DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Evangeline

Knitted DROPS vest in garter st worked in a circle with lace pattern in "Paris". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 154-35
DROPS design: Pattern no w-508
Yarn group C or A+A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL - XXXL

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
500-600-700-750 g color no 38, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 5 mm / US 8 (60 cm / 24'') - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 11.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 (= 9 sts). The diagram shows all rows in pattern seen from RS.

MEASURING TIP:
All length measurements are done along the shorter side.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS. Inc inside first st in garter st towards the side and work the inc sts in garter st. Inc by making 1 YO, on next row K YO twisted (i.e. work in back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

PICK UP TIP:
Right edge piece:
* Pick up 1 st in outer loop of next st/row on back piece at the end of row from RS with left needle, slip the new st on to right needle and pass the st last worked over the new st, work 1 ridge *, repeat from *-* on every row from RS (i.e. edge piece is now worked tog with back piece).
NOTE: To make the pattern fit on back piece there is 1 more ridge on right edge piece than on left edge piece.
Left edge piece:
Pick up as on right but beg at beg of every row from RS.
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VEST:
The vest is worked in 3 parts: 1 back piece (A) + 2 edge pieces (B) are worked from mid back of back and end mid back of neck. These are worked tog with back piece and then sewn tog into a ring - see fig.1.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 29-33-39-47 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Insert 1 marker after 15-17-20-24 sts. Fasten right and left edge piece tog with back piece on each side of marker. Work in GARTER ST – see explanation above AT THE SAME TIME cast on 2 sts in each side of piece at the end of the next two rows, repeat inc in each side 2 more times, then cast on 1 st in each side of piece at the end of the next two rows, repeat inc 9 more times = 61-65-71-79 sts on needle. Then work as follows on next row from RS: 5-7-3-7 sts in garter st, A.1 (= 9 sts), * 5 sts in stockinette st, A.1 *, repeat from *-* 3-3-4-4 times in total, finish with 5-7-3-7 sts in garter st. Continue pattern vertically. When piece measures 14-13-13-12 cm/5½"-5"-5"-4 3/4" and 15-14-14-13 cm / 6"-5½"-5½"-5", inc 1 st in each side = 65-69-75-83 sts on needle (= on 1st or 4th row in A.1) – work the inc sts in garter st. When piece measures 16-15-15-14 cm / 6 1/4"-6"-6"-5½", inc 1 st for sleeve in each side – READ INCREASE TIP! Repeat inc every 2 rows a total of 6 times. When all inc are done, there are 77-81-87-95 sts on needle (= on 1st or 4th row in A.1). When piece measures 30-30-31-31 cm / 11 3/4"-11 3/4"-12 1/4"-12 1/" - adjust after 1 repetition of A.1 vertically - bind off the middle 21-23-25-27 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 27-28-30-33 sts remain on each shoulder. Continue with pattern over the remaining sts. Bind off when piece measures 32-32-33-33 cm / 12½"-12½"-13"-13", adjust after 1 repetition vertically.

RIGHT EDGE PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 52-56-60-64 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Paris. Cast-on edge is marked with E on chart. Work in garter st AT THE SAME TIME work edge piece tog with back piece from marker – SEE PICK UP TIP - AT THE SAME TIME work short rows, beg from RS as follows: * Work 2 rows over all sts, then work 2 rows over the first 34-36-40-42 sts, then 2 rows over the first 17-18-20-21 sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 18-19-21-23 cm / 7"-7½"-8 1/4"-9" at the shortest – READ MEASURING TIP.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING! Continue the pick up AT THE SAME TIME work as follows on next row from RS: 7 sts in garter st (= band), A.1 4-5-5-6 times in total, finish with 9-4-8-3 sts in garter st AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 19-20-22-24 cm / 7½"-8"-8 3/4"-9½", work as follows from RS: * 2 rows over the first 25-34-34-43 sts (7 sts in garter st, A.1 2-3-3-4 times in total), 2 rows over the first 34-43-43-52 sts (7 sts in garter st, A.1 3-4-4-5 times in total), 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until piece measures 36-37-39-41 cm / 14 1/4"-14½"-15 1/4"-16" - Remember MEASURING TIP.
The short rows are done. Pick up is finished when sts have been picked up until 1st inc st for sleeve on back piece. Continue with pattern.

When pick up is done, inc for sleeve in the side as on back piece (= 6 sts inc) = 58-62-66-70 sts on needle (= on 1st or 4th row in A.1). Then work pattern and in garter st over all sts. When piece measures 54-56-59-62 cm / 21 1/4"-22"-23 1/4"-24½", bind off the outermost 27-28-30-33 sts in the left side for shoulder - adjust after 1 repetition of A.1 vertically = 31-34-36-37 sts remain for shawl collar. Work the rest of row. Now measure piece from here. Now continue piece in garter st. Work as follows from RS: * 2 rows over the first 23-26-28-29 sts, 2 rows over all sts *, repeat from *-* until finished measurements. Bind off when piece measures 7-8-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3"-3½" (measured on the shortest side).

LEFT EDGE PIECE:
Cast on and work as right but reversed.

ASSEMBLY:
- See chart. Sew in outer loops of edge sts, and make sure to avoid a tight edge. Sew the edge pieces tog in bottom edge (E to E) and in neck (D to D). Fasten edge piece to back piece by sewing shoulder seams (C) and edge piece up to back piece (G) in the back of neck.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 02.05.2014
Under PICK UP TIP: Right edge piece: * Pick up 1 st in outer loop of next st/row on back piece at the end of row from RS with left needle, slip the new st on to right needle and pass the st last worked over the new st, work 1 ridge *, repeat from *-* ...
+ under RIGHT EDGE PIECE: … Remember MEASURING TIP. The short rows are done. Pick up is finished when sts have been picked up until 1st inc st for sleeve on back piece. Continue with pattern. When pick up is done, inc for sleeve in the side as on back piece (= 6 sts inc) =…..

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = back piece
symbols = edge piece
symbols = shoulder
symbols = neck edge mid back
symbols = mid back, bottom
symbols = back
symbols = neckline
symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1,
psso
symbols = K 2 tog
diagram
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (56)

country flag Chantal Maillard wrote:

Bonjour, où trouver la vidéo car je ne comprends pas toutes les explications. Notamment, pour tricoter le devant droit en relevant les mailles du dos ? Merci de m'éclairer.

16.03.2024 - 16:15

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Maillard, il n'existe pas de vidéo spécifique à cette technique, suivez attentivement les indications sous ASTUCE POUR RELEVER LES MAILLES :, autrement dit, en fin de rang sur l'endroit, relevez 1 maille au bord du dos, mettez cette maille sur l'aiguille droite et passez la dernière maille tricotée par-dessus la maille relevée (ainsi on n'augmente pas de mailles). Bon tricot!

18.03.2024 - 08:53

country flag Grit wrote:

Ich bin jetzt am Anfang des rechten Randteils, beim Stricken der verkürzten Reihen ist auf dem Foto ein Muster (Löcher) erkennbar, was bei mir nicht entsteht, wenn ich das Anleitungsvideo "Verkürzte Reihen kraus rechts" benutze. Gibt es da einen Trick? Vielen Dank

16.02.2023 - 17:00

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Grit, diese Löcher entstehen, wenn man diese Technik für verkürzten Reihen strickt, je mehr die erste Masche festgezogen wird, desto weniger wird das Loch. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

17.02.2023 - 11:30

country flag Ruth wrote:

Hola! Tengo una pregunta la verdad no se como empezar a tejer, el patrón dice que tengo que montar puntos para la espalda pero que también tengo que unir con las delanteras izquierda y derecha ahi es donde no entiendo tengo que tener ya tejidas las delanteras para poder tejer la espalda la verdad estoy muy perdida no se como empezar de antemano agradezco su ayuda saludos.

30.06.2022 - 19:40

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Ruth, primero trabajas la espalda. Cuando terminas la espalda, montas puntos para el delantero. Empiezas a trabajar el delantero en punto musgo y al mismo tiempo, lo unes a la parte de la espalda. Cuando trabajas por el lado derecho, al final de la fila, levanta 1 punto en el borde de la espalda, pasar el punto levantado a la aguja derecha y montar el último punto del delantero sobre el punto levantado de la espalda. Es decir, unimos el delantero y la espalda a la vez que tejemos el delantero. También puedes unir según el siguiente vídeo, trabajando 2pjd en vez de disminución simple: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?id=482&lang=es.

04.07.2022 - 19:37

country flag Tony And Linda Simmonds wrote:

I am thinking about making this but would like to use a finer yarn that would normally use 3.25mm needles. What size difference would I need to make i.e would I go up 1 or 2 sizes? Also, I would like to add sleeves. Do you think this is possible and how would you suggest please. Thank you

11.02.2022 - 22:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tony and Linda, you would need to check the gauge by working one with your thread and needles, to compare it to the one in the pattern and then calculate which would be the proportional size taking into account the gauge. We don't make personalized patterns. Happy knitting!

13.02.2022 - 19:56

country flag Kopanyicza Gyöngyi wrote:

Hogyan kell rövidített sorokat kötni? Mi lesz a többi szemmel? Üdv: Gyöngyi

31.01.2022 - 16:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hi, if you could write your question in English, we will try to answer :)

22.04.2022 - 11:46

country flag Ragnhild Jordet wrote:

Hva menes med garngruppe A+A? På bildet er angitt farge nr 38, korall i foreslått garntype (bomull), mens i fargekartet er farge nr 38 kalt bringebær; er dette samme farge? Hvordan holder fasongen seg i vask, ved bruk av foreslått bomullsgarn?

07.03.2021 - 09:43

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ragnhild, Under garngruppen er Parisgarnet fra gruppe C (som beskriver tykkelsen). Man kan erstatte et garn fra gruppe C med et annet garn fra samme gruppa, eller ved å bruke et garn fra Gruppe A og strikke med dobbelt garn (A+A). Farge 38 er Bringebær og er den samme fargen. Det er et høykvalitetsgarn som holder bra på fasongen. God fornøyelse!

08.03.2021 - 07:20

country flag Åse Søviknes wrote:

Høyre forstykke str L Riller bakre arm (rygg) blir 7m + (1+6 økte masker) = 14 m Riller forstykke arm blir 4 m + (6 m økte masker) = 10 m Hva har jeg misforstått ?

19.12.2019 - 22:27

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Åse, du øger lige mange masker i riller på rygstykket som på forstykket. God fornøjelse!

10.02.2020 - 15:26

country flag Gunilla Lindblad wrote:

På sid 3 i mönstret står det " upprepa tills ar 1:a m som är ökt till armb. Eftersom jag inte förstod detta gick jag in på den engelska översättningen och där stod det kort och gott: repeat until piece measures 36 cm, Ni kanske bör ändra i den svenska varianten?

09.07.2019 - 13:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hej. Tack för info, det har nu korrigerats på den svenska översättningen. Mvh DROPS Design

10.07.2019 - 13:34

country flag Carol wrote:

I am so confused. On the side (right or left) when one row is worked across in pattern with eg 7 sts, A1 - 4 times, 9 sts: then begin two rows, 25 sts ( A1 - 2 times in total) : two rows 34 sts (A1 - 3 times in total). Now two rows over all. The result over these last two rows do not line up with the A1 pattern. The stitches over the 3rd A1 are 2 rows behind pattern repeat. What is the secret to complete.

20.05.2019 - 18:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, you work A.1 on all this row, let's say on row 1 of the short rows you work row 1 in the first 2-3-3-4 A.1, you will work row 2 of A.1 over these 2-3-3-4 repeats on next row, then work row 3 in A.1 over the 2-3-3-4 first A.1, then row 1 over the next repeat (= 3-4-4-6 repeats on this row), turn and work row 2 over 1 repeat, row 4 over the next 2-3-3-4 repeats, on next row over all sts, work row 5 over the first 2-3-3-4 repeats, row 3 over next repeat and row 1 over the remaining repeat. ie you have to continue each repeat following the previous row worked on this repeat, not same row for all repeats so that the pattern will be the same on all repeats. Happy knitting!

21.05.2019 - 09:44

country flag Carol wrote:

I am starting the left side piece and am about to k7 sts (band) then continues with A1(4-5-5-6) times, finish with 9-4-8-3 sts. My question is, are there no sts worked between each A1?

09.05.2019 - 18:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Carol, left front piece will be worked reversed/mirored to the right front piece, ie short rows will start from WS, then when working A.1 you will work from RS: 9-4-8-3 sts in garter st, repeat A.1 a total of 4-5-5-6 times and finish with 7 sts in garter st for front band. Then short rows will also be worked the same way but starting from WS (instead of from RS). Happy knitting!

10.05.2019 - 09:08