DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Brise d'Ete

Knitted DROPS jacket in English rib with two colors in ”Brushed Alpaca Silk ” or ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 152-12
DROPS design: Pattern no as-017
Yarn group C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.
Materials:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-125-125-150 g color no 14, light grayish green
100-100-100-125-125-150 g color no 01, off white
Or: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 09, light blue
100-100-100-150-150-150 g color no 06, off white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm /US 10 - or size needed to get 11 sts x 26 rows in English rib = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
DROPS Brushed Alpaca Silk
77% Alpaca, 23% Silk
from 3.95 $ /25g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.60$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

ENGLISH RIB ST:
When counting the sts, the YOs are not counted as sts.

KNITTING TIP 1:
To make an English rib in two colors work back and forth on a circular needle as follows: Work 1st row as explained below, turn piece and then beg color change as follows: Work 2nd row as explained below with color 1 and then move all sts on circular needle to the other end so that next row can be worked with color 2 from the same side of piece - then turn piece and work the next 2 rows as the first 2 – i.e. work 1 row with each color and work 2 rows in total from the same side before turning piece and working back.

KNITTING TIP 2:
If you are in doubt, see what color the previous row was worked with on the color of edge st.

ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS:
ROW 1 (= WS): Worked with color 01, off white
* 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P. Turn piece.

ROW 2 (= RS): Worked with color 01, off white
* K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st.
Move sts back on circular needle to work from same side one more time and switch color (read KNITTING TIP 1 and 2).

ROW 3 (= RS): Work with color 14, light grayish green
* 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, P tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P. Turn piece.

ROW 4 (= WS): Worked with color 01, off white
* P tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, P tog YO and slipped st.
Move sts back on circular needle to work from same side one more time and switch color.

ROW 5 (= WS): Work with color 14, light grayish green
* 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P. Turn piece.

Repeat rows 2-5.

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeve):
Inc 1 st at beg of row after 1 edge st and 1 st before 1 edge st at end of row.
Inc 1 st by making a YO, on next row work YO twisted i.e. work in back loop of st instead front. NOTE: Work the inc sts in English rib.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Dec from RS in English rib as follows:
Dec as follows before marker: Work in English rib until 3 sts remain before st with marker (Read ENGLISH RIB ST above), slip 1 st as if to K, K the next 2 sts tog and then pass 1 slipped st over. 2 sts dec.
Dec as follows after marker: Work in English rib until marker, K 3 tog. 2 sts dec.

DECREASE TIP 2:
Dec 2 sts as follows: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso
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JACKET:
First worked back and forth in parts before slipping them on same needle and then work back and forth until finished measurements.

BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle - see KNITTING TIP 1.
Loosely cast on 96-99-102-105-108-111 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with off white. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st = 65-67-69-71-73-75 sts. Work ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS – see explanation above – with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' (adjust so that next row is 2nd-2nd-2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd row in English rib). REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Now dec 1 edge st in each side on next row as follows: Dec 1 edge st at beg of next row by working the first 2 sts K twisted tog, work as before until 2 sts remain, K the last 2 tog = 63-65-67-69-71-73 sts. Work 1 more row (= 3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th-3rd row in English rib). Put the piece aside and work both front pieces.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Loosely cast on 93-96-99-102-105-108 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with off white. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with K 1 and 1 edge st in garter st (work edge st in garter st until finished measurements) = 63-65-67-69-71-73 sts. Work ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece until piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'' (adjust so that next row is 2nd-2nd-2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd row in English rib). On next row dec edge st in garter st in right side of piece by working the last 2 sts K tog = 62-64-66-68-70-72 sts remain on row. Work 1 more row (= 3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th-3rd row in English rib). Put piece aside.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed, i.e. when 1 edge st is dec, work the first 2 sts twisted tog.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 32-32-34-34-35-35 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with off white. Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * K 1, 2 sts in next st *, repeat from *-* until 1-1-3-3-2-2 sts remain, finish with K 0-0-2-2-1-1 and 1 edge st in garter st = 47-47-49-49-51-51 sts. Then work in ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece. When piece measures 8 cm / 3 1/8'', inc 1 st in each side inside 1 edge st - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc in each side of piece every 5-4-4-3-2½-2½ cm / 2"-1½"-1½"-1 1/8"-7/8"-7/8" 4-6-6-8-8-10 more times (= 5-7-7-9-9-11 times in total) = 57-61-63-67-69-73 sts. Work English rib with 1 edge st in garter st in each side of piece until piece measures 35-35-34-34-33-33 cm / 13 3/4"-13 3/4"-13 3/8"-13 3/8"-13"-13" (adjust so that next row is 2nd-2nd-2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd row in English rib). Dec 1 edge st in each side of piece as follows: Work the first 2 sts K twisted tog, work as before until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog = 55-59-61-65-67-71 sts. Then work 1 more row (= 3rd-3rd-3rd-4th-4th-3rd row in English rib) AT THE SAME TIME insert 1 marker in each side of piece inside 5 sts. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves between front and back piece in each side on same circular needle with off white outwards (= RS) = 297-311-321-335-345-359 sts on row. Now insert 1 marker in the transitions between back piece and sleeves in each side (= 6 markers in total incl markers on sleeves). Next row = 4th-4th-4th-5th-5th-4th row in English rib (= WS).
Work 2-3-3-1-1-3 rows in English rib before dec for raglan on sleeves and back piece (NOTE: Do not dec on front piece) on next row (= 2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-3rd row in English rib). Work as follows from RS: Work 1 edge st in garter st, 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts in English rib as before (YOs are not counted as sts – READ ENGLISH RIB ST), work the first 5 sts in English rib from sleeve as before, dec 2 sts after marker – see DECREASE TIP 1 above, continue with English rib until 3 sts remain before next marker on sleeve, dec 2 sts before marker – see DECREASE TIP 1 above, work the last 5 sts from sleeve as before, marker, then dec 2 sts on back piece after marker, work until 3 sts remain before marker in other side of back piece, dec 2 sts before marker, work the first 5 sts on sleeve as before, dec 2 sts after marker, continue in English rib until 3 sts remain before next marker on sleeve, dec 2 sts before marker, work the last 5 sts from sleeve as before, then work the last 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts in English rib and 1 edge st in garter st as before = 12 sts dec.
Then dec differently on sleeves and back piece.
Sleeve: Repeat dec every 4th row 10-10-11-12-13-13 more times (i.e. dec every 2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-3rd row in English rib) = 11-15-13-13-11-15 sts remain on each sleeve.
Back piece: Repeat dec on back piece every 8th row 0-0-0-1-2-2 times, then every 4th row 10-10-11-10-9-9 times (i.e. dec every 2nd-3rd-3rd-2nd-2nd-3rd row in English rib) = 19-21-19-21-23-25 sts remain on back piece.
= 165-179-177-183-185-199 sts on needle.
Then on next row (= RS in S-XL-XXL, WS in M-L-XXXL) work as follows: Work 1 edge st in garter st, English rib as before over the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts (= front piece), then work rib in two colors (i.e. work K over K sts in English rib in the same color as English rib sts and P over P sts in English rib in same color as English rib) over the next 41-51-45-47-45-55 sts (i.e. sleeves and back piece). NOTE: I.e. YO and slipped st K tog, and work P sts P, AT THE SAME TIME dec 4-14-4-6-2-12 sts evenly i.e. dec 2 sts 2-7-2-3-1-6 times – see DECREASE TIP 2, work English rib as before over the last 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts and 1 edge st in garter st (= front piece) = 161-165-173-177-183-187 sts. Work 1 edge st in garter st, English rib as before over the next 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts (= front piece), then work K over K and P over P over the next 37-37-41-41-43-43 sts, English rib as before over the last 61-63-65-67-69-71 sts and 1 edge st in garter st (= front piece).
bind off with light grayish green with K over K and P over P - NOTE: bind off YOs as sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew side and underarm seams in one inside 1 edge st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (95)

country flag Regina wrote:

Ich würde mich gerne an der Jacke versuchen und scheitere bereits zu Beginn. Es ist angegeben: ZWEIFARBIGES VOLLPATENT (ungerade M-Zahl) und anschlagen müsste ich bei meiner Größe 96 M.

28.08.2022 - 23:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Regine, für das Rückenteil schlagen Sie 96 Maschen an, aber bei der 1. Reihe nehmen Sie Maschen ab (* 1 M re, 2 M re zusammenstricken *, von *-* wdh bis noch 2 M übrig sind, ) so daß 65 Maschen übrig sind, so ist die Mascheanzahl ungerade. Viel Spaß beims tricken!

29.08.2022 - 09:05

country flag Brigitte wrote:

Ich möchte im Halbpatent Stricken geht das, wenn ja wie?

28.06.2022 - 20:16

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Brigitte, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, am besten stricken Sie eine Maschenprobe, so wissen Sie mehr, dann kann Ihnen gerne Ihr DROPS Laden oder ein Strick-Forum damit helfen. Danke im voraus für Ihr Verständnis. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

29.06.2022 - 09:25

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjour. Je voudrais savoir si au lieu de faire des côtes bicolores je pouvais faire les côtés d'une seule couleur et la méthode sera la même où ce sera comme les côtes anglaises normales. Merci pour votre réponse. Cordialement

20.03.2021 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Sylvie, si vous tricotez avec une seule couleur, alors les côtes anglaises seront à tricoter en suivant cette méthode. Bon tricot!

22.03.2021 - 07:31

country flag Susanna wrote:

Is this sweater knitted with 1 or 2 threads as it uses 2 different colors? Can it be knitted with only 1 color?

21.02.2021 - 21:09

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Susanna, the seater is knitted with two different color, in a two colored englis rib, both color held single (not double). It can be knitted with one color, but the recult will loose the enhanced ribbest efefxt the modeel on the picture has. Happy Knitting!

21.02.2021 - 21:42

country flag Rita wrote:

Hallo! Ich verstehe die Anleitung für das Rechte Vorderteil überhaupt nicht. Da steht, daß die aufgenommenen Maschen z.B. 93, stetig abgenommen werden sollen (1 M re und 2 M re zusammenstricken), bis nur noch 2 Maschen übrig sind, obwohl in der nächsten Reihe dann steht, daß noch 63 M. übrigbleiben sollten. Es klingt unlogisch. Ich freue mich über die Auflösung des Rätsels! Lieben Gruß

07.07.2020 - 00:11

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Rita, damit die Anschlagskante elastisch genug wird, schlägt man mehr Maschen als man braucht, bzw 93 M und so stricken: 1 M re (Krausrippe), (1 M re, 2 M re zs) x 30 Mal wiederholen (= über die nächsten 90 Maschen), 2 Maschen bleiben, die stricken Sie: 1 M re, 1 M re (krausrippe). So haben Sie: 1 + (3x30 abgenomen zu 2 x 30) + 2 = 1+ (90 => 60) + 2 = 93 Maschen abgenommen zu 63 Maschen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.07.2020 - 10:12

country flag Francesca wrote:

Buongiorno,\r\nNon capisco sul dietro alla fina dei 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm a costa inglese. Nel ferro successivo quando dite “lavorare come prima” intendete 1 m dir, 2 m insieme a dir o ferro 2 coste inglesi. Con le coste inglesi, considerando i gettati, dopo le riduzioni mi rimarrebbero più di 63-65-67-69-71-73 m.\r\nGrazie

22.01.2020 - 13:35

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Francesca. Per ferro successivo si intende il ferro 2 delle coste inglesi (per le taglie S - M - L - XXXL), il ferro 3 delle coste inglesi (per le taglie XL - XXL ). Durante questo ferro vengono diminuite 2 maglie, una all'inizio e una alla fine del ferro. Verifichi che il numero delle maglie sia corretto prima delle diminuzioni. Le maglie gettate non vanno contante come maglie. Buon lavoro!

22.01.2020 - 15:24

country flag Carla wrote:

Hallo, heel graag zou ik willen hoe ik 1 steek moet meerderen en minderen. bij tips v h minderen mouw begrijp ik de instr niet! verder staan er alleen tips vh minderen van 2 st maar er wordt in de beschr ook 1 st minderen gevraagd. kunt u mij aub helpen? heb diverse tutorials bekeken maar helaas.

28.05.2019 - 22:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Carla,

Bij 'TIPS VOOR HET MEERDEREN (voor de mouw)' staat aangegeven hoe je 1 steek meerdert aan elke kant (voor en na de kantsteek). Op een gegeven moment moet je inderdaad ook minderen bij de mouw, maar hoe je dit doet staat bij de beschrijving van de mous: namelijk 2 steken gedraaid samenbreien.

29.05.2019 - 10:42

Christin wrote:

Hi there! I have been reading through your pattern but I am not sure if I understand it correctly. The back piece requires 99sts (for size M) to be cast on, then I knit in decrease (as it asks to K1, K2tog) until I have 67sts left on my needles, and after that I continue in English Rib. Do I understand the pattern correctly? Thank you and Merry Christmas!

10.12.2018 - 10:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Christin, you are right, you cast on more stitches than you need for the English rib, to avoid casting on row being too tight. Merry Christmas and happy knitting!

10.12.2018 - 11:12

country flag Gudrun wrote:

Die Frage wurde in 2014 zwar schon mal gestellt, die Antwort hat mir nicht weitergeholfen. Wie stricke ich das Muster mit nur einer Farbe? Danke vorab!

01.09.2018 - 08:25

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gudrun, hier werden dieses Muster mit nur 1 Farbe erklärt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

04.09.2018 - 11:28

Trisha wrote:

HELP! Just can’t master the English rib -the correct yarn has been purchased, love the look of the finished garment but in despair. Can you recommend an alternative stitch that is within my capabilities. I’ve tried Brioche but cannot grasp this either even though I am a confident knitter and have tried many times using the videos on line. I am almost at the point of giving up!

27.02.2018 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Trisha, English Rib and Brioche is basically the same thing. Do not dispair, please try to see and follow the tutorial videos on our site heret. And do not forget that you can always ask for personal help in teh store you bought your DROPS yarn from. Happy Knitting!

27.02.2018 - 09:04