DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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Greenland

Knitted DROPS jumper with textured pattern, wide sleeves and deep raglan in ”Lima”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS 150-13
DROPS design: Pattern no li-032
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 116-124-132-142-152-164 cm / 46”-49”-52”-56”-60”-64½”
Full length: 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm / 22¾’’-23 5/8’’-24 3/8’’-25¼’’-26’’-26¾’’


Materials:
DROPS LIMA from Garnstudio
650-750-800-850-950-1050 g color no 9010, light gray

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16’’ and 32’’) SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 20 sts x 25 rows pattern (A.1 + A.2/A.3 - measured horizontally) = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.
And 19 sts x 25 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32’’) SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - for edges in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Lima
DROPS Lima
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 42.90$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needles/double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*. 1 ridge = 2 rounds.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1 to A.3 – choose diagram for correct size.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next round K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP (applies to raglan):
Dec for raglan on each side of A.1 in every transition between sleeves and body.
Dec as follows before A.1: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after A.1: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle.
Cast on 220-236-252-272-292-316 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm / US 8, insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 110-118-126-136-146-158 sts (= the sides).
Work next round as follows: Work 7-11-15-6-11-17 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.3 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts, A.1 (= 6 sts), 14-22-30-12-22-34 sts in stockinette st (marker in the side is in the middle of these sts), A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.3 (= 42-42-42-56-56-56 sts), A.1 (= 6 sts) and work the last 7-11-15-6-11-17 sts in stockinette st. Continue pattern like this.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE AND READ THE REST OF BODY BEFORE CONTINUING!

INC IN THE SIDES:
When piece measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm / 2 3/8’’-2 3/8’’-2 3/8’’-2¾’’-2¾’’-2¾’’, inc 1 st on each side of both markers (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm / 3”-3”-3”-3½”-3½”-3½” 2 more times = 232-248-264-284-304-328 sts.

DEC AND INC IN PATTERN FRONT AND BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾’’-2¾’’-2¾’’-3 1/8’’- 3 1/8’’- 3 1/8’’ – make sure that next round is with inc and dec in A.2/A.3 - dec 1 extra st in A.2 and A.3 on both front and back piece so that section with diagonal stripes becomes smaller. Dec 1 st in A.2 by working the last 2 sts before dec the same way as dec, i.e. K 2 tog. Dec 1 st in A.3 by working the next 2 sts after dec the same way as dec, i.e. slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 4 sts dec in total).
To avoid reducing no of sts, inc in addition on same round as dec in A.2/A.3. Inc 1 st outside A.1 towards stockinette st section in each side on both front and back piece - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc in total).
No of sts on body will thus not vary (excl inc in the sides). Section in garter st mid front and mid back becomes smaller and stockinette st section in each side becomes bigger.
Repeat this dec and inc every 4-4-5-5-5-5 cm / 1½”-1½”-2”-2”-2”-2” 4 more times (= 5 dec in total in pattern in A.2/A.3 and 5 inc in stockinette st section).

ARMHOLES:
When piece measures 26-28-28-29-30-31 cm / 10¼”-11”-11”-11 3/8”-11¾”-12¼” (inc and dec should now be done), work next round as follows: bind off 6-6-6-7-7-7 sts for armhole, work 104-112-120-128-138-150 sts on front piece (i.e. 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st, A.1 (= 6 sts), A.2 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts, A.3 over the next 37-37-37-51-51-51 sts, A.1 (= 6 sts) and 9-13-17-7-12-18 sts in stockinette st), bind off 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts for armhole, work 104-112-120-128-138-150 sts on back piece (the same way as on front piece) and bind off the last 6-6-6-7-7-7 sts for armhole.
Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Work in the round on double pointed needles, switch to circular needle when needed.
Cast on 44-46-46-48-50-52 sts on double pointed needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Lima. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Insert 1 marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve).
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 and work in stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-14-12-11-10-9 cm / 6”-5½”-4¾”-4 3/8”-4”-3½”, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 1 st each side of marker).
Repeat inc every other round 30-31-32-33-33-34 more times (= 31-32-33-34-34-35 inc) = 106-110-112-116-118-122 sts on needle. On next round (after last inc - piece measures approx. 39-39-38-38-37-37 cm / 15¼”-15¼”-15”-15”-14½”-14½”), bind off the middle 12-12-12-14-14-14 sts under sleeve (i.e. bind off 6-6-6-7-7-7 sts on each side of marker) = 94-98-100-102-104-108 sts remain on needle.
Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off (without working them first) = 396-420-440-460-484-516 sts on needle. Insert 1 marker in every transition between body and sleeves (= 4 markers) and move markers upwards when working.
Then work in stockinette st and pattern as before while AT THE SAME TIME also working A.1 in every transition between body and sleeves (markers should be in the middle of A.1).

RAGLAN:
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round after body and sleeves have been placed tog on to same circular needle, beg dec for raglan – READ DECREASE TIP (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec on every other round 30-30-32-34-35-36 more times (31-31-33-35-36-37 times in total) and then on every round a total of 8-10-9-8-8-9 times.

DEC AND INC IN PATTERN FRONT AND BACK:
AT THE SAME TIME when 2-3-4-0-1-2 cm / ¾”-1 1/8”-1½”-0-3/8”-3/4” have been worked after body and sleeve were put on to same circular needle, dec 1 extra st in A.2/A.3 as before and inc 1 st outside A.1 towards stockinette st section in each side front and back as before = 4 sts dec and 4 sts inc on round. Repeat this dec/inc every other round 33-33-33-39-39-39 times in total (these dec/inc are done in addition to raglan but does not affect no of sts).

ADJUSTING DIAGONAL LINES ON BACK PIECE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures approx. 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm / 18’’-19’’-19¾’’-20½’’-21¼’’-22’’ (measured along the shortest side on garment), dec and inc in A.2/A.3 on back piece every 8th round instead every 4th round (this only applies to the ordinary dec/inc in diagram (not the extra dec/inc every other round to make the middle section smaller). When this is done, the diagonal lines mid back will even out and make the neck line mid back straight.
Repeat this dec/inc every 8th round 2 more times, then work pattern in A.2/A.3 without the ordinary inc and dec (continue dec/inc to make the mid section smaller as before).

NECK EDGE:
After last dec for raglan there are 84-92-104-116-132-148 sts on needle. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 14-18-24-26-32-38 sts evenly = 70-74-80-90-100-110 sts on needle. P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round, then loosely bind off with K.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = work 2 sts in front and back loop of same st (= 1 st inc)
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K 2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
symbols = K 3, pass first st worked over the other 2 so that this st is around the last 2 sts on right needle (= 1 st dec)
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (34)

country flag José Van Baalen wrote:

Moet ik het telpatroon van links naar rechts of van rechts naar links lezen?

23.01.2021 - 12:32

DROPS Design answered:

Dag José,

Nee, je leest het telpatroon van rechts naar links en van onder naar boven. Alle naalden staan aangegeven in het telpatroon. Bij veel gestelde vragen kun je ook info vinden over hoe je telpatronen leest. zie hier.

24.01.2021 - 11:26

country flag Dorthe Larsen wrote:

Felterne i diagrammet er blanke. Jeg kan ikke se hvilke tegn der høre til sætningerne

19.09.2019 - 15:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Dorthe. Høres ut om din browser ikke har lastet inn all informasjon som er på siden. Last inn siden på nytt, evnt trykk på F5. mvh DROPS design

23.09.2019 - 13:54

country flag Britt wrote:

Voor maat M ben ik bezig en heb het idee dat ik er te weinig in dat tussenstuk over houd. Na 3 cm ga je pas weer steken uit a2 en a3 halen en verplaatsen naar het tussenstuk van tricot

07.02.2018 - 20:55

country flag Britt wrote:

Hoeveel steken moet je behouden tussen A1 en A1 als je bezig bent met de raglan? Dus A1 tricot voor x aantal steken weer A1 dan A2 A3 A1 tricot voor x aantal steken weer A1 daarna mouw tricot. Hoeveel steken moet de x dan blijven elke naald?

06.02.2018 - 21:32

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Britt, Dat is per maat verschillend. Als de maat bekend is, is het mogelijk om dat uit te tekenen en uit te rekenen? Denk je dat je daar te weinig of te veel steken hebt?

07.02.2018 - 20:46

country flag Anne-Gro Øinæs wrote:

Hei! Jeg strikker small størrelse

22.04.2015 - 16:07

country flag Anne-Gro Øinæs wrote:

Når jeg setter sammen ermer og bol og strikker slik oppskriften sier skjer jo det at raglanfellingen kommer helt inntil A2 feltet i og med at det står at fellingen i A2 skal starte først etter 2cm. Hva gjør jeg feil?

17.04.2015 - 16:18

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anne-Gro. Kan du sige hvilken störrelse du laver, saa kan jeg fölge med og se paa opskriften. Tak :-)

22.04.2015 - 15:44

country flag Valérie wrote:

Un très beau pull.... mais des explications confuses et très difficiles à suivre. un ratage complet! Ce n'est pourtant pas le premier modèle complexe que je fais mais le premier sur Drops. Je suis extrêmement déçue. Je vais le recommencer pour ne pas rester sur un échec... Mais je n'aurais pas le temps avant cet été. Quelle déception!

09.02.2015 - 21:39

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Valérie, pour toute aide à la réalisation d'un modèle, rappelez-vous que vous pouvez demander conseil à votre magasin ou sur le forum DROPS. Bon tricot!

10.02.2015 - 08:19

country flag Rebekka wrote:

Sadly, this pattern doesn't make sense, started with it 3 times and tried everything. the mistake must be within patten A1 i think. Doing the second line of the pattern you lose all in all 4 stitches. you get them back 2 lines later, but until then you don't have those 4 stitches so you can't keep the pattern up?! the pattern looks so wrong if you do it just the way it's written here. would be lovely if you'd help me, i'm pretty frustrated now since i have the wool and everything for it.

22.10.2014 - 15:04

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rebekka, A.1 is worked over 6 sts (row 1), then alternately 2 rows over 7 sts and 2 rows over 6 sts. But your number of sts in other diagrams should keep constant. Do not hesitate to place markers before/after each A.1 to be sure your number of sts is correct. Your DROPS store can bring you any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

22.10.2014 - 15:36

country flag Kirsten Larsen wrote:

Jeg kan ikke forstå at måltallene for sweateren er så store. Hvordan hænger det sammen at for eks. hoftevidden er så stor, at når jeg fx er 115 cm og en størrelse x-large skal have en lille størrelse i dette mønster

07.09.2014 - 19:57

country flag Sheri Vucci wrote:

I am confused about working section A1 without working into A2 and not having enough stitches left to complete the entire pattern. could you help explain this to me?

22.05.2014 - 04:30

DROPS Design answered:

Hello Cheri! Diagrams A.2 and A.3 just show you that you have to increase 1 st both sides of the middle part and next to diagram A.1 and decrease middle of front and back piece. In case you are already near neckline and dont have anymore stitches in middle part for A.2 and A.3, than may-be you decreased to much or forgot to increase.

22.05.2014 - 11:20