DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 149-43
DROPS design: Pattern no ne-127
Yarn group C
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HAT:
Size: S/M – L/XL
Head circumference: approx. 54/56 - 56/58 cm / 21"/22" - 22"/23"
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
50-50 g color no 2923, goldenrod
50-50 g color no 0501, gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') size 5 mm / US 8 – or size needed to get 13 sts in English rib = width 10 cm / 4'' with a light pull.


NECK WARMER:
Circumference: approx. 132-142 cm / 52"-55 3/4"
Height: approx. 28-33 cm / 11"-13"
Materials:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
200-200 g color no 2923, goldenrod
200-200 g color no 0501, gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') size 6 mm / US 10 – or size needed to get 12 sts in English rib = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.30 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 33.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS:
ROW 1 (= WS): Worked with color 0501, gray
1 st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 st in garter st. Turn piece.

ROW 2 (= RS): Worked with color 0501, gray
1 st in garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 yo and 2 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st, 1 st in garter st.
Move sts back on circular needle to work from same side one more time and switch color (read KNITTING TIP 1 and 2).

ROW 3 (= RS): Worked with color 2923, goldenrod
1 st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, P tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 st in garter st. Turn piece.

ROW 4 (= WS): Worked with color 0501, gray
1 st in garter st, * P tog YO and slipped st, 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P *, repeat from *-* until 1 yo and 2 sts remain, P tog YO and slipped st, 1 st in garter st.
Move sts back on circular needle to work from same side one more time and switch color.

ROW 5 (= WS): Worked with color 2923, goldenrod
1 st in garter st, * 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, K tog YO and slipped st *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with 1 YO, slip 1 st as if to P, 1 st in garter st. Turn piece.

Repeat rows 2-5.

KNITTING TIP 1:
No of sts is divisible with uneven number when English rib is worked. To make an English rib in stripes work back and forth on a circular needle as follows: Work 1st and 2nd row as explained below. Move all sts on circular needle to the other end of circular needle so that next row can be worked with a new color from same side as 2nd row. Then turn piece and work the next 2 rows from the other side the same way as 2nd and 3rd row. That means that 1 row is worked with every color from same side before turning the piece.

KNITTING TIP 2:
If you are in doubt, see what color the previous row was worked with on the color of edge st.
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HAT:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 72-81 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with gray. K 1 row.
Work next row as follows from RS: 1 edge st in GARTER ST - see explanation above -, * P 1, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, finish with P 1 and 1 edge st in GARTER ST = 49-55 sts. Then work ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 23-24 cm / 9"-9½" – adjust to finish after 5th row and work next row in gray as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st and 1 edge st in garter st. Turn and continue with rib K 1/P 1 with 1 edge st in garter st in each side with gray until rib measures approx. 3 cm / 1''.
Work 4 rows in stockinette st - AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from RS work sts tog 2 by 2, repeat on 4th row = 13-14 sts.
Piece measures approx. 27-28 cm / 10½"-11".
Tighten tog the last sts at the top and sew hat tog mid back, garter st against garter st.
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NECK WARMER:
Loosely cast on 161-173 sts on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with gray and work back and forth on needle.
Work ENGLISH RIB IN TWO COLORS - see explanation above.
When piece measures approx. 27-32 cm / 10½"-12½" - adjust to finish after 5th row.
Turn piece and work next row in gray as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, * K tog YO and slipped st, P 1 *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, K tog YO and slipped st and 1 edge st in garter st. On next row bind off with K over K and P over P.
Cut the yarn and sew neck warmer tog with small stitches, sew in outer loops of edge sts and fasten the yarn.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 13.02.2014
HAT: ...Work 4 rows in stockinette st - AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row from RS work sts tog 2 by 2, repeat on 4th row = 13-14 sts.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (57)

country flag Yvonne wrote:

Can this be knit in the round ie no seaming to be done and how to do this? I eliminated the selvedge garter stitches but this resulted in 2 knit columns next to each other where the seam would be so there was a break in the brioche pattern. Thanks

30.10.2023 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yvonne, yes you can, then you have to remove the edge stitches from the number of sts to cast on and work the English rib in the round - see video. Happy knitting!

30.10.2023 - 17:50

country flag Anna wrote:

A 149/43 mintaleírás hibás. (4.sor, 5.sor) A helyes minta a 151/24 leírásnál található.

04.01.2022 - 18:48

country flag Arianna Lobascio wrote:

Salve, una domanda, quanto tempo serve all'incirca per realizzare lo scalda collo?

29.05.2020 - 18:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Arianna. Il tempo necessario per un lavoro è sempre molto soggettivo. Dipende, tra altri motivi, dal progetto stesso, dal motivo, dalla sua esperienza nel lavoro a maglia e dalla sua velocità nella lavorazione. Buon lavoro!

30.05.2020 - 18:42

country flag Genevieve Horwood wrote:

I was looking for a clarification. Nor the neck warmer or the hat are worked in the round, correct ? i.e. the hat is stitched lengthwise at the end and the neck warmer is stitched width-wise? Thank you

09.11.2019 - 16:34

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Genevieve, both the neck warmer and the hat is knited back and forth, from the bottom up and the edges sewn together at the end. Happy Knitting!

10.11.2019 - 11:37

country flag Antje wrote:

Hallo, würde das Muster gern als Stulpen mit einem Nadelspiel stricken. Finde aber keine Anleitung in der das Muster so erscheint wie hier. Haben Sie eine Idee? LG Antje

17.02.2019 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Antje, wir können leider nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder Anfrage anpassen, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mit Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, gerne helfen sie Ihnen weiter. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.02.2019 - 10:03

country flag Linda wrote:

Hallo, ich finde das Set sehr schön, würde es aber sehr gerne mal mit zwei rechts, zwei links - zweifarbig stricken. Leider finde ich dazu keine Anleitung und auch kein Video hier gefunden. Würde mich sehr freuen, wenn sie es mir erklären könnten. Macht weiter so immer tolle Anleitungen, Garne und Hilfestellung. Vielen Dank

13.01.2019 - 19:57

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Linda, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individuelle Anfrage anpassen, nehmen Sie bitte Kontakt mir Ihrem DROPS Laden auf, dort bekommen Sie weitere Hilfe - auch telefonisch oder per E-Mail. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.01.2019 - 12:12

country flag Mathilda wrote:

De halswarmer, het vraagt om 6mm naald, maar dat maakt het rommelig . Brei nu op naald 4,5 veel mooier.

05.12.2018 - 23:50

country flag Andrea wrote:

Habe mir den Kragen und die Mütze in den Farben Camel/ Himbeere gestrickt und bin total begeistert. Sowohl vom Modell wie von der Qualität des Garns. Sooo schön warm und kuschelig und es ist unique. Danke Drops

10.01.2018 - 11:10

country flag Sidsel wrote:

Jeg kan ikke få den til at passe med 72 masker.. skal det ikke være et ulige antal masker? Den passer med 81 masker

18.11.2017 - 22:55

DROPS Design answered:

Jo når du starter med patent skal du have taget ind til 49-55 m. God fornøjelse!

22.11.2017 - 14:44

country flag Johanna Haggstrom wrote:

Thanks for the help!!

26.10.2015 - 12:12