DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

April

Knitted DROPS jacket with lace pattern, raglan and V-neck in ”Paris”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 154-7
DROPS design: Pattern no w-505
Yarn group C or A + A
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-104-116-128-138 cm / 34 5/8''-37¾''-41''-45¾''-50 3/8''-54¼''
Full length: 63-65-67-69-71-73 cm / 24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28''-28¾''

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
650-700-800-850-950-1050 g color no 19, light yellow

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - for rib.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 5 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 14.30$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from mid front and make a YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 3, 13, 23, 33 and 43 cm / 1 1/8", 5 1/8", 9", 13", 17"
SIZE M: 3, 13, 23, 33 and 43 cm / 1 1/8", 5 1/8", 9", 13", 17"
SIZE L: 4, 14, 24, 34 and 44 cm / 1½", 5½", 9½", 13 3/8", 17 1/4"
SIZE XL: 3, 13, 23, 33 and 43 cm / 1 1/8", 5 1/8", 9", 13", 17"
SIZE XXL: 4, 14, 23, 32 and 42 cm / 1½", 5½", 9", 12½", 16½"
SIZE XXXL: 3, 12, 22, 32 and 41 cm / 1 1/8", 4 3/4", 8 3/4", 12½", 16 1/8"

DECREASE TIP 1 (displacement): All dec are done from RS!
Dec at beg of A.3 as follows: K tog last st before A.3 and first st of A.3.
Dec at end of A.3 as follows: Slip last st of A.3 as if to K, K next st, psso.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc by making 1 YO before or after A.3. On next row P the YO twisted from WS.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to V-neck):
Dec inside 6 band sts + A.3. All dec are done from RS!
Dec before A.3 + 6 band sts as follows: K the first 2 sts in A.3 tog.
Dec after 6 band sts + A.3 as follows: Slip next to last st in A.3 as if to K, K 1, psso.

RAGLAN:
Dec 2 sts in every transition between body and sleeves. Dec from both RS and WS.
From RS:
Beg 2 sts before A.2 and work as follows: K 2 tog, A.2, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
From WS:
Beg 2 sts before A.2 and work as follows: P 2 twisted tog, A.2, P 2 tog.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 238-254-270-286-318-334 sts (includes 6 band sts in rib in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work next row as follows from RS: 2 st in garter st, * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 sts remain, finish with K 2 and 2 st in garter st.
Continue rib like this until 4 rows in rib have been worked. Remember BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and continue as follows from RS:
2 sts in garter st, K 2, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-24-24-24 sts, A.2 (= 6 sts), work the first 4 sts on 1st row in A.3. Work 14 sts in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st, work the last 4 sts on 1st row in A.3. Work in stockinette st over the next 12-16-20-16-24-28 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-4-7-6 sts evenly, work A.2, work in stockinette st over the next 12-16-20-16-24-28 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-4-7-6 sts evenly, work the first 4 sts on 1st row in A.3, work 14 sts in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st, work the last 4 sts in A.3, work A.1 over the next 32-32-32-48-48-48 sts, work A.2, work the first 4 sts in A.3, work 14 sts in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st, work the last 4 sts in A.3, work in stockinette st over the next 12-16-20-16-24-28 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-4-7-6 sts evenly, work A.2, work in stockinette st over the next 12-16-20-16-24-28 sts AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-4-5-4-7-6 sts evenly, work the first 4 sts in A.3, work 14 sts in stockinette st AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st, work the last 4 sts in A.3, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-24-24-24 sts, A.2, K 2, 2 sts in garter st = 218-234-246-266-286-306 sts.

Continue pattern as follows from WS: 2 sts in garter st, P 2, A.2, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-24-24-24 sts, A.3 (= 21 sts), 8-12-15-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= in the side), 8-12-15-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st, A.3, A.2, work A.1 over the next 32-32-32-48-48-48 sts, A.3, 8-12-15-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st, A.2 (= in the side), 8-12-15-12-17-22 sts in stockinette st, A.3, A.2, A.1 over the next 16-16-16-24-24-24 sts, P 2, 2 sts in garter st. Continue pattern like this.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
When piece measures 5 cm / 2'', dec 1 st on each side of every A.2 in the side (= 4 sts dec), dec by K 2 tog from RS, repeat dec every 2½ cm / 7/8'' 14 times in total. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8-8-8-9-9-10 cm / 3"-3"-3"-3½"-3½"-4'', A.3 is displaced so that there are fewer sts in A.1/A.2 towards mid front and mid back and more sts in stockinette st towards the sides:

FRONT PIECE:
Dec 1 st at beg of the first repetition of A.3, inc 1 st after the first repetition of A.3 – READ DECREASE TIP 1 (displacement) and INCREASE TIP.
Inc 1 st before the fourth repetition of A.3, dec 1 st at the end of the fourth repetition of A.3
Repeat displacement every 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm / ½"-½"-½"-3/8"-3/8"-3/8" 20-20-20-28-28-28 times in total.

BACK PIECE:
Inc 1 st before the second repetition of A.3, dec 1 st at the end of the second repetition of A.3, dec 1 st at beg of the third repetition of A.3, inc 1 st after the third repetition of A.3.
Repeat displacement every 2-2-2-1½-1½-1½ cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-½"-½"-½" 16-16-16-24-24-24 times in total. On front piece A.3 is now up to the 6 band sts, on back piece there are 6 sts (= A.2) between every A.3.
Continue dec in the sides, after all dec are done, 162-178-190-210-230-250 sts remain on needle. Continue pattern as follows (from RS): 2 sts in garter st, K 2, P 2, A.3, 14-18-21-26-31-36 sts in stockinette st, A.2, 10-14-17-22-27-32 sts in stockinette st, A.3, A.2, A.3, 10-14-17-22-27-32 sts in stockinette st, A.2, 14-18-21-26-31-36 sts in stockinette st, A.3, P 2, K 2, 2 sts in garter st. When piece measures 44-44-45-44-43-42 cm / 17 1/4"-17 1/4"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17"-16½", beg dec for V-neck on front piece, dec 1 st inside 27 sts towards mid front in each side – READ DECREASE TIP 2 V-neck, repeat dec every cm / 3/8'' 15-18-19-22-25-28 times in total, AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 44-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17 1/4''-17 3/4''-18''-18½''-19''-19 1/4'', bind off for armholes in each side as follows: bind off A.2 in each side (= 6 sts). There are now 68-76-82-92-102-112 sts on back piece and approx. 40-43-46-50-52-55 sts on each front piece (depending on no of sts dec for V-neck). Put piece aside and work the sleeves (dec for V-neck are continued on yoke).

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 44-44-48-48-52-52 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Paris. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. On next round work rib (= K 2/P 2). When 4 rounds rib have been worked, dec on next round 4-2-4-2-4-2 sts evenly in rib = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 2 sts mid under sleeve. Repeat inc every 4½-4½-4-3½-3-2½ cm / 1 3/4"-1 3/4"-1½"-1 1/4"-1 1/8"-7/8" 10-10-11-12-13-14 times in total = 60-62-66-70-74-78 sts. When piece measures 52-51-51-50-50-49 cm / 20½"-20"-20"-19 3/4"-19 3/4"-19 1/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap and wider shoulders), bind off 6 sts mid under sleeve = 54-56-60-64-68-72 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = approx. 256-274-294-320-342-366 sts. Insert 1 marker in all transitions between sleeves and body (= 4 markers). Work pattern as before, work in addition A.2 in every transition between body and sleeves (beg 3 sts before marker). AT THE SAME TIME on next row from RS beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 15-16-17-17-17-17 more times and then every row (i.e. both from RS and WS) 4-4-5-7-9-11 times in total. NOTE! Work sts that do not fit A.3 in stockinette st when dec. After all dec for raglan and V-neck, approx. 68-74-76-82-88-94 sts remain on needle. Work 1 row in stockinette st from RS AT THE SAME TIME dec evenly to 22-24-26-28-30-32 sts between the 2 markers on back piece (i.e. dec approx. 6-10-10-14-18-22 sts between the 2 markers on back piece).
Work the first 6 sts before slipping them on a stitch holder, bind off sts until 6 sts remain at the end of row. Work the 6 sts as before.

BAND + NECK EDGE:
Continue with 2 sts in garter st, K 2, P 2 over right band, cast in addition on 1 new st at the end of row in towards garment (= edge st for assembly). Work until neck edge measures approx. 15-17-19-21-23-25 cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4"-9"-9 3/4" from where sts were bind off for neck (place neck edge towards the garment mid back, lightly pull it and make sure that it fits the measurements), then bind off. Repeat along left band. Sew seam mid back inside bind-off edge (seam should be in towards WS on garment). Sew neck edge to neckline inside 1 edge st.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves tog. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
symbols = K 4 tog
symbols = K 4 twisted tog
diagram
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (74)

country flag Marja Stoelwinder wrote:

Ik begrijp het verschuiven niet bedoelen ze dat je 1ste tot 4 ste van A3 steeds moet herhalen? VOORPAND: Minder 1 st aan het begin van de eerste herhaling van A.3, meerder 1 st na de eerste herhaling van A.3 – LEES TIP VOOR HET MINDEREN 1 (verschuiven) en TIP VOOR HET MEERDEREN. Meerder 1 st voor de vierde herhaling van A.3, minder 1 st aan het einde van de vierde herhaling van A.3. Herhaal dit verschuiven elke 1½-1½-1½-1-1-1 cm 20-20-20-28-28-28 keer in totaal.

03.03.2023 - 08:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Marja,

A.3 zelf blijft in tact, maar je meerdert/mindert aan weerszijden. Als je dit doet komen er steeds minder steken aan de ene kant van A.3 en steeds meer steken aan de andere kant van A.3, waardoor het effect ontstaat dat het patroon schuin over het werk loopt.

08.03.2023 - 20:00

country flag Ninni Langeland wrote:

Takk for svar. Var det samme oppsettet som jeg fikk sist og det som står i møstere og ikke går opp med maskene mine. Jeg har nå rekker opp begge ermene og fortykket jeg har strikket. Dette mønsteret må det være feil med, har snakket med andre og som ikke får det til 🥺 Anbefaler å prøvestrikke å se om det går. Mvh Ninni 😀

22.03.2022 - 14:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ninni. Usikker på hvorfor det blir feil hos deg. Har både telt maskene slik de er forklart i oppskriften og teststrikket begynnelsen, maskeantallet stemmer hos meg. Teller du kastene som strikkes i A.1 og A.2 som egen maske? (skal ikke telles som egen maske). Har du felt de 20 maskene som forklart i oppskriften? Når du har 254 masker på pinnen og skal strikke 1. pinne etter vrangbord, ta da å sette maskemarkører mellom hver "operasjon". Slik: 2 masker rille, maskemarkør, 2 rett, maskemarkør, A.1 over 16 masker, maskemarkør, A.2, maskemarkør osv. Da får du en bedre oversikt. mvh DROPS Design

28.03.2022 - 10:23

country flag Ninni Langeland wrote:

Hei! Takk for svar. Har du prøvd å strikke mønsteret over de 254 maskene og hatt nok masker til hele mønsteret? Når jeg kommer til de siste 16 makene er de bare 4 masker igjen, hvis jeg skal strikke som det står videre: 6 +2+2. Må være noe feil her?? Mvh Ninni😀

13.03.2022 - 10:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ninni. Litt usikker på hvor det blir feil hos deg, og ettersom vi ikke kan skrive en lang forklaring under, blir det kun en tall forklaring. Du har 254 masker på pinnen og på neste pinne felles det 20 masker. Det strikkes slik: 2 m rille + 2 r + A.1 (16 m) + A.2(6 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 14 m (-1 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 16 m (-4 m) + A.2 (6 m) + 16 m (-4 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 14 m (-1 m) + A.3 (4 m) + A.1 (32 m) + A.2 (6 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 14 m (-1 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 16 m (-4 m) + A.2 (6 m) + 16 m (-4 m) + A.3 (4 m) + 14 m (-1 m) + A.3 (4 m) + A.1 (16 m) + A.2 (6 m) + 2 m rett + 2 m rille = 234 m. mvh DROPS Design

21.03.2022 - 11:30

country flag Ninni Langeland wrote:

Hei! Jeg strikker str M og har 254 masker. Mvh Ninni 😀

08.03.2022 - 09:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Ninni. Du stickar såhär i storlek M: 2+2+16+6+4+(14-1)+4+(16-4)+6+(16-4)+4+(14-1)+4+32+6+4+(14-1)+4+(16-4)+6+(16-4)+4+(14-1)+4+16+6+2+2=234 m.

11.03.2022 - 14:27

country flag Ninni Langeland wrote:

Får ikke første omgang med pinne nr 5 til å gå opp. Har ikke nok masker?? Er det noe feil her i mønsteret? Mvh Ninni

03.03.2022 - 23:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ninni. Hvilken str. strikker du? Hvor mange masker har du? mvh DROPS Design

07.03.2022 - 14:23

country flag Claudia wrote:

When the patterns says: "Cast on 238-254-270-286-318-334 sts (includes 6 band sts in rib in each side towards mid front)" - does that mean I cast on 238 stitches + 6 stitches each center front *for a total of 250 cast-on stitches*? Or are those 12 rib stitches included in the 238 cast-on stitches? I've read through the pattern and find all other instructions easy; I just don't want to cast on 238 stitches only to find out I should have cast on 250. Thank you!

29.05.2021 - 16:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Claudia, "Includes" mean that those 12 stitches are already counted in. So, for the smallest size, you only need to cast on the 238 stitches. Happy Crafting!

29.05.2021 - 16:11

country flag Ruth wrote:

Have literally spent hours trying to “map” out pattern instructions on paper. Sadly, I cannot figure pattern out. I’ve abandoned my efforts & have chosen another sweater pattern. Drops Designs are beautiful, however, not sure I’ll try again after failing with my first attempt at understanding pattern instructions. Hope others will be more successful.

24.10.2020 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

26.10.2020 - 13:18

country flag Ruth wrote:

CO254 & worked RS row accurately. However, I had 247 sts at end after 20 dec sts & 13 yos (increased 13sts). Then when I worked WS row, I had extra 13 sts without pattern to follow. Try as I might, I cannot figure out how to resolve. Please guide me so I can continue.

15.10.2020 - 15:34

Ruth answered:

Please disregard my most recent question. I just realized I was repeating row 1 diagrams instead of moving to row two for WS! Thanks!

15.10.2020 - 15:49

country flag Ruth wrote:

Directions: “Work 14 sets in stockinette st, AT THE SAME TIME dec1 st, work the last 4 sets on 1st row in A.3.” At what point is dec to be done?

09.10.2020 - 03:21

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, you have to work the next 14 sts in stocking st decreasing 1 st evenly, this means there will be 13 sts left, let's say you work so for example: knit 6, knit 2 tog, knit 6 (= you worked the next 14 sts but decrased 1 = 13 sts remain). Happy knitting!

09.10.2020 - 08:04

country flag Ruth wrote:

As begin, instruction indicate “until 4 sets remain, finish with K2 and 2 st in garter st.” Am I to knit 4? Please help me understand so I get started correctly with this beautiful sweater. Many thanks

04.10.2020 - 03:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ruth, sure you will finish with K4 from RS but remember that 2 of these will be 2 sts in stocking st (= K2) and 2 of them garter st (= the last 2 sts), this means from WS you will work the 2 sts in garter stitch K but the K2 from RS will be worked P2 from WS. Happy knitting!

05.10.2020 - 10:26