in each of the last 2 sc.
Work 2 rows back and forth with sc (1 sc in every sc and 2 sc in every ch-space). Fasten off.

TIES:
Cut 4 lengths off white yarn of 2.5 metres/2.75 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread tie up and down through the eyelet holes on hat.

FAN EDGE:
Switch to off white and work 1 row sc from WS at the front of hat AT THE SAME TIME inc evenly to 64-70-76-82 (88-94) sc – READ INCREASE TIP. Then work FAN PATTERN according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): ch 1, 1 sc in first sc, * ch 3, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21-23-25-27 (29-31) ch-spaces, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 dc in first sc from beg of previous row = 11-12-13-14 (15-16) dc-groups with 1 dc between every dc-group, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in first dc-group, * 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the mid of next dc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row, fasten off.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 07.05.2019
Correction - ALL SIZES: Beg from RS at marker at beg of round and work 1 dc in every sc until second marker

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (35)

country flag ANGELIQUE THOMAS wrote:

Bonjour j'aimerais savoir pourl'augmentation du 10em tour , je suis a 60m en fesant le tour de bride il me reste le 6 derniere brides j'augmente de 2 b dans chaque mail sauf la dernier qui est de 1b je ferme en ms qui me fait 68 b en tout pars la suite je continue pour en ms le otur d'apres et je reprend sur le tour suivant avec 68 brides si j'ai bien compris c'est ça , car augmenter jusque 74 je comprend pas trop merci d'avance angelique

15.02.2021 - 16:05

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Thomas, on n'augmente pas au 10ème tour (ni aucun des tours en mailles serrées), - vous devez avoir 60 mailles serrées que vous crochetez sur les 60 brides du 9ème tour = on augmente 12 mailles par tour. Au 11ème tour, augmentez comme indiqué (= 2 brides dans chaque 5ème bride), vous avez 72 mailles. Au 12ème tour, crochetez 1 ms dans chaque bride = 72 ms. Bon crochet!

16.02.2021 - 10:09

country flag Eva wrote:

Dobrý den. Nevychází mi střídání rub-líc. Háčkuji do 8. řady. Poté začínáme z rubové strany DS (celkem 62) a poté se mají háčkovat plastické řady- začínají KS. Jenže KS mají být taky z rubové strany, což při otočení práce nevychází...

27.01.2021 - 22:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dobrý den, Evo, díky za postřeh - máte pravdu, v návodu byla chyba. Text už je opraven: po dokončení 8. řady pokračujete z LÍCOVÉ strany (viz odstavec VŠECHNY VELIKOSTI). Hodně zdaru! Hana

28.01.2021 - 16:15

country flag Valerie wrote:

J'ai 60 mailles en tout au 10 ème tour (taille 6/9 mois) Comment arriver a 74 mailles avec 20 augmentations* ? *:d'après explications :tailles:0/1+1/3 mois=6-6 marqueurs et 20-26 augm 6/9 mois 12/18 mois=6-8 marqueurs et 20-28 augm... Or 74 ms+20 augm=94 brides non?

16.09.2020 - 04:58

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, vous avez 60 m au tour 10 et ne crochetez pas les 6 mailles entre les marqueurs = 1 bride dans les 6 premières m + 1 bride dans chacune des 48 m suivantes (= il reste 6 m avant le marqueur) en augmentant 20 m = 68 brides + les 6 premières du tour = 74 m - et les 6 m entre les marqueurs n'ont pas été crochetées (= milieu dos, côté nuque). Bon crochet!

16.09.2020 - 09:06

country flag Jules wrote:

145 of DROPS design patterns are being SOLD at outrageous prices on Etsy by a shop calling themselves Schemes Creations - I have a link but it will not allow me to add it - buyers are paying for these and they do not realise there is no need to. The shop needs a takedown notice and soon.

09.09.2020 - 17:38

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jules, thanks for your feedback, you are welcome to help us by reporting them. Thank you! Happy crocheting!

10.09.2020 - 11:55

country flag Charlotte wrote:

"ALLA STL: Börja från rätsidan vid markören i v början och virka 1 st i varje fm fram till den andra markören SAMTIDIGT som det ökas 20-26-20-28 (20-22) st jämnt fördelat över dessa m." Hur virkar jag 1st i varje fm och samtidigt öka med 20st? Ska ökningen göras genom att vända arb och virka 20st ovanpå maskorna mellan markörerna? Eller ska jag göra 3 eller 4st i varjeav de 6fm mellan markörerna? Kan ni förklara denna delen tydligare?

07.05.2020 - 15:09

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Charlotte. Les ØKETIPS i oppskriften, der står det beskrevet hvordan du skal øke. Eller les her: ØKETIPS: Det økes 1 fastmaske/stav ved å hekle 2 fastmasker/staver i samme maske. God Fornøyelse!

11.05.2020 - 08:56

country flag Irene Rameckers wrote:

Kunt u mij de diameter zeggen van het rondje na de eerste 8 touren?

07.10.2019 - 11:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Irene,

De stekenverhouding geeft aan dat 8 toeren in de hoogte met structuurpatroon, 10 cm is. Dan zou je dus op een diameter van ongeveer 20 cm komen.

11.10.2019 - 20:28

country flag Thelma wrote:

One more question, so before the increase I have 72sc. Then after the increase row, should I have total 86dc or 94dc in the end of that row? Because you say I should do 1dc in every sc to the second marker, that is 8sc right? meaning i should do 8dc right? Then in the next 64sc do 86dc evenly throughout those 64sc to the end. Then it will be 94dc in the end(counting the 8dc between the markers with) , right? I dont know why, but how this is put up is so confusing haha

15.09.2019 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Thelma, at the end of the first row, there will be 94 sts but you won't work anymore the first 8 stitches at the beg of the row (= between both markers) = you are now working over 86 sts only (from 2nd marker from RS to 1st marker from RS, then turn and work next row from WS from the first marker to the 2nd marker and so on). Happy crocheting!

16.09.2019 - 11:21

country flag Thelma wrote:

One more question, so before the increase I have 72sc. Then after the increase row, should I have total 86dc or 94dc in the end of that row? Because you say I should do 1dc in every sc to the second marker, that is 8sc right? meaning i should do 8dc right? Then in the next 64sc do 86dc evenly throughout those 64sc to the end. Then it will be 94dc in the end(counting the 8dc between the markers with) , right? I dont know why, but how this is put up is so confusing haha

15.09.2019 - 17:35

country flag Thelma wrote:

Hi again, also I dont understand when you say: (do not work over the 6-6-6-8 (8-8) sc between the 2 markers). Should i skip those 8sc between the marker and make my next dc in the sc after that or what does that mean? That would make a strange hole in the bonnet right? And also I find it confusing on how many rows i should be continuing on doing after the first part I dont understand what row you are talking about at what time. Is the ALL SIZES just one row of dc? And then the texture row

15.09.2019 - 16:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Thelma, as said previously, you will crochet the first 8 sts on the row (= between markers) only on first row, then only crochet over the remaining 64 sts inc 22 sts = 86 sts. From RS you will crochet this row with dc, then turn and work textured rows = 1 row with sc from WS, 1 row with dc from RS, and repeat these 2 rows. Happy crocheting!

16.09.2019 - 11:19

country flag Thelma wrote:

Hello, I find this pattern very confusing when you come to the ALL SIZES section. I dont understand where to increase? For the biggest size I now have 72 sc. Then you say for my size I should increase 22dc evenly. Then you say it should be 86dc at the end of that round? That doesnt add up. Do you mean I should increase evenly over the 64sc(72sc -8 sc between the markers) or do i increase evenly over the 8sc. Wouldnt that make a strange bump? Can you clarify this part for me

15.09.2019 - 16:45

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Thelma, on this row, you first crochet the first 8 stitches (inserting one marqueur at the beg of round + 1 marker after these 8 sts = 64 sts remain; then work the next 64 sts increasing 22 sts evenly = 86 sts, and continue working back and forth over these 86 sts, ie you won't crochet the 8 sts from the beg of the row anymore. Happy crocheting!

16.09.2019 - 11:16