DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 24-48
DROPS design: Pattern no w-039-bn
Yarn group C
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Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
50 g color no 26, dark beige
50 g color no 17, off white
50 g color no 46, rust
50 g color no 35, vanilla
50 g color no 45, dusty orange
Some left-over yarn color no 37, rusty red
Some left-over yarn color no 14, strong yellow
Some left-over yarn color no 12, red

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 22 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 5.50$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle. Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, work ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc and 1st sc on round, move the marker upwards when working.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by working 2 sts in next sc.

CROCHET SC TOG:
Crochet 2 sc tog into 1 sc as follows: Insert hook in sc and pull yarn through, insert hook in next sc and pull yarn through, make 1 YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

REVERS CROCHET:
Work as sc but backwards. I.e. crochet around from left to right
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BUN:
Worked in the round in a circle. Ch 19 with off white. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch on each side of ch-row = 36 sc (18 sc on each side). Then work in the round. Insert 1 marker in each side, the first before first sc, the second after 18 sc.
When piece measures 23 cm / 9'', AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st each side of every marker (= 4 inc). Repeat inc every round, 3 more times = 52 sts.
Fasten off.

Work the same way with dark beige but after 4 rounds with inc work 3 rounds without inc. Place the two parts tog, fill with some poly stuffing and work them tog with 1 strand beige. Work 1 sc through sc on both layers.
Make another half the same way, then work the two halves tog in the middle 8 sc on one long side, work with beige through both layers with 1 sl st in every sc.

HOT DOG:
Worked in the round in a circle with rust. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above - on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: Inc 4 sc evenly - READ INCREASE TIP = 16 sc.
Work 1 sc in every sc until piece measures approx. 17 cm / 6 3/4'', dec 4 sts evenly - READ CROCHET SC TOG = 12 sc. Fill the hot dog with some poly stuffing. Work all sc tog 2 by 2.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the last sc, tighten tog and fasten.

KETCHUP AND MUSTARD:
Ch 60 with rusty red, fasten off. Ch 60 with strong yellow, fasten off.
Fasten them on the hot dog – see picture.

FRENCH FRIES:
Worked in the round in a circle with vanilla on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the magic circle with vanilla - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
Work 1 sc in every sc until fry measures approx. 5 to 10 cm / 2"-4".
Cut the yarn, tighten tog at the top and fasten.

BASKET:
Work in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with dusty orange. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the magic circle - READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: Work * 1 sc in each of the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 30 sc.
ROUND 6-16: Work 1 sc in every sc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 round with REVERSE CROCHET - see explanation above - and finish with 1 sl st in first st.

TOMATO KETCHUP:
Work in the round in a circle on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with red. Start by making a MAGIC CIRCLE - read explanation above.
Work as ROUND 1-3 for BASKET.
Ch 35-40, cut the yarn and fasten the end.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (9)

country flag Helga Huber wrote:

Would crochet the bread differently... In one piece..

30.01.2021 - 14:17

Helle wrote:

Haha "strikke maden" :D

12.12.2018 - 19:39

country flag Nicole wrote:

Liebes Drops-Team, ich scheiter am Brot. Die LMs + die jeweilige Reihe an den LMs geht. Was kommt dann? 1. Rd 36 FM? 2. Rd 16 FM, 2 dFM in die 17 und 18 M und wieder 16 FM und 2 dFM in die 35 und 36 = 40 M 3. Rd 20 FM, 2 dFM in die 19 und 20 M und wieder 20 FM und 2 dFM in die 39 und 40 = 44 M? 4. Rd 22 FM, 2 dFM in die 21 und 22 M und wieder 22 FM und 2 dFM in die 43 und 44 = 48 M? 5. Rd 24 FM, 2 dFM in die 23 und 24 M und wieder 24 FM und 2 dFM in die 47 und 48 = 52 M? Lieben Dank

05.06.2018 - 12:12

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Nicole, die 1. Markierung ist vor dem 1. fM eingesetzt, dh: 1. Markierung (= Anfang der Runde), 2 fM, bis 1 fM vor 2. Markierung häkeln, 2 fM in das nächste fM, Markierung, 2 fM in die nächste fM, bis 1 M vor der Ende häkeln und 2 fM in die letzte fM = 4 Zunahmen . So weiter häkeln, dh 2 fM nach dem 1. Markierung, bis 1 M vor der 2. Markierung häkeln, 2 fM in die nächste fM, (Markierung), 2 fM in die nächste fM, bis 1 M vor Ende häkeln, und 2 fM in die letzte fM. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

05.06.2018 - 13:56

Søren wrote:

Haha det udtryk har jeg godt nok aldrig hørt før :D

22.02.2018 - 09:28

Morten wrote:

Har hørt min bedstemor bruge udtrykket et par gange :D

13.11.2017 - 14:40

Benjamin wrote:

"Hvis bare man kunne strikke maden" er et gammelt udtryk man brugte i 1800-tallet.

14.09.2017 - 11:13

NetBoligAdvokat wrote:

Ja bare man kunne strikke maden nogengange :-) Hvad mener du med det?

11.09.2016 - 10:15

country flag Casper wrote:

Ja bare man kunne strikke maden nogengange :-)

11.11.2015 - 14:25

country flag Leny Van Well wrote:

Ik kom er met het broodje haken niet uit.Ben begonnen in de rondte in een cirkel, heb daarna aan beide kanten 18 vasten gedaan.Maar je moet dan toch al gelijk met meerderen beginnen anders heb je een lapje van 23 cm in de hoogte wat niet op een broodje lijkt.

03.09.2013 - 22:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Leny. Er was een foutje binnengeslopen in dit patroon ;-) Je moet niet doorhaken tot 23 cm, maar meteen beginnen met meerderen. Ik heb het patroon aangepast. Bedankt voor het melden!

04.09.2013 - 10:39