DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

Maiden Shield

Knitted DROPS jacket with textured pattern, wide sleeves and deep raglan in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS Extra 0-958
DROPS design: Pattern no li-033
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL – XXXL
Finished measures:
Around bust: 116-124-132-142-152-164 cm / 46”-49”-52”-56”-60”-64½”
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’

Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
750-800-850-950-1050-1150 g color no 9010, light gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16’’ and 32’’) SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 25 rows pattern (A.1 + A.2/A.3 - measured horizontally) = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
And 19 sts x 25 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - for edges in garter st.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 522: 6 pieces for all sizes

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 49.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on circular needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size. The diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

BUTTONHOLES:
Dec for buttonholes on right band. 1 buttonhole = K tog second and third st from edge and make 1 YO.
Dec for buttonholes when piece measures (measured in the side where piece is shortest):
SIZE S: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm / 3/8”,4”,7½”,11”,14½” and 18”.
SIZE M: 2, 11, 20, 29, 38 and 47 cm / 34”,4 3/8”,8”,11 3/8”,15” and 18½”
SIZE L: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm / 1 1/8”,4¾”,8¼”,11¾”,15¼” and 18”.
SIZE XL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm / 1 1/8”,4¾”,8¼”,11¾”,15¼” and 18”.
SIZE XXL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm / 1 1/8”,4¾”,8¼”,11¾”,15¼” and 18”.
SIZE XXL: 3, 12, 21, 30, 39 and 48 cm / 1 1/8”,4¾”,8¼”,11¾”,15¼” and 18”.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS!
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row P YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Dec for raglan on each side of A.1 in every transition between sleeves and body.
FROM RS:
Dec as follows before A.1: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
FROM WS:
Dec as follows before A.1: P 2 twisted tog.
Dec as follows after A.1: P 2 tog.
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BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle from mid front.
Cast on 230-246-262-282-302-326 sts (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima.
K 4 rows (= 2 ridges in garter st).
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 and insert 2 markers 60-64-68-73-78-84 sts in from each side (= 110-118-126-136-146-158 sts between markers on back piece).
Work next row as follows from RS:
5 band sts in garter st, work diagram A.3 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), 14-22-30-12-22-34 sts in stockinette st (marker in the side is in the mid of these sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.3 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), work 14-22-30-12-22-34 sts in stockinette st (marker in the side is in the mid of these sts) A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), and finish with 5 band sts in garter st.
Continue pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE and remember to make BUTTONHOLES on right band - see explanation above.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!

INC IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8’’-2 3/8’’-2 3/8’’-2¾’’-2¾’’-2¾’’, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3 1/8”-3½”-3½”-3½”, 2 more times (= 3 times in total) = 242-258-274-294-314-338 sts.

DEC AND INC IN PATTERN FRONT AND BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾’’-2¾’’-2¾’’-3 1/8’’- 3 1/8’’- 3 1/8’’ – make sure that next row is with inc and dec in A.2/A.3 - dec 1 extra st in A.2 and A.3 on both front and back piece so that section with diagonal stripes becomes smaller.
Dec 1 st in A.2 by working the last 2 sts before dec the same way as dec, i.e. K 2 tog.
Dec 1 st in A.3 by working the next 2 sts after dec the same way as dec, i.e. slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 4 sts dec in total).
To avoid reducing no of sts, inc in addition on same row as dec in A.2/A.3. Inc 1 st outside A.1 towards stockinette st section in each side on both front and back piece - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc in total).
No of sts on body will thus not vary (excl inc in the sides).
Section in garter st mid front and mid back becomes smaller and stockinette st section in each side becomes bigger.
Repeat this dec and inc every 4-4-5-5-5-5 cm / 1½”-1½”-2”-2”-2”-2”, 4 more times (= 5 dec in total in pattern in A.2/A.3 and 5 inc in stockinette st section).

ARMHOLES:
When piece measures 26-28-28-29-30-31 cm / 10¼”-11”-11”-11 3/8”-11¾”-12¼” (inc and dec should now be done), work next row as follows from WS:
Work 57-61-65-69-74-80 sts on left front piece (i.e. 5 band sts in garter st, A.2 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts, A.1 (= 6 sts) and 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st), bind off 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for armhole, work 104-112-120-128-138-150 sts on back piece (i.e. 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts) A.2 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts, A.3 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts. A.1 (= 6 sts) and 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st), bind off 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for armhole and work the last 57-61-65-69-74-80 sts on right front piece (i.e. 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.3 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts and 5 band sts in garter st).
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 44-46-46-48-50-52 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima.
K 1 round, P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round (= 2 ridges in garter st).
Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-14-12-11-10-9 cm / 6”-5½”-4¾”-4 3/8”-4”-3½”, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st each side of marker).
Repeat inc every other round 30-31-32-33-33-34 more times (= 31-32-33-34-34-35 inc) = 106-110-112-116-118-122 sts on needle.
On next round (after last inc - piece measures approx. 39-39-38-38-37-37 cm / 15 ¼”-15 ¼”-15”-15”-14½”-14½”), bind off the middle 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts under sleeve (i.e. bind off 6-6-6-7-7-7 sts on each side of marker) = 94-98-100-102-104-108 sts remain on needle.
Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 406-430-450-470-494-526 sts on needle.
Insert 1 marker in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 markers) and move markers upwards when working.
Then work in stockinette st and pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME also working A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves (markers should be in the middle of A.1).

RAGLAN:
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row after body and sleeves have been placed tog on to same circular needle (= RS), beg dec for raglan – READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec).
Repeat dec every other row (i.e. every row from RS) 30-30-32-34-35-36 more times (= 31-31-33-35-36-37 times in total) and then every row (both from RS and from WS) 8-10-9-8-8-9 times in total.

DEC AND INC IN PATTERN FRONT AND BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when 2-3-4-0-1-2 cm / 3/4”-1 1/8”-1½”-0-3/8”-3/4” have been worked after body and sleeve were put on to same circular needle, dec 1 extra st in A.2/A.3 as before and inc 1 st outside A.1 towards stockinette st section in each side front and back as before = 4 sts dec and 4 sts inc on row.
Repeat this dec/inc every other row (i.e. on every row from RS) 33-33-33-39-39-39 times in total (these dec/inc are done in addition to raglan but does not affect no of sts).

ADJUSTING DIAGONAL LINES ON BACK PIECE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’-21¼’’-22’’ (measured along the shortest side on garment), dec and inc in A.2/A.3 on back piece every 8th row instead every 4th row (this only applies to the ordinary dec/inc in diagram (not the extra dec/inc every other row to make the middle section smaller).
When this is done, the diagonal lines mid back will even out and make the neck line at the back straight.
Repeat this dec/inc every 8th row 2 more times, then work pattern in A.2/A.3 without the ordinary inc and dec (continue dec to make the mid section smaller as before).

NECK EDGE:
After last dec for raglan there are 94-102-114-126-142-158 sts on needle and last buttonhole should be as close to neck edge as possible. Work 1 row pattern from WS as before. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-18-24-26-32-38 sts evenly (do not dec over band sts) = 80-84-90-100-110-120 sts. K 3 rows (1st row = WS) and then loosely bind off with K from RS.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Sew on buttons.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = work 2 sts in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (7)

country flag Sylvie wrote:

Bonjours les augmentations son faite après les 5 mailles du début ou avant A 1 merci

28.12.2018 - 08:21

DROPS Design answered:

Chère Sylvie, 4 mailles sont augmentées selon les diagrammes A.2 et A.3, au debut de A.2 et a la fin de A.3. 4 mailles supplémentaires (pour que le nombre de mailles ne change pas) sont augmentées entre A.1 et le jersey, côté jersey (au debut et a la fin de la partie jersey), de chaque côté sur les devants et le dos. Bon tricot!

28.12.2018 - 10:50

country flag Briggs wrote:

Im Abschnitt AB- UND AUFNAHME IM MUSTER, VORDER- UND RÜCKENTEIL steht .. "wird wie vorher 1 zusätzliche M in A.2/A.3 abgenommen" und zwar in jeder Hinreihe. Die Abn. in A.2/A.3 wurden aber zuvor in der Rückreihe gemacht. Wenn ich die M in der Hinreihe abn., was mache ich dann, wenn ich bei A2 und A3 die regulären Ab- und Zun. im Muster habe?

25.09.2018 - 18:16

country flag Briggs wrote:

Nach Beginn des Raglans: wie viele M werden re zwischen A1 und dem Ärmel gestrickt? Ich stricke die kleinste Größe, d.h. 9 M re, aber 3 M werden davon für das neue A1-Muster genommen. Dann muss ich für den Raglan mind. 2x abnehmen, bevor ich nach 2cm erst zu dem Abschnitt AB- UND AUFNAHME IM MUSTER, VORDER- UND RÜCKENTEIL komme. Dann bleiben höchstens noch 4 M übrig. Auf dem Foto sieht es nach mehr aus

25.09.2018 - 18:05

country flag Briggs wrote:

Ich bin kein Spammer und habe auch noch nie eine Frage bei Ihnen gestellt!!

25.09.2018 - 17:57

country flag Kim wrote:

This pattern fine UNTIL sleeves are joined. The raglan decrease instructions DO NOT look like the picture!

02.02.2017 - 02:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Kim, make sure to not forget dec and inc in pattern front and back, ie dec 1 st in A.2/A.3 and inc 1 st outside A.1 to inc number of sts worked in stocking st. So that you will inc 33-39 sts in stocking st between both A.1 and dec 30-36 sts (see size) for raglan. Happy knitting!

02.02.2017 - 10:26

country flag Jette Bjærge wrote:

Jeg er meget i tvivl mht til målene. Skal skabelonen betyde at ved 58 cm i brystmål, så er målet omkring brystet 116 cm hele vejen rundt. Jeg er normalt en str 40 men det ser ud som om jeg kan "krybe" i en small :-)

12.02.2014 - 11:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Jette. Maalene stemmer, modellen skal ogsaa falde meget löst, som du ogsaa kan se paa billedet. God fornöjelse med den

12.02.2014 - 13:05

country flag Patricia wrote:

Dank voor de uitleg van deze vest was een van mijn favoriten

26.09.2013 - 12:44